And this advice is from the expert, only I,m not sure of what.

I was thinking the same thing. You can actually see the difference on the video. Yikes!

I came to the comments to say the same thing.

Good observation

Was it because the 1 inch spacer was not accounted for?

That looks like a nightmare to get right without a drill press-like accessory so you can be certain the bit is absolutely perpendicular to the beam. It's definitely a good looking mount though.

Wow this is good advice!

@@incognitotorpedo42 Yes and yes.

He went over the anchoring to concrete part in like, half a sentence haha

hi do you know of any resources regarding finger joint connections for mass timber construction by any chance?

​@Tom be careful burning the pesticide soaked wood! Probably char first, and soak past the char line

@Tom If I remember correctly, it's only the last 6"-8" of the end grain but not burned too much, cause that could weaken the end grain or cause it to crack, especially if you're going to drive any hardware through it with a metal standoff base. I guess if you burn it outside it isn't too dangerous, but idk if it's worth the risk of breathing that crap in

@Tom Actually, I've never seen the ends of posts charred in home or temple buildings. That doesn't mean it isn't done, though. The carpenters I worked with in the Ryukyu Islands dipped the ends of the posts in pesticide. All the charring I saw was on siding. So, maybe ask around a bit for more info.

That’s really smart. Isn’t the practice of burning to improve water resistance called shou sugi ban? I have heard a tip from Matt Risinger that if you prime the end grain, that helps to prolong its service life.

In My country we use tar to cover the wood that is in contact with the soil or concrete, also we use an aditive that is mix with cement and make the concrete water isolated

You need to get out more

That is correct.

I was just coming on here to make the exact same comment. Good catch

@@ShelterInstitute Then edit the video!

It sounds like if the damage was that bad, the tornado must not have directly hit the mobiles

Yes, the metal is too thin. The design is excellent, but the steel needs to be at least 3 times thicker.

​@@grc5618I was thinking that both of these designs showed look a bit weak..

Same here! Simpson 6X6 post ties. Wobbly as heck, so I've been considering corner braces. Did you end up adding corner bracing and did it help?

So you mean cut deeper by a half inch?

@@smolboyi yes

Thank you for watching! We’ve got a lot of new educational content and build series coming in 2024!

One idea is to drill a line of holes to the needed depth, spaced as close as possible and cut remaining material with the chisel. It's probably possible to do the same using a router, although depth might be problematic.

​@@tjurzyk you have a chisel that can cut deep into a 3/16" slot? Is it 1/8" thick?

The Makita 5402 or Skil Super Sawsquatch beam saw both swing a 16 5/6" diameter blade (414mm). Max depth of cut (with shoe square to the blade) is on the order of 6 1/4" (160mm). If the shoe is angled, the depth of cut would decrease accordingly, though that isn't relevant for this application. You could treat this like cutting a drop cut tenon - a couple of kerfs to define the edges, then (in this case) chisel out the wood between. I've never used the Makita branded blades, but Joe Miller of Fire Tower Engineered Timber has advised me that the Skil blades are the pick of the litter for these saws, and I took his advise. Be aware that these are 20amp saws, and you can easily trip a 15amp breaker if the blade binds in wet wood. Thankfully, they turn fairly slowly compared to a 7 1/4" saw. Mafell also makes some lovely stuff, but a (very) used 5402 (the old, gold-colored one, not the blue plastic 5402NA) was more within my budget. I got my 5402 cheaper than a Super Sawsquatch kit, which was all that was available from Skil at the time, and I would still have needed to acquire an 8 1/4" Skil, since I only had an old Model 77. I still need to machine a good replacement shoe from aluminum plate for the 5402 to replace the flimsy/fragile stock stamped sheet metal one, though - then it will really sing. Projects, projects... For a short tutorial on cutting a drop cut tenon with a beam saw, see Francis Barnett's video, here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z9SWh7Zjub2pmKc.html Francis has other good content on his channel, including kerfing joints to close them up if the initial fit-up isn't so great, and a bunch of basic timber framing joints. Worth a look. A Prazi chain saw attachment for a circular saw might also work, though some have complained about accuracy of cut. This may depend on chain grind and the individual user - I've never used one, so I can't say. There was an earlier brand which I can't remember at the moment (rats!), conceptually similar to the Prazi, but requiring a dedicated conversion of the saw (as I recall, only a worm drive Skil could be used). You might spot one of the old ones on ePay, CL or Marketplace or your local equivalent; they do still show up from time to time - I've seen two within reasonable driving distance of me within the past couple of years. You can use a jig (commercial or homemade) for a chainsaw to provide a shoe perpendicular to the bar. With a decent electric chainsaw, this would be a nice option for sundown use in a residential neighborhood - unfortunately, the nice 220volt Scandi or Japanese saws are pretty rare. Slow and steady, even with an anemic 110volt saw, would work in the right hands, with due care and a good rip grind on the chain. For DIY versions of such a shoe, look for fellas who are using a jig to cut half or full dovetails on cabin logs with a chain saw. There are some simple and good-looking designs out there. The DIY one posted by user "shinnlinger" on the Forestry Forum looks ace - basically two lengths of suitably relieved angle, bolted to the bar. Or, you could use a sharp hand rip saw (a large Japanese pull saw would be nice), along with a narrow chisel and patience. Hope one or another of these ideas will get you headed in the right direction. Your instincts are correct - bring the tool to the work, rather than the work to the tool.

It's not 3/16" thick steel. It's thinner than the kerf of a standard cross cut blade on a skill saw. You then use a hand saw to finish the job.

I was thinking the same thing.

Thank you!

The timber frame itself keeps the post stable. This hardware only resists lateral and uplift forces.

It’s way better to set your post 30” in the ground, so the load is transferred to the ground instead of the slab.

Simpson Strong Tie CPS Composite-Plastic Standoff Post Base

@@ShelterInstitute Thank you so much :)

The drilling and attachment would be the same, but the trouble with stone is that you are only attaching to one stone. Therefore you will not get the same uplift or gravity load capacity.

We’re making a video about this soon!

Additional question: in a building with posts around the exterior, plus posts in the interior of the structure, do you need to anchor the interior posts? or is it sufficient to anchor (for lateral and uplift resistance) to just anchor the perimeter posts?

Did you find an answer?

That depends on where you live and what type of 6x6's you use. Probably want to go with ground contact rated. You can also wrap them in plastic or seal them up with something. I recently replaced my fence posts. They had been out for about 40 years. The wood was fine other than right where the wood soaked in the wet grass, snow and mud. The wood off the ground was able to dry and was fine. Check your local building code.

If it is a load bearing column, it needs a proper footing.

Most are made of galvanized steel, some light duty versions are made of plastic.

Why wouldn't you?

Concealed Post Base

Also called a knife plate.

3 dry wall screws and it will last forever. Lol. JK.

@@supermo26 Right? haha

Wobbling at the top? Seems like a bad structure design, the bottom of post shouldn't wobble, or is it?

@@tranderrick The whole thing is wobbling, including where it attaches at the base. Just a single free standing post wobbles when attached with these.

Yes, Simpson Strong tie are code complying products, provided you are using the product correctly.