I really love the 2.6 for its lovely sound and torque. You can pull away in 3rd at a crawl. They’re sometimes maligned due to burning exhaust valves but they’re okay if you don’t thrash them and adjust the clearance on schedule. I installed a temp gauge for the head and don’t push it. Great video. Thanks.

LandRover broke Snap-On! Lifetime achievement Love the dedication!

A guy I used to know used to run one of those things , that engine runs like a Swiss watch , super smooth and quiet . The only downside to them is 9 mpg . In Britain that’s not affordable motoring

It's been many yrs since I've seen one of those I remember them clearly the six cylinder had a distinct sound kinda whistling like the more common were the 4 cylinders they were very common where I grew up all 3 types the army and police force used them they even a diesel version too most farmers in our area had one thanks for bringing back fond memories I'll be waiting for more

This is why I’m watching your channel! Love this 6 cylinder engine!

I learned to drive in one of those beast and I still love it. It is a tank and still looks sexy as hell and it was old when we had it. So awesome seeing the old bird

I've had many Land Rovers, including a a LWB Series Station Wagon like this one with the safari roof. The old 2.25 four pot petrol (gas) engine was very tired, and I did consider dropping in the straight six like yours has. They are smooth and sweet, but very big in the engine bay. In the end I put a 2.5 petrol from an early 90, which turned out to be a superb re-power. It ran lovely and with the twin-choke carb it was pretty gutsy compared to the original 2.25, in fact only a few HP less than the V8 but twice the fuel economy. Fit straight in, the only small technicality was the carb needed a cable throttle rather than lever, but that was easy solved.

Nice project! Greetings from Brazil!

My dad had this land rover for 15 years. The 6 cylinders diesel engine had never posed any issue. It is the best land rover engine made by Jaguar Land Rover.

Good luck with the rebuild. I have a 1955 series 1 with the 4 Cyl 2.0L petrol, a learning experience for me when I rebuilt the IOE engine. Great fun sorting the Valve timing without marks.😄. Several companies here in the UK have stock items for these Rover 6 Cyl engines and ship worldwide.

Some hints from a senior engineer: Pistons can sometime be eased out by means of a casserole of boiling engine oil poured over the pistons, (do that outdoors to prevent fire!) wear heavy leather gloves thick clothes and safety goggles too!. Let the oil work for 5 minutes and gently tap the pistons to ease them. First of all the ring wedge in the upper cylinder most be cut away with a special tool before the honing process, then lay the block horizontal and use kerosene in an oilcan, spray on the honing tool, use coarse grit honing stones at first to removed any dirt, then use fine grit stones and very slow speed on the hand drill in order to make the wanted X style surface in each cylinder. Wash the cylinders with a rich soap and dry them finally. -Good luck! HM -senior motor engineer.

I had owned over some years 2 x 1974 Forward Control 110's, fitted with 2,6lt engines. They were ex-military mobile offices, with just the big high empty box over the cab and loadbin... I took it frequently on long road trips around the back gravel roads, camping, and to Land Rover Festivals in South Africa. The only problem I had with any of them, was that the points of one burned. They had very low milage, and were looked after. (Strange, as they were ex- military.) It performed better than my 101 FC V8 that I now own. My 109 Station wagon 2,6 lt did burn a valve at the sixth cylinder, the SU carb gave some sh...pains, but she's running like a Swiss Watch, and 'sweats a bit of power'. I'm hooked on your program, your humour, and dog.. Well done, keep going, you on a fun track, and hooked on Landies. Regards from Hermanus, the Land Rover Capital of South Africa...

Back in the 70's lots of garages in the UK used the pick up version of these recovery vehicles, with a Harvey Frost jib at the back, just had to accept the slow speed, and lack of brakes in reverse

Definitely enjoying!!

Rover built a 3 litre version of the IoE engine, fitted in the P5, its a strong engine and very smooth & torquey, had a weslake head as standard. I've fitted a couple them into six cylinder series model land rovers without problem. If you can find one I'd recommend the swap. Whatever you do good luck with this project. Kind regards from the UK 🇬🇧

Very hard job!

