@@BanditApache-nd6lu to each his own my friend!

@@BanditApache-nd6lu for most guys tinkering with their guns is 50% of the fun at least myself included

Lmao that’s funny ! Thanks for watching ! Speaking of hammer I ordered a STI Square hammer from Dawson Precision I’ll let everyone see how that works out and the Pin punch set would be a good idea to lol I never planned to ever make videos but it just happened after all the crap talking about the Prodigy and I thought it was a bit Unfair to Springfield Armory because so many of us haven’t had any issues and we Love the Prodigy so that was that start.

@niswii I appreciate that! Thank you for watching and God bless!

Thank you very much. I really appreciate the feedback and you’re very welcome. I am very happy. I was able to help you out. That is literally what this is all about for me. So getting your feedback is important! So many firearm owners don’t know what they are missing out on in my opinion. Customizing and making your firearm more personal & suited to your desires is a ton of fun and it helps you understand your firearm intimately. You can’t get that buying a Glock and keeping it OEM. Well thanks again and God bless my friend!

@@americantrucker9813 I have no real way to repay you but to wish G#ds Blessings upon you, tell you the truth and tell others to listen to what you know !!!!! 🙂

Your welcome! And thank you for watching ! I’m no professional KZfaqr I just wanted to help out like minded People like myself when KZfaq is filled with so much BS these days ! God Bless you and if you have any issues let me know and hopefully I can help

I appreciate that thank you! And anytime sorry for the terrible angles I didn’t plan on making KZfaq videos ever

You’re welcome thanks for watching and God bless!

Your very welcome! I’m glad i was able to help out that is why I do it ! God Bless and thanks for the kind words !

What are the chances you could do an Egnition System/Hammer Install? EGW

Your very welcome! And I can upload a video this weekend!

@@americantrucker9813 fuck yeah

@@americantrucker9813 did you notice you disconnector holding up the slide and did you polish the disconnector?

So you really don’t want to take any material off of the disconnector, but you can polish it, if you wish to remove the slide resistance on the disconnector, you will have to cut a ramp in the front of the disconnector rail on the slide basically you would take a Dremel and take material off of the bottom of the breach face the goal is to make the bottom of the breach face sit above the Disconnector (my $6,000.00 Atlad NYX came Factory with this Ramp cut into the Disco Rail on the slide) but I will tell you the only real gain from this will be the smooth action of the slide without any resistance as far as functionality goes it does help with reliable feeding but not as much as you’d think you see because the slide is held up @ the Most Rearward Position of the Slide Blowback so once it has cleared the disconnector it Is @ Full speed and some would argue this helps reliable feeding because it ensures the slide doesn’t outrun the magazine (which is 1 of the reasons why alot of competition shooters go with lighter, recoil springs) I have ran 5000 rounds through my Atlas with 2 stove Pipe failures and I’ve ran over 15,000 rounds through my Prodigy without the ramp cut into the slide with 4 stove pipe issues and I’ve ran 600 rounds through the prodigy after cutting the ramp into the slide without fail but that is my opinion only they’re may possibly be more factual reasons why or why not to make such a modification.

Your welcome! I’m definitely no expert or gunsmith but I’m happy to help out! Let me know how it works out for you and if you end up liking it as much as I do !

Will do! I'm going to get after it tomorrow after work. Gotta get a stripped grip screw out. I also ordered extras when I got my trigger. Have a good night 😴

@@robbywallace655 figures you stripped a grip screw ( they are crap) lol luckily the atlas grip screws are better ! And thank you the same to you !

I just realized! When you set your Pre-Travel you have to make sure your Grip safety Engages! I had my Pre-travel too Short and my Grip Safety was effectively useless. You can Shorten the Grip Safety if you want to shorten the pre-travel. Allot of 2011s have No grip safety like the Cheely Metal Grips they eliminate the grip safety so it’s just something to be aware of.

@@americantrucker9813 thank you for the update!

Thank you my friend! And the Factory Trigger Shoe & Bow is pretty much an identical, aside from Cosmetics and The adjustment tabs. But i should have done this video when I first replaced everything but I didn’t plan on making these type of videos at the time. Anyways thanks for watching.

You did a good job. I'll be using this to upgrade my trigger@@americantrucker9813

You’re very welcome my friend!! Happy to help! Thanks for the feedback I appreciate it !

Your welcome! I’m happy to help if I can Any time buddy !

I just realized! When you set your Pre-Travel you have to make sure your Grip safety Engages! I had my Pre-travel too Short and my Grip Safety was effectively useless. You can Shorten the Grip Safety if you want to shorten the pre-travel. Allot of 2011s have No grip safety like the Cheely Metal Grips they eliminate the grip safety so it’s just something to be aware of.

