The GX riser has performed exceptionally well and I've treated myself to a set of Gillo GTL-88 limbs, 70"/30lbs. Also now using a Beiter plunger and Zniper fall-away rest. The Cross-X Ambition 700 shafts proved to be best, cut to 28" and 1-3/4" standard Spin Wings fletched - their supplied small throat nocks all needed to be replaced with .098" large throat nocks. 18 strand BCY 652 fiber strings and .019" Halo serving for the "transmission". I use brass 1-1/2" and 2" diameter rods to create the riser weights with off-center mount ala Yost. Yost tab completes the kit. Life is still good so far. 👍

While the Galaxy Sear does look like a fun riser, it’s geared more towards hunting due to its compact size. For any serious competition, adults should be starting with a 25” riser as their first competitive bow, and building up from there.

@@Jan-is4jy while it’s possible as every manufacturer has their own slight variation on the IILF sizing, most are all compatible with each other. The most common issue I’ve seen with some users claiming limb fitment issues is due to the user over tightening the lateral limb adjustment set screws; this compresses the dovetail and effectively narrows the slot down making insertion or removal of the limb seem incredibly difficult. Backing the set screw off so that it’s just barely touching the side of the dovetail assembly almost always alleviates the issue. I personally never had any issues with limb fit on my G1 risers, so while I won’t say it’s impossible to run into an issue, I do think it’s highly unlikely.

They’re generally the same components, just used in different divisions with different approaches. 😎 There are some risers that are designed with barebow in mind though, with larger lower proportions to increase mass; those would typically not be used for Recurve (what you are calling Olympic) division competition.

This channel focuses specifically on the topics of Competitive Barebow archery under World Archery rules. While there is certainly overlap into other divisions and practices, it would take far too long to include detailed discussion related to them, especially when those other divisions are covered in great detail and quantity elsewhere. With that said, there are certainly many risers that could be used if crossing over to recurve; the key would be to stay away from barebow specific risers as the increased mass in their lower half will not lend itself well to balance in a recurve setup. You’ll notice that for the beginners watching, I already make this recommendation in the video, just for other primary reasons.

I certainly could have, but as time marches on, those specific models will have been discontinued, if they haven’t already been. The underlying point of most of these conversations is to look for key features and not get hung up on the specific model names or brands. (By presenting this way, viewers watching the video years from now will still find the content meaningful) Find the features you would like in a price point that suits your budget and just go from there. 😎

This is a tough situation as there are a couple factors involved in the decision; first, you mention petite, but how would you categorize her general strength level? (Weak, moderate, or strong?); some refer to themselves as petite because of their height, but physical strength is really the main determining factor in archery, not height. Second, what type of game does she aspire to play? (Indoor only? Target at 50m? 3D?); there is some influence on the decision based on how far she will eventually shoot. Caveat: It should be understood that there are some really amazing low mass 25” risers on the market today that even moderate strength beginners can manage just fine, and the field of beginners that truly HAVE to start with a 23” riser in barebow is actually pretty small. If at all possible, put one of these low mass 25” risers devoid of any added weights into the beginners hand for a few minutes and see if they can hold it out stretched with their bow side arm, even if only for ten or so seconds repeated two or three times; this will tell you quickly if it is something they can handle. (Many are surprised to see that they can, so going the normal route of a 25” riser takes over at that point) In those cases where I’m working with someone that is really, truly small in stature and weak on strength the advice would be to get a 23” riser with medium limbs. This gives a reasonable combination that should produce most of the benefits of a 66” bow with a lower overall mass weight, but allows for easy replacement of the riser to a 25” size down the road as bow side strength increases, which would make the bow into a 68” bow with those same limbs. (Albeit at a slightly lower max draw weight; fine for indoor games, but doesn’t work as well for Target or 3D) The downside to this approach is that there are less choices available in the 23” size, which often limits your options on either budget, or features.

In that price range, you may be better off with something like the Sebastian Flute NEO 25” riser; it is CNC machined as opposed to die-cast like the ideal. When you are first starting out these details may not seem important, but as soon as you start improving and increasing draw weight or gain the ability to sense the shot reaction ‘feel’ the differences begin to become apparent.

@barebowbasics appreciate it I'm not new to archery but have no clue about bare bow

It's for my 13 year old daughter who is as tall as my 5'3 wife already.

Riser size is usually based on personal preference, provided physical stature allows ; if she’s that tall already, she likely has the build and arm length for draw length (24+”) to hold a lighter mass 25” bow. That would normally be the direction I would recommend. (She may have to skip using any forward balancing weights for a little while, while she builds up greater strength in her shoulders. (Have her focus on deltoid muscle exercises)

It is a matte gray color.

I specifically don’t address this in the video because its very much a personal preference; both sizes can and often are made to work just fine for just about every beginner out there.

​@@barebowbasicsI would really like to hear more from you on this topic. A novice can't have a preference because they have no experience, but it's a decision that they MUST make when buying a riser.

​@@barebowbasicswhat about 23" riser? 5'9 height and 27,5"-28" draw lenght.

Generally, most beginners do fine with a 25” riser. The widespread availability also means more options for purchase, both new from a retailer and used from others that are looking to sell their unused bows. Only those beginners with very small stature need to even consider using a 23” riser. This means someone with a shorter draw length (less than 24” draw length, IMO) or very little strength in the shoulders for supporting bow mass.

See my reply above; with a draw length in that range there should be no reason the beginner can’t handle a 25” riser.