Good information. What will happen if inner cylinder becomes rough? Thanks.

@@cck1496 no compression and rapid wear of the rings.

@@SoddingaboutSi Thanks for your prompt reply. Keep it up.

❤❤

How did the rebuild go? I'm starting one for a single cylinder dirtbike, and I'm rather scared to start.

There is also a bottle brush hone which, I suspect, does not remove as much material. That would be my concern here, you remove metal and tolerances then go out of spec....then you end up overboring, say 30 thosuands with over size piston or you end up sleeving the cylinder(s). How did your project go ? I am in the beginning steps right now, - greasy mess on the engine stand, and mess on the floor ! So annoying, I like things clean.

If my outboard honda motor (4 cylinder) based of a honda accord had a cracked head and water was seeping in. Should I hone it or just clean it with one of those kitchen green scrubbers?

CSJiGSaW first clean bro 2 weld it shut and thoroughly grind but not too much then hone or replace and hone head itself less money and problems

If you knew anything you would be telling him he needs a machine shop, not a DIY deglazing.

@@TOMVUTHEPIMP Ive owned a machine shop sense 1973

Buddy at the machine shop said roughly for every 16 strokes you can remove up to .001, so not a big deal. The main thing is to check with dial bore gauge and when satisfied with all cylinders, that they be cleaned thoroughly to remove any abrasives left by honing process so rings seat and last for many years.

These DIY gadgets just deglaze, they dont hone.

Best to refer the to workshop manual for the cylinder bore size and piston ring tolerances and work within the spec required.

If you can easily remove a piston and ridge reeming isn't necessary, then no. However, if the bore is oversized you'll need to bore the block and get oversized pistons with matching rings. Never use just oversized rings, and if ridge reeming is neccesary, then the bores are out of round and no ring will seal. If you can't hone a bore in a timely manner, then the bore needs bored out oversized, cause by then you've removed to much for standard rings to seal.

That car is a fire hazard

@@YeOldeGeezer That was a witch hunt,

i think the mod you should be more focused on is probably *relocating the fuel tank* because if that thing gets rear-ended you're going up like a frying pan in a gourmet restaurant

@@egg9469 That was a witch hunt, But all 3 of my Pintos have the Gas tank recall upgraded parts

@@egg9469 🤣🤣🤣

Yup. They're deglazers not hones.

Ź

$30 well spent.

no

you aint lying,

If my outboard honda motor (4 cylinder) based of a honda accord had a cracked head and water was seeping in. Should I hone it or just clean it with one of those kitchen green scrubbers?

those scratches are meant to happen they will disappear in no time what we want is we want to remove big and deep scratches with this if you dont have a damaged cylinder you should not do this

What if you just use the medium grit stones and put the pistons in? With it be fine?

@@danielroy8411 Sorry for a delayed response. The medium grit cuts the troughs into the bore that hold the oil. The finer grip smooths out the top of the troughs. If you don't use the finer grit, the rings will end up smoothing the tops of the troughs which in the long term will give you approximately the same result. If you use the finer grit stone there will be less wear on the piston rings.

Ball hone makes a bad finish and its not consistent with the diameter

No mm

Its good enough for a cage

You will only rebore if the bore is too worn or out of round and requires a oversized piston. If the bore is ok with existing piston a hone will be ok for new rings. Either way you need a bore gauge to measure this and they are usually around $300 minimum for anything decent. This is backyard slap it together zone. No decent engine will be done this way.

I also didn't see a torque plate being used.

@@dirkadirka5395 not required on that type of engine, if it was a harley davidson then yes one would be needed

@@blacksheep6888 Why not for the 4 cylinder?

Not if the cylinders are still within spec

How are you gonna sleeve a block with a drill and honing gizmo?

Supercheap auto parts in Australia & Walmart in USA

Yea machine shop here i come🤣

Use a ridge removing tool first from Australia

@@arthurdunn3007 These youtube honing videos are a joke for the most part. They should be called how to polish your cylinders . The ball hones really make me cringe . No one ever uses a sunnen hand/ manual hone tool either wich is 5 times better than the flim flam wobble sticks everyone seems to fall for . The cheap ones can work pretty good / good enough if used properly . 9 out of 10 don't though wich is why better than half of the budget rebuilds even smell horible going down the road . A good running rebuilt no emisions controle engine wont stink like an oil fire in the least when built and tuned properly .

Authur Dunn

I hope you're not following the directions from this video

I know these motors inside out and it's definitely a Toyota 5SFE

@@viperfukgoogplus386 whats wrong with the videos instructions

Why? Drills are used to mix up many things for example paint. Atleast battery ones.

