Yes, Rocna recommends this also and i did the same.

Instablaster

i knew a guy with fucked up vision from doing that... his eyes had dark bits in them from stuff

Yep I knew of a guy almost died when one broke and sunk deep in his thigh almost lacerated an artery.

I swear watching him cut that they way he did made my cringe

Are you his daddy?

Holy crap, no guard on the grinder, no face protection, no ear protection, no gloves and no shoes! He's lucky to be alive 😂

you might trust bring your chain down with ospho it's a pretty good rust and preventer and wash it with fresh water when you heave up if you have the water to to spare

@@davidsimpson7231 Thanks for the tip David. I inherited a bottle of ospho with no instructions on my boat, had no idea what it was good for.

What a waste of time

@@davidsimpson7231 Even better if you spray/soak it with vinegar and then dip chain in Ospho. It works twice as good.

Oil, or whatever they use to keep it from deteriorating so quickly.. I'm not sure what they use, but i'm betting there is some type of oil based something in most ropes.. I know for a fact that using bleach or things like that rust remover will dry rope out..

Put a serious rope on the end of the chain, one strong enough to hole the boat. Suspect that small stuff you have sprayed will not be any good.

Mary Gray Its a safety feature. We do similarly on ships (the chain is attached to the bulkhead on a weak link). If you desperately need to get off the anchor, you can drive it all the way out and then break yourself free from the chain. The only reason why you should attach the end of the anchor chain to something is to prevent the chain from knotting itself up.

Amen to this!

👍💯On point! Great advice!💝

Happens

@zapp1919 Good God! Appears I inadvertently trolled up some poor soul with diminished capacity. You slept through grade school comprehension? "Blame"? WTF are you smoking? I've built boats from Thailand to the Bahamas, 30 years finish foreman on 6-year long mega-million estate jobs- Forbes top 100 kind. 25 years of that I never wrote a resume. I've worked on 8 of the top most expensive homes in Hawaii to date. In that time I've fired shit-tons of sassy youngsters with attitude just like you. So fuckwit, my admonishment was directed toward non-journeyman folks, usually young, doing sketchy work outside any OSHA guidelines. A real-world warning of potential catastrophic accidents they may not be aware of. Furthermore you seem to be unaware of the more nuanced side of OSHA regs. which DO tolerate guards being removed temporarily to allow for custom jigs & myriad obtuse or otherwise impossible cuts in varying materials/situations --- as long it can be shown & proven that contingent safety measures, "reasonable effort" was made to mitigate safety concerns. But ultimately - go fuck yourself.

There is no need to tie it, because Dan just jams his hand in to keep it in place! :-) Oww! down down down down down! (edited out expletives) Ahhh!

LOL !!!

I have a sort of "LOCK" on my bowsprit, that sort of "locks" my anchor in place when it's fully pulled up. I have to go forward and pull a little string up, in order to "unlock" the anchor and have it ready to drop. It prevents you from losing your anchor in rough seas if the pin or the bolt on the swivel fail. Too bad you can't post pictures in the comment section. BTW: All my chain is 40mm Stainless steel. (40 ft sailboat)

@@thomask5295 - You *can* post links to pictures though.. upload the pic to imgur and link to it.

Unknown

Yup, that is a basic rigging principle. They don’t care. They just know ‘high or low satndard’

It's bronze, not brass. Brass isn't gonna last long in a marine environment. www.cruisingworld.com/how/down-brass-tacks

@@Garryck-1 I'm surprised they used bronze, because it will consume the zinc on the chain and more especially on the anchor shank where it rests on the roller. Seawater makes a conductive electrolyte to set up a zinc-copper "battery", resulting in electrolytic anodic corrosion. If it were me I'd stick will aluminium for the replacement roller, and bush it with tufnol so it stays free-running. The larger diameter where the chain contacts it will also help to prevent it from failing to rotate.

That is not a corrosion hazard. A galvanised swivel on ss chain would be a much bigger problem.

I used a galvanized swivel, but a removable big link of stainless, on an all chain rode. The swivel must be MUCH bigger than the chain. Never gave any problems.

BenjaminFranklin99 that works. And galvy swivels need to be oversize whenever possible. One link of ss won't hurt a galvanised swivel. But 800 pounds of ss chain will have a destructive corrosive effect on it, "galvanically".

Wonder if I could use it for etching blades....

Oxalic acid is present in many healthy food items and produced in the human body, and the other chemical is a major constituent of various whiteboard cleaners, liquid soaps, and cosmetics

Sailing S/V Slipstream sounds like an idea ...so I want to buy stainless steel chain for the boat . Where are you recommending? I've priced 316 stainless at 1,890 for 250ft not sure where it was made though?

No they are not the putting in the right impurities chrome and vanadium.

Jim Anderson For whatever it's worth, I once had a 3/8" stainless steel chain snap at anchor. This was on a 50" ketch that had been seeing daily use for about 5 years as a day charter boat for a hotel down in the Carib. We only spent about 2 hours at anchor each day. My understanding is that stainless is less ductile than galvanized, and tends to get a bit brittle over time. That certainly seems to be the case in my experience, and personally I would absolutely stick with a high quality galvanized chain.

Sailing S/V Slipstream the swivel looks like it is stainless which is brittle

There Are types of stainless that are suitable for immersion, like 22-13-5's for example. Prop shafts and rod rigging made from similar alloys have stood the test of time. But i don't know of any anchor chain being made from these alloys, and when you think about it neither prop shafts nor rod rigging are ever welded, chain is. 316 is superior to 302/304, but i believe still subject to crevice corrosion. I have found that while BBB is best for yacht anchor chain, proof coil is an excellent choice as well. Thank you.

