You have come a long way since the dragon, and this old truck is right for you. It has the patina you like, and you can put a weathered logo on the doors for your channel to match. These are very simple wired trucks so making everything work is not too hard. I would also make sure the brake proportioning valve is not stuck while the engine is out. Might want to clean out the vent tube on the diff. so you won't lose you pinon seal. Good video!

I was a mechanic for 40 yrs I love watching novices fumble through and learn as they go 👍

Ran when parked, only needs an oil change 😂

Finally some real ford content. These old FE engines has so much potential for some real horsepower and torque. Very underrated engine.

CT- Ceaseless teardowns

Perhaps you’ve already commented on the following. If so, I missed it. Will we see the completion of the VW bug anytime soon? Thanks. Your videos are quite enjoyable.

Excellent video CT :) , yes say 360 FE from 1968 Ford F250 pickup definitely had better days on motor also thick sludge plus all when took apart told story and shock me too ! Also tiime gears are metal in 1975 when replacing on stamp from dealer and certain aftermarket parts used nylon plastic ones ! Also blue Torque Converter is factory Ford yes and looking forward more videos too soon CT also be interesting to see!

Tear down is easy, finishing a project is hard.

My personal preference is using a carb plate for engine removal.

Listen to Darren and don’t take it apart. And listen to your brother too. Sounds like they both have good advice. Headers are cheap and a good upgrade.

I’m a FE guy. That’s about all my shop does. Great engines. But that engine has been apart before. The cam plug on the back was dented from a hammer and the timing chain wasn’t a factory chain. And a felpro gasket on the oil pan

Let the air out of the front tires for ease of engine comp. Access. Also Harbor freight has the heavy duty step platforms.👍

Are you going to finish it? Did the swamp dragon get done?

Nice job. I love these kind of videos. An electric ratchet it really nice and they're about $20. They may not get everything to break free but they're great at getting bolts out once loosened. So much for Fleetwood Mac saying "You would never break the chain"

About 5 + years ago I bought a 1969 ford f-250 360 auto for 800 bucks. After adding new gas & a battery it started right up and drove it home. But sadly a year or 2 later i sold it because of lack of knowledge of how fix it but also because of extensive rust damage. Anyway i sold it for 1200 buck. But know that I know more I almost literally wanted to rip my leg off and kick my ass. Anyways thanks for keeping this truck from the scrap yard 👍👍.

When you drained the oil pan at the beginning of this, I knew what killed the engine. They weren't keeping up with the oil changes in this motor over the years. When you dropped the pan, it was on full display. They would run the motor and simply add oil as it burned it up and rarely changed the filter. You should use an engine stand, I was nervous watching you work on that motor while it's suspended by a chain. An investment in your safety.

Wow , what a hood ! Big enough to build a family home out of that 😊 The engine looks like submerged too. And this slime in it 😯 But you and Darrin gonna get this baby on the road again . 👍

I've got a 1987 460 and trans with 24k miles that runs great. Its in a motorhome I'm probably going to part out.

4:07 that rod you said what ever this does with c clip is your passing gear.

Great job ! TY

Great job man sad to see that engine was a goner but can't wait to see it up and running. You could always call her Big red lol up to you keep up the great work

Do you own a engine stand ? is this the first time you ever pulled a engine ? What is your plan for this truck and engine ,this is my first time visiting your channel ,get rid of that pan of oil before you drop something big in it, love the oil pan drop, the sludge is from never changing the oil just adding to it when it's low and the addition of water makes for that slop ,I've done this a hundred times or more and your bringing tears to my eyes

Someone was a pennzoil user and never changed the oil

Great video! You can not tell if oil is good by looking. Though you will hear people say "the oil looks good" all the time. You feel it. Feeling for gritty material..

Syrup oozes out….”that’s not too bad”….👀👀😂😂😂💀 awesome.

We want the VW beetle back

When I pulled the engine on my 79 dent side it was much easier to pull out with the transmission attached and separate them on the ground. I did a mild rebuild on an engine from a 67 Fairlane GTA and put it in there attached to the transmission already. A 390 pops right in.

