Thanks for the feedback and you're most welcome. I've been testing other things out which I'll share soon enough, just making sure they are worth doing first :)

It's a cheap trick for a decent gain, glad it's worked for you, cheers.

How did you bypass the wategate module ?

Awesome, glad it's working for you! I'll do another video of the pin out and how to test it all in the future.

My pleasure, glad it's working for you :)

It's good value, glad it's doing the job

Yeah awesome, maybe your MAF was a bit ordinary. Glad it's worked out

​@@dinosshed do you leave the big red plug unpluged after the mod?

​@@dinosshed please explain the other wire, you mentioned the orange with blue marker but bridge to which colour wire?

@@dinosshed I couldn’t see clearly what wires on video is it looking at plug top far left wires to link in to please

Hey mate, glad to see you’re interested in getting your hands dirty on a disco👍 The biggest reasons for the difference in performance between the two is nearly 20 years of development as the Td5 was developed in the 90’s, vehicle weight, transmission gearing and the fact that the Td5 is softly tuned. It’s easy to push them out past the 200hp mark with an ecu chip/flash which also comes with a huge torque increase. If you’re running taller/bigger tyres than standard this will also have a large affect on acceleration. If you do you’ll need to lower the final drive ratio to offset them. This Maf mod or hack will make a big difference ‘if’ your existing Mad is not working properly, often pick up drivability lower in the rev range and off boost.

They’re a great base to start from and are a good size for fitting plenty gear in. I haven’t spent anything on mine other than changing fluids and the usual, sounds like you’ve bombed yours with the good stuff. Was wondering who, how much and where you got your tune?

@@dinosshed no idea the disco was owned buy a charity that helps youths I got off them after they sold it due its age everything was in perfect condition the land rover tech stated we did as they asked . so no idea it just pulls hard off road and on

Hey mate, should be a white coloured wite trace. Currently watching my hot neighbour give my missus a lap dance, bit difficult to concentrate. The colour code runs from the tps connected to the throttle back to the ecu. It will vary in voltage depending on where you have the throttle position. At idle it will be under a volt and run up to 4 volts at 3/4 to full. Actually drops off to mid three's between 3/4 and full.

It just sorts out that nasty lag between idle and turbo kicking in. The oil is tracking down the wiring loom that enters the engine to control the injectors. The cable acts like a hose and the oil flows down into the ecu plug.

The oil is creaping through injector wirings. You should change it. A common problem, easy to fix.

The idea and general point about the ‘how to’ videos I’ll upload are for the average Joe who’d rather keep their wallet full and have a go at fixing their own vehicles. There’s no way I’d be happy buying a new maf for x amount of dollars to find out I could have done this extremely cheap mod for the same result. No doubt a good chip/tune, cooler and exhaust will do wonders but I’d rather put that money towards something else like a winch.

While i agree it's way cheaper than a remap, it is less than £20 for a maf sensor, seems a perfect way to void your insurance if the insurance company want to remain the pricks they are, now we're talking real money

@@ragga2316 cheap MAF dont last been there done that

What didn’t make sense? It’s tps signal voltage feeding off to the maf sensor input fooling the ecu.

Hey mate, I’m in Brisbane, will put up some more content once I’ve finished painting the house 😉

Dino's are you still in Brisbane and have you any updates on this subject 🤔 I'm a new subscriber and new to the td5 Thanks from Gladstone qld 👍🏻

Yeah, just leave it disconnected from the maf.

Glad you’ve had a go and it’s worked out👍

Dino's Shed what colour is the tps wire ?

Mate it’s white and is in the top left hand corner of the black plug when looking at the plug from the wire out side. If you have a multimeter you can check by referrencing the tps signal to ground. As you depress the accelerator pedal the voltage will increase, just have ignition on without the engine running. I’ll upload more videos when my internet gets upgraded, let me know how you go. Cheers

Leave it unplugged from the maf

Mine is a 10p and with the Maf disconnected it was no different as the sensor wasn’t working at all. Literally wouldn’t get out of its own way prior to making boost, now it’s much better since providing the ecu with the same signal as the tps. I have heard this before about the 10p vs 15p but I’ve found a totally different result playing out. The forums that state the Maf sensor makes no difference to fueling often mention to replace it if the engine runs sluggish off the mark which is contradictory. Ask someone else who’s done it or try it yourself.

