With a lot of tinkering I managed to smoothen out the washers and tighten the pivot just enough to not have bladeplay and a drop shut action. My Para 2 does that without any tinkering on my part.

To be honest, from the steel types you mentioned, i have a bit of experience with s90v where, due to the final cost of the knife, i am sceptical of the HT at least… I can tell you that if i would have to chose i would be curious about M4. I am looking into k390 at the moment. For me it’s more about what it can/could do compared to other steels. I think ease of sharpening, in a knife you use on a daily basis is more important than a long lasting edge(to some degree). From what i have seen/read about s110v it is not too far apart from the others, in terms of edge retention/ease of sharpening, from the others you mentioned. So if you’re ok with that i think you’ll manage the others and might only see the benefits. One thing i could suggest(maybe you’re doing this already) would be a small edge angle and/or a thinned out grind. That will help with ease of sharpening because there is less material you’d have to grind off and a thinner edge will cut better even when it is duller. For some time now i have tested thinner out grinds. Down to 0.15 mm(6 T of an inch). Depending on what you’re cutting some steels might be able to handle that without damage, some might not. For example: for vg10 that is too thin if cutting dry beech wood with knots. Zdp189 can handle that. In a way…the opposite would be a thick edge, 0.6-0.7 mm with a large edge angle, 30-35 dps, crudely sharpened on a coarse diamond rod, took almost no damage while cutting dirty materials with no care. When i say “no damage” i am saying: it dulled with time but it was still ok for the jobs it did(wood, dry wall, dirty plastic containers), easily restored to it’s toothy edge, and after 2 weeks of that, when i cleaned the edge, put a finer finish on it, i couldn’t see or feel no chips. That was s30v. But such a large edge angle can make simple chores like cutting cardboard quite difficult in the long run.

@@SpartanJohns I get what you mean. It's all about compromise. I want thin enough to slice well, but enough metal there to do the job I want it to do. I don't need a maxamet blade that can cut a piece of rope 1000 times and still slice paper. It just might be really neat to have though. Lol. I enjoy sharpening though, so if it can get me through a day, and with a little stropping get me through the week , I'm good with that. I learned years ago there really isn't one knife to do everything great. But that would take the fun out of it I suppose. If you get your hands on k390 I hope you make a video about it. I'm curious about that one too. Thanks for all the effort you put out, love the channel

@@kirindaremoe8672 that is a good point you brought up. There i no one knife for all tasks and there is not one steel you need. It would be nice to have something hold it's egde for a long time, regain it with minimal effort and be easy to sharpen...but there isn't! Thinned out grinds help in that regard. I have been playing with ZDP as i mentioned. up until recently i was not able to get that thin edge back to razor sharp just with a leather strop. I did not account for the damage I actually did. I cut cardboard with it for about 2 hours and even though it would not cut a piece of paper cleanly it would still go thru the cardboard with ease. But at that point the edge was so dull that it would have taken a long time to bring it back with just a strop. Not sure how thin you like your grinds, but .3 mm at aprox 1 mm behind the apex for anything above S30V should give you no problems and be relatively easy to maintain. Especially if you have some good quality sharpening stones. I am also looking into those as well as K390....but I have to be honest and realize that I have too many things on my plate. Right now I am trying out Cold Steel's S35VN. People say it's chippy and it does not hold a decent edge....so I have 2 knives which I am sharpening and testing constantly. TBH...i prefer a good grind to a super steel. Those are nice....but the prices can be a bit much. For that money I'd rather test out 2-3 different models. Plus...i don't really like "cut tests". They are a good indicator but in day-to-day life...i do more than cut 1 kind of material. I do like watching them! Very entertaining for me for some reason... Hey...i'm glad you like the content. I am happy when my viewers are entertained and if there is something to be learned...even better. :)

@@SpartanJohns I've heard that about cold steels edges also. I wonder if modifying it to a convex edge would help any? I'm interested to see what your results are. A friend of mine is into flashlights as well as knives and he told me this...you want great battery life, great brightness, and inexpensive....pick two out of those three choices because that's all your going to get lol. I think I'm going to try a kme sharpening system to help with my edge angles , and experiment some as you have done. Maybw you could show us some of your sharpening methods sometime. Keep up the good work!

