No, I’m not kissing a** here. I don’t really see why there’s a need for negativity. Project farm has not been bought by any sponsors and uses his own equipment at his own cost assuming all of the risk for our entertainment. He also goes through experiments that most of us would think of doing or buying products we have doubts about. In my honest opinion, project farm gets played on KZfaq from my tv on Sundays and I can honestly say he’s the best subscribed channel I have. Please keep up the great content!

I have run water/isopropanol alcohol injection in a 4 stroke 1000cc turbocharged engine. Water-ipa injects into each intake track at 150 psi, the water alcohol mix is completely waporized when entering the combustion chamber. I've run this on many of my turbo charged Yamaha snowmobiles over the years. On teardown of the engines I've found them all completely free of carbon deposits inside the combustion chamber, on the valves, and on the top of the pistons. There is no harm seen from the injection of water. Reason for running water-ipa injection is the ability to run higher boost on pump gas insted of running race fuel. Poor man's race fuel is a nickname used for this injection. I've run 22 psi of boost making about 350 HP in the 1000 cc engines on pump gas. Side effect was a very clean engine in the intake and combustion chamber. Thank you for your videos, very informative, highly appreciated. Greetings from Norway 🙂

After rewatching this and seeing your new videos, you have come such a long way in both your presentation and video editing over the years, kudos to you. Thanks for your continuing work in testing and giving great information with no marketing BS.

I believe sea foam does adequate job w/o having to replace the oil in the engine. Oil and extra time equates to more than $7.00

Neighbors: it's pouring rain and Project Farm's been mowing his lawn for 2 hours.

Anybody else amazed that a $100 mower keeps working after all this?

I love this guys energy, short, concise, and to the point.

We had a Chevy 350 engine in a DOH crew cab truck which spends a lot of time at idle or slow speeds when working on the roads. It had a serious sounding knock and I thought it was toast. My buddy I worked with, great mechanic by the way, said he thought it was a carbon knock, so he did the water treatment for no more than 5 or 10 minutes at the most and the knock was gone. After working with him for almost 30 years, he never ceased to amaze me with his seat of the pants knowledge.

I really appreciate all the time and cost you have put into this to teach all of us amateur motorheads about these techniques and products. Thanks! Subscribed!

9:08 I appreciate the use of a 10 ton bottle Jack to raise up the front of the lawn mower.

I’ve spent so much time and money keeping water out of my engines, there is just no way I’m putting it in on purpose. Great vids keep up the good work!

We learned the water to clean carbon trick when I went to motorcycle school back in the 80's We were taught to use a mister(spray bottle) to atomize the water. I've seen results of that on motorcycles and it worked well. dribbling the water in I would worry about not having it atomize correctly. I would love to see this same test with a water spray vs. dribble. Love your tests!

Old Briggs lawn mower engine- “wow, after 12 years I’m retiring- going to a great retirement home called Project Farm!” Project Farm- “heh heh heh..... just have a seat, this won’t hurt a bit...” Keep up the great work sir!

We watched this guy in school and now I watch him all the time keep up the great work

*The way how the chap is a bit shy* in those older videos is adorable. But I love newer videos where he is more upbeat and smiley, too.

I just watched two episodes of attempting to remove carbon from a cylinder head. Water, then Sea Foam vs Marvels Mystery Oil. Back in the early 80's when I started tinkering with engines I used the water followed by transmission oil to recondition piston rings. Over the years I have used Berryman, and STP, products. However, watching your videos I believe that the MMO product does the best and can treat more common problems from fuel cell issues, head & upper cylinder, to rotating Assemblies. Thank you for your time and studies. Glenn

Sea foam: spend $7 pour, run, change oil, enjoy. Water: Free design drip system, construct drip system, run and monitor for hours, change oil several times (not free), enjoy. You decide who's the winner.

I think this guy needs his own TV show great work!!! I wish I had the time and resources to do the stuff that you're able to do

Clearly seafoam wins this contest. It doesn’t risk engine damage.

Many years ago an old timer mechanic showed me how he "steam cleans" the combustion chambers in car engines and I have done it many times myself, though not in many years now! Start the engine with the air cleaner off. Bring it up to tamp and raise the idle while pour water slowly out of a jar/cup and while it tries to die, raise the RPM higher to keep it running. I have seen a difference on spark plugs before and after doing this, so I have to imagine it helps clean everything else in the chamber!!