Why? Drills are used to mix up many things for example paint. Atleast battery ones.

@@fraided88 you answered your own question with last part of your statement captain obvious

I didn't find a ball hone for the diameter of my cylinders, so I only had this tool to do this. And to my big surprise, the crosshatch pattern was absolutely perfect! But it was a difficult task to get it right, you have to choose the right drill speed and stroke that shit fast!

You are absolutely correct sir. I’ve only ever done coarse stones this way. The only way to do it I think. Save the oil for the last .001 if you need to

I am sure mostly any fluid would work, I know some guys who like using WD40 and some who like using transmission fluid. depends on your personal preference and it makes me wonder what you could get away with.

If my outboard honda motor (4 cylinder) based of a honda accord had a cracked head and water was seeping in. Should I hone it or just clean it with one of those kitchen green scrubbers?

@@CSJiGSaW08 once a piston is pulled it's imperative to use new rings, doesn't matter if low miles or not, which then requires honing the cylinders. You need that cross hatch pattern for new rings to seat properly, and honing is the only way to get that. Cylinders must be honed as good as possible, otherwise that thing will use oil and rings will NOT seal and no amount of engine break in period will do it either. If you don't plan on pulling the pistons, don't mess with the cylinders other than maybe spraying and wiping it down with a "light" solvent. Don't use abrasives on cylinders if your not pulling the pistons out, you'll mess up the ring pattern. Each set of rings creates their own wear patterns.

@@garyr7027 Got it, makes sense. Right now its top dead center on piston 1. Both piston 1 and 4 are to the top of the block. Cylinders 2 and 3 are down at the bottom of the bore. 2 and 3 were the ones of concern since the I found the head was cracked on both 2 and 3 near the water galleys. I didn't see any large scratch or irregularity, only that down the bore at the edge of cylinder head, i noticed some white powder residue kind of line salt buildup with the oil. I think it was when removing the head some of it got down there, but any ways a good engine flush should be good if any salt and water is mixed inside. I have not rotated it because i'm not an expert on timing of the engine and afraid of messing up the timing. Not sure if I should just clean bores 2 and 3 and forget cleaning 1 and 4. Either way they were 150 PSI compression and 2 and 3 where giving almost 0 PSI due to the cracked head. I heard marvel mystery oil is really good for the head and cylinder areas to clean and preserve lubrication or should I just use WD40?. Is the Scotch Brite too abrasive to clean inside the bore?

Yeah you can not see the wear in your cyl's. Like out of round ?

Ball hone is terrible.

Disassembly is critical as the waste material resulting from the glaze cannot contaminate any assembly component whatsoever. Although a thorough clean afterwards can shape up the process, initial prevention of a bigger mess should always be considered first. Saves time and reduces the likelihood of waste material comprising the nature of new bearings, components etc.

That's the same type cylinder hone they have used for many decades before these new fangled ball hones came out

@@glengillham4629 to rebore a cylinder with a rigid machining boring tool is an entirely different process then simply honing a cylinder, breaking the glaze, and preparing it for new rings. They can call a Boring tool a "hone" all they want to nowadays, it does not make them the same thing.

this is definitely a hone, its just not going to give straight and perfect results like a machine shop rigid hone would... its absolutely fine for cleaning up cylinders, if they fall within spec there is absolutely nothing wrong with this kind of hone.

On the other hand, if the cylinder walls are uneven and 'waffled' the balls will follow the contours. Long flat stones are the best choice when the cylinder conditions are unknown. The ball hones are better when the block has been re-bored or sleeved and you know the sides of the cylinder are parralel and straight.

@@coolhand1964 You are obviously not a qualified engine reconditioner or you would know that after an engine has been bored you need to hone out around 004" to make sure all the tool marks are removed and a ball hone will not remove anywhere near that much material. A proper hone needs to be used such as a sunnen using multiple grades of stones not some 3 legged bargain basement tool.

@@grantreid8583 You will find plenty of engine reconditioners on YT who concur with my opinion. I am referring to a re-ring job at home, not a full reborn, same as you. Which I have done with vintage motorcycle cylinders many times. There are quality 3 stone hones available, you're the person talking Harbour Freight, not me. My motorcycles have been going strong for 20 yrs, have not glazed, have not started to burn oil and you have Buckley's chances of kicking it through top dead centre when the engine is hot and tolerances are at their minimum. There are plenty of horror stories on YT also about what so called qualified engine reconditioners have done. Some I've met over the years were dumb as dog shit and I wouldn't cross the street to cuss them, given some of the work I have been handed. I have also had parts lost or damaged that were 75 yrs old or more and known as unobtanium by so called professionals. I have worked with mechanical engineers who were geniuses over the years, that's where my skills and knowledge have come from. If a cylinder is badly corroded, water damaged, lost a gudgeon circlip and deeply scored a bore, I'll send it off for a re-bore WITH the piston to be fitted, so that it is bored and honed, to the correct .004-.005" tolerance, relative to the piston (air cooled cylinder). Using a boring machine and a Sunnen hone or similar to do the work. I was responding to your comment, best you go read it again. Rather than accuse me of being ill-informed.

