Leveler is the same thing as mortar just a different product accomplishes the same thing if you're good at it so do whatever you're comfortable with just make the floor perfectly level and it'll be awesome

No you do not fill the hole in ever if it was a concrete slab it would stay a hole and if it's a wood floor it stays a hole that's just where you put the plumbing it works out perfectly fine also no you do not need to glue down the base is being held down by a Fastener at every single stud And the plumbing drain connection and then you seal the pan to the walls when they're done and then you seal the front of the pan to the floor when it's done in the front so water doesn't get between the shower pan and floor seam With all that that thing is locked in for life

Yes you can actually go all the way up to just where it comes out of the shower pan flush and level with that lip That's plenty

Mike, I am doing the same thing,. upgrading my basement shower. Right now I am leveling the floor. I did not have the shower base in place yet.

​@@TUDIU I'm just finishing off mine now. I hired a plumber 10 years ago to put in a tub surround because I didn't feel comfortable breaking concrete to install a new drain. Fast forward 10 or so years and now my mother in law is too frail it get into a tub and wants a walk in shower. Got a couple quotes, Home Depot linked contractor wanted 7500 but couldn't do it till mid August. A bathfitter type company wanted 15,000 ! I couldn't believe it. Once I did the demo I noticed the plumber didn't put in a P trap and none of the plumbing or shower valve was secure. So much for for hiring a professional. Under the tub it wasn't level so my initial plan was to install was to put down 1/2 concrete board and lay the pan on top. This pan ( Olympia Maxx?) was specifically designed to sit on a flat floor without concrete. I sent the wife to home Depot and she came back with 1/4 tile backer board 🙄 . Although I had misgivings I cemented that down to the concrete and it actually turned out pretty good. I had a nice flat, level base for the pan. With the P trap I just had enough room with 1 1/2 ABS to make the bend from the shower drain to the drain pipe. Dodge a bullet there. Anyway good luck on your install Mike

Wish I didn't read your comment first lol

If you have any issues let me know I'll be glad to walk you through them as you get moving

If you are referring to the hole in the drain area No Nobody stands on the drain If the drains in the middle of the pan then yes you should get a secure as possible But if it's on the left or the right side then it doesn't matter nobody gets that close to the wall when they're taking a shower You want to mainly secure everywhere that people are going to be stepping

It’s a right side drain - But I’m still concerned - I just realized I can’t send a picture photo response

Yes text me a video 541-660-7805 Or pics

Yes use mortar to make it perfectly secure and level and hard I use expanding foam instead of mortar but to each his own

I have the exact same questions! ​ @Jon Hughes

Me too

I never backfill that hole It usually is not accessed by any humans because it's so far away from where they stand If it turned out you had a center drain Then I would double check and triple check that my plumbing is correct and set in the right spot and then back fill it with dry pack mortar Because wherever humans step even though they have naked feet There still is 100 lb on each foot But whenl they're on the left side or the right side humans can't really step over the hole it's too close to the wall so there's no reason to fill it

Yeah get everything else as supported as possible whichever way you decide to do it and don't worry about that it never breaks through right there when every where else is solid very few people stand right in the drain you always stand back a few inches and it's solid there If it was a giant hole way bigger than that you could always put a shower extension on the head so people are forced to stand back one foot from the edge

AMP is the ticket until further notice the silicone just will not stick to acrylic at all and AMP seems to stick I set all my bases in foam I have other videos that show that It works perfectly

Run through my hole set a videos and see if you find something in there you can utilize If you don't just let me know I'll walk you through any issue

Damn spell checker...ugh

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing: www.homedepot.com/p/FlexStone-Royale-36-in-x-60-in-x-80-in-11-Piece-Easy-Up-Adhesive-Alcove-Bathtub-Shower-Wall-Surround-in-Calacatta-White-SSK60367831CW/304669705

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing: www.homedepot.com/p/MOEN-Brecklyn-Single-Handle-6-Spray-Tub-Shower-Faucet-w-Magnetix-Rainshower-in-Spot-Resist-Brushed-Nickel-Valve-Included-82611SRN/306659560

Yeah the Walls are the flexstone products at home Depot there's 21 different styles they are totally awesome

I'm having a hard time following what you're saying brother I'd be glad to help you but I don't know what you're asking

@@JonehughesThank you for the response. At minute 3:40 you show the gaps between the wall stud and the shower pan. I am interested to know how you dealt with the gap, so that the pan is flush with the wood.