Just a suggestion for ease of comparison. I know that the seafoam results are in another video, but a quick recap (just the pics) of the seafom would be helpful. Also would it be possible to use a split screen to show, say, the seafoam vs. water. This is more of a suggestion for the post editing process before upload and publish.

Should've used Flint, MI water. That would REALLY clean it.

HAven't watched anything here yet, but I will say, before starting (just to keep it interesting) : we dinosaur hot-rodders used to cobble together quite a few different variations on water-injection systems back in the 70s-80s to 'extend' the combustion cycle-time just a tad, while not messing with the actual ignition timing. Some people swore by them, others swore that they were just another fad that was useless unless one had an entire garage full of hi-tech diagnostic stuff to measure the variables with. Personally, I think the results varied greatly because of the amount of difference in everyone's engines at the time. The diff's between Chevys-Pontiacs-Fords-Mopars etc, displacements, manifolds, carbs, (this was before FI), exhaust flow-rates/pressures, etc and the variations in cam and timing specs etc. made almost any comparison, other than that of one engine to another of the exact same make/year/displacement etc., almost useless. Most of us tried it, decided whether it worked for us or not and either kept it or disconnected it. I built one on a '66 289 2bbl 4-spd Comet, drilled/tapped into the manifold on both sides of the base beneath the carb, stuck a .070 jet into the end of a piece of copper tubing on each side, that seemed to help mileage when I was cruising; but when I was out 'racing' and strutting on the weekends, I just shut it off, since it seemed to cut down on throttle response. But that's just me, and THAT engine, with THOSE specs, etc. Damn, I miss that car... as we used to say, that car would really 'shit n' git'... Kids today have NO idea what they're missing (same as with the music)... Years ago, I remember taking my friend's nephew on a ride in my all time favorite car, a '70 Challenger 440+6. My friend was working on his car and needed a few parts (nuts n' bolts stuff) and instead of him taking his car down off the jackstands etc I said I'd go to the store for him. I got in, and his nephew asked to come with me. As I was buckling up, I told him to do the same and he actually laughed at me. I laughed back, then punched the gas and took him two blocks in about 1.8 seconds, then hit the brakes. He closed his mouth, nervously buckled his seat belt and kept his mouth shut the whole time till we got back. LIFE LESSON LEARNED: and the lesson is: "Kid, back when Detroit had balls they used to sell some bad-ass machinery. If you get in a '70s muscle car, and the driver tells you to buckle up....there's a REASON!" American Muscle!! Never equalled!!

2 Hours! Wow when I was a kid in high school auto shop in the 70s our instructor taught us to us a single glass of water down the carb slowly (over like 2 minutes) while the engine was revving at about 3000 rpm. Another important point, I am not a small engine mechanic but when tightening head bolts or any bolt pattern DONT go in a circle, tighten the bolt across from the last one

Last question... Yes I would and do use water. Always have. As in the other suggestion I actually switched to steam with wand applicator. The steam is what cleans and its already in steam form and much easier to deliver especially in a fuel injected engine. I do suggest using the steam wand ... I believe you will be impressed with the outcome... Maybe use a vacuum pump on a small engine to help with the crankcase. Although you should see less with steam.

Man, you put a lot of work into this, thank you!

My vote: Sea foam. Letting water get into a sump is sacrilegious :)

Just watched this 5 years later. Wow. Your channel is still great after all these years. I’m wondering if the methodology gave the mixed result. I’d be tempted to add a mist of water in the air intake in a stop/start way to keep the engine temperature higher. You may achieve a better ‘steam clean’ that way. This appeared in my feed after searching Liqui-Moly Diesel engine cleaner. Still love your work 👍

Thanks for doing these tests for us all. Great public service :)

Pulled many cylinder heads from many vehicles that had blown head gaskets. The affected cylinders were nearly spotless from the steam cleaning every time.

Water added to the intake, fast cools and FRACTURES the carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. That is why you need to have the engine up to a very high temp before you add the water. After the initial hit of water, it has cooled down enough it will not do any more good as the carbon is not red hot anymore and it just runs the water through the engine and as you found out, dilutes the oil. Sea foam is a chemical compatible with fuel and oil so it reacts favorably to the gas and oil when exposed over an extended time as you did in this test. Hard to compare the two in this manner when the water only cools and fractures the red hot carbon and blows it out the exhaust and SeaFoam chemically cleans the carbon after it cools it. I really like all the videos you are producing! Very thorough, fair, and relevant to most of us gear heads.

