Came For the dulcet Henry tones. Stayed for the shoulder pad peels. 😂

I really liked the rambly nature of this video. So please carry them on going forward.

and just like that I've accidently decided to do a black templars army...

Love the tutorials. Y’all have made me a better painter with the clear guides!

Love this black templar army project! Incredibly helpful and very inspirng for my own crusaders.

Thanks for all the practical and abstract advice, there's a few notes to make. I feel much the same about mould lines, and I remember painting a few chaos marines just before 3rd ed 40k and thinking, well, power armour would me manufactured somehow, maybe some bits have mould lines too, haha. Somewhat similarly, I know that first layer of transfers are well hidden, but it's kind of fitting for Black Templars, whose oldest suits of armour would be painted over a few layers of Imperial Fists schemes. I sometimes think of that concept with 2nd founding chapters, how legion coulours might show up on say, a relic power fist, or through battle damage, but that might be a bit festidious ha. Great to see all the food for thought about airbrushes and bristles here too! While it's cool seeing the latex come off, the most satisfying bit was how that brush went painting that little perpendicular facet of the shoulder guard trim. It's one of those tests of a brush for me, oddly enough

Hey Henry, I've really enjoyed the rambly video. It was cool to see you hobby, hearing thoughts and the QA. As a side part I'm really looking forward to seeing the dread for this project!

I enjoyed the rambling army painting vid, great to have on when painting. Keep them coming

Thank goodness the Dread is saved. We can call off the rioting

Thank goodness the Ultramarines dreadnought is saved. Great video! It's awesome inspiration for Black Templars.

great stuff as always, really enjoy the thoughtful insights (and appreciate the heads up on the decals)

Great video, really enjoyed seeing your workflow - a few tips i picked up along the way. Thanks for answering my question, appreciated the expanded answer on what your KZfaq is for. Glad to hear you will be doing more passion projects, and more multi-part stuff on KZfaq, and I will take a peek on the patreon when I can. Templars are looking great, especially enjoy the offwhite shoulder pads 👍

love this series!

Yeah, just seeing you hobbying is cool, because we see you do things that normally don't make it into the video's are we can learn from as well.

Daaaaaaaamn! That airbrush is nice! I have never been tempted by a new airbrush before, but that is seriously tempting.

Great video as always Henry. Nice to hear your take on AO - Pretty much same take as me - It's nice to see small companies pushing the boundary and I'm usually happy to pay a few extra ££ to support them. Looking forwards to NMM course next week at Incom with you guys

I‘ve enjoyed it and am looking forward to the next templar video!

Variety is the spice of life so I enjoy seeing a bit of variation in video style. Great video as always.

I loved this video series.

this kind of video is great for when i paint! more plz! :)

awesome video thanks for this

I really enjoy this type of video! Please continune them!! =)

As someone who loves and collects Templars as well I cannot recommend Themightybrush decals highly enough. They have such awesome designs in general but also a bunch of Templar specific ones and they work and look beautiful on the model, so maybe have a go at those if you like them! Also I love this project because of the uncut and chill vibe,, so I can't wait on the next one, great work as always!

I found The Mighty Brush transfers to be chaotic to work with compared to GW/Forgeworld - look great once you’ve unstuck them from themselves though!

As someone who's planning some hh dark angels, that was interesting as always thank you !

So glad you saved the dreadnought!

If it helps anyone, look for liquid latex for things like special effects. You can usually find bigger bottles that work out cheaper and it's the exact same stuff

I have the same process for mold line clean up honestly, I use a file for initial clean up though instead of scraping, then 400 grit sand paper THEN thin plastic glue, but I used the stuff from plastruct then inspect and sand/file where needed, on every model...and just think, I'm starting up tyranids...pray for me

i hope the Black temp new vidios are coming out soon. using your painting guied and its going relly well. love wahting your BT vids when panting.

for filling gaps : there are several good methods. For nasty gaps - try to get hold of some polystyrene card like evergreen. Cut it into a smallish piece and shove it into the gap and add thin glue. Cut the excess , sand smooth and be done. Has limits. Hard to reach spaces , curved spaces etc tend to not work well. perfect for gaps on flat straight pieces. Think vehicles/armour. Fill them with a 2 part putty like milliput or greenstuff. For filling I'd stick to milliput as it drys harder than greenstuff and therefore is more sandible. Also milliputs is way easier to smooth out with water and a sculpting tool or even just your finger. Already mixed putty. Mostly used in scalemodelling. Tamiya Putty, Ak Putty. Apply with a toothpick. Apply a bit more than you need putty may shrink while curing. Very easy to sand after drying. Great smooth results. For shallow imperfections Mr. Hobby Surfacer 500 / 1000 / 1500 works great. The higher the number the smoother and less "filling" it is. Sprue-Goo is another great alternative. Buy thin cement or just use acetone (pretty much the same thing anyway) Use a GLASS bottle/jar/empty paint jar(tamiya/mr- hobby) or just an empty tamiya/mr hobby thin cement jar. Fill or siphon the cement/acetone untill the aplicator brush(if you used the emtpy cement jar) is 1/3 in the liquid. Then just dump a bunch of sprue cuts into the liquid and let it desolve. Tada = sprue goo =) Sprue goo tends to shrink while drying and also has a bit longer curing time.

That looks like a lovely jumper there, Henry!

It's funny you mention how you've started to enjoy doing more glow for the eyes over the typical lens/gem style because I've started to do that too. As for the trouble with decals, I've started to enjoy airbrush stencils. No need to make it look like a painted on finish when it actually is painted on.

8:08 people from the scale model hobby world seem to like Mr. Hobby's liquid mask. Have not tried it myself, but maybe you could give them a go.

I hope you go with some yellow weapon casings with flames!