@@dinosshed are you using an NNN ECU as this will make a very big difference.

Nope, just the original one for a 2000 year Td5, I had the discussion with a well known Td5 chip tuning guru and I sent him photos of it. He couldn’t get his head around it either. When I get my internet upgraded I’ll be adding more in-depth videos on it.

Perhaps you have a different tuneid or something for a different market making it work differently

It’s possible, not sure why you’d have a Mass air flow meter if you’re not using it to measure the mass of air flowing through the engine. It’s easy enough to try and put back to standard if it didn’t work

Hey Dan, to be honest it’s got the potential to aid in throttle response down low in the off boost/low boost area but a good working Maf is going to do similar above that. Thankfully it’s very easy to try and revert back to standard if you find it does nothing for you.

@@dinosshed thanks mate

Hey mate, sorry for a late reply. It won't alter the boost cut, just gives you the opportunity to delete the maf sensor and gain some torque off idle.

Might be a bit difficult to diagnose from where I sit. Need to make sure you have connected the correct pin out and check the voltage sweeps with throttle application. I've been meaning to upload another video detailing a bit more of the correct wiring and how to confirm operation. It's been a very busy time for me though.

I haven’t mapped mine but it picked up plenty of off boost performance by doing this mod. I’d try it out and if it doesn’t like it let us all know. Easy to revert back to standard.

I haven’t yet sorry mate, I’m working 7 hours away from home at the moment. I’ll definitely get it done when I’m back. The pin outs you need are the first wire in from the top left corner. Maybe yours will look brown with green trace, if you have a multimeter you can test which one it is by checking continuity between maf plug and the ecu plug. Obviously you’ll need to disconnect it from the ecu beforehand.

It's easily verified with a multimeter, just have the ignition on and you'll see it sweep from 0.8 volts through to 4 give or take. I've been slaving hard and not had time to push out another video on it.

Anytime you labour an engine in a tall gear you’ll increase the egt. This engine is ok to 550/600c before damaging it. My egt has increased by 20-30 if I push it, still well under the maximum.

Still going strong mate, destroyed the doughnut on the rear prop, engine running fine.

@@dinosshed Awesome Let me know if you find a bypass method on the rear doughnut! The other halfs one isnt looking too good

@@AbsoluteAcid2112 I'm looking into fitting a front diff flange to the rear which will allow fitment of a universal joint in place of the doughnut. It'd be cheaper and easier to just replace the rubber but I'm toying with making one out of a different bonding.

Unfortunately it won't, it's td5 only.

Thanks, I haven't used one on this set-up but it's definitely worth trying. It's easy enough to revert back to original if it doesn't help. I'm interested to hear how it goes. Cheers Dean

I will give it a try and let you know!

Basically you’re disconnecting the Mass Air flow sensor (Maf) from the circuit. You then connect the Maf sensor wire to the throttle position sensor (tps) circuit. When you press the accelerator pedal down the engines computer (ecu) sees the same signal voltage at both the Maf and Tps but the signal is only coming from the throttle position sensor, tricking the ecu into thinking it’s seeing the voltage from the Maf. It puts more fuel into the engine and makes more power down low in the rev range as a result.

@@dinosshed thank you, please just confirm...should I remove the pins at the red plug for the MAF or just tie into it? same at the TPS wire side?

Hey mate no need to remove pins, just unplug the connector to the Maf sensor and tie the tps and Maf together. If you have a multimeter you’ll see the voltage change as you depress the accelerator pedal.

@@dinosshed perfect I am with you now. Thanks

But the scary thing is it’s so fucking loud

It's still going fine. Doesn't chuck a bunch of soot out. If your maf is ok, then it might not be a massive gain.

My MAF is ok all hot wires in place but still fill delays when pushing throttle before acceleration because of it I’m usually disconnecting MAF and running without it and it have more rev, so your trick must be more better because ECU gets direct signal from throttle and potentially should not have lag I presume

Ok, no worries. Every vehicle I've converted is running fine, one of them was more like 3 year's ago. I've been busier than a one legged man in an arse kicking competition, one day I'll get back to some decent videos.

