We have been wrapped with the output, especially at night. It definitely does more work up there, alot more. Particularly in anchorages tucked in close to a beach where the wind would just pass over too high for a lower mounting. But, we are yet to find the source of the knocking sound... or try eliminating the hum. We'd really appreciate any suggestions you may have - and will be trying them too! Give it a Like, Sub, you know what to do :-) Thank you for watching

Hi, from an ex submariner, we used mount all equipment on Resilient Mounts to stop noise and vibration transmitting to the hull. All the best and Fair winds John

I would adapt a couple of smaller rubber engine mounts to try and isolate the wind generator. Make sure they are rubber and not urethane as rubber is better at absorbing harmonics like what you are experiencing. You can also get motor mounts that are interlocking and heavy duty enough that should never fail.

Cool , now you can trim the trees and the sea grass at the same time going into your secret spot . Lol

I can't believe that little propeller thingy generates enough wind to move that boat around very well. Maybe locating it lower so that wind blasts more directly on your sail will work better for you? You sailboat fellas come up with the most amazing newfangled gadgets. Good on ya!

Fascinating stuff. Keep the interesting stuff coming

With the turbine so high up, you escape the whooshing noise of the blades spinning through the air. But the hollow mast amplifies the bearing sound like a speaker diaphragm. Despite your rubber mounting pad,the mounting bolts are still allowing the vibration through as they are metal-to-metal contact. I would suggest using a strong engine mounting block which has no direct metal contact. The lower frequency knocking sound to me is a mystery, but can certainly be resolved as it is not normal. You will not remove all sound, but can certainly reduce it. Shut it down at bedtime for a quiet sleep. I respect your desire to experiment and deviate from the norm, and good luck with reducing the noise pollution.

Great video! First to clean up after using 5200 use isopropyl alcohol. That’s regular rubbing alcohol. Buy it at a pharmacy for a buck per bottle. It cleans off fresh 5200 before it skins over. After 5200 dries nothing gets it off. Isopropyl and lots of paper towels. On the wind Genny, you got a lemon send it back.

As others have pointed out, the mounting bolts will defeat the rubber vibration dampner sheet between the plates. The bolts will transmit the vibrations betwen the mounting plates. So you need to get rubber bushings around the bolts where it passes through the plates, (so the bolt is not touching the sides of the hole) and rubber washers on one end of the bolt, (or both, but probably not necessary) so there is no metal to metal contact between the mounting plates due to the bolts. for example: Photo: www.acousticalsurfaces.com/assets/hg.jpg Website:www.acousticalsurfaces.com/mounts_springs/neoprene_isolators_hg.htm

Hi Stewart You could use a rubber tap washer drilled out for the bolt size,. Then sleeve the bolt with rubber hose split and cut as a sleeve to eliminate the vibration transferral.

Could the wind generator, at certain speeds be hitting the resonant frequency of the mast, or perhaps a stay? The vibrations wouldn't necessarily be a problem on any other installation, but if you have a mast or stays that just happened to be "tuned" to those frequencies it could show up. Great job getting Luckyfish back in the water. And as always, you two are brilliant at sharing what you have learned with the rest of us.

Hi Stew and Zaya, another excellent episode, as usual! I've always been intrigued by the concept of a vessel that is totally energy independent. As I think I've mentioned previously, I subscribe to a number of sailing channels (this being one of my very favorites, of course) and yours is the first featured boat with solar, hydro, and now wind energy all at once. That's so cool! You may have answered this previously, but are you considering eventually replacing Luckyfish's motors with electric ones? To be able to go wherever you want without having to worry about getting fuel (or water, since Luckyfish has its own watermaker) and leaving a practically zero carbon footprint is so intriguing. My understanding is that electric motors are so much easier to maintain than internal combustion ones. I love when you delve into the technical aspects of your boat and of sailing; you do it in a way that is easy enough for dummies like me to understand, while being very comprehensive as well. I'm wondering if you could at some point do an explanation of concepts like the relationship of amps to watts. I have only the most general understanding of those. I would imagine that you guys have had to do a fair amount of homework to tailor your green energy sources to the energy needs of Luckyfish and its crew. It would be great to hear the process by which you did that. I found the video you did on your hydrogenator extremely interesting. Keep those videos coming! Stay safe.

Use a much thicker block of silicone instead of the rubber and use locktite blue on the blade screws and a torque wrench to ensure consistent fastening.

