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I had an FJ1200 years ago. Thought I would be generous and use full synthetic oil. Oil consumption problems and clutch slipping problems quickly ensued. 2 oil and filter changes quickly done to return back to mineral and we had many years of happy riding. Lesson learnt

I worked for BP in the 1970s and they introduced a new oil called Visco 2000. The testing claimed it would stay good for 200,000 klm. Yes , 200,000. They stopped making that claim when the vehicle industry complained they would never make money and that people would never service their cars. But It was true, oil companies can make fantastic oil products if they want to. It was a bright red colour but no good for wet clutch motorcycles. This product disappeared without trace by 1980. Castrol had some input into the science behind it, I still like Castrol oil even today.

I used Honda's conventional oil for my honda grom, I'm at 52k miles and still going strong.

Sorry Chaos, this is a huge subject that cannot be covered in 6 minutes. Guys/Girls - just use what your manual says - the engineers that designed your bike engine know better than any of us what is required.

Mineral oil is the worst. I always used OEM Honda oil on my 2008 Honda Unicorn and changed it at regular intervals but the engine was a goner at only 43k kms on the odo(Play in crank bearing which caused premature wear of cylinder walls).

Been using Fully synthetic in my commuter for years with 5k drain intervals. Cloaked 50k kilometers. Still the engine feels like new.

Use the oil recommended by the manufacturer. If the manufacturer recommends mineral oil, use high-quality mineral oil. Oil change at 5000km. Mineral 10W40 or semi synthetic 15W50 for my BMW F800GS according to the manufacturer. Gear changes are smoother with the mineral 10W40.

Kawasaki dealer service manager advised me to run mineral due to the MA2 additive that helps the friction plates in a wet clutch work. Synthetic is just too slippery, unless I was racing the bike and oil changes were happening sooner. So I change oil & filter every 4k, have 50k on my Z900, so far so good!

And here in Vietnam with every motorcycle i own i use full Synthetic oil because of the life span. With full Synthetic oil, i change every 4,000km whether its on the (110cc Honda Vision) or my (125cc TnT Benelli) or my (300cc BN Benelli) i use full Synthetic all the time.

Lekker Video! as always, Thanks Justin!

I use Castrol 10W40 Synthetic Blend on my 2015 Ninja 300, wet clutch. I got the bike new, and it now has 56.000 kilometers on it. Change oil every 4000 - 4500 kilometers. The engine still runs like a new . Did try full synthetic oil too, but noticed the engine was making slight whistle noise. Best advice will be like: See your owners' manual for what type of oil your bike needs and make sure you put the CORRECT AMOUNT... Ride safe ✌️

Semi-Synthetic Is usually the rule to go by in Latin America, most motorcycles sold in these lands are from Chinese brands like Loncin, who sells their patents to Italika (México), Freedom (Guatemala), Tuko (Ecuador), and AKT (Colombia), their engines, are for the most part reliable, but they work best with semi-synthetic Oil, lasting between 2000 and 3500 km at most due to our harsh environments, they aren't the best but they do the trick, for these motorcycles at least, being low CC Investing on high caliber Oil is just not necessary, same with Premium fuel, due to it not being sold often usually the additives they have are either worn out and make the gasoline pretty much the same to current. My Bike in Particular is a Loncin LX180 (Sold as An AKT CR5 180) has a 181 cc engine with 15.6 HP and produces 15 NMt. At 8500 RPM, I Use 1300 ml of Castrol Semi Synthetic, 20w50, Lasts up towards 3500 KM before needing to be swapped, but due to harsh conditions it's usually changed every 2500 km at most.. Average temperature here is 29°C - 33°C

Broke in my XSR900 with Motul 5100 semi synthetic 10w 40 then switched over to Mobil One Racing 4T 10w 40 full synthetic. Bike runs great !!

Thanks for making this informative and interesting video 👍🏻

The oil choice is not a personal choice: like so many subjects, follow your manual! Main thing to look for is the MA or or MA2 approval if you have a wet clutch.

I have used synthetic on my 1990 Yamaha Venture Royale, basically a V-Max motor. I always had a rather noisy valve train and gear noise come from it for decades. A week ago, I talked with a V-Max Venture vet who knows these bikes well. He sold me Maxima Racing oil, a 10W-40 MINERAL oil with a ton of additives made for motorcycles. The engine instantly quieted down. The noise gear train and whine disappeared. The idle was steady and smooth. The power identical. It was like a whole new engine, the difference was that much. Blew me away. broke all the rules. It was the same price or more than synthetic but the changes were beyond belief.

Thank you for this video very informative , you're the best mate

Great content. Thanks.

I use Castrol active 20w-40(synthetic technology) for my underbone bike 150cc. Engine sound and oil consumption is cool. It's great for daily commuter in a city and for a long trip.

