I replaced my fuel tank about a year ago it was full of rust inside too. It wasn’t fun but it sure fixed the problem. No more bad idling and even the gas gauge is working. Great video!!!

Awesome, if you didn’t have another tank you can try to throw marbles or bolts in the tank and shake it real good, like throw it in the bed of your truck or something and then flush out the tank. Have a good one!

Good job. But u should consider evap purge valve. Coal canister and oxygen sensor. They cause lots of troubles. Good luck

Good information keep up the great videos

check the distributor caps, they get full of moisture after the engine warms up

This video has really good timing - well, almost. I’ve been tackling a similar situation the last 1-2 weeks. My S500 project came with a lot of rust inside the tank - loose pieces of rust with pin sized holes at the bottom. I was able to get a used fuel tank with the level sensor from a local auto recycler. There was some surface rust inside, it was difficult to clean out - there still is a small amount of surface rust but I think I’ll be fine.. If someone can confidently tell me that I should definitely go back in and clear out every single trace of rust, I would appreciate it to avoid problems down the road. That big fuel hose was a pain in the butt. The tank would not come out with the fuel hose in it’s “home position” (yes, there is a particular way/direction that the hose should be installed/facing after it’s installed - more on this later). With my dad’s advice, I used a basin wrench to loosen the nut and remove the hose. In hindsight, you probably don’t have to remove the hose entirely, you just need to loosen it a small amount and twist it 90-180 degrees so that the angle of the metal pipe on that hose isn’t going to interfere with you trying to pull out the tank from the trunk. The angle of the metal pipe is important because it will affect the routing of the entire hose. There is a rear sway bar that comes close to that hose. So if you tighten the hose incorrectly, then there’s a chance that the hose can rub against the sway bar and maybe cause a big leak down the road. For installation, I did have to make a few painstaking attempts, but what I ended up doing was the following: 1- Install the hose, but do not tighten it fully! Tighten it just so that it’s just quarter of a turn away from the original “home position.” It’s hard to describe via text, but try to just remember the orientation of the hose before you loosen anything. If you slid under the car from the rear and are parallel to it, the hose will be facing roughly 2 o’clock looking straight up at it. When I installed it, I left it slightly loose around 11-12 o’clock. Install the fuel tank, carefully wiggle and route the hose into the hole from inside the trunk, and then when you have it placed in completely, you can go underneath with a 22mm wrench, and try your best to get the wrench on that fuel hose nut and tighten it one quarter of a turn or so to get you to that 2 o’clock position where the hose will not be contacting the sway bar. Hope that advice helps anyone on here.. Let me know if you have any questions, I can try to explain better.

this must be the only car with the gas tank mounted upright behind the seat like that?

Yessss.....keep it up....!!

Hello! Any update on swapping the fuel sending units? Will the pre facelift fit the facelift version or do the wires need to be spliced in? I’d love to see any details about that if it’s possible. Thank you!

My brake lights is not working on my s420 Mercedes 96 I changed the brake switch and it's still not working do you have any idea thank you

Hey Pete, quick question, do these w140s have limp mode? Is there a way to reset the TCM? There's a 95 S320 I'm looking to buy that won't shift above 30-35 mph but goes into reverse, it sounds like the conductor plate needs to be replaced but I'm not even sure if these have it in the 722.5 transmission. Any tips? I read it could be something as simple as new trans fluid and filter. But I also know it might be a piston or solenoid.

Hello and thanks for your W140 videos Pete, I'm a fellow Mercedes-Benz owner and fan. I'm considering swapping the manual metal sunroof on my W123 with a sunroof from a W140. The size is the same, and it'll fit perfectly, but it'll need a fair amount of electrical wiring and the installation of an operation switch / reading light assembly (from a W124). Being that you're a W140 owner and enthusiast, what's your opinion on the overall functionality and durability of the sunroofs on the W140s?