Wild looking back at this channel from back when I first became aware of it. Production flow has clearly improved, as has recording of audio. Keep doing great work!

Great video :) I have used water to clean my engine head/valves, but the way I did it was to warm up the engine, pull off the air filter, rev the engine to 3-4K rpm and then spray carbonated water from a bottle into the intake directly for a few seconds. The engine doesn't sound happy when you do that, but afterwords it runs fine again. Still, that is a quick-fix only, until you have the time to take the engine apart and clean/inspect thoroughly.

You don't need that much water. About a cup or so should suffice, administered with a spray bottle into the air intake. Should be a job measured in minutes, not hours.

I haven't even owned a lawn mower in 20 years but still loved your videos, as always, keep them coming!

Farm, you do so much effort for each video, it's amazing. Thanks again.

In doing this process, the steam is what cleans the combustion chamber. Every time I’ve seen this done, the engine was fully warmed up and small amounts of water were poured in periodically (not constantly fed for extended periods of time). The cylinders have to be kept hot for this to work. The engine got way too cold in this video and the water was not fully vaporizing when entering the chambers. This is why some started to make its way into the oil. I would encourage you to try this again, but instead of a constant trickle try adding small amounts by hand 3-4 times-giving the engine time to warm back up in between.

I could watch these videos all day

Im shocked Project Farm doesn't have 10+ Mil subs. His testing is second to none. I trust him more than my own mechanic!

Mower engines are tougher than you think. Simple engineering. Great base for these kinds of experiments. My last lawn tractor that I purchased used) ran fine for over 25 years because I took care of it and used Seafoam in it.

Excellent test! Antagonists could argue that lubrication failure could affect results-negatively. But results showed improvement! I used water injection for octane improvement in the old days.

My grandpa did this with water back in the 80s' to clean out the carbon on my mom's 440 in her 69' RoadRunner

Well I'm just gonna say befor I see the results the seafoam is definitely easier to use lol

YES!!! I am ASE certified through college and hands on, and this may sound crazy but standard practice taught by the engineers is that AFTER the seafoam the same amount of water needs to be introduced the exact same way (use 1ltr bottle with a little hole in the lid to spray), and the water actually is more abrasive and breaking off any remaining deposits that the seafoam has eroded. The water is actually the main catalyst to removing deposits as the seafoam is to breaking the bond of deposits. Through the engine performance course a student was introducing the Seafoam through the brake booster line by SLOWLY pooring it in and accidentally sucked too much in at once and hydrolocked the motor, BENDING A ROD! so the spray method before throttle plate done in another vid is MUUUCH safer!!! GOOD STUFF!!!

Thanks for all the many hours of work you do for these test , it is informative and why the majority of us subscribe ! 👍👍

I watched this when it was posted. I just happened across it, I had to skim through it again. The video kist cracks me up. Sometimes the learning process is brutal. For all of us. All aside. Water does do a great job of cleaning carbon from a combustion chamber.

I'm a big fan of the channel & just wanted to toss a quick comment out. This info comes via my father, who was a big name in auto racing back in the late 50's and before that an instructor for the Air Force just after WWII in internal combustion aircraft engines. His highest qualification was in the Pratt & Whitney R4360. The history of using water in ICE's is long and storied, and much of my dad's knowledge came front USAF research regarding the use of water/water methanol injection. The first time he guided his very skeptical son through using water in an engine, it was accompanied by this: "Son, this car has been driven for years around town on short trips. This has caused it to get so loaded up with carbon that it's not working the way it should. When you dump a large quantity of water in a hot engine, the water soaks into the carbon, turns to steam, and blows the carbon apart. Once the water cools the engine down, it won't do any good. Once the engine is good and hot, manipulate the throttle to keep the engine running and DUMP A QUART OF WATER DOWN BOTH BARRELS OF THE CARBURETOR AS FAST AS YOU CAN WITHOUT KILLING THE ENGINE (it was an AMC 343 V8 and only took maybe 8-10 seconds)." I understand that much of the advice about using water to clean engines has been to feed over a longer period of time. However, executed as my father instructed it is effective and does not contaminate the oil. I run a performance sportbike equipped with water injection and have never had oil contamination. The rate of feed is critical. Water injection is far slower than in your test, and cleaning is faster but of VERY short duration. Thank you so much for your good, unbiased and scientific testing.

