💙

Got any pics of your yacht work?

My guy

I don’t have to watch the vid

@@bencoates787 n

Glad to hear it. Thanks for watching!

Glad it helped! 🙌

If you want to engrave through the veneer, the answer is yes, it can be done. But the surface below the veneer would be exposed. Most commercially sold veneer is about 1/16” thick, so engraving within the thickness of the veneer is possible, but is very delicate work. You can inlay various pieces of differently colored veneer within a larger veneered area or panel. It can be as simple as a geometric shape or as complicated as an entire picture created from shaped veneer pieces (that technique is called marquetry).

From Rob - In the case of this video, I was able to cut the veneer to the edges of the substrate with a sharp shop knife and then cut the panel to actual size on the table saw. Trimming the veneer to the edge of a panel is easy to do with a sharp knife on a hard surface. Be aware of the grain, cut “with” the grain on the long edges where the grain is running away from the edge. Trimming across the grain at the end of the panel is easy. I’ve seen folks use a flush trim bit employing a climb cut (moving the piece with the rotation of the bit) for these tasks and it seems to work. I have not tried it.

@rockler ... thanks Rob!

Great question! First, you will need to find some veneer that matches the species and figure pattern in the veneer you are patching. You can find packs of veneer in our retail locations or on our website. Next, we recommend making a template from thin stock to match with the new veneer. Cut out the shape on the furniture and scrape the substrate clean. When you have the shape of the new veneer matching the shape that you’ve removed from the furniture, you can simply glue it in place with liquid hide glue or white glue, but before you do, determine if the veneer is thicker than the existing veneer or thinner. If you find it to be thinner, you will need to build up the void so the veneer is proud of the surface when glued in place. Scrape or sand it flush. Then, you need to use the remaining “scrap” veneer to test staining and finishing the veneer to match the look of the piece of furniture’s finish. Leave the patch of raw wood until you get a suitable look on the scrap veneer, then stain and finish the veneer patch. You may need to use pore filler to help hide the edges of the patch, but again, you will probably not be able to perfectly hide the patch. An expert furniture restorer with experience might be able to do that, but us mere mortals will need to be satisfied with less than perfection.

Iron-on veneer would likely work on the inside of a bureau. The challenge would be preparing the surface to be smooth and contaminant-free. If you can achieve that goal, the iron-on should work fine. Another solution might be veneer with pressure-sensitive adhesive. It would be less work, but the adhesive may release with age.

Any kind of paste wax will work just fine.

Sounds cool!

How about buying veneered MDF and edge band it yourself with solid wood. I guess this will save both time and money and the result will be same. What did you end up doing then?

you would probably put edge banding, which is veneer with a thin width meant for the edges of boards

Hi there! To the best of our knowledge, veneer will not adhere to plastic.

@@rockler thanks for your respond! there is no way to do it ...? thanks!

The "best" glue mentioned in the video ("best" being subjective) was titebond wood glue.

Hi Adrian, applying veneer to a melamine surface is far less than an optional situation. Without seeing the cabinet and knowing how large it is makes this advice even more difficult. One thing you can do is sand the melamine surface off and get down to the core material. Then a cold press veneer adhesive or a regular white glue will work just fine. If you’d like a quick fix but one that is not as durable, you could apply paper-backed veneer and use contact adhesive to secure it to the cabinet. It is not ideal, but it would get the job done quickly and would look pretty good.

@@rocklerHello and thank you for your answer.. I found an adhesive named Titebond Melamine Glue. The producer says that it will bond extremelly strong the pieces of melamine, wood, etc. So, I'm thinking that it will work well. To sand the pieces, is a good solution, but locally for me is more expensive than to buy new replica of genuine pieces of chipboards without melamine. On the question regarding how large are the parts of the cabinet, I could say the the average piece is something about 24" x 30". What do you think about this aproach with Titebond Melamine Glue?

Almost nothing sticks to melamine. The melamine on your cupboards is very thin (like paper). What you can do is use a belt sander, or vibrating orbital sander, to remove the melamine. At that point, it will look ugly, but the veneer and glue will stick to the partical board underneathe the melamine coating after the melamine is removed.

@@samuelmuldoon4839 Thank you. I used a sander and removed the first layer of the melamine. After that I applied by Titebond Melamine Glue the veneer and pressed into a press. The method works very well. Before those works I done a test in two cases - first the veneer applied by Titebond Melamine Glue directly on melamine without any sander and second by the method described on the beggining. In the case when I tried to glue the veneer directly on the melamine, the result was very bad, but in the second test, probably, removing the first layer of melamine, I created a porosity on melamine which has contribute to a very strong adherence between melamine and veneer. So, maybe my experience could help other guys which like DIY. Best regards.

Solid video, great editing and explanations. Not to short or long of a video.

use contact cement. how did it turn out?

Hi there, veneering a larger workpiece and then cutting it into the actual part size or sizes you need can save effort on the veneering process, but the compromise would be wasting veneer. You'll have to determine what the greater benefit is.

Veneer is also sold in “two ply” varieties of double thickness, making the sheets stiffer, flatter and less prone to breaking.

