Using ring end gap to check cylinder taper as well checking ring end gap at top , middle and bottom of cylinder .

Back in tech school almost 25yrs ago , I saw it all from 6 guys manhandling a 4 cylinder in and out of a lifted Datsun , to everything being rebuilt or toyed with in the living rooms of the off campus apartments, you name it it happened. And it hadda be kept low key , we did have inspectors daily and had to keep our rooms clean ,dishes etc so it was a heck of a deal to hide a Ford 9" rear end under your couch. Put a wig and some lipstick on it and putting it in the bed won't work, ask me how I know. Good times.

Brother, you are the 318 encyclopedia of KZfaq. I am very grateful for your content.

I had a complete 440 on engine stand in my living room for 5 years

I can't remember the last time I saw such 'old school' mechanics but it is absolutely refreshing! Well done sir!

Currently have my 5 speed transmission in my house. When it's 20 below outside I prefer to bring the work indoors.

Thank you uncle Tony for the generalized block rebuild series. The nuanced info you are providing compliments the info you'd get from an engine rebuild book. Since this is going to be a series, would you consider adding an episode number in the the thumbnail so we can see at a glance that we're watching these vid's in procedural order?

I always feel like I've learned something watching UTG

Wow, after watching 100's of vidoes on engine building and disassembly I thought I heard everything yet after wathcing your video I leaned so much its unbelievable! Thanks for taking the time to share your experience!!!! What a great reference tool!

I remember years ago my parents went on vacation and left me home alone. That is when I brought my 170ci slant 6 into the family room and overhauled it. I was never found out.

When you have pistons stuck in the block before you destroy them try this (it really works). Get a 2 litre bottle of Coke classic, it has to be coke classic, and pour it in on top of the pistons and let it soak for a day add additional if needled. I told my neighbor to do this because he had tried everything else. He thought I was nuts but what ever. Next day when I got home, he came over and said " don't drink coke ". I asked why. He told me " I let it sit for about 18 hours and thought I would see if it had worked. I bumped the piston with a hammer handle and the piston fell out and hit him on the foot. The rest came out the same way.

I always smooth out oil returns and de-burr the entire block as well as remove any cast flashing too. It's a minimal amount of work for a quality piece when done.

When knocking core plugs out, I was always told to be careful not to hit the cylinders because if you hit them hard enough you can distort the sleeve and put a "dent" in it and ruin the bore job.

I reuse the piston whenever possible too.

Never heard of the light around the rings trick pretty interesting

I'll be following religiously as I have my 6.1 Hemi tore down.

Hey Uncle Tony, you can add the videos from this series to an KZfaq playlist, it will be easier to follow up and sometimes the YT algorithm suggests it to viewers so you may get extra viewcount

Love this series! I’d love to tackle an engine rebuild one day, but am also without a garage. I’m currently rebuilding a transmission and transfer case in my basement though!

I have always hot tanked the engines I have rebuilt and knock on wood I have never had issues with cam bearings at all

People need to encourage All OldSchoolerzzz to start making videos. We are not getting younger and so much info lost or not practiced much.

I see the PB Blaster on your workbench. Check out Project Farms video on penetrating oils. Blaster was less effective than standard WD-40. Liquid Wrench easily came out on top.

I'm digging this garage series!

Tony is doing the world a service in sharing his knowledge. Thank you.

Good adive for the new to intermediate guys. But it is always nice to know someone else's take on it!!! You never stop learning!!!

Love your videos. Absolute real car talk and tricks from the old school.

Thanks Tony. Been working on and reading about these engines for 40 years and I still learn something from you .

This series is gonna be amazing!!!

Thanks for this series, UTG. I'm planning to rebuild a tractor engine this spring, so I'm watching and taking notes.

Check your LA block for a rebuilt engine tag to see if its already been overbored and to what degree and if the crank has been cut. Always figure all these specs in to your plans.

This should be a great series! Make us proud Tony! 🤘🏼🔧

Steve from Annapolis keep up the good work you are outstanding you care about people you're a genius I thought I knew a lot a little trick of the trades you're really good with your hands please keep up the good work not many guys like you and me at there anymore Steve from Annapolis

Fantastic series Tony- looking forward to the rest!

Great video can't wait for the next episode

Really psyched your doing this rebuild! I’ll be paying close attention

This video was really good. Will stay tuned for more!

Thanx for your advices

.03 overbore adds 5cid, generally, and .06 adds 10 cid. Its always more about ring seal and ring ridge than displacement or unshrouding a valve.