the more i watch the more i like-very thorough very easy to watch no tricks--the lubrication from seafoam and marvel in the oil and gas of mowers equipment and vehicles used on a regular basis wont rust freeze or built up smeg we used to call it--but your method is why the mower doesn't blow up great effort thanks again

you are supposed to use a spray bottle so the water is misted, that way it has a chance to be heated to steam. not just dump water in like that

The way It works is with the engine at operating temp rev it to about 2500 Rpms add a burst of water. The water cools the carbon deposits on contact breaking them free from the engine surfaces. You don't run the engine on water constantly. It needs to be added In short bursts To allow the surfaces you cooled to heat up agan.

You sir, are a Gem. I am certainly going to look into the steam/mist/atomizing water induction with varying high rpms while at full hot temp to de-carbonize my engine. I have a lifted 2005 4x4 Lariat with the (I'll try to say it without cussing) um, "fickle" 5.4L 3 valve engine. I am very appreciative and thankful for all help and insight I encounter that helps me understand my truck better, as it is indeed an uphill battle strewn with obstacles of all sizes, to say the least. I really just wanted to extend a thank you, Project Farm, for ALL of your work that have done, and all that you will do in the future. Better understanding, un-biasing, belief correction, and insight into the inner workings of my own vehicle are some of the many things I've gained from your efforts, sir. Im always wanting to learn, and always thinking is a state of mind I try to remain in. I've been serving as a heavy mobile equipment mechanic(I work on cranes) since 2009. Thank you for being one of the things that helps me in becoming a better mechanic myself, both for my personal vehicles, and work life. V/R Ryan

Thanks for everything, really appreciated!

I think Seafoam won this one, for the amount of time and substance used. You can't rule out the cost of the extra fuel that was needed with the water treatment.

Great video. I also did what you did on a 2015 Kia Rio and let the intake slowly suck water in, unfortunately i bent the connecting rod. I later discovered that this was due to the intake manifold design of the vehicle, some of the water was getting into the engine and the rest started pooling on the bottom of the intake. I did a snap throttle and all that pooled up water go into the engine all at once hydrolocking it. I have done this water trick for the past 25 years and never had a issue but like you said you always run the risk of damaging the engine.

Truly enjoy your videos. Very informative

Great topic! As a wrench and smog tech for 18 yrs before switching careers. A poor mans trick on NOX failures on smog was the water in the intake trick. Definitely works as I always saw a substantial drop in NOX confirming carbon cleaning and hot spots in there gone. I will say, I believe thered be better results with applying water and varying throttle. My program was to rev up, pour in and continue applying throttle as rpms dropped. Usually just 4 or 5 quick blasts was all it took. Seafoam? I always chose to use GM top end cleaner for the real job of top end cleaning without pulling heads. That stuff is amazing. I prefer to use Techron gas additive over the years on every oil change to keep it clean in the 1st place.

my guess is the engine was too cold from the water, this process uses the steam from water to clean the cylinder head.

I've been a master ASE certified Tech since ASE's inception, as well as a certified Honda instructor as well a member of several major factory sponsered racing teams. With over 45 years of wrench twisting under my belt, I would never have tried any kind of injection, water, MMO, or seafoam on an engine that had such low compression. A simple wet dry compression test would have shown that the rings or piston and cylinder were worn and that the engine had excessive blowby. Even with any kind of additive if it cleaned off the carbon, the risk of having small pieces of carbon getting blown past the pistons would have caused scoring and possibly even more damage. Also, using a small engine is not an accurate test. When water is added to an automotive engine, the intake manifolds are heated either by coolant or exhaust circulation so the water is evaporated into steam prior to entering the combustion chamber. Later model automobiles, especially those utilizing direct injection systems have a major carbon buildup problem. Even to the point of requiring removal of the cylinder head(s) to clean off the carbon. I have successfully used Seafoam in the fuel system to clean the injectors but don't expect it to clean off tens of throusands of miles of carbon buildup acquired by using the lowest priced fuels you can find. Techroline was desigened to be used in every gallon of fuel for long periods of time, and it does work, but it is not found in lower grades of fuel, so it will cost a few cents more per gallon. Adding it to your fuel as an additive would require that it be done with every fillup. There isn't a single item on the market that will de-carbon an engine with a one time treatment. Carbon buildup is the result of an incorrect stoichiometric Air/Fuel mixture, which is virtually unattainable in any variable Load/Speed engine, although engines are designed to come as close as possible to the ideal ratio of 14.7:1. Under hard acceleration or heavy loads, the ratio drops from 14.7 parts of air to 1 part fuel and there is less air and more fuel entering the engine and without enough air to completely burn the fuel the excess fuel turns into carbon buildup. It's a battle vehicle owners and drivers have been fighting since the invention of the internal combustion engine. How to achieve greater power with less fuel consumption and fewer emissions. If anyone can figure it out, I'll guarantee threre are dozens of manufacturers looking just for you. Great video by the way. I hope it saves someone from thinking that a blast of water into his old worn out engine is going to bring it back to life. I'll bet even after you got everything all cleaned up, it didn't run one bit better than it did before.