Cool project!

Propeller tips bends on high speed getting too close to power line or even touching it -I would not place the turbine at the mast top it will attract lightning with copper cable running through your system.You gain more output by placing it higher but you will suffer from cable loss.Lover the voltage shorter the distance should be between power source or thicker wire.Jump start cables are thick for a reason.I hope you have much thicker copper wire running all the way to the water for lightning protection.Stay safe

Great stuff.

Thank you for the video! I live vicariously through this content 🤓 if I had the money I would live on a catamaran. I can dream though ⛵

GOOD JOB ! :)

I say the rotation shaft has some play inside the bearings or the bearings have play inside their housing.

Replace the bearings taking care to never push on the bearing running faces - only the sides. Take care not to nudge or tap the assembled unit on anything at all, or else you will put a tiny dint in a bearing face which will then run noisily. Pre-fill the bearings with extra thick grease will reduce noise at the expense of efficiency, but I don't think you will ever get away from hum with it mounted like that.

Good Day to both of you , solution would be to install a 3/16’’. Th, Néoprène or resistant rubber between the matching steel plates , also install rubber washer to each side of the lags bolts complete with steel metal washer . One under and one on top for each lag bolts Be sure to use a high density material for isolation Best regards

good video...sorry, no fix from me, I eliminated the wind generator on my current 13m cat, after nearly being driven mad by our old Ampair 100 on a previous monohull. The screaming of the blades during a f7 or 8 (at anchor) was worse than the F7 or 8! I like your hydrogen...would be interested in your long term assessment of it? Enjoy your vlogs, informative, fun, a bit of travelogue, but down to earth. Hope we cross wakes somewhere down the path....Thx! Andrew (St Augustine)

On our Wharram Narai we utilised a much earlier, cruder Rutland. I had a base with a 1/2 inch rod welded vertically on it, about 8 inches long. The Rutland was mounted to a tube. I then made rubber "washers" cut in my case from discarded rubber conveyor belting (about 1/2" thick) with a hole saw giving an outside diameter which fitted quite snugly inside the Rutand's tube. I over drilled the centre holes of these to 1/2 inch. I slid two oversize rubber washers down the rod first - then the other washers to the top. I had put a thread on the last inch of rod to fit a steel washer & nut to apply some pressure to expand the washers if necessary, but in my case everything was so tight it wasn't needed and I used soapy water to lubricate sliding the tube down over the washers. In fact it was so tight I didn't push the tube quite down to the two "base" washers, and it remained at that height for the seven years we owned her. It probably stayed there a lot longer but it doesn't show on any of the later videos shot by Cristiano, who bought her and took a lot of (low resolution) video during at least 8 subsequent Atlantic crossings in her... I rigged the Narai as a sloop and had the Rutland on a long tube on the starboard aft deck. I just read Black Hat's post and those commercial rubber bushings look perfect for your existing mount! ~ Scott

Good video guys thank you I considered this but think I will decline. Again thank you.

Raising the mast is called stepping the mast !

Two words: Vertical Axis. There are many reasons why a big spinning fan in the sky powered by the wind looks like a great idea. There are also many reasons why a spinning post is a much better idea. 1. Birds cannot see the blades of a horizontal spinning "fan", but never fail to miss seeing a moving/rotating "post".2. When the wind speed gets too high, the "wind" sees the blades of a vertical spinning generator as a post, and it will not spin any faster. You don't have to cut it off, or make it "brake" if the wind gets too fast.3. The lift on 3 blades that are 2 feet long is the same, if they are horizontal, or vertical - in any given wind speed. Think helicopter, or drone.4. A vertical axis generator is always "into" the wind - it doesn't have to change directions. As for the reason for the knock knock knock - Did you balance the entire assembled head? Did you check the pitch/angle/weight of all 3 blades on a dynamic spinning test stand? If one blade is different from the other 2 by being heavy/twisted/warped/off balance/not the same angle/a different temperature/weak/hollow - the list goes on and on - it will cause an imbalance in the entire system. Stick that issue on top of a 40+ foot pole, and you have found your problem. It's not enough to just tighten bolts. If one blade is different - in any way - to the center of rotation/air pressure/etc - you will have a noise at 40+ feet no matter how much rubber you put around it. The head needs to be spin-balanced, and since it is a "propeller", it needs to be pitch balanced also. As for the HUMM, I have a bag of rubber bands here you can wrap on your standing rigging to tie various bits of hanging metal onto to eliminate the giant stringed instrument you have created. Maybe you just aren't happy with the musical key you have created on the boat? It might be interesting to place people at all the "strings", and play a tune by having them hold the strings at the appropriate times. Music on the water, rather than smoke. Deep Purple would be proud, or more appropriately, Crosby, Stills, Nash, and Young. Oh, by the way, get yourself some box end wrenches. Open end "spanners" are for people who don't know hex.

