You said 9 times out of 10. For that 10th, like my 2000 Impreza, it was not only those bushings but also the bushing between the shift lever and that shift rod. Simple to replace from inside the car; took 5 minutes once I figured out why some slop remained after doing the job shown in your video. Great content, MrSubaru! Has been very helpful with getting mine in good order!

OMG... my 03 shifter feels like a broomstick in a bucket of jello. I am ordering a replacement link RIGHT NOW. Thank you for this!!!

I'm envious of your , Rust & rot free vehicles

Thanks brother!! 👌🏼👌🏼

Great video Mr Subaru!

Well done! Ottimo lavoro❤

You Made that look much easier than my experience changing the shifter U-joint. Where do I find dedicated roll pin punches? Having dedicated roll pin punches that fit the inner and outer roll pins would have made a HUGE difference. Getting the roll pins out took most of the time.

I've been putting up with this in my RA forever - you have given me no excuse not to do the job now.

The torq solutions solid ball bearing replacement is a great upgrade for anyone looking for a performance option its more exspensive than oem but i love the feel of it with also upgrading the shifter bushing a solid setup with almost zero play but if you just want a simple replacement the oem is the way to go

I'm moving to SC soon!

I have a 2001 Forester I found a bunch of these shifter Parts aftermarket, in the back of the car and was wondering what the hell is this, and then I had to do my clutch and then I looked and I'm like oh oh okay so I put them in with the new clutch and my shifter is rock-solid now.

Have you been spying in my tool box...I've been meaning to do this exact repair job for over a year now.

It is the worst doing this in a drive way and with the wrong punches

Roll pins in NY don’t exist 😂

Our 2006 Subaru Impreza (124,000 miles) is stuck in Park. It starts and runs normally, and the stick shift moves, but the dashboard display always indicates P no matter what gear the stick shift is in. The car does not go forward or backward. Immediately after this happened, the brake pedal was very hard to depress. Now, after fiddling with the stick shift, it seems normal. Expensive code reader finds no stored or pending DTCs. There are no check engine/trouble lights lit on the dashboard. Pressing the emergency override switch next to the stick shift makes no difference. Unsnapped all of the plastic from around the shift stick to make sure I was pressing the switch all the way down - no difference. Even though the brake lights seemed to work normally when the pedal was depressed, I changed the stop light switch anyway - no difference. Brake lights still come on when the pedal is depressed. Dashboard still indicates P when the shifter is moved. Car still will not go forward or backward. Right now, whenever the stick shift is moved into Park, a LOUD click comes from the dashboard. That never happened before. Prior to getting stuck at work, the brakes worked normally, the car was quiet and there was no reason to suspect anything was about to go wrong. Do you have a video on this problem? Have you ever seen it before? Thank you.

Nice job

Any special recommendation on a 2017 Forester? Thanks much.

Make sure it's oem I had a cheap one break on me and stck in 3rd gear

2015 Outback. Soft intermittent clicking when turning the steering wheel either direction. Clock spring?

need to fix my 90 legacy's shifter..

I had this same problem on my 1998 Impreza … way back in 2007. At the time, none of the mechanics whom I consulted could figure out the problem. I never got it fixed, and ended up selling the car a year later. Oh well!

I replaced this u-joint on my 2004 Impreza wagon about 2 years ago. Unfortunately, I went with a cheap ebay option (was around $20) and the shifter is now back to being sloppier than ever. Definitely going with an OEM joint this time!

Where was you able to source that part from?

Forgot to add the "BOING" sound when it all fixed and going back to the middle lol

I have a 2004 Forester x and the driver's side rear cam cap seal is weeping oil and dripping onto the header. How much approx do you think a shop would charge to replace it? It looks like you would have to loosen the head bolts, pry out the old one, insert the new one and retorque. It's in an awkward position I don't fancy tackling myself. I'm wondering if I cleaned the area with brake cleaner and apply high temp rtv to try and seal it. Much appreciated, I love my Subaru and your videos.

Instead of buying roll pin punches, I just sacrificed the appropriate sized drill bits from my box of random bits. (Not the good ones!)

What is worse? Having the sloppy shifter. Or me having the new one and still not installing it. 🤦🏼‍♂️🤦🏼‍♂️🤦🏼‍♂️😂😂😂

On some Subaru's the unit is serviceable (i.e. there is a nut and bolt holding the two pieces together) and you can buy the bushing separately and swap them out. On others it is not. But you can easily cut the fixed bolt off and replace it with a stronger nut and bolt. That way in the future you can replace the bushings easily without having to drive the roll pins out. Where I'm from Subaru sells the whole joint for $140 ($90USD) so it's a waste of money replacing the whole part just because the bushings are no good. It's no different to suspension bushings i.e. Why would you replace say, a whole control arm or sway bar just because the bushings are worn. Here's my tip to make this job easier and cheaper. For the $40 you paid for the entire joint you could get new bushings, new roll pins, nut/ bolt, loctite and a proper set of roll pin punches to do the job. It's way easier to remove the transmission mounts, (only 4 bolts) so you can get better access to strike the roll pin rather than tapping at it for ages at weird angles. It then literally takes a few taps to knock out the inner and outer roll pins. The added benefit is you can also do an inspection on the transmission mounts while they are off as they also wear out. There are quite a number of people on youtube showing you how to do this job who spend ages tapping at awkward angles with the wrong type of punch and eventually getting it out. A proper Roll pin punch has a convex tip and edge. The edge sits on top of the roll pin to allow you to drive the pin out while the rounded tip sits inside the roll pin preventing the punch from slipping off when you strike it.

My car has been undriveable because I tired to do it myself, IT WONT COME OFF, IT CANT COME OFF, I HAD THE GREASE BOILING ON THE FORK SHAFT AND IT DOSNT MOVE

thanks very much buddy. The same thing happens to me on my sti and I thought it was more serious.👍👍

Nope. Never again with roll pins for me. Hate them.