ProjectFarm, thanks for the great videos! I’m sure you’ve heard it quite a few times already but I would recommend using a spray bottle and misting the water in or injector nozzle with a container connected to regulated air to pressurize the water to be able to mist it. Also what temperature was the water? I use hot water to clean carbon due to the fact it will not cool the combustion chamber as much. The reason a blown or leaking head gasket cleans so well is that it is heated coolant and steams it. I guarantee with a spray bottle with hot tap water will provide drastically improved results. Thanks again for the great videos!

I remember my Dad doing this a lot at the shop and how much fun it was to ride in back of pickup at night and all the sparks flying out of tail pipe 😊

A sick lawnmower with an Ivy!

2019. and still love to watch his videos

I highly recommend redoing the test with atomizing the air to some degree Great test overall!

My father showed me this trick in new Mexico after driving from Tampa Florida. A hot V8 Chevy with 4 barrel carb. Revved the engine opened secondaries and pint at a time, blasted all nasties out the side pipes of my El camino. No water intrusion. Just a large tumbler of ice water... 1979.( He was a master mechanic in the army) rest in peace.

awesome video! I didn't think a lawn mower engine could be cleaned with straight water. Steamers is what they use in Europe. like a little carpet cleaner with a nozle

I am impressed with your videos. Besides the smart as comments from people you do your tests systematically and with honest results.

First of I have to say I love the way you try and be as fair as possible. I really like your stuff! I was first told about the water treatment 55 plus years ago and have used it many times over the years. I get the engine up to operating temperature and have about a quart of water ready. With the engine running at a fast idle I run the water through as fast as I can without stalling the engine. Once the water is gone I shut the engine off. After the engine has cooled right down I start it up and rev the engine up and down about ten times or more until the carbon quits coming out. It works great On cars trucks and tractors but I must admit I have never done a lawn mower lol. The idea behind it is that the water gets into the carbon and breaks the carbon up. The cooling breaks it free. Starting it up after just blows it all out. Anyway you did it one way but the principle did not add up to me so sadly it didn't work out. Maybe try it out the way I do it. Thanks for all the stuff you do!

The sheer premise that steam cleaning metal is better than detergent or ethanol is so INCREDIBLY outlandish.

Looking at all these Types of products. If your going to clean the cylinder head of a lawn mower. It's a lot easier to take the head off wire brush and a scraper. Be quicker and cleaner. At least you won't have to run the engine for a couple hours and drain the oil 3 times? At least cleaning it yourself you know you got best result. Good video tho mate ;)

To be honest with you, from what I have observed, I believe that the carbon deposit that was on the top of the head was transferred to the head of the piston and the one valve. If I had an engine that needed to be cleaned. I would choose to use an engine cleaner to do the job and forget about using water.

I haven’t read any comments (yet) and about half way through video. I keep thinking though … When using water … Seems to me that a step was missed. Idea is steam. Steam is what’s gonna clean. You would have to keep an eye on engine temperature, making sure that when engine temp dropped below let’s say 200F or so, water feed is stopped. This would also ensure the engine doesn’t hydro lock by accident. Great vid!

auto repair 7 years experience MANY types of repairs. Always AMAZED @ blown head gasket repairs - the piston & valve heads were: like new looking so i concluded water or water w/antifreeze ? DEFFINATELY & ALWAYS caused the total removal of carbon(j whatever else it is) of the cylinder's pistin crown & valve heads

this was a great video. I really appreciated the work you put into this. I truly believe the water must be very well atomized, but still be introduced into the engine at a rate fast enough to clean the engine, but not so much water so fast that you can hear the engine run differently as you could hear in this video. I would suggest using a few ultrasonic mist makers to very effectively atomize the water. I would think you still need plenty of water entering the engine at a sufficient rate for steam cleaning to take effect, so, If it were me, I would start out at like 3 or 4 ultrasonic mist makers and rout the mist to the carburetor inlet. Also I would still run a full gallon through. Is there any way you could try this for another video?