How cool to be on my laptop when this notification popped up :) Clicked like and am about to watch. Been keen to see this one.

Great video, thanks for sharing. It’s very sad to experience a manufacturer with such lack of commitment to their products. I can see from the comments that they have been unable to solve the problem. If it was me, I would use my 20.000 viewers base to let everybody know about this product, and the lack of backup from the factory. They simply can’t let you down this way. I’m shocked that you have to ask your viewers for help and suggestions, rather than the factory. We all like happy and positive videos, but when it get down to the business of this, the factory let you down. Spread the word, bro, and safe travels out there.

You might find that the knocking sound comes from the mounting bolts where you have rubber sandwiched between 2 plates. Minor vibrations through the bolts can be removed if you have a nylon or Teflon sleeve bush between plates, rubber etc which would absorb sideways vibrations of the bolts

I installed 1st Rutland generator on my 1st catamaran back in the 80' and a 913 generator on my latest catamaran. Both worked and produced to specs, very quietly and minimal vibration . Fixed them pretty much like you did separating them with 5mm neoprene pads. Over 25 - 30 knots however vibrations were noticeable, but in those conditions I still prefer to manually lash down the propeller anyway. The weak point obviously are the bolts, for which I considered using bolt separation sleeves and washers as used for bi-metal separation of pipe flanges. I am not sure wether engine silent block type mount would be a good solution since they are somewhat flexible by definition and could cause the generator to wobble. As much as I like the idea of mast head installation, propellers tend to catch things and may require quick action, which is not easy with mast head install. Same for maintenance or removal when you have to handle 15 kg at arms length. Last year I replaced the 913 by two 914i generators with more sophisticated internal electronics and MPPT controllers. These however just produce a small fraction of the specified outputs, and one quickly developed some grinding noise under certain angles, most likely due to bearing issue. Still have not solved the problems, despite having sent back for check and re-installed with local expert supervision and advise. Anybody else have experience with this particular model?

Goodday mate when I mounted our wind generator whe had a loud humming noise after different try s we ended up putting a rubber sleeve around outside of pole where it mounted onto the wind generator solved the problem ours is mounted on a 11 ft pole on back of boat cheers mate

Couple of things to try, old conveyor belt used it a lot to stop vibration on a lot of machines. Another that may be easier to find is a rubber door mat

Easy and cheap rubber mounts: Go to your local auto parts store and get 4 sway bar end links for an early 2000's Chevrolet Cavalier.

Your bolts are in metal-to-metal contact in tension. Vibration does not just travel down the mast through compression. I have two suggestions: a. Remove the rubber pad and see if the rigidity solves the problem, or b. Put rubber between the bolt head and the metal plate, so the bolts are "suspended" by rubber.

I noticed the blade side of the generator is pointing up to the sky because of the angle of the mast . Its possible that the angle is loading the bearing ,when the shaft is rotating, at opposing points. The generator needs to set level to the deck, despite the slant of the mast.

I couldn't help but chew on how to scale UP your mast-top benefits, even before the vibration issue showed up in the video...and the shallow understanding I have of the way wind farms stagger their windmills made me fall into the natural staggering of multiple wind generators running straight in-line with the line of the boat...bow to stern, since that is the only direction that wind will never come from under sail. Of course, that changes under power, and the obvious question is HOW MUCH DRAG IS REGISTERED FROM A SINGLE WIND GENERATOR...OR...SIX? Ha!!! I couldn't help but take the next step in eliminating vibration by mounting three generators on gimbals supported by stainless pipe with rigging cable passing through it between two masts...OR...on a dampened spinnaker pole (or two that balance each other, port-to-starboard!). A triangle of spinnaker poles connected to the main mast at the front tip of a triangle, with rigging (spreaders?) stabilizing the rear two points comes to mind, which can support 6 to 8 small generators that are supported by enough cable that any vibration is mitigated seems interesting. Love to hear your input, and if multiple slightly smaller units would prove advantageous! Here is a gimbal set up that may be over-kill, but food for thought: >>>The "Tiltamax Gravity" 3-Axis gimbal is used to stabilize large digital cinema cameras up to 33 lbs (15 kg) via 3-axis motor calibration. The "Gravity" easily adapts to different environments and shooting requirements. It can be handheld, mounted to a jib, anchored to a camera car, mounted to a suction cup rig, etc...