Way to go fellas! This is my kind of project…and the LS, and the camper, and the LR3. Okay I may have a problem.

Интересный двигатель. Не встречал такой

Una Joyitaaa...!!...ji ji ji.. Saludossss

She put up a heck of a fight, but ya got there!

Good luck with this. This could be a Really Useful Vehicle again, patina and a few dents being unlikely to deter, say, a farmer. Or maybe it'd make a great offroad camper or even a works vehicle. I think it's a great project - keeping the repairs affordable and producing something usable and useful.

Nice truck mate

Knock Knock. Who's There? Cylinder 3

Got me SOLD on the subscription dude! That a badass toy there! Just found you, Hello from Ohio!

I had a 1978 series 3 109 with a 2.6 six pot engine. It would run but knocked like crazy, I hauled it out and put a used 3.5 Rover V8 and matching box in it and it went like stink up to about 65 mph using the 4.7:1 diffs lol . So I put 3.54:1 Range Rover diffs in it and it was a pleasure to drive. I rarely used first gear unless I was towing something

The presentation was kinda wonky but that is probably the way you do videos (first one of yours I have watched) but there was a minimum of music, there was shop noises and there was LOGICAL presentation of, and the application of sound shop processes to remove stubbornly rusted parts from an engine... and air hammers so I am a happy old mechanic...:) Thanks for the ride along and the vicariously living through your shop, the video and the time it took to create, edit and UL it... :)

I have had a few of these six-cylinder LandRovers both series 2A and 3 they are great engines and very long-lasting, they also take a lot of abuse. One major modification I did to some of them was to first thew away the original exhaust manifold and have a free flow manifold made ...... two into one then three into one system ....... with this you with improve fuel economy and increase power. Exhaust manifolds on these motors are weak and keep cracking. If you can find a cylinder head from an early sixties Rover 105 this is a great to improve it even more as the Rover 105 had a twin carburetter and the head produced better flow. My last series 3n I sold with 998000Km on the clock motor had been open only once and bored to 10thou over size and crank bearings still standard

cute dog

That block is most definitely still serviceable as is the crank & other major components. As you say though, the pistons & rings not so lol. You guys did score well (sory Ted, but the correct word is score in this instance!)

Great vid Guys.............glad I found it, subscribed and thumbs up..........hope ya find your parts {NZ}

nice job gents!

As a diesel fitter and landy guy who owns an F head I’m well happy with your engine :o) The argument in 1992 for a rebore on a 2l was simple, standard pistons were stupidly expensive :o Unless they are through to the copper I wouldn’t even buy shell bearings. The pickup screen looks really clean. Crank looks good and I guarantee the mains don’t need to. Valve guide are easy to get and change if it needs them. Looks like you have dropped on a good engine there :D

See the dogs ready for his over night fight.

the crusher will accept land rover in any condition

Cool

That block is going to need to go to an engine shop and get completely cleaned, surfaced, re sleeved and honed.

Nice video. I’m surprised you didn’t try a little heat on the siezed pistons, although I’m not sure even that would have helped either. 👌

It's a Landy. Of course it will run. Those engines are pretty hardy bits of kit. . I had a series three that ran fine for two months with a cracked cylinder head.

The hammering creep me out 😭😭

Pos. In my workshop, I am working on the restoration of such a range from 1968. Tinsmithing and painting. We change the chassis, a new one goes and we do the engine. The pictures will be on my profile

Man that thumbnail was tricky. I thought this was a mid engine conversion! Lolz

I never knew this F-Head engine existed. Thanks. It makes me think of the Willys hurricane, except a little more advanced.

You can patent a super-adhesive: metal to aluminum corrosion. Takes a while to harden, but if dried...

