Great simple repair. But full of knowledge and simple pointers. thumbs up and keep the vids coming doctor

I noticed you pressed the "thumb up" even before watching the vid... :-) So thank you the confidence you placed in me! ;-)

You are welcome!

You are welcome! Thank you for your nice comment and happy new year for you! :-)

Happy new year!

Very good question! I actually wanted to try to convert a spare road blasters cartridge once to something else but unfortunately it is not that easy because of a certain custom chip that can be found on every system 1 cartridge board. Look for a small, socketed 20-pin DIP on the board next to the program roms. The number on the chip will be 137412-1xx. The so called "slapstic" was a security chip made by Atari, which was used for bank switching and security in several coin-operated video games from 1984 through 1990. They were designed to prevent operators from burning new EPROMs and "upgrading" their PCBs to a new game without buying the necessary kits from Atari. For example, the five System 1 games each used a different slapstic, so that you couldn't take, say, a Marble Madness machine, burn new EPROMs, and convert it into an Indiana Jones.That said, however, there are slapstics that appear to be functionally identical, despite the fact that they have different part numbers: 137412-103 (Marble Madness) appears to be functionally identical to 137412-110 (Road Blasters & APB). But I do not know if anyone ever managed to make a conversion between the two.

doktorzett, I know about the Slapstiks, I have seen them reproduced. But never found a thread about conversions (with documentation). Has the Indiana Jones PCB the same layout (like Roadrunner)?

It seems to be slightly different. Road Runner and Road Blasters on the other hand look pretty much the same. Check here: forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=395015

You mean the adapter cable that hooks up the system 1 to the switching psu? Yes, did that myself - pinouts are available in the system 1 documentation and the "standard arcade voltages" are sufficient.

Cool! I'll have to try that myself. Just need the right molex...

Yep. If I remember it right I used black for ground, red for +5V, yellow for +12V and white for -5v. And I think the system 1 actually wants -12V according to the manual but it worked fine with the usual -5V that you find on standart arcade switchers.