You have mounts called motor mount. Or generator mounts. This could be used to reduce humming being made of rubber.

I’m a teacher in aviation ( propeller technology).. before you install any propeller, check tracking and balance.. this is most important to avoid any vibration.. also test at the mast or pole

I placed a 80,000 mill one a cement foundation one time and used a pcs. of 1" 1/4" rubber conveyor bely under the whole mill connected to cement foundation and once running, very rough mill, Raymond Mill, you could set a coffee on it and walk away and comeback ir it still there so I suggest a thicker rubber mount, if you have not corrected yet. Also, your support pole, if hallow, might be too long. Just me sitting here thinking about this.

I have the exact same generator, with the exact same humming sound, in spite of some rather sofisticated rubber mounts. But I don't have the knocking sound. The humming sound can be heard all over the boat, and is rather annoying when trying to sleep in an otherwise quiet anchorage.ff course, if you just love the idea of free energy pouring into the boat. The knocking sound reminds me of a motorcycle wheel with an old worn down bearing.

It is a shame you did not put a microphone on the mast so we could hear the knock and whining better. ( I was a sound engineer and it would have helped) I suspect the knock is a baring, and to get rid of harmonics are a trial and error of all the suggestions you may get. I would suggest the aluminum 26" pole could have some rubber clamped to it in the middle? or grab the standing and adjust tension, It will depend where the harmonic is?? Will be trial and test.Great idea to have a go ...well done. Brian London

How about using a flexible coupling for a shaft of the type that is a disc with four rubber grommets? Also, why not make the support pole such that it hinges and swings down? I have in mind a hinge that can be covered and secured by a sliding fit piece of tube over the pole. Slide that piece up above the hinge, and swing the pole down for servicing the generator.

Interesting to see your mounting there, I work on infrastructure development and have had some involvement with land-based turbines. generally, there is a low-level vibration which of the blades themselves. On the scale that I have been involved in the designers have employed a few tactics some you have employed some may be of use and others might be difficult to implement in a consumer market unit. 1) Isolation, As a few, have already mentioned your bolt fixings are a transfer point into the mast. on the industrial scale turbines, dampers are installed here, some go as far as looking at counterbalancing resonate frequencies using hydraulic mountings but in your application, I would suggest a passive system with a lower weight so as not to interfere with the boats COE. I would isolate using a hard and a flexible grommet with stainless washers separating the grommets both on the plate and mast side and use locking nuts to secure without the need for excessive tension. This should give you the widest range of dampening possible with rubber. A good of the shelf solution would be car suspension bushes, I think the type used for training arms would work well and for this application as they would be about the right size. 2) Blade Pitch and balance, this is fixed on yours so I will not go into much to much detail as rpm increase the pitch that delivers the quietest rotation differs on commercial turbines the pitch is trimmed to balance noise and efficiency. unfortunately, the graph for noise looks almost identical to the power output graph you showed in your video. It is possible that the rake of the mast pulls the base angle of the turbine slightly out of alignment, but as you have compensated for this in the plate, and it will never be perfect on a moving platform, there will always be additional vibration through the bearings as a result of the height increase. I would not focus much effort on this as to achieve any significant gains here you would need to significantly re-engineer the turbine and add adjustment and dampening into the bearings. You could, however, use spacers to adjust the rake forward slightly to see if this helps as you may find that there is some flex in the mast putting the rake of the turbine slightly further back which in use. You could probably work this out with a few engineers and some finite element analysis but to be honest your best off using washers to fine tune as the real world tolerances on the top of a sail mast mean that a more complex approach would be a bit of a waste of time as there are too many variables that would change dependent of rigging etc for it to be worth the time working this out by anything more than trial and error. 3) Low-Level Mast Vibration, the wind farm protestors favourite. Essentially the vibration caused by the mast resonating on account of the rotating mass on the top. I don't have a solution for this the manufactures try to accommodate for it in mast design and in foundation design. I am not overly familiar with the wirram rig, but would just advise you to keep an eye on the tension in the rig and add locking nuts where ever possible as mounting a turbine in this manner will have introduced a lot of additional vibration to your rig. doing this and adding dampening where ever possible will cut down on the additional levels of wear and tear as a result. As with any mast mounted turbine the mast will tend to make any vibration more audible in your application I would include your rig into this equation as the which may go some way to explain the variance in noise based on wind angles and reduction in the water, as under different tension loads this will become more and less audible. Sheathing where your rig loops around the top of the mast may help with any noise coming from the rig, but then again it could be transmitted through the mast itself. I hope there is something useful for you in my ramblings on this, it an interesting project you have there. I will follow it with interest as I had thought of doing something similar on my next boat (when I get the funds together for a catamaran).