A convex edge will be more durable. ckcKnies has a great video with CAD drawing where he shows why. As for stropping and sharpening....what really helps me out is when there is little material to remove(thin grinds). I used the Lansky for about 10 years as my only sharpening system. Recently i got the Worksharp Precison Adjust. I like that one simply because it is easier and faster to use. Also...lately the Lansky stones have really dropped in quality. I do have a 3 part series on how I use the worksharp....but that might get published in the future...near or far. Not sure. I made it mostly for patreon. Imo there is no "better shapening method" when it come to daily use. Keep it simple and use what you can afford. Don't "buy into" the "this is the best stone/system....it comes down to what you need for what you use/do.

I like the PM2. I think micarta scales are a great improvement on comfort in hand. There are many steels I have not tried from Spyderco. From what I have experienced, they do get the HT right on most of the ones they use. So yes...i am very curious. However the price is holding me back a bit. The Giant Mouse Ace Biblio is one I do feel attracted to for some reason. Not the usual thing I would consider putting in my pocket but I do like micarta handle scales and wire pocket clips. About slipjoints....I have the UKPK and I have a Manly WASP. But for some reason(even if my first folder....about 28 years ago....was a slipjoint) I can't bring myself to carry them. I like the weight, grind and wire pocket clip of the UKPK....but the fact that it's slipjoint bugs me. There are so many cool looking models which are slipjoints...

@@SpartanJohns yes Micarta is my most prefered handle material. Since my Esee 4 many years ago, I tried to get each knife with micarta. So I also changed the handles at my Shaman to micarta. I´m also no fan of slipjoints and the UKPK is more my wife´s knife than mine. What I like about the UKPK, is the forward grip - quite safe for light work. Yes there aree many beautiful slipjoints from classy to modern, but they are not my cup of tea. When I have some savings for fun stuff, I always prefer to go for something else. Next one probably will be a Manix with some kind of cool steel, like Rex oder Z-Wear - still hope for a Cruewear version, as my PM2 with Cruewear is outstanding. While the Biblio action is not even near the level of PM2, the rest of the knife is great for a EDC. Ergonomics are perfect and the wire clip is great.

I still have the Sage 1 and my wife has the Sage 5 LW(which i clean, sharpen and play with from time to time). I just put my Sage 1 side by side with the Delica. To me it seems to have about 2 mm more blade length and 2 mm less handle length.. I would take the Sage(1, 5, 5 LW) anyday over this Para 3. The Para 3 LW....that one is better. Not better than the Sage...just better than the Para 3.

@@SpartanJohns Exactly. I love the Sage, but would have preferred that slightly longer handle length. I am fine with the hand purchase, but could have been made "better" subjective I know, with that.

I am not a fan of how it feels in hand. But I would have modified it a bit or gotten Micarta handle scales if the action was ok and the grind had been symmetrical. But as it stands....I prefer the LW

It's been out for some time now...They have it in many different steels...Maybe I got a "lemon". But so far I have gotten a few too many asymmetrical grinds and a few too many "to stiff/to loose" action. If you're looking for something similar to this, but better...the Para3 LW is more comfortable(they do have a problem with centering of the blade, not an issue for me) or the Sage series. My wife has a Sage 5 LW and I must say...i was very impressed with that one!

Oh yes...I have looked at the Kapara... if you like such shapes, and I do.... I looked at it a while back. I like the scales and the red spacer. Gives it something extra. In due time...and when it'll be in stock....that one is not on the top of my list, mainly because of the price...but I can't say I am not curious! But then again...i do have an addiction.... :))

@@SpartanJohns If interested watch bearded gear's review of the Kapara. Quite in depth.

Thanks Dennis! Glad you liked the video! I think that was what most people wanted...a smaller version of the PM2. This was what my wife wanted and why i recommended she tried this one. However...i feel like they "half assed" it. Not a bad knife but why not put more thought into it. Give the Para3 what people liked with the PM2 and a bit more. The Para3LW is a much better. I know you like the PM2...so if you're thinking about a smaller version you might consider Para3LW. That'll be the next video! Knowing you have the UKPK with BD1N you already know the steel of the Para 3 LW and the blade length for the Para 3s are the same as with the mini bugout. Just thought you might find these infos useful and relatable, if you're considering the Para3's. VG, Denis

@@SpartanJohns Thanks for the large response. I think in general that the bugout is the better knife. Anyway the PM2 is also a great knife with a lot of afford. I like the new micarta version, because the micarta is nice ans soft. But I will make a review of this knife after testing it some month.