When you said "zinc embrittlement" Did you mean steel embrittlement during galvanizing? This is confined to high tensile chain and only where acid cleaning is used. Zinc doesn't cause embrittlement.

@@mm5aho thats what I said. Galvanising [zinc] can cause strength problems in certain chains. We call it [UK] zinc embrittlement

@@stephenjdixon1 It's not galvanizing that causes or can cause embrittlement, its immersion in acid for a long time. Most galvanizing processes use acid, but there are others, and short immersion does not risk embrittlement in high tensile steels. The immersion in zinc doesn't cause embrittlement.

Link to chain and spec please?

Nanaimo is not Northern BC...

I was always told "it won't hurt when the pains gone"

Jakfilm he used it in Haiti during hurricane. Held up pretty good.

Looks like 5/16

MrPoppasmurf79 actually he used a mantis that's even bigger during the storm.

Yes, Mantus makes cheap Chinese anchors but a very good swivel.

That swivel is ok but I wouldn't trust it as A is no good when bending B is stainless strong galvanised shackle is much stronger and when bending you have the space in the shackle. The pin needs to be secured with some stainless wire or be welded in so it never moves.

Absolutely LOVE IT!!! Never failed us!

William Munger tumbling it in a drum with pebble stone sounds cheaper and less dangerous than dragging it down a beach.

we drive down a bithumen road to clean our chain, we also cook it in old sump oil, that stops the rusting

@@stevenlovett8436 Tumbling rusty chain in a cement mixer drum with stones also works, but wears out the mixer motor!

Ouch imagine get rusty chunks in your foot whilst going a nice walk

void the swivel warrentie.

allen schmitz How do you mean?

John Tripp I agree!!

Totally agree. I have lost anchor (temporarily) when there was a clutch malfunction on the windlass and the chain roared out a high speed, wrenching itself off the bitter end (that's the rope). You need at least as much rope as will let the chain fall to the seabed and take the strain off the bitter end.

Samson warp speed is a good choice. What if it let go in deep water? The dynamic load of the rope trying to stop 1/4 ton of chain would be somewhere north of 5 or 6 thousand pounds. I have seen it happen, no clutch or brake could stop it, the silence that follows is deafening. If the monkey's fist on the end won't fit through the hawse, and the rope is very strong, it may pop a hole in the deck. If the rope ends before the chain is out of reach, it is easier to bouy off the end by tying it to chain, than tying onto a piece of rope that is stretched tight and about to be cut. Ideal length for a bouy line is 6' less than the low tide water depth, so nobody messes with it but it's visible. Hit MOB on your gps to find it later. I have no criticism of "how" you do anything, we are All just trying to get through our lives, accidents and mistakes are part of it too. BTW the way that you weave the rope through the chain is a Legitimate "splice".

Definitely agree with all comments below, however the "rope" should be nylon, which is always used for anchor rode as it stretches, whereas dacron or line made for running rigging is designed not to stretch.

@@lazydays7470 Thanks for the description. I never realized the difference. I my just knew to never use the term rope.

acmeopinion factory ....which if atomised or sprayed is an extreme inhalation hazard.

acmeopinion factory i was so relieved when she put on a bonafide respirator. I was highlighting the danger behind spraying any acid, in liquid form it's pretty innocuous, atomised it becomes very dangerous. Thanks

@Siward Beorn It's a 3M mask with the gas cartridges, which are different than the dust/particle cartridges. She is fine. More than that would be a full suit, which would be ridiculously overkill.

soving your good on the call by me. I was going to say something too. Grinders are dangerous! Its spinning at 10,000 RPM, great tool must have to do the job. Safety glass must be used all the time at the least and a face shield highly recommended. For 20 years I wore a leather apron to protect myself from grinders. Loose clothing, long hair and fires are also real dangers. Looks like the grinding wheel is to large and the guard was removed. Using the wrong wheel at 10,000 RPM may cause the grinding wheel to come apart. Grinding wheels do have RPM ratings. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m7B_nK6mu8u8cWQ.html

That almost happened to me. I was grinding off a piece of metal and the disk chipped and the piece brushed the corner of my eyelash. I now wear a full face mask.

I've pulled metal out of eyes for 20 years (eye doctor), about 1-2 a week.... 90% is from grinders. I've seen it go through the eye... Wear full protection!!!!!

I am with the eye doctor, I am an ER doc, we use an opthalmic burr several times a week to 'dremel' bits of metal embedded in cornea. We also have pulled large chunks of grinder and cut off wheels out of chests, armpits, and even necks. I also treat severe chemical burns from "rust remover" that ends up being hydroflouric acid. Love the channel, but stay safe so we can watch more.

ye i know a maintenance man that lost his left eye from a exploding grinding wheel were i used to work ...i were a shield even at home when using a grinder

HCl is too strong... citric acid (yes, the one in lime juice) is perfect.

HCL can can be used just at a lower %. Your can also HF acid but at a super lower concentration.

You clearly don't have well water LOL. I use a stronger rust remover thanks to my crappy well water.

Could be oxalic acid too. Great for rust not too harmful to other things.

Frank Ladd oxalyic acid is exactly correct.

They had zip ties marking length.

No kidding, he'd make a fortune 🙂⛵❤

@@nomadequipment2177 They would cost a fortune... looks like Aluminum-Nickel-Bronze...

Yup looks like bronze, better than stainless, and will last for a long time, it might oxidize though unless it is another special alloy

Did you not see the zip ties?

Most people who don't paint their chain in increments it is because the paint flakes off after a bit.

I was saying the same thing, MARK THAT CHAIN...unless they have a chain counter, which I didn't see. Although, I did see some plastic zip ties they had attached, which looked like markers of sorts, so maybe they didn't want the paint chipping off.

Ha ! wait till you see mine!