I appreciate that my friend. Thank you very much for watching and for your kind words. I have a lot more content on this channel aimed at helping you out so if you need any more help and you’re having a hard time finding what you need, you might find it on my channel

Your welcome my friend! Glad it helped.

@@americantrucker9813 love the gun a little sharp around the edges but nice

I’m glad you’re enjoying it and I can understand it being sharp. My atlas slide literally cuts me! Put on The Prodigy you can buff those sharp edges But unfortunately it will remove the cerakote

@@americantrucker9813 yea Springfield could've done better I think they made it to quick without checking the prodigy it seems as soon as it got made they just rushed it out the door

@mickeythompson5445 your probably right my friend but in all I like what they did but I’m biased because I was waiting for a Bul Armory Tac 2 for over a Year with no end to the waiting in sight and than out of nowhere the prodigy came out and much cheaper and the things that they did cheap were irrelevant to me because I would have upgraded the internals & tuned it regardless unless they had put EGW internals and Hand-fitted & tuned but it would have cost 3x as much ohh snap I did buy a $6,000 atlas with EGW internals and I still had to tare it down & replace the Sear and tune the trigger lol so I guess my point is It don’t matter how much more you pay you can always have issues and I think with this platform guys whom never took a gun apart were able to learn as much about their firearm as a gunsmith and once you understand it and you can tune it yourself it makes a much more reliable tool for EDC & whatever else you may use it for. There’s plenty of cheap guns that take me hours to take apart and put together and with more tools and some are even scary to strip bc they can break like FN 509s frames loving to crack. But I think once you get yours squared away I think you’ll fall in love with it and it will be your favorite pistol platform well that’s how it was for me but definitely let me know how your story goes ! And God Bless you & Yours !

You’re very welcome thank you so much for watching and God bless you !!

They sell different trigger shoes if you have the Atlas bow which I’m assuming you do maybe try the Atlas short trigger shoe. The good thing about Atlas is you can buy the shoe by itself. Different hammers & sears and trigger bows will have different Breaking & reset travel points so you just gotta remember to start it at zero when replacing any of those points before tuning it in. But I’m glad you got it squared away my friend and I’m glad this was able to help you!

Thank you & Your welcome my friend. God Bless you & yours !

Thank you my friend I appreciate that!

Thank you ! I appreciate that! I have a bunch of prodigy content if you pretty much need any help at all check them out and if I don’t have videos that help let me know and I’ll try my best to help !

The takedown pin can be tricky that’s normal, I find it makes it easiest to once you get the take down the pin in the hole and it won’t go any further slowly work the slide back-and-forth until it drops all the way through. It’s usually a little bit of pressure to the rear for it to go home.

Thank you very much my friend! I hope it helped you out !

Thank you !

If you noticed that video is from when the Prodigy was first released and The prodigy’s only came with 1 optic plate and it took months to get an RMR plate. This video was simply modifying the plate to accept an optic I had laying around.

Basically, pull your slide off, make sure to put the hammer all the way down to relieve the pressure on the mainspring and then tap that pin out and you can replace it without further disassembly but it’s honestly probably easier since your that far to put the hammer in the cocked position and work out those ambi safeties so you can see that you’re sear spring is correct and than throw the mainspring back in to hold it there and than everything else back on. you can do it without pulling the slide and the safeties but it’s honestly kind of a pain and you might end up having to take it all apart anyways.

And you’re welcome for the video! Thanks for watching!

you don't need to pull off the slide... but why do you want to change the sear spring? at least you have to tune it, as well the new one, it's not a drop in part... instead, you should thing about replacing all the firing group with a decent one, the original parts suck...

You must use the Atlas bow with the atlas Trigger shoe, the OEM will not Work. So yes I had to buy the bow. You can use multiple atlas trigger shoes with the same Atlas bow.

Absolutely you’re welcome! Thank you for watching and yes it is the flat X line trigger specifically the Medium Black shoe with the 2011 Bow. I sent a link to a guy that asked for it a couple comments down if you can’t find it I can send it to you

atlasgunworks.com/product-details?id=1928700

Here’s the link also you should grab some grip screws just in case yours strip mine did as well as a few other people I also ordered a 17 pound mainspring from them and I didn’t order any but you can order different size and color shoes I think for 35 bucks or something like that and you can just change the shoe on the same bow

It’s not so bad my friend I imagine if you’ve put together a Lower receiver you can certainly handle this but only you know your capabilities so it’s definitely not my place to tell you otherwise. Good luck and God Bless !!

www.atlasgunworks.com/product-details?id=1453419

Yes indeed! So to put your mainspring pin in you must make sure your slides off and hammer is all the way Down for the easiest way to install it, and your grip safety will need sanded down if you’ve changed the trigger in most cases especially if it’s an Atlas Trigger and you’ve taken pre travel out.

