You do a really good job of breaking technical concepts into easy to understand explanations.

Wow AJ ! Your explanation of complex matters is superb !

AJ, I just subscribed to your channel, I feel like it is golf tech for dummies, your ability to explain this is superior in my book, I am 74 and shoot my age, just went from stiff flex to regular and this helped me get my bend, flex and shaft weight to the best for my 89 mph swing speed, thanks man, you are good at 'splainin this terminology, even an old man can do it!

Such an informative video. Even clarified Flex Codes. Great video!

Excellent explanation. Thank you for sharing!

...great insight on shaft particulars here !

AJ, big thank you. I now realize why things feel a little funky between clubs - because I ordered new product online and made club shaft length changes before discovering your channel! I am 6'2" and my WRF is 36" says I should play clubs +.5 inch. (I learned this from you!) Taking up golf again after a decade off (twin boys). Been playing again in covid - my 7-iron carries 160 yards 84 mph chs straight but ball flight is high. Question 1: Given I ordered my clubs at a store that doesn't build clubs, I assume they didn't do any fitting other than basics of length and lie. Taylormade Burner 2.0 (hardly used!!) Here is where I think I am at roughly... standard D3.5 added .5 inch + D6.5 standard grip 47 gms replaced with Jumbo XL Super Light grip 50 gms roughly = D6 So here is where I think I am at D6 ish - I can buy a scale and use an online calculator to confirm. But here is my question - the clubs at the time felt the best in the fit - BUT I guess I was swinging the standard length in store D3.5. But now with the extra length and changes, what swing weight or range of swing weight should I be working towards for my +1/2 inch irons? I was thinking to tinker and add weight to the butt end of the club to bring the swing weight down to back to around D3.5 as a starting point? See how that feels. I have 100 gms of lead tape arriving tomorrow! Or am I missing something? As for a performance check, I would like to see a more penetrating ball flight - as for feel, They feel ok, but my elbows got sore when I started back, I am on top of that now, after months of work on it. So interested in injury prevention too. Eventually, I will get properly fit, but want to gain more speed before then. So happy to tinker for now.

I did something similar. Also I've watched a bunch of videos on this topic, but no one addressed rebalancing the club... (swingweight, shaft weight, head weight, shaft stiffness). This is the first time I've seen someone get into the details... THANK YOU I had a spare stiff shaft (i use Reg), so I got it cut 1.5" at the tip as well as at the butt. In theory Driver went from.a D4 SW to B4. Not sure where i want to be so I'm starting at a SW of D0, which means 32 grams of the shaft head. With that much weight the shaft is more like and extra soft senior, hence why I also cut off the tip of the shaft. Now I should have a 42" driver, with a D0 SW and a Reg shaft. In theory lol... Can't wait to try it out. Also did something similar to my 5 Wood :)

Wow. Great video! I feel like I've been sitting in calculus class.

Great delivery of the subject, thank you..👍 I have a 2 Reg flex OEM shafts I am hoping to fit to a 7 wood and a 5 wood to create stiff shaft flex by trimming the tips now feel better about doing so after seeing this video.

Great video with rick of helpful information. Can you make a video on the change of torque when tipping and trimming also? Thank you.

Thanks for the share! Couple of things I have tried to figure: How would the spine react in swing? Is it the droop or load with the "plane" axis what matters? Would it be more beneficial to spine along the swing "plane" rather than vertical assessing with the club head pointing upwards. I have used laser light attached to the shaft just above club head (using fishing line for quick rotation) and glued the head when the oscillation isn't spinning circle but str8

I like your style

A.J. thanks for the clear explanation of tip vs. butt cut. Question: How does Shaft Torque effect its playability? I have noticed as Driver Shafts have gotten increasingly lighter (54g) it's torque has increased (6.0d). Where as old school (88g) Driver Shafts Torque (2.4d). Thanks!