I would cut a few 1/8" neoprene pads 1/4" total to go under the generator. I would not hope for much though but it should cancel out some of the constant unless it is actually wind harmonics through the blades. That knocking eats it. I would probably run it up to a month before the warranty expires and if it hasn't worked itself out send it in for warranty repair. If it does quiet down I would then check for any rotor play. I generally do not use triplex cabling for those. I use single runs of multi strand conductor and twist them together down the run to help offset any EMF that might be thrown around by the 3 phase varying frequency of the generator. But if you have no problems with that yet, you probably never will. Other than ease (or lack thereof) of maintenance I think it's a good location. More consistent power is worth the trade off unless the boat is a slip queen. ;)

I think we have to take things apart when we buy them, and remanufacture some pieces, because things seem to be made to break.

The website suggests securing the blades during intense winds to prevent damage; how does the wind generator perform during those conditions, and how has it held up to this point?

Luckfish, the knocking noise could be aerodynamic, caused by the proximity of the tubular mast relative to the blades when they pass at the 6 o clock position. I find it strange that the manufacturer would put the mast so close to the tower. The solution would be to make a cranked mast to put the bottom of the blade disk further from the support pole. But to do that it would have to get taller and structural integrity could be an issue. Vibrational isolation is a pretty complex topic and not simple mechanically.

what make/model are you battery charge monitors they are lovely ? Also love your channel, very real, down to to earth and engrossing, Thanks for sharing x Simon, Conwy UK..

I think the main reason you don't see this more is that the wire need to be a gauge or two larger, i.e. more expensive, to avoid DC line losses... and the high likelihood of a lightning strike destroying it! And the vibration transfer through the tightly attached mast... and the inaccessibility of the rotor for repairs... and the chance of ropes becoming fouled in the blades... or a blade coming off and killing you, or worse: ripping the sail... oh wait, what were the advantages? It does seem like a nice idea, but the benefits might be minimal compared to a stern-mounted unit. for vibration you might try fabricating a couple aluminum plates that go between the generator and the top of the mast. Then put rubber shock mounts (similar to engine mounts) between each plate. You can get these at McMaster Carr in the US in smallish sizes. four rubber mounts of about 20mm should do the trick, for each level of plate that you add. Of course, then you have a corrosion problem... www.mcmaster.com/=1fm60ic

The knocking very well could be caused by wind shadow caused by the mast.... Yes the mast is behind the blades but behind our in front causes pressure buildup.... Did you check balance of the blades.... Just like a ceiling fan out of balance causes noise.. If you climb the mast while it's spinning and use a metal rod held to your ear and different parts of the generator you can narrow down the origin of the knock.... Also consider that the knock could be a line that has resonance..... Try listening to each line.... Could be that the knock is just the coils passing magnet as well.... How does the nose cone connect?? Could be that too

Sounds like a defective bearing. Put a fine long screwdriver against the bearing area and place your ear against the handle of the screwdriver. If you hear the same noise when spinning the rotor by hand it's a bearing flat spot. If not get a rubber engine motor mount (small one, and you'll beed three to hold it at three places) and it will isolate all the noise (including the hum). Pm me if you need the details. Jean.

change the cable run on the inside of the mast for a cable conduit and fill the remainder with foam

Are you sure the blades aren't hitting anything? The wind does flex them toward the tail a bit, so you wouldn't notice it when the wind wasn't turning the rotor. Of course, if that was the answer, by now you've found it, because of the blade tip wearing on whatever it's hitting.

Engine rubber mounts would numb the vibrations.

That hum may be some sort of harmonic resonate. Would explained why it's only there some of the time.

