not a lot on the subject but there are a few articles that refer to it as the arming/shelby drop. Always nice to learn something new

Isn't it great how with a few adjustments these cars go from passenger cars to track cars. Your car sounds like a thrill to drive.

Lol.. yes I forgot to change it. Gives me extra hour in shop.

@@68mustangrestoration34 I meant the one by the garage door. Or is that something else?

Ah. That is a thermometer plus humidity plus time. I do not have batteries in the clock considering I have another clock on the wall...which is also wrong

Thank you , hope it helps if you are considering it

I am curious as I might need to lower it further. Did you simply use a cut off wheel to angle cut out 1 inch?? I was thinking that might be an option as opposed to ordering springs randomly ..I would love to get the wheels inside the fenders to get a lower stance. I am hoping to put widest tires all around not just wider in back

Yes I use a cut off wheel, but as I remember it half a inch on the spring give inch on the car .The coile on the spring is the same all the way, so it do not become more stiff by take som thing out

@@karstensetholsen5286 Ah. makes sense that as you remove material the spring will both shorten BUT will also collapse further considering some of the "spring" is removed. Good point , I will keep that in mind

So yes, 1 inch drop springs are shorter than OEM springs BUT be aware that your current springs will be a little saggy as they are 50 years old so brand new 1 inch drop springs may not give you another inch from where you are now but WILL be lower. As per your second question I had found an article that as long as you are 1 inch or less drop and are NOT on the race track you are fine with out shims etc. But with the drop as well as heavy cornering the suspension may take a ball joint to max. Be carful swapping springs, make sure you get a proper spring compressor.

Great question, i have a link to a great sire on what the specs or changes to alignment are for the Shelby drop hopefully they can use this info. www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/understanding-shelby-arning-drop-changes/29324

@@68mustangrestoration34 thanks for that great info. In dealing with the possible ball joint bind when corning hard, here is the fix for that. This will eliminate the binding on the ball joint.www.cjponyparts.com/ridetech-ball-joint-wedge-plate-streetgrip-3-hole-pair-1965-1970/p/12109520/

I bought the car in bad shape so never really drove it before the restoration so I cannot compare how it handled before the drop. All I can say is that the car handles very well now but I performed the drop to lower the stance more than I was concerned about handling. The only good news I can add is that you can always reverse a shelby drop by simply putting the upper control arm back into the origional holes.

Thank you for your kind words, and you are 100% correct, if you pause my video at 3:30 the template for 65 -66 moves the lower holes back to keep the caster the same, with 67 68 Shelby wanted to add caster as there was not enough from the factory. in fact i read it moves the caster 2.5 + This literally pulls the wheel straight when driving . maybe helped at the track but just a guess

@@68mustangrestoration34 Thanks, that makes sense now. Off topic, but what color did you paint your car? It's beautiful.

@@mikeroeder6339 thank you. that is accapulco blue

According to the information I have this modification is valid for any mustang from 1967 to 1970. Of course I would make sure first before proceeding. Make sure you use the Offset template for 1969 and not the ones for the 65 -66 mustang

Appreciate it, but no. I did some research before the drop to better understand why Shelby did this. Ford designed the car to oversteer so novice drivers would be less likely to hit things but it does impact how the car handles.

great question, the drop itself will reduce the height on its own, so you could keep your original springs. Some people do switch out the springs as they are over 50 years old and have become weak. So be careful if you order new as it will impact your stance. I assume you are still running the original engine (I6 or 289) as engine size will influence your spring choice as well

@@68mustangrestoration34 I will probably do the 1" drop springs as well. I will do some research. thanks

I all honesty I did not torque them, simply tightened them with a long ratchet. I am taking car in for alignment tomorrow, I will ask the shop if there is a spec on them.

you are right, good catch. I thought it was over steer but after investigation they engineered understeer so the rear would not kick out for the "average" driver. Who would have thought 40 years later drifting would be what we wanted all along. Thank you