What a great explanation and very detailed, no one else is doing what you do on KZfaq. So can i ask to be clear in my mind, if i butt trim a 45.5 inch driver by 1 inch, but then put on a lightweight grip 23grams compared to a 56 gram grip, it would make up for the loss of 6 swing weights and the shaft would play a tad stiffer, is that all correct? Sorry for the long drawn out question :)

You really made a complex subject easy to understand. If I am taking a raw shaft to a club maker, what would I need to tell him/her besides the overall final length of the driver? The raw shaft is 46" and I would like my final length to be 44.5".

Hey you have great videos and allway enjoy them. Ive been building my own clubs en fitting the for +-15 years from my own clubs for q school to some of my friends my question i recently reshafted a stadard callaway xr driver with a ping high ballance stif shaft from another driver.. The shaft was extracted by somone els Nd the grafite flaired nd had to be cut a inch and a half i put the shaft in and little lead at the bottom but in an extention at the butt of the shaft it now plays 44.5 with a swingweiht of D1. 5 and it was D1. 5 before wil the shaft play stiffer or the same becuase i put the amount of weight on the head foe it to be D1. 5 again

Thanks the amazing videos. I learnt a lot from them. I have a Tsi3 driver 45.5"' that I would cut to help me with accuracy. I tried few time to put my hands lower on the grip and I saw big difference. So, if my understanding is good, with a butt cut (where the grip is) the shaft will be a little bit stifness, but not that much ? Thanks again.

Thanks for the video. Great stuff and new subscriber. Settle a bet for me, are you Jim Furyk's brother?

Great video. If you tip trim, should add a tip weight to keep the same swing weight?

In new modern knowledge and shaft technology, Dynamic measurements replace Static measurements explained in this video. Modern shaft technology concern more on kinetics energy at impact, wobbling that rob power instead of focusing to the ball etc etc.. so we can say that Statics measurements obsolete already.

This video is great. Do you advocate playing the same shaft in driver and 3 wood? And if so how much would you cut from each end? For reference my driver is 45.75” and 3 wood 43”. I’ve just put the hzrdus green smoke 6.0 in driver and it’s perfect for my swing, and now I’m thinking I should try it in my 3 wood too.

I enjoyed this video.Do you have any idea how much tipping a shaft would change the torque. I heard that for every inch of tipping it reduces the torque by .5 degrees. I guess the only way to test that would be with a pure machine. Thanks for your insights on this.

Here is the one simple question Cut the tip an inch and extend the butt an inch- does this stiffen the shaft relative to its original state? This is my thought to stiffen wedge shafts a bit- or even 1.5” 1.5”

Your opinion please. What will most likely occur if you tip a shaft too much (say 1 1/2 inches) and then add that same amount as an extension on the butt end? Will the shaft still perform as originally intended or will the dynamics be ruined?

I've just gotten callaway rogue x regular flex or stiff. And I wanted them all one length, preferably wedge length. Would that be alright? would I have to adjust my lie? will it effect my loft? Isn't golf about your own game? They are our tools to the game, so I was wondering about these questions.

I believe your conclusion is that cutting a new raw shaft 1” longer than stock for a particular iron, will make the shaft PLAY softer, no matter if that particular shaft is relatively butt stiff or butt soft. For example: I had Dynamic Gold S200 shafts at 1/2” long then went to Modus 3 120 stiff at 1” long. I added a jumbo CP2 pro grip (80 grams) to restore swing weights back to about D4 (from E1 or E2). Also added a few grams of head weight to get to D4 since the grip was so heavy. I found that the Modus feel too soft and produce too much height and spin, loosing me 5+ yards per iron. My plan is to try a 1” long Project X 6.5 in my 7 iron and a 1” long Dynamic Gold X100 in my 8 iron to see which one feels better and produces a lower spin and trajectory. ( I do understand the shafts I just mentioned have different feels due to different butt stiffnesses) But it seems that the combination of 1” long, an 80 gram grip (counter weight) plus a few grams of lead tape on the iron heads make my current shafts play much softer than expected. Does this all make sense to you? Thanks, Joe (there is a lot of conflicting and confusing information on these issues on the internet!)

You dont understand EI profiles. You removed much more than an inch. You still have 10 points, but the data at each point is shifted 1". Area under the curve is how stiffness is ranked. You did get the frequency part almost right.