This one is a manual, still going fine years later, cheers.

You’re not supposed to be cutting anything, you join them together mate. The throttle wire and Maf wire are connected to each other with a jumper wire. You may have cut the throttle position sensor wire which will kill the signal all together.

Mine did exactly the same .. so I also just cut the wire. Hey Dino .. I think he means the same as me .. we cut the new jumper wire only.. to restore to normal. I realised a little later, and probably the same goes for Max, that I also FORGOT to disconnect the MAF plug. I'll reconnect and make sure the plug is disconnected this time .. as soon as I get a bit of free time.

You fucked it! Nah mate, if your Maf is good before you may not notice a ‘massive’ gain. Mine was screwed and could barely get it to move when not boosted. Still should give you a noticeable gain in the off boost rev range, mine chicks out diesel smoke with the bypass and didn’t before.

Cheers for the reply. I'll give it a good test drive tomorrow and see.

No worries mate, it’s worked well for a few that I know of, they did have rooted MAF though.

Hey mate, there's probably no real gain performance wise if your maf is in good shape. It will provide a bit more initial take-off from idle but no gain after that. It tends to operate more like a mechanical injection system. A huge benefit is the ability to make your own intake/air filter system without the need to incorporate a new maf sensor. Also handy if you blow an intercooler pipe off, you'll still be able to accelerate to a safe spot. Hope this helps :)

Thanks for the reply, going to do this to mine, soon as it passes the MOT.@@dinosshed

This one still gets 9l/100 with mods that would hurt economy. If everything else was stock it'd get 8l/100 easily. Just remember to disconnect the Maf once you bypass it.

Mine improved because my Maf sensor wasn’t working at all. It’s 8/9 litres per 100km. The benefits are much better response from idle to 2,500 rpm and the fact you’ll never need to buy a new Maf.

@@dinosshed i cant find the tps wire on sthe computer..

Easiest way is to google search the Td5 ecu harness pin out. Both pins are the top left of each plug.

@@dinosshed thank you

I did it it feels like 10-15 hp more.

That might not be the sensor failing as they’ll buck/misfire when over boosting. Check the actuator control solenoid and clean the map/intake air temperature sensor on the intake manifold.

@@dinosshed those were all checked map clean as a whistle actuator moving as it should, was the maf sensor

How annoying then! I couldn’t justify spending those dollars which is one reason I put the bypass to the test. No Maf to fail anymore and it’s gained some low down grunt.

@@dinosshed Mine is quite heavily mapped as well, had a mild map back when I had to drive home from poland with it unplugged, no bucking after that, Think I will by pass it anyway, Something less to worry about after that.

Hey mate, you leave the plug disconnected from the Maf sensor, otherwise it’ll cause problems. 👍

Top one pal

You’re welcome, let me know how you get on with it 👍

It will depend if you have a two or three track tps. One of them will range down as you depress the accelerator and the other ranges up. Best to trace the wire colour that is at your throttle pedal and locate it on your ecu. Use a multimeter to verify the signal, it will range from roughly 0.8 volts with ignition on, engine off, pedal at rest, to around 4.0 volts with accelerator depressed.

Do I leave the maf connected or disconnect

@raoultelting6406 definitely disconnect it.

If your air flow meter works properly then you might only notice a small increase in response off idle. This modification prevents the need to buy a new maf etc.

Mine doesn't chuck a code, just check the air flow readings and you'll see them increase with throttle. At least that's what happens with the dozen or so that I've done. The other way to confirm it works is to disconnect one of the boost pipes and see if you can drive it. If it's not done correctly it will be a complete slug to take off.

@@dinosshed the flow increases with the throttle, but nanocom has a code too low because when off throttle the flow is 00

@@camd7452 as long as it registers flow increase kg/hour of air etc then it will work. Mines a 10p manual and I've done both 15p and auto. Take it for a drive and see how it goes.

@@dinosshed might be 1sec delay then pulls, think it worked, re did the wire jumper

@@dinosshed thanks for your help !

I'd argue there's more messing about to replace the airflow meter than join two wires. Deleting the meter allows for easy air filter housing upgrades as well.

Check if you’re getting the 0-5volt signal at the Maf input to the ecu, it should increase with the acceleration pedal.

Why’s that mate?