Great going guy, now everyone knows Gliddens secret paint formula!!!

My friend , Harry, an I studied adding propane conversion added to gas carb on 350 Chevy. We played with water injection too. We ran a small copper water line across intake, but we didn't drill hole small enough, until I got really small drill bit from jewelry store. Hole so small water wouldn't flow without vacuum pressure drawing into running system! It helped lower temperatures too!

Whenever I used water for this I put it in a very weak, cheap spray bottle, about 1 - 1 and 1/2 cups of water over about 15-30 mins (depending on size of motor) for that little mower I'd use about 1/2 a cup of water over about 10-15 mins, making sure to mist it, then again, now that I have money I tend to use seafoam, mostly used the water back when I was dirt poor, it worked, only costing around $1 for the spray bottle. EDIT: BTW, love your videos, and love the way you handle your testing, as objective as possible while taking into account how the people in the comments recommend doing things.

Project Farm, for the question you asked at the end, "Would you use water to clean deposits in the engine", I have, but never had very good results with it compared to a volatile liquid like Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil. It's true, water can have really good results, but the thin line between positive results and failure is too narrow for me. From what I've witnessed, it's not really water that's doing a cleaning, it's steam, and to get the right balance between pouring water/creating steam, you run the risk of hydrolock and water mixing with the oil. Now, hydrolock is a risk no matter if you're using a solvent or water, but where something like MMO, Seafoam, B12, or Gumout can safely creep into the crankcase and intermingle with the oil, water can't. And a solvent treatment, unlike water, is not really dependent on temperature. You don't have to worry about whether you're misting or pouring, or whether the temperature inside is enough to create steam. In fact, I've had the best results from pouring MMO or Seafoam straight into the spark plug wells, sitting overnight, bumping the ignition to spray out the excess, putting the spark plugs back in and running it rough for a bit before changing the oil. You really can't do that with water. (You could, but your motor wouldn't be very friendly to you afterward.)

Things that can survive a nuclear bomb: cockroaches, ants, lawnmower...... 😆

Wow! Thank you for reading the comments sir! I really love your channel and the way you go about things. Very impressive 😅I appreciate that you did the water test I recommend 😅

I like the non shoutiness in your voice of these older videos.

Used water many times, but never over the span of hours. My dad (certified mechanic for Chrysler back in the day) and I started doing this in his old company car, which he never ran hard, mostly constant highway miles running maybe 10 over the speed limit. There would always be lots of carbon buildup over a couple of years. We would use a couple of Coke bottles worth of water and just pour sips in as the motor could take it while throttling the carb. as needed. The whole process took only 10 minutes of non-continuous feeding of water. The difference in power afterwards was quite noticeable to the "seat of the pants". I remember seeing all the "smoke" coming out of the tail pipe (as a kid), :-) We never changed the oil after and never had a problem. This may be due to the relatively small amount of water, for a short time, mostly blown out the exhaust (steam). Super impressed with your testing by the way, interesting and very appreciated!

It's as old as the hills to use automatic trans fluid to keep carbon at bay, as an old gasoline engine trucker we always put AT fluid in the gas tank, it lubed everything . This test you did works because of the cool liquid is what breaks the carbon off the hot parts. However not to many took the engine apart.

Nice work. Good info, keep up the good work buddy

Holley used to make a water injection kit for cars. When I was a kid I put one on my Ford 390. It helped with pre-detonation by keeping the temps lower in the combustion chamber. Controlled by manifold vacuum, when you romped on it lower vacuum caused a spray of water. It seemed to work as I remember. I still have that car, 64 Galaxie 500XL.

When I was a kid, we called the water thing a Kentucky valve job.

In the leaded fuel days, we used to see carbon buildup to the point of causing knocking. Similar sound of rod knock. We would slowly pour a glass of water down carb., and shut off engine to let steam loosen, then restart, and repeat until knock went away. I have not seen this since lead has been removed from gasoline. The amount of carbon shown is harmless.