Hello sir Thank you for the video. I recently purchased a matrix white tie shaft and a senior flex. My son is a junior golfer has it in his driver and I was going to put it in his 5w. I am unable to find any of the tip trim instructions. Since I will be cutting a section off the butt end to get the club to the right size my question is about the tip trim. Do I understand correctly that if I have no trim versus say half an inch or 1 in the no trim would allow the senior shaft play more like a ladies plus flex? And lead to a higher launch?

Great video. I am installing putting together a 2 iron. I have a x100 dynamic golf shaft and the general tip info for a 2 iron is to trim .5 inch. I have a 2 iron swing speed of 114 mph. Driver is north of 120mph. What would you recommend on this tip trim? Thanks.

So I have an old r7 quatro driver i want to experiment with. I want to cutt it down to 40 inches. It's a reg flex shaft and the original length is 45". I play a stiff shaft normally and I have the weight to add to make it playable. My questions: would you cutt any off the tip? Maybe 1 inch off the tip and the rest from the butt? Or would it be best to just butt trim only to reach a stiff flex with a d4 - d9 end swing weight. Note: i would rather error towards extra stiff flex. Thx.

Hopefully you reply to this, in theory if someone accidentally ordered a 46 inch driver shaft but it was intended for their fairway 3wood and they wanted it cut down let’s say 4 inches, how would a length that drastic affect the specs/stiffness?

Question: Is there a matrix for tip-cut and butt-cut (at various increments) and associating to control. For instance, tip-cutting gives me more centered strikes and straighter shots. Butt-cutting doesn't.

AJ, do you have any data on graphite shafts becoming softer over a year or two as the coating and shaft fibers stretch and relax?

What is your best way to lighten a heavy hi-brid by 8 swing weights ? I have tried lead tape at but end .

you should make an updated youtube short

Question about the frequency CPM. When you look for the frequency aren’t you looking at a number at a length measured. If you take an inch off butt end then it has more CPM but also at a shorter length so the stiffness remains about the same. Compared to length

Great video I will add tipping is mostly done for tip deflection purposes so if a player is hitting it I have a groove low hard steeping will make the contact better with a driver 3/4” tipped is the average in a tour van mainly do to drivers just perform better 5mm high

ok, I'm convinced - shortening a shaft either way will always make it stiffer.

Great video, I Just purchased a stealth plus 10.5 driver with a HZRDUS RDX 60 extra stiff (6.5) and I want to cut it down and add weight. I have a question! If my swing speed is about 100mph, and its already an extra stiff shaft, won’t it play great because if the length is removed from the butt, it will maintain integrity? Also, is it better to trim a softer shaft or stiffer in your experience? I want to learn to really muscle it at around 43.5”, as the stealth plus does have som serious pop, i just want to learn to shot shape with it and have fun. I’m like a 10-12 handicapper, been playing for 2 years but I play a ton. Thank you very much!! Pete

When building a set of clubs, is it standard to have the same swing weight across all clubs?

1. Great video. 2. Get what your referencing about frequency, but I think you should not down play it too much, granted you emphasized the consistency aspect of it, but its obviously a great baseline measurement. , via, if we do deflection and bend profile, we still can end result the frequency to dial in a set. 3. The deflection example really nails home the point of weight addition if you cut the shaft. ..., seeing your excellent overlay example, the butt will raise the deflection, but raise it far less than the tip, and to get more deflection, after a cut, will have to add head weight. Plus nice to explain the flex numbers from a tip or butt cut. 😎👍 that was very informative. 4. Now I'm thinking, the industry needs a head weight to flex parameter. I'm a frequent golfworks guy, and love how they break down flex and playability factor etc. .... but obviously to really dial in something, we need a head weight to length factorbility measurable. Again, great video, took some good notes on it, .. definitely, supports my idea of cutting from the butt, and or finding the best flex and length that needs the least amount of material taken off. Seems, if your a below standard length guy, better get a flex less, just to cut back into your desired flex. Because, I'm a suggested .75 below standard guy, and no wonder when I was buying s , and get to cutting, I'm creating a even more stiffer profile than what fitted me. Now, I gotta figure out the maturation of head weight, flex and length. Lol.