Thank you

Uncle Tony is the best. I was looking forward to watching the crankshaft video. I think I will have to wait.

Right on

Really enjoying this. Thank you.

5:54, Thanks for that info.

Great video Tony I never use silicon on core plugs mainly because there was no silicone when I started working on engines and life was good

Good info, thanks for this series. TP

TONEY U HAVED HELPED ME OUT OF A JAM...THANKS

This is great general info UT. Almost finished a rebuild on a little Vauxhall slant-4 2.0 litre, had to have crank reground and head skimmed. Getting stuff for old GM Vauxhalls over here is a challenge, and they were built here! Wish we could just buy parts off the shelf 😯

I went to a "head shop" in Birmingham Al. like back in 1998 with an old inline 6 head i salvaged from a donor motor. (My old one had cracked).I asked them to shave, port and polish it for me. The guy tells me they can shave it but.. They don't "port and polish". And this was a place that exclusively worked on cylinder heads. I wound up taking it to a machine shop that did just about everytning u can think of with metal stuff and they were able to get it done, ready for pickup the next day. It looked like a brand new head. Had some sort of lubricant on it and plastic wrapped.. Lol, it looked so good that I couldnt bring myself to put it on my old greasy engine so i wound up steam cleaning the motor and painted every thing with engine paint including the engine well.. I ended up with an old beat up work van that had the best looking motor and engine bay around lol.

Great stuff

18:00 Haha who's ever torn an engine down, popped out a freeze plug and you find another in the hole 🤣

Great video Uncle Tony!👍 Great camera work Uncle Kathy!👍

Can't watch now but saved for when I get a sec. Thank

I'm with you on cam bearings, if they're good leave them alone. However I love a hot tank if the cooling system is real nasty. If you choose to do this however, YOU must wash the hell out of the block yourself, the machine shop will not do a satisfactory job on this. I know U.T. knows this already, just trying to help.my 225 Buick is undergoing a similar rebuild. Thanks Tony!

The legend Tony Defeo will live on, like an italian automotive Nietzsche.

Still the best channel on KZfaq hands down

I wish I lived closer I would love to give you a hand building that beasts I would love to learn from the master uncle Tony

Good Stuff, Tony...I learned..,TY

man... I Love this guy!!!

I KNEW that buzzing sound @ 1:10 sounded familiar and sure enough, you reached over and flipped the switch on Mr. Heater! It was a balmy 9 degrees here last night and my 125k btu heater was very happy about that. I run him on diesel.

Great video Thank you!!!

Well said

Always loads of great info here! Thank U! Research engine shops prior to leaving ur engine there. Have had some nightmarish dealings with bad machinist that are betting you won't double check their work prior to re assembly! Some things ok for running errands..but not for high power performance. Let the machinist know what ur planning on building. Typically they can offer a lot of assistance..as long as they know what they're doing that is

Definitely good notes for this, especially for my dad who is about to rebuild a 318, hopefully he took notes

The average youtube viewer at 1 minute: "Wow! This is just what I was looking for!" Minute 5: "Pretty good." Minute 10 listening from kitchen, grabbing some chips: "Okay." Minute 15: "Squirrel!!!"

Great video ! This is the info I’ve been looking for for a while now.

Good stuff pop

Just found this series, and had to say thanks. Takes me way back to rebuilding a Kawasaki 450-4 complete motorcycle from a bunch of milk crates full of parts in an apartment bedroom. The things you do when you're financially challenged.

great job!! one add ...it helps to have pad and paper or better yet a cheap little notebook for each engine. Make a lotta notes, check list of what you did like #1 checked left deck, #2 checked left bores, etc. Not so critical at this stage but when you start with the micrometer readings gotta have a table can't tell you how many times I had to remeasure the first time I mic'd a crank

This is a great series so far. After many “barn rebuilds” I’m already seeing where we’ve wasted money in the past. Let’s get back to the ol’ days where all us gear heads worked on junk in driveways with zero budget.

I have learned so much watching your videos, but I know the great ones, always make things look easy LOL

1967 forged crank 318. Nice!

Tony, your practical knowledge is astounding........thanks!

Thank you guys..I have bought three cars from the 50s. 2 have 302s and one has a 327..I am going to endeavor to build a 302.I have replaced every part of an outside of the motor but never tore one down past the Timing Chain and gears or the heads. Im getting older and looking for an old man hobby so I bought three life size model cars,,,

Love to see you demonstrate truing a head on a marble slab and wet and paper I've done several atv and dirt bike heads it works on a small head but never seen anyone try a large head

You're awesome!