I have had a Spyderco Tenacious "back in the day". Good knife...but not really to my liking. Now I have a Tenacious LW. I wanted to like it! I swear I did! I like Spyderco's FRN pattern. However I feel like they had a chance to improve uppon it and didn't. Not talking about the steel. That's fine. For edc and quick sharpening...all good. But the action on mine....terrible. Either ok action with bladeplay or no bladeplay and very stiff. And at this point I am not considering I am just "unlucky" as I got so many models with assymetrical grinds and bad action. I think others might be lucky that they didn't and the majority are lacking in QC. As for the Resilience....I have thought about it! you can tell I am not the biggest fan of the Tenacious series...but I never had the Resilience..and I have been ogling the Resilience LW.

@@SpartanJohns Yeah if I had one complaint about the Resilience LW is like your Tenacious the action is too stiff when new. I think it's getting smoother as time goes by though

I had mine for a couple of years now. Carried it and tried to use it as much as possible to see if that will change. It hasn’t so far. The 2 and 3 washer system they used was not a smart move, from my pov

I get that...the steep prices are what keeps me from pulling the trigger on some more "exotic" steels. I like the idea behind the Para 3...and if I would like it a bit more I would probably sand the scales down a bit to ake it more comfortable...but as the Para3 LW is more comfortable than the Para 3, and I don't mind blade centering(like you don't mind a slight bladeplay) i prefer that one. And the BD1N is ok for me. I don't mind sharpening more often if I don;t have to put so much effort into it or use expensive stones.

@@SpartanJohns That was the thing, with the CruWear on this knife, I didn't really put too much effort into the sharpening process - I was pretty surprised actually how quickly it came back to razor sharp. I really only use this knife for quick cuts, etc....if I had to use it for 20 minutes straight and/or harder use tasks, I'd choose something more "substantial". My Cold Steel AD-10 is prob my favorite folder in regard to ergos, comfort and overall toughness....but not something I'm usually gonna carry around town (but I do in the wilderness).

I think that for prolong use this would be a bit uncomfortable in hand, unless you adjust the scales a bit. I have been looking at the AD10. But decided, out of curiosity and due to cost, to go with the 4MaxScout... But...yeah...the AD10 is still on my list...

@@SpartanJohns I got a halfway decent price on my AD-10 last year (I think around $140), so I jumped on it....$170+ is a bit much, but considering the package I'd still pay it. I don't think you'd be disappointed with it.

it costs about 150 EUR around here...I like the model and after having and using the 4MaxScout for so long...i can't say I'm not curious.

My wife currently has a Sage 5 LW. I clean and sharpen it regularly(and play with it from time to time). I wanted to get the Sage 5 CF for her but it was not available at the time. The LW is great! Much more comfortable for cutting and the action is fantastic. I have the Sage 1(an older one) and the action is great on that one too. I think the Para 3, with a bit of thought put into it, could have been a really great knife.

there are many ways to set up the blade so that the action is smooth. I expected, even if they do not use the same system, or when they do...to have a good action on every model. these aren't really "budgget models"

I can't say I like or don't like thumbstuds. I surely am no fan of thumbstuds when i have to sharpen a knife in a small edge angle, or when they get in the way (like on the Finn Wolf) but then again when cutting cardboard the spyderhole can be a nuisance. As for the compression lock....I prefer it to the liner lock, except for some cases when it can be uncomfortable in hand because the gap is too big....(most cases actually), especially when you're cutting harder materials. I have to say I like the comp lock but it is 3rd place for me...after the very fidget(and abuse) friendly axis lock and the very safe/stable tri-ad lock. Well... when it comes to the Shaman...I would have to say: Trust your instinct! Not to give anything away...but I have a Shaman and...I feel like people reviewed what it was supposed to be as opposed to what it really is. It's comfortable in hand and stable...the action is good(similar to the PM2)...but then there's the rest....If it would be 100$ i would say: go for it! But as it is not....I would say, like I just did: trust your first instinct.