I would agree with some sort of rubber dampers ,this always requires bigger hole, not me favorite solution,i do like the idea of the generator bieng up on the mast

If you think the blades are loose, you could try gluing the blades to the hub with a flexible adhesive. There is a lot of surface area at the hub for adhesive to act on, and so long as the adhesive is not brittle (epoxy =bad) it should damp any small relative movement you may be getting due to inconsistencies in the contact surfaces from the manufacturing process.

I am going to watch it again to see if you gave any performance numbers. If you do not need it and it has not been fixed yet, why not lock it to prevent loss of sanity. I believe you maintain a time delay between filming and posting. Could the knock be from where the mounting meets the top of the mast? The rubber might be providing an unstable surface and as the wind blows the force is transmitted down the mount causing it to flex at that point compressing the rubber at one side but not the other.

I can only think of 2 possible causes to your nocking problem one is that one of the blades is out of balance not just heavier or lighter but miss shaped causing it to exert more or less force ? 2 is that one of the bearings had a flaw and it didn't show up until it was run in. either way, I would love to know how you end up fixing it as I will have to employ a wind gen on the top of my mizzen mast. once my 42ft Wharram goes back in the water.

Wow your a keener man than me gunga din, A 12 foot pole on the stern & 2 $300 Alibaba wind generates does me & touch wood still going good the last i heard (sold her last year). Had to sand the front of the blades (with 800 grit) every 3 or 4 months to stop a hum.✔

Hello, very interesting video!! I'd like to know if you've solved the problem of vibrations and noise and if so, how! Good luck at all times and always a handbreadth of water under the keel.

I think if yall ever get into gale conditions you're at a great risk of losing it at considerable damage to the mast where connected and whatever it lands on..not so much an issue at sea becausethe wind if that strong wouldlilely take it away from the boat...but you never know, interesting placement for sure....

My guess for the vibration is that the blades and rotor aren't balanced. There are plenty of you tube videos to check and correct this problem.

Would anybody here be interested in joining a Facebook group about the Rutland 1200 WG? It seems to have some problems, and experimenting with the setup is very time consuming, so sharing proven ideas might be time and effort saving.

And sudden-ly, we started talk-ing all robotically

I wonder if the knocking could be a wire inside the mast that shakes enough at certain wind speeds to be tapping inside the mast?

Try a velcro strap(white) instead of blue tape. just a thought

not sure if it would help figure out what is going on , . but did it make the sound, when the wind was blowing, but the blades are not spinning (ie it is locked)? I think it would be best to address route cause, figure out what is going on , rather then trying to isolate the issue. IF you have it on the ground.. maybe you could spin it with a drill see if you can re create it there, with an without the blades. maybe the weight up high and tention of stays causes the whole thing to "sing" like a plucked guitar string. you might try something if you have a cleat or something some distance up the mast, . try to tie it off to one side of the boat ... and see if that makes the sound mostly go away, if so , then you know your mast is resonating somehow, and the act of tieing it off, has damped it.

Balance the blades both statically and dynamically. For static balance remove each blade and adjust weight on the blade so that they all have the same centre of mass. Then balance dynamically with hub assembled and rotating on the central hub so that no blade is favored. When dynamic balancing only add weight to the centre of mass you established with static balancing and not the tip. You can add mass using tape on the backside of the blade. The next thing to try would be tip tracking. You can rig something up so that as you rotate the blades you can see if they rotate on exactly the same plane. If not you can shim at the hub or twist the blade slightly. The tracking should be sub-millimeter.

To some extent all wind generators are noisy. I think I would think about bringing the whole thing down and tightening everything up, check bearings and use a medium duty locktite on all screws and nuts.

I strongly recommend that you go to a vertical axis wind turbine. The vibration is much less and the reliability is far superior.

Try looking at refrigeration compressor mounts as an avid RC plane builder and flyer Ive used them to quieten petrol powered aircraft engines small to large are available

Aparently we were also willing to live with the 3rd issue aswell...lol.

interesting, maybe a rope lashing wahram styl would help, lock tight in the hole contact surface of the blade ... think a bit of sound will always be there

replace the bolts with engine or gearbox mounts.

Another great episode sir! Really enjoyed it. So how is the wind power wise? How much do you get out of it on average? Do you like the rutland?

Is the generator hard mounted to only face forward or will it spin on the shaft to face into the wind? If the knock lessens in different when the blades are facing the wind at different points try to notice if it is more level to the deck or less in different positions. the fix for the knocking could be as simple as bending the mounting pole to level out the generator.