Okay I know what you're talking about now thank you for giving me the timeline on the video so I could look back at it anyway, you put in your plumbing based on your cardboard setup You don't worry about any of your studs at all You just get it hooked up to your base based on the way your base sitting the way you wanted it sitting okay you're the one that determines where it went and so we put it all the way up against the back wall and then slid it up against the plumbing wall and that's the way we decided it was best in there It could have been some other way if there are other confluences but there was not just the ones I presented on the video so that's the way we did it You may do it differently based on your situation but regardless once you've determine where your pans going to be once you sit it there dry fit and you determine that's the best place for it to be then you mark the cardboard once you mark the cardboard You are locked in you're going to set your plumbing based on the cardboard and then once you pull the cardboard off and make your connection the plumbing is all totally set and you're all dialed in then you're going to shim the pan to the wall and that just means use wood shims stick them in there till they're nice and tight and everything's perfect throw a screw through it after you pre-drill the hole and then use an oscillating tool or sawzall or whatever oscillating tool is the most safe tool and cut off the extra shims and then your wallboard or whatever you're going to use for your subpanel will go right down to the shower base flange if I didn't make myself really clear here feel free to ask another question brother I'm just answering what I think is your question

@@Jonehughes Thank you for the detailed response. I understand now.

Pretty much nowadays all I do is go through home Depot and get Flexstone Nine piece or 11 piece depending on what I'm doing Whole bunch of flavors It is a fantastic product Super durable Totally trick looking Zero maintenance Fantastic Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing: www.homedepot.com/p/FlexStone-Royale-36-in-x-60-in-x-80-in-11-Piece-Easy-Up-Adhesive-Alcove-Bathtub-Shower-Wall-Surround-in-Calypso-SSK60367831CP/310289714

@@Jonehughes Thank you. I have the exact same project coming up and am having a hard time making a choice on both the wall system and the base, a 32 x 60 shower pan and some kind of wall system that can be installed quickly and get someone's bathroom back working in a short time frame and without breaking the bank. Edit, I think you helped me make a choice.

Sorry Peter I'm old brother🤣😂 I usually leave that detail out because you never know if you're going to have to lift the floor through shimming or mortar or foam or leveling all kinds of different reasons for bringing up the base so I don't want to tell anybody any particular measurement what I would suggest is when you have your base perfectly level and set exactly where it's going to be when you're all finished have your shower drain already affixed and glued in to your shower pan and then set it down over the pipe it sets down easily because it doesn't have the rubber or lock ring in there yet and you want it to come up to about a quarter inch from the top of the drain so water will fly right over the drain edge and right into the pipe after you put in the Rubber and lock ring in

I called delta and they told me the drain has to be 1 3/4" above sub floor. Your video is very informative and was very helpful but we had a leak and I'm wondering if it was because we put the drain pipe flush with the floor.

Yeah... there's no way for that system to leak unless you didn't seal it correctly with the proper sealant the only one allowed now is amp by dap it used to be 3.0 but they did away with that product anything else will leak Because nothing else sticks to acrylic but besides that as soon as you went to put in your rubber and your lock ring you would have seen that your pipe was way too low and it would not have worked at all and so that would have told you to raise it up if that was the problem

You are hilarious I agree with everything you said Almost always they are put like this though It doesn't make sense But also As far as for me Every time I put in a shower And have to run the line I install a water circulator So they have instant hot water And they have a wand So they can rinse off their junk much more easily So when you get in You simply grab the wand Hold it towards the wall Turn on the water Adjust to heat you like And put the wand back up on the rack Do yourself a favor Cut up the stick for firewood Install a water circulator Get a wand water pic or some other such one And your wife will be happy And with a happy wife it's a happy life

You have to measure yours they're all different cuz it all depends on how level the floor is and how much you have to raise the pan to get the floor level after the floor is all leveled out and the pan is set on it and it's all level then measure up to the bottom of the pan

@@Jonehughes so up to bottom of pan once all else checks out?

If you're putting on some kind of wall system and not an actual surround for the Delta classic 400 then your wall should come down up too but not past the top edge of the shower pan Watch my other videos it gives you a closer look

So the drywall comes to top of the flange and then as well as a panel surround and then just caulk around like you would a regular tub?

It sounds like you're not understanding what I'm saying and it's very possible I didn't make myself clear text me J O N 541-660-7805 I'll send pics and illustrations I can't do it through the KZfaq replies it doesn't work I can't send you pics I can't send anything valuable I can only talk and verbiage is not doing it

If you're not going to text me so I can reply with pictures and stuff at least tell me that you know not to use silicone Silicone does not stick to acrylic at all Only three products stick to acrylic it used to be dap 3.0 but they no longer make that so it's dap amp And your panels go all the way down Past the drywall to rest on the shower pan

No there's absolutely no reason for it water cannot penetrate the classic 400 acrylic you'll notice if you get it it is so strong it is literally impervious to water

What questions did you have brother if I didn't answer something I'd be glad to Text me at 541-660-7805 with pics if you have them

@@Jonehughes ty

The natural gap between the stud he talks about at 4:26 says to use a shim

That should definitely never happen

Go to my page and you can see five or six different ones