I run Amsoil 15w50 in my MT-10 here in Florida. It is 100% PAO oil with esters in it for great seal conditioning! Esters are key for seals and keeping them pliable.

Hi from Malaysia! The problem with 'semi-synthetic oil' is that it can mean a lot of things. An oil with 95% synthetic base + 5% mineral base is a semi-synthetic oil. Conversely, one with a 5% synthetic base + 95% mineral base is a semi-synthetic oil too. And absolutely everything in between the two are also semi-synthetic oils. Together they occupy a whole gamut of price points but there's just no way of telling what you're actually paying for. Me, if I really wanna go cheap I'd go with a mineral oil coz I know that's exactly what I'm getting. If I want the good stuff, I'd pay for a fully synthetic oil coz at the damn least I know I'll be getting a proper 100% synthetic product. I wouldn't pay for the wishy-washy stuff in the middle coz to me it's all semantics in that zone.

I have ran synthetic oil in most of my cars ever since Mobil 1 became available in the late seventies. Thou now use Valvoline products now. Anyway I was afraid to use synthetic oil in my motorcycles with wet clutches for fear of slipping.Now that I older and have a Suzuki Burgman 400 with a dry clutch and about to put 10w40 4T synthetic oil in it. When I first got it I put the old stand by oil, GTX conventional 10w40 motorcycle oil. I will see how it makes a difference. By the way it is liquid cooled as one of my motorcycle I had, so the engine temperature should remain stable with or without synthetic oil I would think but a least extend the oil change interval. Great video thanks for the information.

So many people just saying 'use what the manufacturer recommends'. This is total nonsense. Most manufacturers have business deals with a particular brand, so they will recommend that product even if it's not the best for your bike. Ducati did this for years stating use so and so oil, but the dealers knew the truth, and if you bothered to ask them they would suggest something else. Also 99% of people never ride their bikes to a level where a premium synthetic oil would make a noticeable difference. The truth imo from 40 years of riding is 'For everyday riding the oil used doesn't really matter, just change it frequently and you'll be fine'.

Hey Caos, I have a 22 Vstrom 650 xt. Loaded from the factory with 10/40 full synth. After the initial change at 1000km.,Still using it. No clunks at gear changes so far, and although it is liquid cooled I am considering to switch to 15/50 semisynth. Gotta talk to the dealership because of warranty requirements.

A famous German tuner visited the oil laboratory of one of his partners (Liqui Moly). The chief chemist stated, that for a very long time there is no more "mineral" oil on the market. The industry just keeps calling it like that, because we the buyers are still thinking that way. Every oil Liqui Moly produces has the same synthetic base, but different additives. I do not know about the American market and other manufacturers, but I think, that the information in this video ist Not state of the art. 🤔🤷‍♂️

Best of both world, diesel syntec oil, you got the syntec advantage and high zddp. I use rotella t6 in about everything, including my dr650 which love it.

Full Synthetic was smooth for about 2000k's then gear changes got quite chunky, switched back to semi and gear changes feel more consistent. I'll stick with semi synthetic, full synthetic seems to break down faster.

I take a shot when Justin says "however"😄

The great thing about the Internet is a guy that's never been in a laboratory or testing facility in his life can suddenly become a professional KZfaq comment oil scientist

I switched from a fully synthetic recommended by the bike manufacturer to a better quality synthetic made by the same manufacturer. I can't say what the difference is in terms of engine protection but the gear change became much slicker. I only use Castrol Racing now.

My mt09 is running happily with mineral oil.

Mobile 1 4T oil been the go to for years. Never had issues

My 2006 f650gs' manual strictly prohibits synthetic oil. I tried a blend last go around and no slippage... but I've decided to go back to regular oil this go around. Getting bmw's own oil and calling it a day.

C'mon man, I thought we're past the mineral oil for break-in myth. Also, the old bikes can work just fine with synthetic if the seals/gaskets are new. Old gaskets is what makes them leak.

I'd consider using a blend but only if I can determine the blends proportions of conventional / synthetic. I looked into this a few years ago and found no info about it. For all I know a company can produce an oil with only 5% synthetic and call it a blend. I've considered making my own 50/50 blend but decided to stick with pure synthetic.

The price of semi and fully synthetic is almost very neglible that it makes more sense to buy fully synthetic. Im using amsoil for many years now

Have always used Mineral oil for break in then changed to synthetic after in all my bikes. Dirt or street. Synthetic seems to help with shifting also even in my smallest bike the mighty Grom. Lol

Here in Thailand I get Amsoil moto oil for $9 per quart. Use in CBR 150 Cruise at 8-9000rpm.