Good morning here in Brazil, good evening, the work is top-notch, congratulations on your work, we are enjoying this work of creating the F100 truck, right, great, a hug from Lau Tapei

Have it hot tanked and rebuild it..

It's going to be very interesting when it time to put everything back together

Believe the 360 and 390 use the same block ! Run good but fuel milage is horrible ! Friend put a MSD capacitive discharge ignition and the engine with mild cam would start and run 1000% better ! Much hotter spark means easy starting during winter .

That motors probably going to need at least one new sleeve. You'd be surprised what else can be cleaned up though. For future reference, if a motor's stuck pop the valve covers off first. If you see push rods that look like these in this engine, don't waste the PB, mystery or time. Plus, even if you do manage to get it unstuck the quickest way you'd know if a valve is stuck closed is by removing the covers so they'd have to come off eventually anyway. I personally use a bore camera to look into the spark plug holes to check cylinder wall and piston condition.

I love a teardown!

Looks like it was running on moly EP and bacon grease lol. Excellent video!

If that's a 360, I wouldn't waste my time on it. This being said, still damn entertaining. Keep up the good videos

I had a similar truck years ago. I swapped to a 1972 351 Cleveland with an FMX transmission. Built a 1 piece driveshaft to lose the carrier bearing.

Can probably take a torch and go round and round on that flexplate starter ring - it will pop off - they're usually just press fit on there... you could order a new one or probably just flip that one backwards for fresh tooth engagement. There's videos on getting them to fit back on - torching it.

2:45 No, son, they didnt come from the factory with dual glasspacks. 😏

How are you? Regarding the 1965 VW, have you already started the painting process?

Hi CT, reminds me of when I was restoring mustangs with ford engines. They were easy to pull the motor and tranny together. I had a 67 coupe I was working on and the 289 was toast and most came in a box when I towed the car home from a farm pasture. I had two 70 mustangs too and one was a rust bucket and decided to scrap it but took all the good parts off to sell. The 302 was good so put it in the 289 with the right motor mounts. Bolted right up to the tranny and went to start it only to find all the wiring to the ignition was burned up. Found another one to pull out of a 68 for 15 bucks. Still didn't start till I realized i forgot to plug the neutral safety switch to the tranny. Vroom Vroom. 302 in a light car like that was so cool and sounded great with a new set of dual pipes.

Honestly CT, I could care less what you are working on…..or if you ever finish….sell it and move on….whatever. This channel is fun because you are a quirky and interesting “friend” with a great attitude…..plus I get my garage fix.

Just thinking, you may want to take the AC compressor off entirely next time so you dont lose a charge. I know this one didnt have anything in it but i was thinking in the future. I know some Fords you actually had to discharge and remove the lines and the compressor as well. I know gm you can pretty much just lean the compressor over to the side while leaving it charged up. Again just some fyi info for you. Love working on the old stuff, so much easier.

Epic loud exhaust and louder stereo that's how we did it in the 70s and 80s

"FORD", thxs for sharing...

Another project that will never get finished.

Nice truck sir.

You said it was gross but you kept sticking your hand into the slimy sludge XD

Nice truck but now I only have reruns for my 914 fix. LOL

Cool truck. Love the videos. Shame she turned pink again.

Those 360's we dead on arrival for some reason. Nothing you try will make them make any power. Find a 351 Windsor to put in instead.

That was one good truck, if Ford wants to know what to reproduce next. 3 speed on the fly, with a straight six.

One man´s job, just like me all the time.

Oil pan drop was excellent!

I'm working on my 1974 F 250 and my biggest upgrade is 2bbl efi and pertronix distributor conversation and headers,,,,, possibly A/C next year or so