I have 4 of these engines at home. Two currently being rebuilt. I am doing one myself. I have a Westlake head from a Rover car that I may add to one at some stage. It is good to see the land Rover version of this head. As it is slightly different (oil gallery at the back of the engine). You mentioned the spec for the valve lash is on the valve cover. Many people ignore that. And I can let you know what spec is common if wanted? I have not seen pistons like yours with the holes in the side. I guess they are earlier than mine? Often the exhaust valve lash was poorly maintained and that often caused issues. Burn valves, stuck valves etc. Happy to help with any questions you might have where I can. I am no expert but have good access to some experts. Great to see this tear down on youtube. Hard to find this sort of content.

I worked on them when I was younger the valve clearances need adjusting on a regular basis otherwise they will burn valves.The main cause of engine failure is the SU Carburetor flooding which dilutes the engine oil and cause the big ends to fail this is very nasty and quite common.

One valve per cylinder, interesting engineering choice....

You have to bore it out no question about it if you want it to last for any time

I had a 78 series III 109 with the 2.6L six. They run well when you get them in good shape. Couple of things to note. There was a performance version which had twin carbs, it was called the Weslake head. I had a twin carb head but it had a crack in it that I was told wasnt fixable :( supposed to be good for a pretty sizeable jump in power though. Word of warning - never - ever let the engine overheat. The long length, tall iron block and thick aluminium head means that the head will "banana" instantly causing head gasket issues if it overheats. Luckily this usually starts out with a subtle loss of compression and not more serious leaks but still - its very annoying. I had just had my head milled and rebuilt it myself when a shop did some chassis work for me and managed to leave my electric fan unplugged. One trip into the red on the coolant gauge and my hard work was ruined. Other than that those engines are solid lumps, smooth and torque right off idle.

I have the same Wagon but it has a 2.25 diesel with a Fairey overdrive.

There is someone who has 3 or 4 in garden on the reading road Harwell Oxfordshire . You need to come out and see .

These are great cars & engines, and super rare.. they're not the best engineering, but they're forgiving to work with & very durable if looked after.. These 2.6 6-cylinder Land Rovers had their faults, and were certainly more a manufacturing compromise, using what was available rather than adopt costly redesigns to maximise profit yet increase market share.. the i6 powertrain was designed for use in Rover cars, with fast high geared transmission & differential, not low geared high torque systems for working Land Rovers where the i4 2.25 litre engines were best suited yet woefully underpowered. So the poor long stroke 6 cylinder engine are vulnerable to over-revving and over-stress, leading to excessive fuel consumption, piston hot spots, worn points, tappets & valvetrain, pre-deteriorating valve stem seals. Just overall more wear and tear, because people still want & require to eek out 60 - 70 mph motorway journey speeds from effectively a tractor transmission, despite the Fairey Overdrive unit fitted to most transmission boxes as a 5 speed final drive.. For instance, my Landy is at it's happiest cruising 40-50 mph.. Thanks for the video and please continue to share more for every one out there who are looking after these cars, and for those who maybe also one day want to own and enjoy driving them.

Only if you could drop the whole engine into an ultra-sound cleaner chamber 🤔

It's a boat anchor. That's why so many got replaced with chevy 250s.

Great video , but !, you failed miserably with the seized pistons, the gas axe 🪓 🔥 & diesel, repeat many times, as I live on ‘Mud Island’ we are used to things seizing 🤓 joking apart, some of those pistons were never going to survive with that amount of galvanic corrosion . We used to be able to buy ‘Cord’ rings back in the day that were fractionally oversized, so with a worn bore, and plenty of honing, and gapping the rings to suit, it was a great alternative to boring. Can’t wait to see your solution for that ‘unloved engine’

You should try Delrin blocs !

nice vid, i am about to embark on the same problem however its only a 4 cylinder S1 engine.

@4:35 Hearing protection is your friend!

Modern rods and pistons am I imaginingly hearing?

Great vid, I'm really enjoying the series, it'l look really cool once done with the patina etc. I travelled to Norway in one of these back in 1980, average speed could barely have been 40 mph? cheers from the UK Ian

No, no, no, no, no! Get the cylinders rebored and be done with it!