I didnt change the trigger, just cleaned the gun thoroughly. I can slide the grip safety in and when I try to pull the hammer back it doesn’t cock, it just flies back forward. I had it all put back together and everything was working except for grip safety

If you have the atlas trigger. There are two little tabs that meet in the middle by the trigger bow. They are little metal cut outs do you have to bend them out to erase pre travel and bend them to normal to ass pre-travel

So I have an atlas trigger and I already adjusted the tabs out. I remember you said that if the tabs are adjusted a little too far forward that you can reassemble the gun and the push the trigger bar forward hard enough to bend the tabs back a little. I was just wondering where you push on the bar at when it’s all put back together.

I still use the factory recoil spring but I use an estimated to be 13lbs mainspring in all of my 2011s & 1911s. Anything over 17lbs is not needed in my opinion but apparently to my knowledge, the equipment to measure spring tension weights is very expensive and not many places have the proper equipment to measure the springs accurately so there are a lot of variations in the springs. For example, I bought three different 17 pound springs from three different reputable dealers, and all three were different the lightest was approximately 13 pounds based on the half assed way, I measured it but I loved it so I use that in all of mine now. I’d say for the recoil spring buy a variety box of recoil springs. They are super cheap on eBay and try all of them to see which one works the best for you because they recoil spring is pretty subjective to the person. I like lighter to help with more reliable feeding and less muzzle dipping but you may like heavier for Faster cycling of the slide.

I have a couple of trigger job videos that can walk you through the process, I would say the key is to remove friction from the entire trigger, and when I say trigger, I mean the trigger shoe, the trigger bow, the hammer, & sear. The hammer and sear can fit snug but they shouldn’t be rubbing hard and wearing the finish on either the frame or the parts, so you can polish the inside of the frame and or the hammer & sear. This is where your disconnector being fitted properly with the hole in the frame is important, because dirt/carnon/debris from shooting can cover your hammer, and sear and start to cause friction, so making sure your disconnector fits perfectly in that hole is a good thing, and once you’ve made sure that all of your parts can move freely without a bunch of friction, then you will need to tune your sear spring, I recommend at least a 17 pound spring ( I use a 13lbs ) the heavier the mainspring the heavier the trigger & vise versa. And for tuning the sear I suggest watching my video so that you can see what to do and how to test it,

@@americantrucker9813 thank you much 👍🏽

@bddizon you’re very very welcome my friend!

I can definitely help ! So did you put in a Ejector or Extractor ? And it can’t be either of those. The first the I’d do is Check that you have enough pretravel and over travel in the atlas trigger. Did you use red loctite on the atlas trigger adjustment screw ? If not that screw will move and it can take away the required pretravel and this will cause Hammer Follow which I’m assuming is what is going on. I have a trigger video I think it’s titled trigger job adjusting the Trigger pull weight not the Atlas trigger install video. That video should walk you through how to check and fix yours. Also the over travel Tabs on the atlas trigger bow if there’s not enough over travel you can have hammer follow. I’m going to bet it’s the pretravel. If it’s not then watch that video and add weight onto your sear spring specifically the left Leaf spring that sits on the Sear. If none of that helps let me know and I’ll add more steps

@@americantrucker9813 thanks I will do and check all of this tonight!

Did you put in an Atlas Trigger or different trigger or other parts ?

@@americantrucker9813 so I went to a different video of yours last night to trouble shoot and found that I was putting the sear spring in wrong. I had to pay attention to you mentioning how the three different knot hes have to do and lay down. (Disconnector) etc.. got it worked out and installed 👍🏼

@@robertgilbreath1365 awesome! I’m glad you got it fixed, I’m sorry about the first video I realized afterwards that i probably should have mentioned the disconnector & Sear positioning but I’m not a video specialist so I’m not sure how to edit and do all that and it was a long dang video. I’m not sure if you got this information in the videos but once you get your trigger shoe the way you want it as far as over travel, I’d recommend some red locktite on the triggers over travel screw ( Unless you are going to replace your Hammer or Sear, & disconnector soon) because that over travel Screw in the trigger shoe can & is likely to move (depending on the trigger shoe & screw) and can prevent your gun from firing. And I don’t want that to happen to anyone.

How so my friend ? And I rock the Holoson PID now. I’d recommend it to anyone needing a good light at a good price

So with my gun completely original the atlas trigger fit perfectly without any fitting, but I have since made many updates, including competition sear and disconnector as well as the aluminum grip by cheely and with that grip it requires fitting. If you are chasing a lighter trigger pull then even if it fits you can polish any spots that are causing friction and it’s possible to dramatically lighten the pull I went from 4.5lbs to 2.5lbs by polishing two spots on the trigger bar.