At approximately 5:25... that was a factory ID tag for the engine. It'll have some basic stats stamped into it for the engine including the cubic inch rating, unless of course, the engine was modified after it left the factory or someone swapped out the tag to fool someone else. At approximately 17:15... automatic transmissions use a flexplate. Manual transmissions use a flywheel. What's the difference? By definition, a flywheel always possesses a friction surface for a clutch assembly. A Flexplate does not. The flexplate traditionally has no use for a friction surface. It should be noted however, on some modern designs, there is a friction surface built into a flexplate that is used for a parking brake. I don't know of any domestic built vehicle that uses this setup but I have spotted it in some foreign built vehicles over the last 20-30 years. I'll also note that at least on some of the Chevy Corvettes, GM designed some of the transmissions to incorporate a friction disc at the tailshaft end of the transmission for a parking brake as well. However, none of them should be confused with a standard use clutch system designed to shift gears. As for the teeth at the ring gear, what I saw was typical for a 50+ year old vehicle. The engagement gear at the Bendix on the starter will take some damage from smacking into the teeth at the ring gear over time and use as it's designed to... as it's supposed to be softer... but so will the ring gear even though the metal in the ring gear is supposed to be harder via heat treatment. What doesn't help is that unfortunately, engines tend to stop in the same couple of places when we shut them off at the key. The translation on that is the gears mesh in the same places on startup localizing the wear on the teeth in the same couple of places. As others have mentioned, an easy fix is possible if the actual ring gear can be removed from a flywheel or a flexplate via heat. All you need to do is carefully use a fine tip on a torch and heat the gear until it expands enough to be removed. Then you can reverse the gear or rotate it about 30-45 degrees on the original axis and reinstall it. Warning: be careful if you R & R a ring gear. DO NOT DROP THEM. If you do, it may crack or break when it hits the concrete thus rendering it unusable. My best advice is to not only mark the original location of the ring gear so you know where to reinstall it, make sure that you're fully ready to handle hot metal when you heat it up. I shouldn't need to say it but I will anyway - very thick and heavy leather gloves are your friend on a R & R. Peace & good vibes! - Max Giganteum

Some people have already commented on the best place to start on a tear down like this is with a trip to the pressure washer. As bad as that looks, chances are that it can be reconditioned back to a running engine. Won't know until you get it to a reputable machine shop that can evaluate its condition. Everything is fixable, just takes $$$.

What drive is your Milwaukee. Are you happy with it?

invest in a can of freeall For something like that. works great on those rusty bolts

Last chevy 350 i took apart even with this must rust took me an hour and a have to get to a bare block

Don't look the oil filter housing adapter, it's hard to find

Easy to get to the trany bolts when you got room

Are you building a shop truck project out of this bumpside Ford truck CT?!

sounds like another ct original - rock on

You should have put the engine on a stand for safe tear down…it’s a wonder you didn’t get hurt! Can’t keep running on dumb luck…one day it’ll run out. Skip the FE, get a 460 and drop in…done!

You got oil on the ground. Im telling Greta! Lol

I love the ford 360 i had one in a 78.4x4. Shewww that thing was a beast 4 speed 😂...

What was the swamp dragon frequency mentioned? Thanx

Hello sir love my ford truck my brand of trucks always

Damn, Mr. CT, this was a disgustingly sludgy oil... It didn't even want to run.. Interesting, but it seemed, when you removed, even the heads were bent.. Or is it just optical illusion? Mm, not much more to do with that engine without a major rebuild to salvage the salvageable. It's a good thing to learn, experience new situations and discover stuff.. or even play some forensic style research. Keep going, projects are waiting for you.. 😉

I believe. That the ring with the teeth can be taken off and flip around or just replace the ring itself don't know if its cheaper to buy a whole flex plate

How did that oil look so fresh on the stick? What a surprise when you dropped the pan.

nunca terminas ningun auto solo desarmas trastos viejos, PRESENTA ALGUN DIA ALGO TEMINADO

Transmission kick-down linkage

Honestly ……….start with a bloody good clean then you can see stuff! 😂

sou do Brasil gosto dos seus videos sou mecanico

Great vid! That’s some nasty oil sludge. Just be done with names and name it “pepto” or “pep toe”

Is this the beginning of another CT kit, or will this be the one that gets finished???? Who cares I go to your channel to learn how to dismantle different kinds of cars and trucks trucks..KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!!

Ah, the old FE 360. We said they had the power of a 352 and drank the gas of a 390, nobody liked them back in the day.