I’ve got used parts from 2.5n/a diesels 10j to 12j unsure if parts be compatible for a six pot but be happy to check if stuck just need part numbers to check against then if matched be postal costs from uk to you but shout if stuck as never know I might have a part or parts needed .

LUCAS hahahahahaha Some one must be board ...

If you heat the block with a torch will it expand the block and let the oil past the rings ?

👍✌

Theres a good machine shop down here in Davenport if ol 59 forces your hand

I was expecting to see some heat applied...I have had some results with using a Bolt loosener, then cooking it with a propane touch and respraying when still Hot...but no guarantee it would work. My nada has a perkins in it...the 2.6 is long gone...

❤️👍👍👍👍

👏👏👍

boiling oil down the bores will normally free a stuck piston

Don’t know why you think it’s not worth while ? It’s worth €6,000 as it is and could be worth up to €40,000 depending on what you do with it. Maybe even more !!

yeah mick at mad ford engineering is your man hit him up

Shoulda tried some evaporust. Or maybe some heat, a torch maybe. Fun to watch tho. Should be able to find some pistons on eBay or something.

My first car was a LR with this engine. Had the head off it many times.

Lovely old engine those sixes but goodness they’re fond of petrol.

aney updates on the engine?

Phosphoric Acid. I suspect the first thing to chuck down the plug holes is rust eating acid. Think about the damage from breaking rust vs the rust not being there anymore? :o) *has to be oil free though, which rusty usually is.

If you decide to not use toe roof for this vehicle, I would love to purchase it. Mine is damaged. Thanks!

heat cycles?

Having fun? Owned a green 1983 110 Pickup V8. All in all a very good and reliable truck with very capable suspension and maybe the worst V8 GM ever designed. Mind you, better than your boat anchor🙂. Today I would swap the Rover V8 for a carb'd stroker JEEP I6 or a Toyota I6.

Good hunting guys maybe you could coal chezel the pistons

never ever beat a piston rod out with metal on metal.. always use a piece of oak or other hardwood 2x2 or 2x4 depending on bore..if you're going to replace rod/piston then go ahead and destroy them., you cannot reuse them after that.

I have one of these. Managed to free the pistons and get them out, but now the camshaft won't move.

What's the outcome, is it running?

Would it not make more sense to drop in an LS motor and do a T case and Tranny swap at the same time? Plate C

Your best bet with that motor is get rid of it and do what we did downunder back in the day and go either leaning tower of power or Chevy's old 4.1l

#5 will buff out with a lil WD...

snap off🤣

So that engine is a mix of flathead and modern? I mean has a valve on the block and exhaust valve in the head?

In the 1969’s British cars engines were made to last, just the rest of the car was built out of poor quality steel and rust proofing was totally out of the question. Bodywork was common to rot within 3 years and here in uk we don’t have a severe climate, just damp and wet most of the time.

Maybe liquid nitrogen in the cylinder bores would have 'shrunk' the pistons enough for easier removal ? Not sure of this would have caused more damage, but curious to know if anyine has ever tried this method.

珍しいエンジンですね、

Have you though of doing maybe... a Chevy 350 swap? Not a LS! But a 350 Chevy Swap. Also, have you looked into Rover North for your parts?

Speak to Mick at Mad Ford Engineering.

These engines were known for tossing connecting rods.

next time use just sparkling water to unstack the cylinders or soak anything that you want to brake, you see H2O molecularly the smalets that any penetrating oil so H2O goes , but you have to be patient you have to wait o for 10 days with H2O.

I have a 1967 series 2B…same engine…..mine is running like a little watch…..

From what I can see the bores are toast, and seems madness to buy new pistons and not have the block bored? I would guess low compression, and excessive smoke are likely without a bore job?

contact Mick at Mad Ford Engineering, he can source you everything you need!

Nooooooooo ! You’re doing it wrong - you have to swear (a lot) when working on Land Rovers 🤣

Salut my friend super car super video subscribe subscribe .