This is such a misunderstood subject down here in Florida. People even inspectors get it wrong. Bonding and grounding are not the same thing. This purpose of to give equipotential bonding between all points of the pool that could become energized. A lot of people here think this line connects to ground back in the panel. It's not the same thing. Thank you for going into detail.

Thanks Ron. Absolutely I enjoy these vids. Keep em coming.

Thanks for making these. I like your straightforward approach.

Good job Ron.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

We most def like the content so keep it coming 👊

Great video. Ron you ate saying if there no gfci protection. Before it's not required

Awesome video!!

Ron, Great video as usual! thank you! I'm looking to start installing pool wiring. Do you have a step-by-step?

Hey Ron I’m an electrical apprentice right now I’m in my third year and your videos really have taught me a lot and are very helpful especially for young guys learning the trade appreciate it keep up on the content!!

Hopefully they will rebond the fence if they put it back up. Keep up the good work, the videos are informative and interesting, thanks

When installing the ground lugs to the metal around the pool do you have to buff the surface of the metal where it is clean so the lug and steel make good connection or does it matter? Thank you for sharing.

Another great video. Question for you. With an above ground pool what’s the best way to get a stainless steel bolt and nut into the support post for the lug since self tappers aren’t allowed? If the pool is already constructed when you get there how are you supposed to get inside the post?

Hi Ron, good video. It's not often that a person can find a picture/video of what is underneath the concrete surrounding a pool! I digress. My understanding is that the bonding lug on a pool pump motor is connected only to the metal case of the motor - it is not connected to the electrical ground connection of the motor. If this is correct (I'm not sure completely). Also, when all of the metal objects associated with the pool are connected together (bonded) with code required materials, then all that has really happened by bonding them is that from an electron's point of view, all of those different metal objects (railings, ladders, water, pump motor, heater, etc.) all "look like" a single conductor and there is no opportunity for a voltage difference (potential) to occur between any two or more objects under any conditions. This understanding comes from your comments from a few months ago where you said the bonding grid only gets connected to the lug under the filter/pump and "no grounding rods". Can you confirm my understanding? Thanks! BTW, I'm just a guy, not an electrician.

Wow it would scare me not to use a gfci breaker now even though not required back then.

Good Morning Ron Thanks for the videos and keep up the good work!! I have a question. Are the split bolt connectors that you are using made for direct burial only?

Thanks for this video Ron. One question for you. When doing the bonding grid I’ve seen a lot of people doing as you did around the pool with just one wire going around the pool and connected at different point to the structure. I’ve also seen people doing a 2 or 3 feet by 12” bonding grid with some pre built grids. In which instance do you use one or the other? Obviously using one cable is much easier but which method would you use for a gunite pool with no decking (ie:just coping and grass around the pool). Thanks.

Neat n' tidy

I'm wondering how many points around the steel wall you are connecting the bonding to? Is it necessary to put a lug on each individual wall panel? Thanks, it is a well done video.

Could u please make a video regarding which types of connectors u use to connect the 8 AWG copper wires? Also, can u place 3 wires into one connector? Thank you!

Where did you ground it After the fence was gone

I find it interesting that while the NEC has very specific mechanical installation requirements, nothing in the NEC that I’ve seen so far requires or even suggests (well, maybe implies) taking electrical measurements after the work is done to verify/confirm that a system is working as intended. Ron, do you take any measurements of your work? For example, in this case it seems to me that continuity and resistance measurements at various points might be a good idea. Also, while those connections you made are great, time always takes a toll. Would you ever consider waterproofing those connections so as to prevent corrosion and failure of the contacting surfaces (between the wire clamp and the pool frame)? Maybe it’s just me but I’d grind off some of that oxidation before installing those clamps.

So if the pool pump is GCFI protected any ground fault in the motor itself should trip the GFCI before any current could travel anywhere near the pool. So the bonding around the pool must be to prevent any voltage potential difference in the ground itself in which current could flow between grounding rods from different transformers or possibly metal pipes in the ground around the city?

Not sure if they used brass pipe for the pool light but I think 30 years ago it was the standard . if so would you not need to bond the pool light with the # 8 wire as the brass pipe provides the bond ?

Hey Ron, are you not required to use #8 bare solid wire to loop around the pool?

I don't agree with you on the equipotential bonding purpose, the key words are EQUIPOTENTIAL BONDING, so pretty much its purpose is to bring everything to the same potential (voltage) and minimize shock hazards.Even though the OCD is gonna trip and do its job if the water or something else (equipment related with the pool) gets energized, the main goal here is again to reduce the difference of potential in or around the pool areas because at the end is that what kills you.

Hey Ron, my pool was installed in 2000 and I’m fairly certain I saw the bonding installed before concrete was poured. Now I’m getting low voltage shocks from every metal component around the pool. I’m assuming the concrete will have to be removed in order to find the break in the bond? I’ve also checked the wiring of the 120VAC pool light, which is wired to a GFCI breaker. My concern with the light is the ground wire coming into the breaker box was intentionally left disconnected. Is there a valid case for leaving the ground wire disconnected?

Why install insulated wire, Doesn’t it defeat the purpose of equal potential to the surface when you’re walking on the deck? I’m installing one monday and the instructions from the pool company and township is that it has to be bare.

The ground wire in my inground swimming pool broke off inside the Niche. What can l do?

How come you didn’t use bare copper wire

I thought the wire was supposed to be bare

I would always replace breakers with GFCI for pools. If you are there, then do it. It is not about it working. You don’t wait until someone is shocked to put in GFCI 🤦‍♂️

You are supposed to be using bare copper on the grid part. How can you create a bonding grid with insulated wire? Also, your explanation of the bonding grid purpose is off. The equipment grounding conductor is the only path it can take to trip the overcurrent device. It will not return back to the source through the ground enough to trip the OCD. It will only disperse the potential evenly all around the pool (UNLESS THE WIRE IS INSULATED). The bonding grid is for NEV potential.

You need a helper?

I@Ron . I used #8 bare wire copper all around the pool. I see your using a coated #8 why??? Is that necessary or is it just cheaper and still makes code??? Where is the best place to ground the main wire at to the ground rod???