It's probably your rubber Mount that's putting the vibration into it it's giving it movement

How is the wind generator going now after some time has passed? What sort of charging amperage are you seeing from it at what wind speeds? (Thanks for all the great videos, really enjoying the channel!)

it would be cool if it gave you wind direction and speed, but i see you have that on your foremast :)

Depends if the wind turbines a good one because many rubbish for sale on ebay with bad reviews on KZfaq. Is the boat expensive to maintain. How often does the boat have to go out the water?

Id try removing the rubber all together. Vibration isolation is a science and adding the rubber between the mast head and gen plate, might have added enough movement in the plate for the clamp bolts to rock.

Go on line and do a search for Rubber Vibration Isolator Mounts on Ebay or Amazon. Another source in the USA is Grainger.com. They come in different sizes and load bearing capabilities. I have used them to quiet down KVH satellite TV antennas, watermaker pumps, generator gas separators on my boat. You would place them between the top of your mast head and the base plate of your wind generator mount. You do not want any solid connection like your bolts. Do what the movie industry does to prevent as a safety, place one or two small lanyards from the upper part of the mast and your generator mount. By doing this if the mounts ever fail and it breaks loose the most it will do is fall a foot or two.

Look at how equipment is mounted on submarines, this should eliminate noise and frequency vibrations. Also the strain relief that you screwed into the mast to secure the wire, is it UV protected?

Big like

Have you reached any conclusions regarding the effectiveness of the mast mounted wind generator compared to the hydro generator? Certainly the ability to generate power while at anchor is a plus but, depending on wind speed, it may not be as big a benefit as it appears. Thanks and keep up the good work.

Would love to know how much power you generate with it.

If it works good ,put up another. Balancing the blades is really simple. Build a vertical frame, bolt the blade in and the blade that falls is heavy. A strip of tape or a drop or two of paint on the lightest blade at the tipwill get you closer. Rinse and repeat until all blades are equal. If balanced that will cut out harmonics

I wonder if you could cancel the humming by generating an off phase tone at the same frequency, like noise cancelling headphones.

It's a knock not so much amplified resonance, which I'd say points to build quality of a. bearings/a bearing b. un-balance, but that should not be a problem in a quality build/design. I'd suggest, if you can, to return this build, have them send a flawless one, replace with another make altogether, or have a specialist look at the internal design and guesstimate where the problem is, upgrading with a better bearing(s) and such, test bench it (which is the manufacture's job). Cladding the pole might lessen the problem but not solve it, more rubber under its connecting plate I'd say would be avoiding the actual problem and the forces on this rig are quite high I'd bet which would cause all kinds of other problems. (This is a bad problem I'd say). 2cts.

Here is a website with several examples, specs. and illustrations sweets.construction.com/manufacturer/Acoustical-Surfaces--Inc--NST8044/products/C---CIP---CIW-Neoprene-Housed-Spring-Mounts-NST333576-P

hi , i flow to florida to meet with the family for thanksgiving , on my way there i stop in Labelle to see if i can meet you guys, i did find the small marina but one of the guy there told me that you were long gone, any way you keek scholing us everything you need to know about sailing your way

Put a bit of butyl rubber sound deadener into the mast?

Hi Stewart and Zaya. I found this video very interesting. While we were staying with you on Luckyfish in The Bahamas I was very interested in the wind generator. I did not find it too noisy in the conditions we had, but I understand that you want to refine the installation. I remember sitting in the middle of the night on deck, looking at the stars and hearing the wind generator topping up the batteries, knowing that our energy needs for the next day will be ok. :)

I think the noise just comes with the territory I always try to anchor away from people with wind generators as the do make a lot of noise .

How are you going to tie off the blades in hi wind conditions the electronic brake only slows it down so you can tie it off are you going to climb the mast each time

That hum could be harmonics set up with the mast -- not much you can do about it unfortunately without adding mass and that would not be a good idea given that it is at the top of the mast. Just my thoughts for what they are worth .

Liquid filled engine mounts. I believe my Toyota has them,

After all this time how has the wind generator worked out for you? Are you happy with it up on the mass or would you recommend it elsewhere?

on rutland wind generators they recommend no more than 2" or 48.5mm outer pole diameter. I think this is because the blades bend so much that they will hit a larger diameter mounting pole. Is it possible that your mounting pole is to short and the knocking is the blades striking the mast???