I do as well. Tomorrow or the day after I will publish my thoughts on the LW> Right now I gave my patrons a "sneak peak". TBH...i have almost no issues with the LW. I was even considering getting an upgrade in steel(which I rarely do) but they are a bit hard to find and a bit expensive....The standard version however...very well done for edc, jmo

@@SpartanJohns this is what user experience is all about! Thanks for the feedback.

I had the chance to hold a Para3 when they came out. That one had good action. TBH i would chose the Sage 5(LW) anyday over the Para 3. I am a bit miffed about the action and the asymmetrical grind. I never had a Native 5 G10. I have an older model(440V pinned) and a Native Salt. The action and comfort on the Salt Native compared to the other one i have is kinda bad....

I have no intention in selling mine. I have it since 2011...i am way to attached to it. Plus....who would buy mine? it has been used for years...sharpened tens of times....

I am glad you found something you like! Each hand is different and everybody has a different approach to working with a specific tool!

Eu am avut un Tenacious(G10) acum mult timp. Era ok...dar nu mi-a placut datorita faptului ca atatia oameni l-au facut sa para mai mult decat era. Acum am un tenacious LW. Acesta are 2 si 3 saibe subtiri...se misca f greu. ori are joc lateral ori e prea strans. Eu il tin prea strans. Problema asta nu e doar la modelele din China. E la toate care nu sunt facute sa aiba o iscare buna. De exemplu Sage 5 LW are o constructie care il face sa aiba o miscare fina fara joc lateral. E facut in Taiwan Taichung. Din pacate, mi se pare mie, multi nu mentioneaza chestiile astea pe youtube. Ori nu lucreaza cu ele ori nu vor sa spuna pt ca sa nu creeze o imagine rea despre produs. Din cauza asta cand utilizatorii au o problema(cum ai avut tu) ei dau vina pe ei, cum au lucrat, cum au strans, ce alegerea au facut, si nu pe controlul calitatii care e tot mai slab la firmele mari. Tenacious e un model interesant. Am vazut si care miscau bine....eu sunt de parere ca fiecare Spyderco ar trebui sa miste bine si ca o firma atat de mare ar tebui sa aiba un CTC mult mai bun.

Well...yeah! And TBH i have no issues with the steel. I would like something better but the BD1N is ok for most things I would need a pocket knife for.

@@SpartanJohns It's a real bummer that a lot of the sprint runs they do are vendor exclusives. Too hard/expensive to get your hands on outside the US.

Some of them look very cool and have interesting steels or handle materials….

the modified one? with the thinner grind? what exactly would you like to know about it?

Yes...they are very expensive! I like my PM2. Had it for about 11 years now. It is difficult to say: You will love it! It really depends on how comfortable it will be in your hand. I like mine! I paid about 110$ back in 2011 and can say it was worth it for me. But if I had to pay 200$(EUR) now for one..I am not sure I would get one

@@SpartanJohns and what would you get for 200? And what you suggest for a small knife,delica and what other?

@@blackhole6834 For 200...I just got the Caribbean. But honestly...if you're just working with a knife...i don't think it makes a lot of sense to go past 100. Small knives...depends what you want. Personally, I think the Chaparral(FRN-is the one I have) is great. Good steel, good HT, thin grind, good construction, slim, wire clip). And if you do like the Para3 model...hae a look at the Para3 LW

well...yeah...they make great tools. But as I mentioned, i got this one for my wife. She is not a CS fan. Can't work the backlocks too well. As for me...I am playing around with the CS Ultimate Hunter every day a bit more...and i must say: I am impressed so far. Haven't done actual work with it(cut something for more than 5-10 minutes....but i am working up to that)

way to many lemons in this garden.

I used to only like bigger knives. Nowadays I started liking smaller ones. Not sure why exactly. For me it's not the size that bothers me, I have the LW and will publish a video about that soon, same size... The Para 3 is ....i think it could be improved. I also don't quite get how so many people like them and prefer them. My wife has small hands and she thought this was uncomfortable.

