Vitor Gomes Greetings to you back from the UK and thank you for your kind words. My PayPal is simonrobb72@gmail.com but I would like to say that I never expect payment as I really enjoy sharing knowledge to fellow car owners. Any amount you choose to give will be greatly appreciated though so thank you and Feliz Natal e Feliz Ano Novo para você e sua família. 🎅

Icek Goldberg I bought it from FRF Volvo Swansea. The part number is shown on the box. Some main dealers won't sell workshop tools to a member of the public.

Think I got mine from FRF Swansea.

Bob McCann Hi Bob. The D5 glow plugs are probably the easiest around to change and if everything else is working correctly have a limited negative effect when they fail on the Euro 3 163. On the Euro 4 however, they are required for particulate filter regeneration so it's important to have a working set of plugs. Whichever engine you have, I would advise cleaning around each plug with brake cleaner where they enter the engine then squirt penetrating fluid in that area too. A couple of applications over 2 days or so before even attempting to undo them. Change them on a warm engine (turned OFF) and of course be careful. The plastic connectors can get brittle so try to pull them as close to the bottom not at the top near the wire. Have some duct tape on hand to repair the connectors if they do come apart, cleaning with brake cleaner first. On the plugs themselves, use a dedicated *6 sided* 8mm glow plug key or deep socket only. If you encounter resistance when undoing, don't try to unscrew them in one go, instead loosen a little then lightly tighten and repeat with extra sprays of penetrating oil in between and they should come undone nicely. Avoid anything falling into the glow plug hole. With the new plugs, apply a thin smear of copper grease to the threads. Copper grease is heat resistant and will help prevent future seizure. Only wrist tighten the new plugs. There's no need to use the handle of the ratchet when tightening. Hope that helps and many thanks for the supportive comment.

HI Bob, I have changed many heater plugs in Volvo D5 engines with no issues but, recently I got to the third one and it crumbled part with the slightest touch from a 1/4 drive miniature socket and tiny T bar. It had crystalised with some sort of corrosion. I tried everything to remove the broken off bit from inside but no chance. I ended up having to remove the cylinder head and take it to a machine shop.

+Michael Penney Before doing anything, get the code read as it could save you a lot of time.

@@sirobb 4 years later and still got the car - the issue with limp mode was a sticky variable vane turbo - I had it cleaned and reduced the problem. For a few months it has been stuck on my drive - it starts but stalls straight away - apart from the one occasion it started, ran then stalled again - Only difference was the weather was a bit warmer. The car is old but I want to try to fix it with my limited skills - worth £300 scrap but otherwise I reckon it has some life in it if I can get it going again - have not got the spare cash to leave it with a garage!

Yes, I know what it does and it's tapered both sides so I didn't focus on it because like you say, it makes no difference.

Slim long screwdriver wrapped in rag and soaked with carb cleaner.

10:39 9997015

Thanks very much appreciated pal

The diesel could be coming up body of the injector from a poor seal in the cylinder head or from a leak in the injector feed or return pipework.

@@sirobb thanks SiRobb

Ulrik Friis Jensen Externally, I soaked the tips/nozzles in carburettor cleaner then after installing them I cleaned them internally with a Liqui Moly Diesel Purge. Thank you for the support. 👍

On a D5, you just cycle the ignition for 10-15 seconds 4 or 5 times and that should be enough. Don't crank the engine over for too long either or you'll flatten the battery and create another problem.

@@sirobb is that gonna bleed the high pressure side as well?

Yes. When the engine isn't running, there's no such thing as a high pressure side though. The entire fuel system is one loop and the above method will bleed the whole loop.

@@sirobb OK thanks, I'll stick the battery on charge overnight and try it again tomorrow

No problem. Straight after turning the ignition on, put your ear to the bodywork near the fuel filler and you should hear the buzz of the in tank pump. If there's silence, you may have a dead pump or blown fuse.

The high pressure pipes mould themselves to the unique tiny imperfections of the injector connector so you return the injector to the same position for the best chance of a good seal.

Ok, i understand. I read somwhere that puting back injector to the same place(same cylinder) is crucial, otherwise u must code them. IT s True this statement?

@@panteaflorin6783 It has nothing to do with coding. Certainly not on the Euro 3 D5.

Thx so much. Great videos 👍

Lucian Octavian Simion Hi. Do a leak back test like in my video here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mMiBm66bz5zOmac.html

Thanks for the promt answer, a sun as possible i will make the test and i will let you know what is the result.

panuvat jiratjintana Have you got a blanking plate over your exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)?

SiRobb i'm not sure sir , is it normal if there is blanking plate over EGR ?

WD40 will probably do nothing over a long period of time. If you are fitting a new mounting kit including circlip, you can be as rough as you like on the old circlip to remove it. A slim screwdriver and pliers is enough for me to take one off. ,

@@sirobb Thank you for your answer. I bought circlip pliers I think it's gonna be useful. Btw what's the torque for new clamp bolts? Manual says 13 and 28 nm, can't find which one is right...

What manual are you using which gives 2 different torque figures?

@@sirobb This one online www.volvohowto.com/volvo-s60-v70-torque-specs-specifications/ "Fuel injector - tension mounting: Torque to 13 Nm Injectors D5244T/T2/T3: Torque to 28 Nm" Idk what they mean with "tension mounting" and "injectors" Although my manual says 13 Nm. Just wanted to make sure of that as it seems pretty low?

Ignore tension mounting. D5244T is 28Nm D5244T4 is 13Nm

Mike Davies Main dealer parts with no discount can be expensive but you can find dealers with eBay accounts who sell genuine parts very cheaply and with a little practice searching, you can find equally high quality and often identical parts in the aftermarket sector.

SiRobb cheers pal il let him know

Yes and still works perfectly to this day.

@@sirobb Why don't you use them for your car?

I fit new kits to mine because reintroducing the spring force into used injector clamps is a pain in the arse. The end result is the same.

This is a Euro 3 so as long as the class is matched, no further coding required.

@@sirobb so can I take injectors out a 2002 s60 and put them in 2010 xc90 and thank you for reply

@@johnmcguinness7116 Different injectors so not compatible in any way. 2010 is Euro 4 so may need coding. 2010 is a bit new for my speciality.

David G It's surprising that you thought I was white when you consider that my brown hands have been appearing in my videos for a long time. 👍☺️

SiRobb trueee hahaha

Totally agree, I always thought this guy was about the same age as RobertDIY. My world is now a lie.

Is it a Euro 3 D5244T? The tool is only compatible with that.

@@sirobb yes bud I actually managed to buy one from the dealer was hard work though. Dude do you know where the fuel pump relay is on a 2002 d5 (v70) can not find mine for the life of me. Looked in all the "known" areas. Thank you for your time. Hero

No mention in the owner's manual?

@@sirobb yes but it's not where it says it is. Apparently under neath the steering column next to obd port next to the front fog light relay.

@@stephenfoster4255 Oh right. I don't know then, never needed it. What do you need it for?