My pleasure,also make sure the vent is clean. If the dryer is taking more than one cycle. You can use time-dry for 45 -50 minutes. Thanks for watching I appreciate it

Appreciate it , thanks for sharing

Thanks keep me posted on your repair

@@appliancerepairshorts got the parts from Amazon and had it working about 10 minutes later. About 6 months ago I put a new belt and tensioner pulley. After I got all working I put on low heat and turned on. Then cleaned the exhaust vent with a 20 foot long flex brush for a drill.

Email me I’ll tell you a trick. It will get you through

My pleasure, my email is open for questions. Thanks for watching

Yes I appreciate it you just save me $1000 or I will keep you in mind you to save selection lol never know when I’ll need you again

You're very welcome! Appreciate your feedback

Yep. That's what I did before I ripped the entire dryer apart and scattered pieces throughout the house.

Yes I’m aware of that. You will find people doing things differently. When you open your dryer the proper way for repair. You can inspect other parts and clean. It takes less time to dismantle than to fight to see what you are doing in the back. Been there, don’t recommend it.

@@appliancerepairshorts can I reach out to you somehow? My dryer samsung model dve50r5200w/a3 want start but will light up. When I press start I can hear a click sound. I just paid $85. to a rep that says it's the circuit board, & it's backlogged from China. I'd come out better buying purchasing an Amana or Roper.

@@delhollingsworth4755 so sorry my email is listed. It sounds like a belt is off , a thermal fuse, or a bad board. I’m running the model number now. What was the outcome?

Sounds like you might have a bad motor. Do this, if your dryer has air fluff/ no heat cycle. Put it on run it for 15 minutes. Do you hear a humming sound before it starts

I actually have videos on testing exactly what you are saying. You are right, but they are sensitive to heat and depending on the sensitivity of the tester you might not get a reading. Thanks for watching

Sorry for the late response, just going through comments. To answer your question, yes and no. The idea is you are looking for a clear passage. You are looking for a signal. If the item being tested is broken, as in no signal. Having the wires connected is not going to give you a signal. So no you don’t. Sometimes if you have multiple sensors that are connected to one, source, then yes.

Awesome! Just seeing your comment

So tell me a little more, what kind of washer? Include a model number. Have you tried unplugging it for 5-10 minutes

Make sure you have all your wire connected. Check your belt switch. Your belt switch could be bad or lint buildup. You might have a defective part. Are you testing the bad part. What test have you done? Recap. When you press start and you hear a click, a few things can cause the . The belt being off/ switch is bad, the thermal fuse and the board. If all is good, get a screwdriver handle and gain access to the board and tap the relay. Not the one with two wires the one next to it. Unplug before doing anything. Keep me posted. I also have another video with similar issues, but it was a belt. I’ll try and find it for you. If not Samsung clicking sound

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Any idea what the issue was? Same with us, we replaces all these and still clicks but doesn’t turn.

@@gostudystudent3763 did you check the new component to make sure it is not defective? Also check your belt switch or the belt wasn’t installed correctly.

@@gostudystudent3763 check your work/connections. Also test the new part it might be defective. Or your drum belt is off /broken or a bad idler switch

Thanks for watching, your thermal fuse is located on the element. The small one Infront of the high limit thermostat. If you press the start button and nothing. You have a bad belt switch, broken belt,idler pulley wheel is damaged and is causing the belt to come off. The thermal high limit is a safety fuse. It is part of the heating circuit. The thermal fuse will stop it from heating. So what is going on with your dryer now? Not turning on or not heating?

@@appliancerepairshorts thanks for replying !! I first changed a thermal fuse on my heating element. After using a multimeter, I realized the thermal fuse next to the motor was out (so I changed that as well.) That fixed the problem. I ran it for week, and now its back to square one. When I press start, it clicks. That what was happening originally. So I figured the thermal fuse went out again, but it didnt. Now I'm not sure what's going on. My belt is tight, idk what else would be causing it.

I did also buy a new control panel, I checked my circuit board (mines a touch screen) I didnt see any blow outs. I'm at a loss.

Also to give you context, the dryer stopped working after I put a set of tennis shoes in the dryer by themselves (lots of banging for about 1 min then stopped) The dryer worked fine before that and is about 1 year old.

@@tonycallister sorry just seeing this, I think you might have some restriction in your vent. Either the dryer vent or the house. Check your blower wheel as well. Also check your belt, belt switch and check the thermal fuse again. You can do a little bit of bypass just for checking. Usé electrical tape for securing any wires that are exposed. Keep me posted

@@tonycallisterdid you ever figure out what was wrong? The same exact thing happened to me. Put shoes in the dryer and now I get a clicking sound. I’m planning on changing the thermal fuse tomorrow but not sure if it’s going to fix the problem.

Just seeing your comment. Normally no, but if you have verified that you don’t have a problem- then yes , but only temporarily. Keep in mind that there is usually a problem that is why it failed. So check your ventilation from behind the dryer to the exit of the house. Also the blower wheel, grounded element or high limit thermostat on the element. The first one as you are looking inside. If you don’t hear from you you can email me. I get comments late

Do you have a meter to test your heating element? It sounds like it may be grounding- the coils are touching the element housing or there is a screw that may be touching. I have a video on how to check for a grounded element. It may also the motor. To check it, put it on a no heat (air dry/fluff) cycle and let it run. If it doesn’t cut off, then your motor is fine. If it does, replace the motor. I might have a video on that but if you need any more help, let me know. Thanks!