Din pacate cu unele modele....mai dau ei gres. Grind-uri asimetrice, nu misca chiar ok. Cand dai 20-50$ poate mai accepti. Dar, cred eu, cand trece de pragul de 80$ eu cred ca e inacceptabil sa aiba asemenea probleme. Varfurile de la modelele saber-grind sunt destul de rezistente. Eu nu prea "sap" cu varful dar am mai facut una-alta si pana acum nu am rupt nici un varf. Daca vrei un varf solid iti sugerez sa te uiti la Cold Steel. Au multe modele cu varfuri foarte rezistente. Dar un varf rezstent inseamna din pacate: gros si de obicei drop point. Air Lite e un model cu varf solid si e un "mid range" as zice eu.

@@SpartanJohns Multam pt info, am notat... Nu stiam ca Spyderco face greseli de acest gen - grind asimetric- in conditiile in care pana si chinezii vad ca au ridicat standardul, e diferenta clara de pret intre ganzo si civivi dar si de calitate... Si ai perfecta dreptate, cand platesti peste 10 mil nu prea iti convine.... Si mie imi place coldsteel.....tu le cumperi direct de dincolo sau din romania? ( sunt unii care mai vand cs dar am impresia ca vand ce le ramane pe stock, asa miam luat prolite....)

dupa cateva experiente neplacute am decis ca nu mai cumpar din Romania. Si am inceput sa nu mai cumpar nici SH-uri. CTC-ul a scazut la foarte multe firme. Nu ca era fantastic in trecut....Unele chestii pot fi corectate...dar daca treci de 100$ nu cred ca ar trebui sa corectezi chestii....cred ca totul ar trebui sa fie 100%... Firmele care vand in romania au adaos super mare. Si in plus...sunt foarte putini care au un customer service bun. Sincer...din cat contact am avut cu firmele din romania doar elenterna a fost 100% ok. Au mai fost si altii...dar cu timpul, a scazut calitatea...produselor sau a serviciilor. Eu nu suport sa primesc altceva decat am comandat dupa care sa trebuiasca eu sa trimit inapoi si sa mai astept din nou pana primesc ce de fapt am comandat....am patit asta des... Am patit asta si cu firme de afara....dar raspunsul lor a fost: sorry for the inconvenience, keep it, we'll resend your initial order. Ceea ce mi-a sters instant ridurile de pe fatza!

@@SpartanJohns Am patit si eu asta cu firmele din Ro, si de asta nu mai am incredere sa cumpar - mai ales cutite de firma serioasa....pt ca la chinezarii petarde am vazut ca nus prob.... Cei de la elanterna sunt corecti - pana acum cel putin, am luat vreo 6 produse de la ei si au fost ok.... Am obs ca nu mai obtin acelasi tais pe stropul clasic cu piele, spre deosebire de stropul MDF cu pasta abraziva......adica pe MDF obtin un tais mai ascutit fata de piele, si ma mir un pic, este aceeasi pasta abraziva doar suport diferit.... Tu ce pasta folosesti, tot white compound de la Bark river? Si ce rutina la strop/finisare?

Eu folosesc tot pasta alba de la brkt. Doar pe aia o am. Am incercat si pe lemn de balsa. Dar sincer doar pasta alba pe o bucata de piele fara denivelari e cam tot ce am eu nevoie. Cu asta pot obtine taslisuri de care eu sunt multumit. Ce e mai important, dpmdv, e presiunea pe care o aplici si unghiul pe care il tii cand dai pe strop. Mdf nu am folosit. Probabil obtii un tais mai ascutit pt ca e suprafata mai ferma si esti mai atent la unghi. Pielea are un pic de “give” si daca apesi mai tare probabil rotunjesti un pic taisul.

TBH i have had the opportunity to hold a para 3 when they came out. That one had a better action. So I was a bit surprised how this one was. I like the idea of the Para 3 however i heel like they did it more for the quick profit, banking on how great the PM2 was. If it would have better action and a symmetrical grind I might have considered trying to round off the scales a bit to make it more comfortable

@@SpartanJohns I'm thinking that maybe you just got a bad example. Either that, or Quality Control on this model isn't consistent for some reason. I'm very happy with mine. Although i have to admit, i have experienced zero difference between S30V and S110V as far as performance and ease of sharpening. I will probably not pay the price difference again.

I have gotten quite a few Spyderco's with asymmetrical grinds, bad action...so at this point I am seriously considering that those who actually get good models are the lucky few and the rest....most think they were unlucky but are actually the majority