3:08 Me and school where no match either, I am a teacher now......no lubricant used.

thats one thing thats never covered anywhere. why certain grades of oil are required. ive put rotella 15-40 in an engine that says to use 5-20 and 5-20 in a 0-20 engine and i see no difference. ive also used (in low performance engines) standard synthetic oil that goes in a car in motorcycles with no clutch feel changes. only change i noticed is the secondary locks in a bit later in the rev range on semi-auto bikes

I have asked 4 different dealers (2 of which are directly associated with my bike's manufacturer, Honda) and I have gotten pretty close to 4 different answers about what to run.. full synthetic because temps fluctuate very heavily... mineral because that is what the manual calls for and so long as you do yearly, will make absolutely no difference in terms of life-span of the engine and finally two said run mineral for break-in and first change then switch to semi or full synthetic after 10,000km... the major difference in the two answers was one said after 10,000 and the other said for your second oil change... implying between 10,000 and 13,000km (12k intervals) so yeah, I can do pretty much w/e I want.

Ive been usung T6 in my vstrom for tbe past 3 oil changes, noticed no change to the clutch feel or shifting.

Dear CC. Can U make a video on Enduro/Motocross/Dual Sport helmets?

Regarding the vintage bikes, mineral oils are only required by really old engines that were designed with higher ZDDP content in mind, a zinc additive that is very good at preventing wear, but doesn’t play nicely with catalysers. Hence why modern oils lack it. It’s very rare to find it though, and usually the package says something like “for classic motorcycles” or something. A good rule of thumb is that if the engine requires leaded gasoline, it will probably benefit from these oils as well. If your bike starts to leak on synthetics, it’s not the fault of the oil, but rather that the worn out seals weren’t quite worn enough yet to leak mineral oil. A good solution is to run a sealing additive, the Motul stuff works quite well in my experience, we tested it on a leaking main seal on a tractor from the 60s and it actually stopped the leak and all other leaks as well. Synthetics are usually a lot stickier as well, so you have more of a residual oil film on startup to protect your engine before it builds oil pressure. If your bike isn’t from the preWW2 era, run a good synthetic, and do an oil change after around 200-500 km after the first time you change to synthetic, as the synthetic oil tends to wash out a lot of old gunk that the mineral oil has deposited over the years. And never run car oil in your bike, they contain anti-friction compounds that causes you clutch to slip that aren’t present in motorcycle oils. If your clutch starts to slip on motorcycle synthetic oil, your clutch is probably on the way out anyhow.

I have annoying swirls and soft marks on my fuel tank, could you make a video on how to remove them? I was thinking of using Arexon's paste...

I never understand how people can cheap out on engine oil..

Synthetic oils are the best for any internal combustion engine. And manufacturers don’t recommend “mineral oils” specifically. They tell you what weight and classification of oil to use. The only difference between a mineral and synthetic 20 W 40 oil is the synthetic oil will not break down as quickly in high heat applications which is important for air cooled bikes. Manufacturers make 4 stroke synthetic oils for a reason. THEY’RE BETTER!!!

It's fine to use the oil the manufacturer's recommend but it's not written in stone and often there is better stuff out there. Royal Enfield recommends Semi 15W-50 for my Classic 500. I use full synthetic 20W-50 and I think it is better in every way. Also, I would use full synthetic in an older bike without hesitation. I have been an A.S.E. certified Master Tech for more than 25 years.

Why don't we use essential oil? It's got _essential_ in the name. That should tell us something, right?

Hey CC, I'm about to attain a 1981 Honda cb650 online transverse 4 cylinder motorcycle. Hasn't been run in 21 years. Only has 31K original miles on the clock. I need to pick your brain for a proper oil to use in this bike-its carborated. My suspicion is the use of conventional oil, yet, I need to know from a trained professional-the right pathway to this issue. Doug👍🏍️🤓

clutch slip too you forgot to mention :)

I know the service puts Yamalube in the machine (xmax 300), since it is "recommended". I guess it's OK then ...

literally just changed my oil. its 15w50 for my aprilia

My good ol 2004 honda, While under influence of the mineral oil, there are wear on the cylinder wall (50k kms odo) not too bad but still pushing me to go to machine shop and bore it down .25, change a b c d e parts and a lots more. Dang its a pain in the ass to work with (and money ofc🤣). Now its running with a full 20w-50 synthetic oil, never have any problem whatsoever while going 100km back and forth every day. Since then i never trust a mineral oil for my daily motorcycle i would rather be walked then run my engine with mineral oil

I don't know what type, synthetic or conventional, to use in my Yamaha XSR700 cause the manual doesn't specify. So I can only guess either is fine. But I just got the bike, a 2018, and did an oil change with conventional b/c the cost difference was so significant, much worse than automobile oil.

