Hi, thanks! However, about a 1.5 year I still working with these new faders but new scale panels I designed just a couple of weeks ago :) I can not recommend these machines are in general - it would be a very bold statement. For most people, they are old, not very comfortable compared to mac/pc-based DAW, is too autonomous (no data interface for transfer/backup) and require periodic maintenance and even small repairs - replacement faders, potentiometers, tact panel buttons with time, cd-rom drives... I'm still working with them, because it is habitual for me, it never gives failures, very reliable, and it just works for me, at least for now. About of their replacement in the future, I do not know, maybe it IZ or Otari DR-100. About hellish back-up... I do periodic cd-r backup, sometimes multidisc cd-r backup, it depends on the project size and necessity of storage and changes in future. I think it would be best to store all cd-r backups on PC via proper ISO-burning utility that is able to recognize the format of Roland backups and just make a cd image on the PC hard drive for storage and later burning cd-r when need a project recover... I have heard that there are emulator of cd-rom drive that have usb host instead of physical media - it would be fun! I work in a M24 mode and 48k - it is optimal for today's pop/rock recordings. The use of higher sample rate in my opinion it would be excessive, and moreover, oh yes, files are really big! 96k will be better for classical and chamber recordings with wide dynamic range.

I was gonna buy one which seems cheap ($600),but Dude I really thank you so much for saving a lot of money for me!I think I'd rather stick with my countless DAWs.

You can of course put some oil in between the mechanical parts on the moving slider, and that might somehow help for a while. But the problem is that a lot of dust can accumulate inside the faders, and any oil or grease will collect this dust into a dirty and abrasive mess. Ideally, of course, you need to unsolder all the faders from the board, disassemble them and clean the inside with isopropyl alcohol .. Before assembling, you can put a little grease between the moving parts (slider and body), but do not grease the carbon track.

The original faders were made by Matsushita (Panasonic) especially for Roland machines and very rare today. Unfortunately, none of Alps faders will not be suitable for direct replacement of the original faders (they cannot be simply re-soldered onto the board instead of genuine faders). If you want to put Alps faders there, you will need a lot of mechanical work - drilling, sawing, wiring, new fader knobs, and a lot of patience and some experience. I made such a mod (which you see in this video), go here on the forum - www.vsplanet.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1387885#Post1387885 there I described everything, also there you will find links to photos on Google Drive. But after a while, I made another "more solid" mod with a custom removable fader panel: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j5iGgtN0mbeVc6M.html

No, 2400 and 2480 faders are very different in construction design and dimensions and cannot be a direct replacement.

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice I got a dsp netcheck code 111 do you know what that means?

Also doesnt want to make any sound when I'm recording in and is super slow and clunky. Bought a for parts one thinking I'd be able to fix it. Ended up being a bit more wrong with it then what the guy mentioned.

​@@djspinista Do you have 2400 or 2480? Some failures or errors may be due to poor contacts in the connectors, as well as due to internal system defects. Check all connectors, carefully pull out and reinsert them several times. If that doesn't help, contact Roland's Japanese service department and ask them. Unfortunately, I do not have a error codes list, but they should definitely have such data. Slow navigation and operation can still be due to a worn out or fragmented hard drive. I had one old 2400 machine, which, when turned on, was always silent, but the sound appeared after 4-10 hard reboots, then everything seemed to work, but the signal was accompanied by slight crackles (and also recorded to HDD with such crackles), and no one in the service departament could not describe even an approximate reason... You just have to understand that this is a rather specialized computer, and in the event of serious system failures, it will be difficult even for an advanced computer technician to repair it, since specialized chips and software are used there. As far as I am informed, Roland has not been repairing these machines for a long time, and there is no one left there who would know anything ... Perhaps they can sell you the motherboard if they are left in stock... Usually these machines are reliable, and in most cases the repair consists of replacing wearing parts (faders, tact buttons, fans, pots, hdd, etc).

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice thats exactly what happening with the noises and clicks no audio. Maybe I'll rip it apart again. I'll probably end up selling it for parts. The service department in canada was willing to take a look at it. They must have some one here who knows about them. For the price I paid it's not worth the money to have it serviced but ifbi can get it going myself wouldn't be so bad. Would rather pay the amount for a nice condition new one then the fees involved with servicing . Thanks for the replay I'll try the connector thing. The person who owned this before me took horrible care of it. Dont know how you can own nice gear and treat it so bad lol.

Да, невидимые руки ))) сейчас фейдеры уже потихоньку начинают подглючивать спустя ровно два года с момента замены, надо опять залезать туда и профилактировать.

я думал такой аппарат долго профилактить не надо

такие нюансы не для моих ушей))