Nice and calm, the perfect teacher

+Valerie Lyman Thanks good luck with your project.

+Valerie Lyman Awesome thanks for watching

Thanks check out my channel

Bottom out guy it means to the last thread ,bolt can be tighten with regular wrench or ratchet to the end thread

It can.

If you wanna do it right anyway.

Noooo don't ever use a hammer lol hammer and crank do not ever go together

Jonathan Lawson I used a puller and got it on, finally, Thanks

You can pick one up at your autozone... or god forbid O’Riles. Good luck out there

DORMAN PRT# 594-006

The shaft on the crank is keyed. Can't mess it up.

You must bow to your SINSAY

Thought about using a 3/8" impact but don't want to potentially twist the crank

Lined with grove in harmonic balancer

Yes

cant find the tool you used in the video, can u help steer me in the right direction?

@@dikrankrikorian2802 I believe it's a Proform Harmonic Balancer Installation Tool that fits small block and big block Chevy crankshafts, part #66515.

Did you ever find an answer - I have the same question...

Definitely not tty. It's a pressed fit.

Boy batter

because i don't have a impact socket

Jeff Fuehr don't know if you've figured it out yet but if you have a manual transmission you can put it in 5th gear I believe and the crank won't turn. For automatic transmission just use a pry bar or good sized wrench and wedge it through the harmonic balancer. There's many different methods to keep it from spinning.

Use a pipe wrench to hold pulley laid it against a jack to be firm and torque down or use pry bar and take of starter motor and pry flywheel and have someone torque it down

An old race car engine builder taught me.. if you take out one of the spark plugs and basically feed a length of rope through the spark plug hole and obviously leave enough hanging out so it doesn't completely fall into the cylinder.. as you turn the motor over by hand the rope will prevent the Piston from making a full stroke and then you can torque down the nut.. he always used nylon rope because it's strong it doesn't fray as easily and it doesn't leave behind any material or scratch pistons or cylinder walls...

Its too late now. But i took out one of the injectors and stuffed rope in it. Worked like a charm

Daniel Alvarez Jr. You may have stripped the threads in your crank if it gets to around 0 lash and then spins easily again or the balancer could be going on crooked

Or the crank timing gear isn't pressed in all the way

Brandon Fulton I could not find any videos on this. I have the same non threaded crank. I finally called the engine shop that rebuild my engine for a professional answer to this. His answer, “You bang it on.” (Assuming large socket, dead blow hammer and all) And it should go on dry. Well there you have it. He said “Don’t feel bad, you’re not the first one who asked.” - I posted here because Robert Dana’s videos are the very well presented. - David Jones - Thank you for posting them.

Thanks

Is it an internal or external balance crankshaft?

@@henrysmith8012 external bought a new balancer since I left this comment doing the rear main seal in a few weeks .. think we finally got the oil pan to stop leaking .. learned that you have to score the surface of any shiny metal 🤓

Driveshaft out of balance? Bent wheel? Lumpy tire? Unbalanced wheel? Bad wheel bearings? Bad engine mounts? Bad trans mount? Bad suspension bushings? Bad ignition? Loose battery? Vacuum leak? Weak fuel pump? Plugged fuel filter? Intake/vacuum leaks? Misfire? Heatsoaked ignition ? Vaporlocked fuel? Leaky fuel line? Leaky fuel tank ? Harmonic balancer separating? Flexplate weight fell off? Etc...

I'm in the same boat with my 283 on my '63 Impala. Did you ever find an answer from other sources?

Brian Clem Brian Clem Pete’s Garage “great channel” told me don’t thread anything that is not threaded. That was his opinion whom I have a tremendous respect for, But there is a guy with a 327 , Classic Car Overhaul that used a tool to that guides the bit and then the tap nicely threaded 7/16 to receive the standard bolt that threaded units have. I found a seller on the web that sells the tool and the W size bit and tap to do the project with very little hassle. I’m thinking of doing it except if spend the money on the tool and then I go to the machine shop and the block needs too much work and overbudget it’s just an added expense wasted. If I do it after machining and I screw it up well pretty much a waste of the work I paid for if I ruin the crank (unlikely but you never know). What is the advantage of the thread? Extra secure for high performance and or being able to turn the motor by hand when working on it and building it versus having to turn by a pulley bolt cam sprocket bolt or slipping some DIY part or socket over the crank with a slot for the woodruff key?

@@lildeena1 , is there a way I can slip a picture of my situation to you? I believe I'm in the same boat. Crank not threaded. A real head scratcher at this point. The engine is in the rig currently. Thanks a bunch for considering ~ and posting here. My email is bloobeem@gmail.com - maybe just fly me a blank. Awesome!

Did you get an answer to your question?

hoolu2 advance auto parts sells a part online that the is called a Proform Crank Turning Nut. It is good but doesn’t have a locking mechanism like a regular socket does, so that may be inconvenient if you keep the engine in the vehicle. KZfaqr Eric the car guy is building a sbc 383 or 350 and he has a fancier version that he uses that has a lock to keep it from coming off your ratchet. To take off my balancer I used a balancer puller from harbor freight. To pull the shaft timing gear I used a 3 arm puller. To put both the balancer and the new gear on I used a ballpin hammer and a thick 3/4 Brass Drift I bought from Harry J Epstein co. If you have anymore questions let me know. I kept my original woodruff keys in also. There are a few issues you come up with with these older motors since people don’t seem to like building them there isn’t as much info the older 283 265s and small journal 327s. If your very new to this and rebuilding an engine my advice to you you learn everything you can about deck height and how far your pistons are gonna be in the hole before you put anything together and buy parts. Don’t rely on your machine shop especially if they aren’t performance minded. you need to make sure all you measurements.

Just hit it with an impact.

@John Alarcon kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mrCWnqabmKy7cqc.html

I believe it's a Proform Harmonic Balancer Installation Tool that fits small block and big block Chevy crankshafts, part #66515.

It's just as easy bud there's no difference you have to remove the pulleys and belt system when it's in the car

I could be wrong, but I think since it is a press fit and not held on with a bolt. Torquing it wont make a difference. You just get it on there till it's all the way on.

@@thatmarred_mustang that was my question thank you

charles philippe I guess there is a layer of rubber inside the harmonic balancer, like the balancer is two layers with a ring of rubber between them that you can see. Examine the rubber to see if it's cracked or stiff and falling apart. If so, then you need a new balancer

Yeah or check if it wobbles while the car is on.

Why did he have that, "I stripped those threads" look on his face? Haha

I caught that too..a dowel pin is round while a key way is square. Perhaps he confused the pin of a camshaft vs. the key way on a crankshaft...

Because the tool is designed for Chevy small & big block engines; not Dodge

@@topcat5777 I was letting all the caravan owners know because the title doesn't say small block Chevy. He says it during his presentation.