@@rockler thanks

Using a table saw

Get a table saw yo

Dont need to veneer the bottom. That's a stupid rumor based on a woodworking magazine. The veneer cant bow any panel as it's expansion and contraction is negligible. Its only the moisture from the glue which can lead to bow. Use other kind of glue like plastic resin or contact cement and you'll never get any bow. (No need to veneer the other side)

flush trim router will get the job done

You can attach a 1/4 inch square, round piece of scrap or plexiglass, or in a pinch, sneak into the kitchen and swipe the cutting board. A larger base will add stability until you get used to it.

Hi Tom, we are using plain wood glue in this video!

Why stain it at all? Use birch plywood if you feel the need for stain

Where do you order these I’m being serious

Hi Chris, when you sand the veneer for finishing you will remove the adhesive residue. You can also scrub it off with some paint thinner and a fine synthetic “scratchy” pad.

You could, but the cost of a whole second veneer vs. some tape and a thin bead of glue, is much higher. Not to mention more work and risk involved if the veneers want to separate or shift in the long run.

Hi Charisma, we recommend reaching out to our Product Support team at 1-800-260-9663 or support@rockler.com. They may be able to assist you. Thank you!

Hi Alex, this presents a very difficult problem and, really, there are no perfect answers. Likely, the most practical way for you to fix the drawers is by using a paper-backed veneer and applying it to the drawer faces with contact cement. Pay close attention to the edges of the drawer front, filing the veneer back at a slight chamfer.

@@rockler thank you for your reply! They are serpentine drawers and unfortunately I don't think I am skilled enough. Will have to weigh my options of hiring a professional or paint. Not sure it is valuable enough for the cost associated with restoration. 😔

Yes! After they are applied, you can stain and finish them as you would any project.

@@rockler Thanks

It could be trimmed in many ways, such as a chisel, a veneer saw, a file and sandpaper, or a very sharp shop knife.

Most wooden looking IKEA furniture is veneered. Mdf is perfect as it's super stable, just need to choose the right adhesive based on the surface you're applying it to.

Your best options would be to inlay the veneer or veneer the edges with the same wood as the base.

Here is the link www.rockler.com/domestic-3-square-foot-veneer-packs

Yes, you can.

Hi, Please reach out to our product support team at 1-800-260-9663 or support@rockler.com. They'll be able to assist you. Thank you

Hi there, you can buy veneer on our website! You can find it at www.rockler.com/shop?w=wood+veneer or by searching "Wood veneer" at www.rockler.com

Hi Jayne, oriented strand board is really intended to be building or subfloor sheathing and not a product for woodworking. It has a coarse, uneven surface that will likely telegraph through thin wood veneer. MDF is a better sheet goods choice for veneering. Or use a veneered plywood instead. Either option will provide the super smooth surface you need for high-quality veneering.

@@rockler thank you so much!

And I for make flamed maple tops or other patterns on cheap guitar bodies 😅

Great question, and one we have almost no experience with, but even so, here is our best advice. First, sand the surface of the board smooth and clean. The challenge will be firmly clamping the veneer in place as the adhesive cures. Making a clamping caul that matches the shape of the skateboard face would be the best way to do it, but it is a bit tricky to execute. Another way to do that would be to make three (or perhaps more) clamping cauls that will apply pressure on the entire face of the skateboard. Last piece of advice we have is the adhesive. The veneer on the board will take a beating. Our advice is to use epoxy resin (www.rockler.com/mas-table-top-pro-epoxy) as the adhesive for the veneer. In addition, that product would be a very good top coat finish for the veneer. Good luck!

@@rockler Thank you, this is very precious ! Continue your video, I love it !

The edges of the panel can be treated in a few ways. If the panel is captured in a frame and panel, they can be left uncovered. You can glue solid lumber around the perimeter of the panel and lay the veneer over that edging. This means taking into account trimming the panel to size. You can also use iron on premade veneer tape, or you can make your own iron-on strips. Lastly you could glue a molding or other type of edging around the panel, of the same species as the veneer or a complementary species.

Lol

you better get rich then, or have rich clients

Go and inspect some Amish made furniture sometime

use contact cement. problem solved.

Not everyone has a vacuum bag setup. This is for those people. 🙌

There's usually a higher end woodworking lumber shop. In our neighborhood, it's Ganahl Lumber.

Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

For trimming: Use a light weight trim router, $20-40 dollars. A flush cut bit with bearing on the end. Lightly sand the whole thing and apply sealer and/or stain.

Thank you for the feedback. We have passed this along to our video team.

It is unnecessary in any case. The veneer is not able to bow any panel but if you use water base glue the moisture from it can cause the bow. Not the veneer

Problem is those come in either 2x4 or 4x8 and the species is pretty limited compared to the variety you can get in veneer rolls, you can also orientate the grain the way you want and they also sell burl veneers and other unique variations that you wont find on large sheets of plywood.

Or go with a vacuum press system.

You mean this is the way that someone who cares about their work would do it 🤷

Seemed perfectly fine to me!

I just completed a small veneer project using this video as my guide and it worked perfectly. Thank you for the information Rob. Mike: Can I suggest you offer your experience next time instead of throwing shade? I can only assume you must be very well versed in veneering, so next time put your product where your mouth is. Can I also suggest you use a grammar and spell checker? "You should learn more about how to communicate properly before you post error-riddled and unhelpful comments on-line." If you cannot say anything nice, at least try not to butcher the easiest language on the planet while you're at it.

@@BenKingEagles Well said, Ben.