or increase your flow rate by a small percentage to manage the material rate more precisely

One of the first prints I did was a vase - pushed the flow to 120% and it came out perfect and watertight

I saw a vid a week or so back where someone was vase printing with extreme line widths. Amazingly they had good results with line widths many times the nozzle width. Like 2mm with a 0.4mm nozzle. The line width was even wider than the flat part of the nozzle. The secret seemed to be increasing the layer height to maintain a 5:2 ratio or something like that. Annoyingly I can't find the vid now or I'd post a link.

Found it... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Zqpxg5iL0pfOpp8.html

.8 nozzles just make it so much stronger, that's what I'd suggest.

Whatcha talkin' 'bout Willis!? It's a LEAR jet! 🤣

absolute lifesaver, thank you lmao

Atomized flame thrower 🤔

You can smell ipa way below flammable limits

For some reason I thought you were taking about fans as in people, not fans as in spinny fluid movers the first time I read your comment XD It reeeeaaly changes the meaning

Same bro

I don't know, I like my fans loud and cheery

@@beeallen2743 Me too, It took some time before I got that thought off my mind 🤪😂

I was thinking the same thing. Some of the silent fan blades would this make them even more silent and would make them work better?

He can sell ice to penguin.

Must hurt

@@tsayon13 hurt what?

@@tsayon13 all it hurts is the resin build up

@@donaldhobson9027 Cleaning his "pipes" with alcohol.

I have 5 liters of the stuff myself.

Good ole Synthwave. If you like that type of music and you're a gamer, give Katana Zero a try.

Ĺ⁰l

The piece is called Alienated - ELFL. Really cool B-roll shot from the machine.

I hear subscribing gives you +10 to your tech skill.

that applies to any vapor smoothing, abs needs to dry veery long before it loses the gummyness

Do you think it can be cured in less time if put in a UV curing machine or nope ?

Would love to know how you do it

​@@chiefkelly Hey, to use this method you will need a couple things. A large metal or glass container/pot that fits the models you want to smooth. An induction heater, you REALLY don't want any open flames or red hot elements due to the acetone vapors being highly flammable. Stiff wires to dangle the model into the pot/container. And Acetone. I tend to use large 2 litre lab bekers for this as when the acetone is ready (boiling nicely) you will see a line a condensate move up the side of the container. Once this line get to the top your ready to carefully dunk your model into the vapors. DON'T PASS THE EDGE OF THE CONTAINER WITH YOUR FINGERS! The vapors are hot enough to give instant burns. (We found out the hard way) Once the model is in the vapors it will immediately get a wet look, swirl it in the pot for 5 seconds then take it out and see if it is smooth enough. Repeat with 5 sec exposures if necessary. When your happy hang your model to dry. Ok usual warning apply, only do this in a well ventilated area, no open flames of glowing hot elements and wear PPE's This works because we aren't using a chemical smoothing technique as with acetone and ABS but using the super heated acetone vapor to melt the outer layer of the PLA. Let me know how it goes if your try it and if you have any other questions

@@KylejvT Will a small countertop induction heater work for cooking? I've seen some for $85.

@@WestCoastDP Most definitely, a friend and former college uses one for his PLA smoothing. He's posted a video of the process for at home smoothing also testing various brands and types of PLA. Look up "Wayne's Workshop" and you should be able to find his channel and the video in question. If you have any other questions about the process please feel free to ask.

Agreed, multiple short cycles prevent the solvent penetrating the surface too deeply. Should work just the same with this, though doing this manually on this rather gimmicky machine looks like it would be a pain. It's something the manufacturers should consider though, along with getting rid of the silly rising platform.

U mean with a brush?

Would brushing IPA on it work, or should I only spray?

He has another channel?:o

Probably want a resin for that, otherwise you'll want to slice the models in half for some of them just so you don't have a bunch of supports to trim. You can do that pretty easy though, have fun!

When you print in Vase mode using a .4 nozzle bump your line width up to .6. it pushes more material and will make the walls way thicker and fill the holes. I make lots of Vase's and this works wicked.

I've been doing a fair bit of single-wall printing and find I have no problems with things being watertight. Just picked up an old failed print (failed halfway up) that is single perimeter with no infill... and poured some water in and sure enough, no leaks even with some rather complex curving and overhanging geometry. I suspect what makes it work well for me is that I'm using 0.05mm layer height for my single perimeter prints. Finer layer height means more horizontal overlap from one layer to the next as the surface moves in the x/y directions. I think my use of fine layer height without changing line width, has similar effect to @Destructor429's bumping the line width up.

I would rather crank up the flow % modifier rather than mess with the line width. Also in my testing Rouge is right about thinner layers holding pressure better, although I only tested down to 0.1mm.

Yes!

u sure? MEK dissolves ABS, but PLA?

Not that bad. Just an irritant.

There seems to be a lot of people that confuse MEK with Methylene Chloride. MEK does not smooth PLA in any useful way, it just makes it soft and rubbery. Usefull for clearing out a clogged hot end after a good soaking, but not much else. Methylene Chloride does have a useable smoothing action on PLA, but unlike MEK it is a very toxic chemical. This is the stuff that was removed from paint stripper some years ago, and why modern paint strippers are useless.

@@ferrumignis if you are talking about DCM, yes, considering that it is a powerful organic solvant, still commony used in labs, it should smoothe PLA. It is however toxic to inhale, although less toxic than most Organic-Chloride Compositions

It also turns out that while Acetone and MEK are great solvants for alkane based plastics such as ABS, they are quite ineffective when working with PLA

Isopropyl alcohol (or acetone) has no effect on PLA, or at least no smoothing effect. Actually acetone mist kind of messed up my PLA jigs I used to hold my ABS parts in a vapour chamber, but they just got deformed and discoloured, they didn't get any more smooth.

Youve probably figured out layer lines by now but i believe what i did was make the wall and top lines thicker. I forgot some of the other settings but now it doesnt have layer lines but the edges are almost balled now to the point that theres almost a seam on each corner

The plastic reels are probably cheaper than the cardboard ones!

@@ferrumignis Yeah I get that, but they can claim it in the Environmentally Friendly Packaging in Advertising & adjust the price if needed, I'm sure they are not taking a loss on the Environmentally Friendly version, to me it just nullifies the 'We Care' attitude of the Environmentally Friendly version to 'We'll do anything for a sale'

Gravity will pull the mist into a density gradient no matter where the spray is. A small fan might help, but most of the problems he had were with the piece that was technically too big for the machine. There's also a small-but-reasonable chance that an electric fan could ignite just the right air-fuel mixture into a bomb. Most of them are not designed to be vapor-proof, and the fuel here (purposefully vaporized alcohol) is much more dense than most places you might use a fan, like for spray booth exhaust.

a small aquarium pump would push the air around more evenly too.

you can seal the tote with RTV silicone to minimize IPA loss.