I swear one day he is going to blow himself up!

I remember freeing up a 383 once when I was an early teen ..... mouse milk , maple hearts and a 5lb sledge

Good Stuff!!!!!!!!!!!

Imagine if tony dropped 4 or 5 20 min vids in one day. I wouldn't get any work done

When it comes to the crank bore. I look at the wear on the main bearings as I am disassembling the engine. I make sure to keep the bearings in the caps and put them back in place to look at the wear pattern. If you find a spot of wear on the upper bearing it usually indicates that it needs a line hone. If everything looks good then don't touch it.

Nice video. Not every motor has to be a full tilt expense at the machine shop. Good low budget methods.

You are great Tony. Talk about the rear cam plug, lifter bores, pipe cleaning brushes and all the pipe plugs, high volume oil pump. Is the high volume oil pump needed? More torque on the factory hex shaft. Talk ring clearances, Rod and Main Clearances.

Thanks as always for the free info, Good series to start.. Keep at It . OI OI OI

I was waiting for the measurement of the ring gap in that old ring to check for taper and such...It had to be an 1/8th".!!..Pretty well worn I'd say Tony...

Uncle Tony, Mcclouds auto salvage in Portland tn has a couple of slant 6 engines but I don't know the size one is in a 67 belvedere convertible that is being parted out

Line hone if using arp main studs

I’m going to try shackletts too.

I've checked blocks the same way. I use a square pane on tempered glass with a full sheet off emery cloth.

I love your videos and this one, i wish my school didnt cancel autobody

You can get the block decked to raise compression you zero the deck to the top of the cylinder that way you are bringing the piston closer to the head to raise compression for the one's who want to raise the compression without changing the pistons or heads

Called out the machine shop so now I gotta say something. When someone brings me an engine, my main deciding factors on what we’re gonna do to it are what the engine needs to run again, the horsepower expectations, and how much money the customer is willing to spend. Just last week I had a 2JZ dropped off that’s gonna make 1,000+hp. I’m gonna make that block absolutely perfect. Also, a 300 I6 Ford that this poor gentleman just wants back in his work truck. I’m gonna do the bare minimum and replace the bare minimum. I’ll note that my bare minimum is higher than the garage build because it’s a professional shop after all, can’t cut corners, but I’m never pushing work that doesn’t need to be done.

I know you mentioned that you know that most Chrysler stuff handles a .060 over, but with sonic checking and some luck you can hog a 318 to the 340 bore (3.91-4.04) at which point 4.04 + 3.58(360 stroke and are made with 318/340 mains) = one nasty small block combo

Back in the day pistons were knurled after a big honing. Piston sides would be waffled to displace material and increase the OD. While moving the rings around with a feeler gauge check the gap.Measure the top, middle and bottom. If you have 005 difference between you should consider how rich you are. Rod angularity may cause more wear in the center.

Love this! Yes I'm a tree man and I often have to remind myself does this work need to be done to this tree or do I just have a 🔨 great insite.

That motor looks like it is from the 60'swith the red paint and the look of the piston tops with the valve reliefs looks like a couple of 64 2 barrel Dart 273's I built in 1970 when 340's cost too much if you could even find them

Tony´s comments are always briljant: "the machine shop have never meet a surface that not needs to be redone" :D

Since some posters asked and I have my book out to look...check the ID pad by the front of the valley cover on your small block Mope. An "A" at the end means it was overbored .02o at the factory rather than get sent back to the forge. A "B" means mains/rods are .01 inch undersize. An iron cross means crank journals are .001 inch undersize (number 3 counterweight will have an R or M for rod or main). A four sided diamond means the lifter bore is .008 oversize.

What about all the grit you left on the cylinder wall from using the honer don't you want to clean the cylinder out good before checking for taper with a ring? and should that be done if your getting it bored out?

3M Yellow weather stripping adhesive in the sqeeze tube works great to seal freeze plugs . just make sure to clean the block surfaces that the plugs go into and let adhesive fully cure befor adding coolant to the block

Uncle Tony uses gasoline on an engine like I use Italian dressing on my chicken salad 😆

I know you went over which were the best slant 6 engines to get, but I don't remember if you went over which were the best years to look for with the 318s in the bone yard. thanks again guys!