@@appliancerepairshorts I have a meter I will check everything, I will try to find your video, The air dry/fluff function is a good idea :) thank you.

@@appliancerepairshorts I checked all parts and also checked the screws to see if there it is shorting to run too hot all seems fine, after that I changed the thermistor and it blew the fuse next to thermistor and I replaced the fuse and put the old thermistor back problem is back being HC code very frustrating. I also run the refresh mode and it seems like running OK under refresh. as soon as real dry cycle starts it is giving an HC code after few minutes.... I wish there was an easier way to check this thing other than trial and error.... Thank you for all your help.

@@ottur put the dryer on air fluff, it should not heat. If you are getting hot on air fluff, you have a grounded element

$89 on Amazon

So sorry for the late reply. If you still need help, please email me. Thanks

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Thermal fuse, but check your blower wheel, your vent or even a grounded element

The only part that was replaced was the thermal fuse. Sorry I should have explained more in depth. Make sure you check your venting behind the dryer and also the venting that is outside. Thanks

The thermal fuse. The part number is in the description. Thanks for watching

So first off, before you were having issues, how long was it taking to dry? If it was taking more than one cycle to dry. I would start at your venting. Make sure everything is clean and unrestricted. If you just had a new roof on your house, go to the venting and check. Builders always leave the screen on them. Remove it. You have a flapper. If all those are good, I would check your blower wheel make sure it is spinning properly. If that is fine then remove the thermostats and use a hairdryer/heater and test them. If your cycling thermostat isn’t cycling,it will blow the thermal fuse on the blower housing. I have a video on thermostats and thermistors. It is a slim chance it would be the board . The board sends power to the element through relay. Usually the dryer would stay running on a or will not start. You will not hear a click on a bad board.Did you buy Samsung OEM? It makes a difference. Keep me posted on your repair.

@@appliancerepairshorts "You will not hear a click on a bad board". I want to scream given everything I tested above. So if everything I mentioned tested good, what would you do?

@@independenttntn3276 first tell me what symptoms you are having. Don’t tell me what you think. Bad boards can click. Sometimes they don’t. So explain what the dryer is not doing and tell me what you have checked and how

@@appliancerepairshorts The dryer powers on, but after you select the cycle then push the start button you just hear a click that sounds like it's coming from the rear of the dryer. Updated: I finally fixed it. Should have gone with my initial conclusion to begin with.

@@independenttntn3276 What ended up being your issue?

How long was your dryer taking to dry a load?if you have to run it more than once, your venting is clogged

Thanks for the part number. Totally forgot.

Do all Samsung dryers use the same Thermal Fuse or do I need to find a specific one for my model?

I’ll send you an email shortly

Fair enough, yes the part I replaced was the thermal fuse. It is located on the blower housing. It monitors the temperature in the venting. If you have a failure that would cause the temperature to get to a unsafe limit, it trips. I was checking for a close circuit. When it is in a closed position you get a reading, continuity. A bad thermal fuse is opened. Make sure you your venting from the back of the dryer to the exit is free of restriction. Thanks for pointing that out

@@appliancerepairshorts You're welcome. Thanks for the video. After re-reading my comment I sound like an ass (to me at least) and didn't mean to come across as rude, just wanted to point out that you're the pro and what comes as second nature to you is a mystery to many of those watching. Speaking of being a pro, you may get a kick out of the fact that my comment above was posted a month ago and my dryer remains in pieces so my wife is getting tired of hanging clothes. I was really hoping it was the thermal fuse but it wasn't and things are never easy for me. If I had luck, I would have been retired from Holdem decades ago, yet here I am. My dryer sounds exactly like yours in the video. The motor windings (centrifugal switch pins 3/4 and 4/5) are in the expected resistance range, the door switch, belt cut-off switch, resistors (element etc) all good, there's no burn marks on the main control board which is where I think I'm hearing the click and I suppose the clicking is the relay switch on the board which is open between the terminals but there's no mention of what it should be so I expect that's normal until it closes, unless it's not closing. And like an idiot, I didnt read through Samsungs entire technical guide that came with it BEFORE I started troubleshooting and now realize I could have entered test mode and pulled up error recall. Given the clicking is on the control board, I'm going to put it back together and check for errors and probably roll the dice on the main board. I don't know where you buy your thermal fuses, but you can pick one up on Walmart.com for about $7. I did that, then realized when I got the new one I had tested the old thermal fuse on the wrong resistance setting so I thought it was open. I was more unhappy than my wife about that. But as you know, it's kinda hard to measure 25K Ohms on a 200 Ohm setting. I wasn't happy when I realized my "fix" was in fact not.

Sorry for the late response. Sorry I didn’t mention it. Thermal fuse.amzn.to/41u4iUO

Been doing this for a while. Continuity is a signal. No signal no continuity. Imagine a Christmas tree with lights. If one light is out, it stops the circuit, so no lights. Anything in a circuit that is at fault, it has to show up. I can test all the thermostat in one go, but of course testing for continuity and testing for functionality is not the same. Thanks for watching

Yes I agree. Sorry for the late response. Thermal fuse

My apologies, appreciate the feedback. That part is called a thermal fuse. It monitors and keep the temperature at a safe level. When it fails, you have a over heating condition. Could be a failure of the cycling thermostat, clogged blower housing,kinked dryer venting or venting to the outside is clogged. Let me know if you have any questions

amzn.to/3TIVG8U

I appreciate it brother