complete explation, the best

I didn't quite know what to look for, this explation is probably the best on KZfaq imo

Yes, the shark really cleared things up for me.

Explationary

@@zachc5456 Soon I'll be moving to Australia so I can become an Ex-plat

Absolutely agree

In all fairness they probably don't have them long enough to actually wear anything out like the rest of us.

Yeah fair point

You said it !!

Glad you like the vid. Cheers from Australia to you there in Texas!

@@stevenleffanue Single speed. Any chain, worn or not. Works.

Totally agree with you.

Yes,rotating 2 or more chains is a good method too.

Love this tip. Makes sense too! Took off my chain and saw visable wear. Decided to swap it before it put wear on the cassette.

Yes thats good practice to check in multiple places on the chain.

Nice to hear your on a bike then Ronald 😁. Sounds like rings or crankset needs replacing and following what you say,probarbly the chain and cogset also...maybe thats why it was a freebee? Greetings from Australia too 😎

oz cycle I am very happy to be riding again. I forgot how enjoyable it was. It's a Gary Fisher (China). Somebody did some upgrades on the bike I do believe. The front rings seem to riveted on (Suntour). Plus the bottom bracket has play in it. Probably new crank set and chain. If I have the correct language/description. Maybe that is why they gave it to me? Hahaha! Probably! Hopefully not too expensive?

no, because your pedaling, you are not electric motor

Cheapest .5% tool is "Unior" from Merlin or Chainreaction. Park is next cheapest.

Hi, wish I had seen this earlier. I see your point, but I do not agree this is a serious flaw. Other experts suggest elongation measures with rulers even on an entire chain are likely incorrect, "as they miss the wear from the rollers", see ZeroFrictionCycling in zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Chain-Longevity-Testing-Full-test-brief.pdf . To nit pick, the measures are pin to bush, bush to roller, as rollers run on the bushes not the pins; i fully acknowledge this is not fair as it does not diminish your argument. Wear from rollers impacts the life of the chain too. In the tool case they measure only 2 link roller/bushing sets of the 11 measured (eg ParkTool CC-2, which is 18% of the rollers) not all of them, but i get the point that what matters is the pin to pin as that is what hits the cogs. But the longer the tool (eg ParkTool CC-3.2 is longer than CC-2 so less than 18% of rollers are measured) the smaller the impact. In the ruler method, to be accurate you would need to pull the chain off and measure it in entirety and then measure segments as some segments of the chain will wear differently; this segment issue is key to why the tools are viable. The additional (very minor) wear of the rollers may be ignored as it allows us to avoid reaching the 0.5% wear point, which is the damage point and we can quickly and easily measure 3-4 locations on the chain much faster and probably more accurately than holding up a ruler and measuring by eye; a digital measuring device may solve that for those of us with age related eye deterioration. So the ruler method has accuracy issues too as it is by eye for what is a very small measure (0.5%) but more than that, it has inconvenience issues and that makes it less desirable. Easy to use the tool and in many places whilst the chain is on the bike. I am saying yes your point is valid, but the convenience and frankly minor over read makes the tool superior as it will get done and more and often.

@@Desmo500 Hi there! Thanks for this reply. i think both you and the author of that zero-friction article agree that the ruler method is accurate. I think most of the point in the article and in your note is that the ruler method is hard to do. I don't agree with that -- it is very easy to see 1/16 and 1/32 or 1.5mm and 3.0mm of wear-related elongation over 24 links with corrected vision, and it's soooo simple to do. You can just line up a student's ruler against the chain. I line up the one-inch mark against the leading edge of a plate, and bang, you've checked a nice 24-pin span at the 13 inch mark. None of the 0.1mm that the article mentions. There's an even easier way if you have a retractable measuring tape using the hook at the end on the leading edge of a plate, but I didn't mention it b/c it requires a measuring tape in good condition. I also just tried using a ruler with my phone's magnifying-glass feature, and that was very easy as well. In mm land (lucky!), you might want to put a pen mark so you don't have to convert from 12in every time. In any case, even a beginner to the process can do the measurement in 30 seconds, easy. Also, the rollers wear evenly enough that the pin-to-pin measurement is sufficient and gives an accurate measure of how hard the chain is being on the sprocket teeth. You mention that the roller clearance does get measured twice by the tool, which is magnified since the tool is only measuring a small number of links, but that this doesn't hurt anything b/c you only reject a chain early (I agree that this is the lesser of the two kinds of bad readings), and that the tolerances can be tight or loose. It's been a while, but I know that Regina chains could be nearly out of spec when they were new b/c of large roller inner diameters. Why bother with the inaccuracy? And why not the Shimano tool instead, which has the advantage of being an official-looking tool and doesn't cause the error that the Park tool and others make? We should support the kind of manufacturer that gets things right like that. But really, and I think this is where I have to admit guilt that I am overly passionate about this -- less is more. Most of us already have a ruler on hand, so you don't have to buy anything, and there will be permanently fewer things to deal with. Also, these tips make it all around the world, and in many parts, the money spent on a tool would be better spent on the chain when it's needed. Finally, for the less-bike-focused persons of the world (you know, the type who would likely not an enjoy a dinner party with the two of us as guests), giving a non-tool method might keep them from lugging their machine to the bike shop, which I think is the point of this great video. Have a good season!

Thats exactly what I do Blake, I just didnt mention it in the vid. Cheers

You must be a lightweight rider Hardi?

I have heard that the chain wear tools have that possible flaw where the chain links/pins might not be stretched enough, but the rollers have some play that allows the tool to drop in the chain (a wrong diagnosis of sorts). I haven't experienced it myself, probably because my larger body size and harder pedaling cadence tends to stretch the chain itself more readily. Still, I have been measuring with both a tool and a ruler for sanity check. Both methods have always come to the same results for me so far. I would still replace if the rollers have enough play to allow the wear tool to fit, because the chain could still ride higher on the front/rear sprockets.

Ryan Otte What you said is true. In this video he does not differentiate roller wear from pin and bushing wear. Roller wear does not make the chain longer. Pin and bushing does. The tool he used lets roller wear affect the measurement, which will cause a chain to be replaced early. The Pedro’s chain checker will isolate the pin and bushing wear. Chain Checker Plus II www.amazon.com/dp/B075VR82NN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_92nbFbQ8EJCA4

Glad the vids are a bit better Charles....its really still only to help people not Hollywood anyhow 😎

@@stevenleffanue Yah! The information is really useful. Many times I've had many of same issues you've encountered and it's great to see fixes and work arounds with respect to tools and bike related equipment. I agree with your central focus, but nicer videos also improve the information transfer.

Not too many people ride that do they Eddy?

Mmmmm...you should take that up with Shimano, Calvin,you might get chains under warranty.

You think so? I kind of expect them to write me off as a really bad case of gear-cruncher. For really rough and high torque tours i still prefer my singlespeed converted hardtail