That engine is toast

As bad as it may look... based on what I could see in the video, in may be possible to completely disassemble, fully clean and reassemble this engine and get it running using a complete gasket set and some new parts. There would be a few minimum things that would need to happen to pull this off. First, complete disassembly without damage to any main components. Removing the pistons from the bores is usually the most problematic thing to accomplish but I've seen as bad or worse than this engine be done with success. If I had to, I'd mechanically remove as much corrosion as practical then I'd use electrolysis to remove the rest, even if I had to hot tank the block then submerge the entire thing in an electrolysis tank. Next after disassembly? You'd have to revitalize each of the parts which equates to a full cleaning. After that? Inspect each part for damage - they'll either be able to be used or they won't, based on obvious damage. Next? Mic each part for being on size and being true. Any part that is bent or warped in such a way as to be unrepairable is scrap by default. Once all that is accomplished, it's a matter of the results. If this engine was rebuilt as suspected and has limited or little to no wear, it might be a matter of hot tanking the block then simply putting it back together using most of the same parts that came out of it including the bearings. If all the main components are good, there's no reason that reassembly cannot be accomplished with a successful, running engine being the result. Machining might not be necessary at all. Yes, there are a few tasks that may need to be done such as grinding the valves and valve seats. The bores may need a super light hone to allow new rings to seat. Speaking of new rings, some parts may need to be replaced such as the piston rings, some or all of the valves and the valve springs. A new, complete gasket set is mandatory and many folks might elect to go with all new bearings even if the condition of the prior bearing set is good. Some folks may replace the oil pump even if the old unit checks out. A new timing set is mandatory as are a set of core plugs and most likely the water pump but that depends on condition - it might check out. Some of us could rebuild it though, so to me, that's a moot point. I'd get it to go either way. A new fuel pump is mandatory even if the old unit works - never trust the internal diaphragm unless it's replaced and you prove that out. What else? You'll need to go through the carb, alternator and distributor. After that? You should have an engine that can be reassembled and be made to run. I'm not including the radiator at this point but that too can be tested. Yes, there are some other parts that may be needed... parts for the distributor and carb or some soft parts like hoses and filters. Note that I wouldn't recommend just putting this engine back together with the current parts even if they all check out. I'm merely stating that such a thing might be possible. If the engine were mine, I would not only make the effort to find out the facts but I'd take the opportunity to make many modifications to gain more power and efficiency from it if it were viable. At this point, all I'm considering are the possibilities, that is all. The main thing I'm looking at is that an engine may look like a nightmare... but that doesn't mean it is. Sometimes, all you need to do is disassemble, clean and reassemble. Peace & good vibes to all! - Max Giganteum

Oh crap! That pan looks like it was never changed. Looks like it lot of metal shavings in there.

Hola buenas tardes. Sí señor, buena herramienta

wow! like it's composting itself

That's a Ford FE engine and you don't have an engine stand for the tear down.

Jesus, this was painful to watch....

Queremos ver evolution do porche 914 e o fusca etc 👍👍👍

I had a 1970 f100 my papa bought brand new had a 360 with 3 on tree and no power steering. My dad got it and put automatic in it with power steering and dual exhaust. Had 200,000mi never burned oil. Was grabber blue. Sold it like a dumba$$

Watch coldwarmoters tare apart a motor and freshen it up, could be numbers matching..😮JUST SAYING...

Poor engine !!!!😢

Nothing on the beetle in 2 months, mate! What's going on?😢😢😢

dannng CT. thats some thick oil crude oil lol ohh by the way i didnot feel that knuckle breaker ouch😮

I would find a later truck or pu that has 351 something and buy the thing. Should be some around. A wreck maybe and have a later engine and trans that has overdrive and just as much power or more.

To many damn projects

Just needs a service, if you had a time machine lol

Really dude put it on a old tire or something. Before you brake something you can't fix.

This motor back can be a very bad to the 🍗 motor it can run again I know it is very great motor I love to hear the motor run again l love old school American made

That engine appears to have never had an oil change and always ran with straight water in the cooling system.

are you going to dissect that frozen engine

I have a name for your truck. Clifford! I remember a cartoon as a kid. A big red dog named Clifford. Or in your case ClifFORD.

oil aka bad taco bell😁