@@americantrucker9813 thanks for the info I really appreciate it!

Your welcome! And Good luck !

I made a video demonstrating my recommendations on how to remove & how to fit your safety’s check out my channel it’s pretty recent

@@americantrucker9813 thank you!

thanks for watching! I’m sorry your having issues and couldn’t hear, maybe try using headphones or Bluetooth for sound until you get a new phone that’s what I did when I had a messed up phone in the past !

So the trick is to make sure the hammer is cocked, and the safety is up into the Safety on Position and take a think blade knife and help pry out the left side safety. If they haven’t been removed, it can be difficult the first time don’t worry you will not break anything just be careful not to scratch up your gun. Use the rail as the leverage point

@@americantrucker9813 ok. I have to find a tool thin enough for a knife edge but I don't care about the edge and it won't mar the gun. Thanks!

@@nick3d155 what I do is put the blade flush against the rail and than flip the safety up and that gives just a little leverage to open it up just enough to get the blade into middle of the top of the safety if that makes sense. Just don’t pry on the right side safety because it can’t be moved out until the left ones disconnected from it because it needs to flip up and out of the grip slot.

I’m sorry that’s stupid of them definitely! I have a bunch of videos that pretty much show you how to get it squared away yourself it will probably make more sense for you to Tune it, that way it’s not only done right but I think it’s a very good thing for everyone to know every part of their Firearm and how it functions and that way they can fix it fast and cheap and know what’s wrong if something is wrong. And not defending Springfield but regardless of what gun you buy and how much you pay some will always have issues some more major than others, I bought a $5,700 Hand crafted Atlas Nyx V2 and it had Hammer follow and the first time i chambered a round it put a hole in my Kitchen floor & Atlas Said and I quote “you’ll have that with Light triggers sometimes” they didn’t offer to Pay for the damage and advised I should Tear the gun down and tighten the Sear spring. So in a way I think even in your situation you still have a good gun Sights are cheap and The Rear sight is easy tighten on The prodigy heck you can just swap Rear optic plate since they have the rear sight on them. I’m not sure if you meant the front sight post is loose, or the fiber itself is loose. If the fiber is Loose you can just throw it away and replace it fibers are very cheap and are meant to be replaced. As for the post, I’m not sure why that would be loose, but you can probably troubleshoot or replace, Trijicon makes some very sweet night sights that I like better than Fiber Optic but I use A red dot so the iron sights are just back up so I’d put something cheap on. And as for your guide rod, I’m not sure what’s wrong with that but there are plentiful options to replace that some that are as cheap as 12 bucks I’d recommend getting on EGW.COM and ordering The Prodigy keyed guide rod kit for whatever prodigy you have it is a awesome upgrade. It makes the muzzle look so seamless. If there’s any help you need, just let me know. I can make a video or tell you through fixing it. Or you can find a reputable local gunsmith. This platform has been around for over 100 years. The parts for it are super cheap and very simple to work on. And one last thing I forgot your Ambi safety’s, I don’t use the factory ones that came. They are definitely on the cheap side. I recommend the Atlas High Ambi safety’s they are very expensive, but they are excellent quality and worth it, they are stainless steel you can get them hard chromed or DLC coated the DLC coated doesn’t stay in stock very long. Or you can get on eBay and find a very cheap set. I imagine if yours are loose the issue is the Right side Safety has One little Pin that has a split end that sometimes gets loose so you can take it off and pinch the end of it with pliers or a vice just a little bit and then when you’re putting them back together, they will be difficult to get together. I use a vise to push them together very easily but then they will be super snuggly and tight!

Thanks for the help they finally got in touch I ve got it sent off just waiting now

Hammer follow. How heavy is the trigger pull ?

It’s common and you can fix it no problem but first help me narrow it down to save you time & work.

If you were installing the new Atlas trigger than make sure you have enough Pre/travel & Over travel of the trigger. Did you change the sear spring at all ? Like bending the leaves ?

@@americantrucker9813 I didn’t but that doesn’t mean it hasn’t happened, I just watched atlas sear spring video very informative, and yes was installing the atlas trigger

I have a video on how to do a trigger job. If you like to watch, that will show you everything you need to do to get it working, right. If you have checked that you have adequate pre-travel, and over travel. Which I’m guessing that is where your problem is because it is a new trigger. I would make sure to loosen the overtravel screw until it is flush with the trigger shoe and if that doesn’t work, then you should add weight to the sear by bending the left leaf of the sear spring towards the muzzle. Remember, a little is a lot and you will find the sweet spot.