@Flash Man when I did engines, easy stuff in the early 70s, we always bored them out to receive first oversize pistons. Most honing was done by the machine shop. I did hone a few that had no ridge. Usually measured out ok for stock rings. But most of my honing was done on dirt bikes. I turned to using the phones with the balls on the ends of wire. Also did brake cylinders. But engines were done by the pros. Later on by the early 80s it was buying rebuilt engines straight from the factory. Cost didnt pay to do it ourselves any longer.

Not required on this type of engine

@@blacksheep6888 Curious as to why? Thnx

@@dirkadirka5395 its cast iron simple, I am a qualified mechanic worked in engine reconditioning shop.

@@blacksheep6888 OK cool but when would you use a torque plate then?Thnx

@@dirkadirka5395 some aluminium blocks and motorcycle barrels

Good enough for a cage, seen a lot worse rebuilt and okay.

Depends how bad the scoring is. But almost all scoring is irreparable by honing, the exception would be when it doesn't catch your fingernail. So basically yeah only deglazing. Probably going to have to start over on the top end as the cylinder might need machining, therefore, your pistons and rings won't match up.

@LifeofAedan tried honing it out and it didn't work, I brought them to a machine shop, hoping they'll get it done, just gonna be looking at ass loads of labour charges but guess that what happens, damn

@@user-gw6js6fc4i yep unfortunately that’s always the hard part is damn machine shops charging a boat load. If you can find yourself one ran by older folks they always seem to be a lot better. For example when I rebuilt my duramax the diesel shop wanted to charge $500 to machine the heads. Brought it over to this little shop connected to an advance auto and got them done for $50 a head. Back in the day when your auto part stores did more than just sell stuff. Pretty cool, but there’s barely any around nowadays.

Blackbeard 007 the hone tool just makes a crosshatch pattern to help lubrication while it is running....it’s not made to bore a motor

Yes uniform honing is the key.

Its only a cage it'll be fine.

This is just degrade and quick cross hatch. I honed many cylinders no need to bore if have a sunken hone can take as much as you want

More like tenths not thousands. You'd really have to crank it down to remove thousands.

@@StreetTruckinTitan what? .1 is a tenth which is far more than .001 which is a thousandth. So a tenth is 100 times more than a thousandth.

the nancy pelosi hone job...

That;s why you use a ball dunny brush it hides all the wear ?

This is why you do research and not cause you saw it on KZfaq.

....no if you think you're gonna take off any substantial amount of material with that bone, you're simply wrong. The only way you'd take off anywhere near enough material for it to require a +0.020" is if you were honing for hours nonstop. If you're really afraid of that, put some super fine sand paper over the stones and use that as your honing stone. Too many people giving advice without knowing what they're talking about

@@southproduct7463 i hear you, you cannot make the cylinder bigger that would require any oversized parts with this thing, crazy how people are afraid to use these alot, because they think they'll do it for too long, while there are instances where that can happen, it's very unlikely.

Those honing stones would disappear long before you changed the bore diameter enough to require oversized pistons unless you had a very coarse grit and extra stones. You might as well try to cut down a giant redwood tree with a pocket knife....going to take a while. Still, it always makes sense to do the minimal amount of honing that is necessary. The idea is to get a surface that will allow new piston rings to set properly. Too polished (having a shiny mirror finish) can mean that you won't get good compression results and you'll have an oil burner.

Total rubbish the three leged hone is perfect for the job and is made for the job bottle brush hone is for cross hatch as well and is okay as well. Ask any of us qualified mechanics and you will get the same answer. The bore is okay if there is no Ridge on it, never bother to use a Ridge remover it's a waist of time unless it's a lawn mower that don't really matter.

Use a ridge reamer first, then hone the bore.

That doesn't make any sense.

@@michaelcohen9363 how so

@@circlejerk6861 because it doesn't make any sense. The oil (whether conventional or synthetic) is just the lube for the honing stones. It doesn't make a difference if someone uses one or the other.

@@michaelcohen9363 is that fact or your preofessional opinion

@@circlejerk6861 Both. It's just a lubricant. What you're thinking of is NOT using synthetic to break in new oil rings on a rebuilt motor. For honing though, using synthetic is fine.