Great thought, I'll file this away in my think holder.

no leave 2 of the top bolts loosened halfway then use a 1" putty knife/spatula to pry the bottom till the lube oil drains into the pan. used lube oil smells almost as bad as sewage. if you do it from the top? most likely you're getting lube oil on your work area and you as well as in your pan.

No need for all that, a thin blade from practically anything will work without bending the cover. Takes more time to remove but easily doable.

TheTexasCoder awesome thank you, I will try and have edited soon, this was realtime when posted

hello thanks for stopping by, hope you enjoy part 2

sure was, thank you

Thank you Steve. someone tried hard on this one to say the least, do what we can and see how it goes right.

Apollyon εжз it happens, less likely on these but yes, part two is coming, proving to be a bear to edit, should have some spare time. Coming up. I do a lot of this stuff real time

Thank you for subscribing! With hope in the near future

Likewise.....my rear has been noisy for about 3 yrs now.......just learned to live with it. I just changed the oil in it, and no surprises....so that's good

@@powerking73 on mine, it gets louder as you speed up...about 30mph+ almost like a whirr

Jeremy Polk any time bud, yea the shop has been holding its own so far do good 😊

What was your problem on the 2010?

acs4llc good advice, I need to see if I can manage. Thank you for the feedback

Unlikely. Typically silicone is highly resistant to heat.

Michael Herbert she sure is, I will pass the compliment on to Tammy! ;) thank you. someone must of had a better idea! unreal I couldn't believe it either. thats what I meant by my the reaction after removing the rotor. there should be a E brake setup on both sides. wish I had that answer. all the parts are missing as well

wysetech2000 very good assumption as always! And nope you glasses 👓 are ok!lol thank you 👍

I'm wondering if someone over-torqued the pinion nut and screwed up the crush sleeve. It looked like the pinion needed to extend into the housing further to avoid running on the outside of the crown gear teeth and rolling the edge - and that should also get rid of that horrible lash at the same time. **crosses fingers and waits to see the outcome** :-D

The gear oil with friction modifier mixed in (for the limited slip) coats everything over time with something like shoe polish.

John Holmes great to tip! will try that out some timr, love the profile pic lol

The drive shaft lol

Tim webb thank you

im with you on that one 100% its the worst. thank you for the feedback and compliments

Ron Baynes lazy american, cant believe you say you dont like to work, and they wonder why mexicans take you job. Huh

Chuy he means he hates to work on something where someone else has been messing with it, especially a rear end.

adds up quick, part two coming soon where i cover more however, if you where to do the work, parts will set you back around $1,200 this is buying everything from Ford OEM minus ring and pinion. that i had to purchase aftermarket due to ratio change. said price includes ring and pinion, Thank you for stopping by and Subscribing!

Gator's World That Steve Rob is a good guy.

changes ratio, can't be bothered to do maintenance, idiots.

Gator's World Wow, you could have gotten an entire rear-end from the junk yard for $200 and just swapped it out in an afternoon.

OK mister Apollyon....I could have bought a junk yard rear end that was just as bad as mine and spent all that tire and have to do it again....not my thing....sorry...I lived and I learned....SALUTE

lol of corse it was and also gets like 8mpg

Turn up the volume

Paul Mayou it was a little low, yea I try not to broadcast it to much 😆👀👍😋😂🤣 i hope she don't read this one ☝️🤳

lmao fingers crossed she dont see it if she does well i`ll take the blame

The spacer sets proper clearance between the differential carrier and the housing, but it has nothing to do with the axle play you speak of. The axle slides a little bit in and out, but independently of the carrier, and the amount that it moves is related to the dimension from the C-clip to the stub end. Look closely and you will see that this is the case. Could it be that the previous owner replaced the axle shafts with a pair that are similar but with the wrong dimension between the C-clip and the end? I recall on my own light-duty trucks with the same kind of axle-anchoring setup, that there is some end play, but I don't remember how much. It's definitely NOT a tight clearance. Wheel bearings that are non-tapered rollers "don't care" whether the axle can move in and out. The bearing fit remains the same whichever position the axle slides to.

tracycolorado lol I heard that before, ok I'm calling this! 11:55am this one needs the heart of a cherry tree 🌲

@@robinsonsauto thats thru

Please send me a list of bullet proof stuff to rebuild mine! Gears are fine, I checked. The bearings are just making a racket. 2011 F150 with the 9.75

No the F150'S with the 5.4 3v got the 9.75 limited slip rear differential

There should be a tag on one of the cover bolts

I believe it was neglected for some time

@@robinsonsauto replacing the entire rear end would be the best choice.

Mine shudders from 54-64 mph if cruising. I thought it was the rear end, but was told it was a misfire in the motor. Not enough of one to throw a definite code, or to make the check engine light come on…they told me a timing job would “almost certainly fix the problem”. Yea, just $2,800 for a POSSIBLE fix

@@TrevorLahey3 I had the same issue. '05 F150. I bought a cheap ( like 40CAD) Bluetooth OBD2 ( it's blue says "Veepeak" on it) of the jungle website. I recomend using it with the Torque app, as there is an xml config file you can put in the directory on your device that will give you REAL TIME misfire data on a per cyl basis. This is mapped specifically at the mode 6 data for misfire count, and gives you customizable display options. I was able to use it to not only diagnose the misfire condition, but also a subsequent CVT solenoid issue ( which can also cause what you are seeing) . If it is phasers, the VCT system, or the oil system ( pump, cam passages, solenoid screen being pluged, hydraulic tensioners blowing their seal (causes a drop in oil pressure which will affect VCT functionality, as it uses oil pressure to actuate the variable timing. If you put it in gear, torque load it by putting the brakes on, and giving it between 900 and 111 rpm and hold it there. If it is in that system anywhere, the truck WILL shudder, stumble and misfire. Having a low oil level also will cause it. Ultimately the fix was me doing the a whole new timing set, new phasers, new vct solenoids, a new high pressure oil pump, and a move to 5W30. The subsequent VCT solenoid issue would ONLY happen when the truck was hot and the oil warmed up. Turns out, shitty Chinese solenoids will do that. picked up the FoMoCo ones, and we are A1 3 years later. All told cost me about 1200CAD in parts. I did NOT but the Ford phasers ( I know SHAME ON ME), but rather a newer version of the cloyes full kit from Summit Racing. I admit, it was a gamble, but they are holding up, so fingers crossed?

the 8.8 and 9.75 have many similarities

SCARFACE63 CAPONE09 these trucks shouldn’t have any transmission issues that miles that low.