Thanks for putting in the work to make this video. It proves one thing. Time is money. I can't believe people will waste 2 hours of their lives to save 10 dollars.

Thank you for helping me through a tough time

I think since the head was off, just clean it by hand.

Used diesel trucks in my work, had a fuel strike for a month. So I added 1/3 diesel to my 1800cc petrol engine, having a adjustable SU carburetor, ran it. 1800 rpm idle. Rebuilt engine later, the head was bright, clean, no build ups. Diesel cleaned it.

Used to dribble one 10 ounce Coke bottle of plain water through the carb of my older cars just before oil changes. Never seemed to hurt the engines, did seem to "blow the carbon out" as my dad used to say. Good videos!!!

Oooh boy, those jars full of mayonnaise you pulled outta that poor thing sent shivers up my spine. I wonder had a car head gasket blow right after I spent months fixing it up after a wreck learning from KZfaq as I went, seeing that took me back.

I think this was very interesting to watch and you’re very creative in creating makeshift devices as part of your testing. I think the gallon of water was excessive. A sprayer bottle might provide a better result as the mist droplets should convert to steam faster than droplets of water. Overall I think the result was very encouraging and would definitely try this on my car.

They used to sell "water injection kits" in the 70's & 80's. The cars back then had a lot of problems with pinging (premature ignition). It cooled the combustion temps. It would fog water on hard acceleration/ more wide open throttle. You could also add alcohol to the water. Was very effective.

Hey there, how are ya? Staying healthy & safe during these crazy times I hope. 1st off thank you so much for your very knowledgeable videos & views of the many different types of products used by all of us!! Thanks also for your time & money spent on performing these tests. Very much appreciated!! As for what another viewer has said.. Seafoam would be my choice. I couldn't afford too, nor chance ruining my engine with water. Plus the time to set up that contraption. I must add in which ALL of YOUR contraptions are some serious MAN-GEN-NUITY!!! Keep up the great work!

I have added water to my engine many times and would do it again if I thought it would need it. Normally though it's a quick process. Wild revving the throttle give the engine a quick slurp of water two or three times. The science is that that cold water it's that hot combustion chamber causes an explosion and blast the carbon loose. But the engine has to be hot whereas the way you did it obviously the engine was cool down as you trickled the water in. I have torn down motors with lots of miles on them and found the combustion chamber and valves to be surprisingly free of carbon. Quick simple and you don't get water in the oil. Love your work.

Helping the public do the stuff we wish to see thenks project farm

Retired GM Technician and consultant. When I supercharged engines I added water injection.Water in a engine done right can be a good thing Small amounts (mist) It cleans very well. To this day I'll boil a cup of water and VERY SLOWLY pour it down a carburetor or throttle body a little bit at a time .This is done with the engine running . The biggest probeblem with to much water in a engine is it's heavier then oil or gas so it is on the bottom of the oil pan where the oil pick up tube is. If you boiled the water first on your test you would have had better results

Like other viewers I enjoy your painstaking detailed investigations of various products and appreciate the time and effort to disassemble and reassemble machinery in order to illustrate the process/progress of a treatment. I might suggest that when injecting water that you do it as a fine atomized mist or from a steam tool. The amount of water you were inserting was way more than the engine could process, made obvious by all the mixing of water into the oil. I had seen for myself on an old Ford I had and was told by an uncle who ran an Esso/Exxon station for a number of years, how a customer whose car had a coolant leak into a cylinder had shown the valves, the head and piston top to be clean right down to bare metal. I believe the water introduction has to be slight in order to not adversely affect combustion chamber temperature otherwise you do not get the benefit of true steam cleaning. I use a handheld steam cleaner with the steam directed in after the mass flow sensor on my '99 Tahoe, through the hole that the PCV air is drawn out of. There is a drop in rpm which is brought back up to the high idle speed that I do this at. I have a homemade tool for holding the accelerator back while I hold the hose up to the port. I can only guess how much effect this treatment has as I am not wont to pull a head off for inspection. It has not caused any lack of performance and at 344 K plus it is running very nicely. I have run steam into my mowers and did not get the oil like what you had. My steamer is a Perfection but there are other brands on this page. The capacity on mine is 8 ounces and I do the car treatment in blocks of three. www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=perfection+steam+cleaner

I miss these old videos. Don't get me wrong, I still enjoy your newer videos, but these older mower test related videos were my favorite