Can I use 20w40 in replace of 10w40 what effect in engine please suggest me?110cc

Ester based oils break down in contact with water molecules at temp. PAO is the way to go.

You service manual has the right answer. If you have an old bike, up to about 1990 you should be using regular oil.

mineral is fine just change it according to manufacturers advise.

The only problem with the semi synthetic oil is that they don't tell you what percentage of the oil blend is actually synthetic so they can put 1% in and call it semi synthetic oil or they could be 50% how do you know 🤔

I have Honda Cbr 600rr 2004 and i use motul 7100 oil. I think it is good shite👍🏻

what about the shell rotella class oils...? I've been using for years whith no problems...they act like a sinth but are mineral and cost less, the only thing is the change intervals gotta be like mineral oils...but i change when the gearbox gets bad to find the neutral with the engine very hot... ( it happens with about 2000 kms or 6 months)

I dont know about you guys but I had no voice on what oil was my bike gonna have for its break in period 😂

You had me at Lubricity 😅

How many kilometers before you change oil sir?

Tried full synth oil on my MT09 twice, two different brands, hated it, it made shifting horrible. Semi forever.

Semi-Synthetik is best

how about full synthetic?

The base material of "synthetic oil" is just regular old crude oil, pumped out of the ground like any other motor oil.

i quess yamahas dont care what soup you put in them but i run fully synthetic oil.

Nice

Never have exact answer, even same bike, same engine. Mineral, semi, or synthetic, just find whatever it work for you and your engine.

Chaos are people that ride electric bikes really someone you can call a friend though😂

Is it better to use cars oils or not

Electric bike and oils! 😂😂😂

Oh yea yea

I don't have any friends! But if I did, and they ride the evil electron powered scoot, I would shoot them this video!! Very funny!! got a great laugh out of that one!!!!

my motorcycle brand recommends 10 w 30 i live in climate with 40 degree celsius outside since it is small 200 cc one and has a euro 6 standard engine can i use 10 w 40 or 20 w 40 in my motorcycle though it is under warrenty but i feel like recommended grade is not working properly can you provide me a suggesion on it

I put synthetic oil in motorcycle once and it started leaking oil from everywhere

A friend with an electric bike is no friend

Lubricity?

What about cooking oil ? 😅

The conversation on what oil to use is easy... RTFM: Read The Fucking Manual!!! The manufacturer designed the engine to run in a specific way. Leave it at that.

This is obsolete knowledge that is only relevan 30 years ago. Today, most engine oil with "full synthetic" mostly contain more refined mineral oil. Since most offered in thin viscosity, it has very bad heat resistant compared to PAO oil. so now we see more people suffere oil evaporation and engine sludge. because they stupidly believe they use synthetic when in reality they just use overprice mineral.

Synthetic oil with a bit of palm oil

My bike takes whatever oil I dream of putting in and that’s probably because I only have a bike at night in my dreams 😂😂😂😂😅😅😅😢😢

I just use vegetable oil. Much more cleaner for the environment and plus I can get it at any grocery store.

At least my man got a B+ in Mandarin.

Because your bike deserves only the best… my wallet disagrees 😂

10w40. Synthetic, 4t, v twin😅

Ground zero here, just 3 views.

For gonna sake - don't extend your oil change intervals.

" a low revving commuter " more like reliable commuter ;) i might be biased cause I own a NC750x haha

Synthetic oil will destroy bronz phosphorus bushings and fibre clutch plates don't be a plumb, ,I use acrylic paint white, deluxe wash and where or solver uv... track &street

Mineral oil cheap? Motorex mineral oil for ktm clutches is 7€ per 100ml so it's 70 € for 1 liter 😂😂

"Share this video with a friend who rides an electric bike" = "Don't share this video". Because nobody likes electric bike riders 😀.....I'm just kidding.

Don't rely on a Click Bait video for advice on what type of oil to put in your vehicle. Synthetic oil is a man-made lubricant that consists of artificially made chemical compounds. Synthetic oils are typically created from chemically modified materials such as petroleum components, but the base material is almost always distilled crude oil. I.E. Synthetic oil is just regular Mineral Oil that has special chemicals. No Synthetic oil is really 100% synthetic. Ever notice the honing procedure done to cylinder walls? That's so they can hole oil as the piston is going up and down. Even the oil scraper ring cannot remove all the oil. This is done on purpose. Some burnt oil gets in the hone marks and gets scraped into the oil. That's why your oil turns black. That's soot from the combustion process. This is by design. Before you decide what kind of oil is best for your vehicle, so some homework and read your factory manual. And don't ask the kid at the oil change shop. He has no clue!

Chaos always wiggles around like a kid that has to pee

Synthetic isn't more expensive these days IME