Quick question, I just ordered a new tensei ck pro blue stiffshaft for my TSI3. The TSI3 plays at 45.5 standard. I asked them to cut it down to play at 45. I added 4 grams to the head weight to bring the swing weight back up. Went to hit it in the range and it the shafts feels way too loose. Almost like a regular flex. Would that be because when they cut the shaft, the cut from the butt end? Then I added weight back, making the tip okay softer than it usually does? Would it make sense to tip it like 1/4th if an inch to bring it back to its regular stiffness?

I had a question regarding trimming shafts for a reshaft, is there a way to reach out to you via email? Thank you! Love the videos

so are you saying you should always add weight when you are shortening a shaft?

So ....using that principal....trimming each end equal....keeps the shaft somewhat the same stiffness?

I just bought a callaway iron set and the shaft is TrueTemper XP 85 s300. But in find it too soft for me..I am thinking of tipping it. Can I take half an inch u think to make it stiffer or should I take an inch of it. I am only 5'9" so I dnt mind an inch shorter clubs. My driver clubspeed is 109mph btw. I usually hit my 8iron around 160yrds and now I lost 10yards on every irons with an even stronger lofted callaway 2019 Xhots. It is very frustrating. Please give me your expert advice on this. Thanks in advance.

I want to play my driver shorter but not lose feel of tip. Since I will be adding weight to head to maintain optimal swing weight is there a ratio of weight to tip cutting to maintain tip flex?

What is your frequency machine sir ?

Alright I would love to dive in the weeds with you a little bit on this topic. So these days club companies like Titleist and TM are tipping their driver shafts 0.5-1.0 as their “standard.” Yet most shaft manufacturers say no tipping on a driver. I was very curious to why this was different. So I emailed the club companies. Responses were basically the same- we tip them as a recommendation from our R and D department on what they believe will be “true to flex.” I say all that to ask you this.. Drivers are now 45.5 and up as the standard. Shaft manufacturers say recommended length is 45. It just came to me that these club companies are probably tipping because at 45.5 length they would actually play a little softer so they tip them to play the flex that was designed??? I hope that makes sense. Let me know your opinion and if you think I’m on to something, thanks!

I don't see anything inaccurate with the fact that adding weight to the head will decrease the frequency measurement. More weight on the tip will make the shaft relatively softer. The "average flex" actually doesn't seem useful, butt trimming isn't making the shaft "softer".

Whe e are you located

I don’t have all day.

Like 👍, how do I get in touch thanks

Great video. However the information regarding frequency is not totally accurate as you are dealing with a real wobbler. The shaft should have been floed first in both the strong and weak planes. Just my 0.02. Keep up the good work

I have a taylormade m2 driver. It is 45½ stiff graphite. What do i have to do to cut it to 43 inches?

If a shaft has been “soft stepped “ how can this be reversed?

Awesome vide but the background music is so distracting 😶

Whooo...admittedly, I ain't very smert...but I'm having a difficult time wrapping my head around this! I comprehend each test on its own merit. What I'm not understanding is why you think bend profile is a more accurate stiffness measurement than frequency or deflection? I understand that for swing weight purposes...it may be more useful. But to make the claim that a shortened shaft is in ACTUALITY "softer" than the original length shaft flies in the face of physics! Just for the sake of argument. If you have a 40"-40 gram shaft. And you cut 1 gram worth from the stiffest end. Then added that 1 gram onto the clubhead (most flexible end)...would the frequency or deflection test show a softer or a stiffer flex than the original length shaft? My bet is on stiffer. If that's true...then the shaft is in ACTUALITY stiffer. of course...if you add a pound of lead to the clubhead it's going to feel softer! But that "feel" doesn't negate the fact that the shaft is ACTUALLY...in reality stiffer! Help AJ...what am I missing?

Enjoy your technical expertise. Not to nitpick, but your audio is bit lacking. The background music isn't adding any benefit . Your voice audio is too harsh. Could be your mic or the area you record in.

Get rid of the music. It's distracting