Interesting to hear what you had to say Henry! However, I gotta admit that I’m looking forward to seeing a bit more structure in the next video. Good stuff regardless!

For black armor I love chromatic black.

My new resin 3d prints really come out extremely details with no mold lines. Tiny chips sometimes near supports but honestly not bad. Really recommend it to everyone. Dont fall for monopoly plastics 50$++++ for 5 marines.

Got my first air brush setup on the way. Got a fengda compressor and airbrush coming but ordered the h&s ultra aswell. Hoping to smash marines out with it. Keep coming second in local paint comps to an air brush user. No more!!!

Would love to see more of that Sisters of Battle project you have!

I've had the same decal issues with the new Age of Darkness box set. However not with the old imperial fists sheet or the FW sheet you mentioned.

Shiny Decal borders - This has been a frequent issue with decals that i have used in a variety, or a plethora of model kits, that I have built going back into the 70's when I barely at my dad's hip. On the last 20 years I have gradually adopted a process to make decals appear as if they were painted on. Some of what I learned was from watching another KZfaq model builder, Boyd from Trekworks. I use Micro Sol/Set to lay the decal and use Solva Set (the model railroad hobbies) which will melt the film causing a more painted on look. You have to be VERY careful with Solvaset as it literally melts the decal. Use caution and test a few decals so you know how they respond and each sheet likely will respond different. After the decal has dried over night I will hit with the appropriate matt/clear coat as desired. It is impossible to see the decals and they look painted on. p.s. Tamiya glue - get a good glass bottle with pure acetone and paint that on your mold lines. Tamiya glue is Acetone cut to reduce strength and adjust viscosity.

I believe that doing one Squad at a time is a smart thing to do. That way if there is various changes it looks appealing still.

Been really keen on that basing vid you were gonna put out for the Templars, I hope we'll see that one coming along soon as well, even if you're taking a bit of a break from the marines themselves

Love the work! Any tips for weathering black armor?

This will help me with my Deathwatch, I started them following the lore so I'm painting them in their original color then painting it black to have some of the original hue showing through the black. For my Kill Team Cassius I'm using metallic paints and they are looking interesting

Always great vids. You have the knack of making the painting process that is able to be done by anyone. Always interesting, informative and inspirational all at the same time. Just with brushes how many do you have, what sizes do u use Cheers

My Forge World Ultramarine decals did the same thing. My other decals on the model were fine. I thought the varnish would help get rid of the sheen but it didn’t. I really didn’t want to risk messing up the rest of my model to remove it so I just left it on.

I feel so much better that my Cult of Paint airbrush looks similar to Henry's. I need to spend time time cleaning mine up, but now I don't feel as bad that I am not alone in my struggle with keeping it clean like it was new and out of box.

More army painting videos!

I really love the whole black Templar series and all the answered questions were quite helpful and insightful! Definitely will work on my Templars in the next months! I was thinking of using your black Templars black scheme for a black legion army and therefore maybe using a „colder“ oil wash to make them look a bit more sinister😅 Do you have a recommendation for such an oil wash? Maybe like a greenish tone ?

The state of that Infinity.... 😬😂 I keep mine (no. 764) clean, very clean. Unlike my work bench, which is a complete mess. I like the trigger on the Cult of Paint brush, sadly mine does not have the custom engraved lid for the larger paint cup.

Don’t mind the ramble! Nice to get a bunch of different touch points in a video rather than the normal format, a nice change for once in a while!

Hey Henry, with the upcoming FEC release on the horizon it would be amazing if you could do a necrotic flesh/ ghoul flesh tutorial for us all. Especially using oils if possible. ❤

finding an art shop or hobby shop that sells decent brushes seems to be so difficult these days, so i mostly have to buy mine online. i've had horrible luck with WN brushes, which was super confusing when i was starting out and people recommended them and i struggled to use them, basically because i didn't know any better and later on realised that i'd just ended up with ones with bad tips. i've had much better luck with AO, but i do wish there was somewhere closer where i could look at them in the flesh before buying.

6:09 - we're never ever cross with you, Henry! :-)

I've recently read that Artis Opus brushes are supposedly rebranded/modified rosemary and co brushes. I've never tested out to see how similar they are to see if this is correct. I have also noted on rosemary's website that they also sell drybrushes that look similar to the D series which sort of supports this. I guess it is a bit like how the good games workshop brushes are actually made by windsor and newton.

27:00 very true, people tend to make bold statements about what brush (or other product) they like the most. In fact you did that as well when you said "Harder & Steenbeck is so far ahead of everyone else" (22:40). I myself must have made similar statements about products I like as well, so not trying to call you out. Just saying you proved your own point.

I hope the new ultra will be better than mine... i got an ultra a few years ago and I spend hours and hours cleaning it over and over again instead of painting with it. switched to an infinity and havent regretted it since. jsut way better for cleaning and no clogging at all. so yeah, hope the new ultra doesnt have these problems i had

So I've been seeing people making up a lot of pigment powder washes recently, would those generally be OK to put through an airbrush (depending on solvent used) or to add powders along with thinners to a paint mixture that you are going to put through an airbrush? In specific I'm wondering about the idea of adding graphite powder to a black paint and maybe some black ink for a sort of TMM highlight without going going to a significantly lighter hughe.

Do I need spray booth for airbrushing? Everyone says I need one but I never saw anyone actually use one.

Not sure if I missed it but is the rakarth flesh for the white the only change you made to the scheme since the original terminators? Black still the same?

Whenever I gloss varnish via my airbrush to do pin washing, it always makes my paint job darker which is really annoying. Am I doing something wrong?

It's a shame scale model manufacturers don't make decal sheets for wargaming, Eduard have the best decals I have ever used by a long shot, plus with their newer sheets, once the decal is in place you can remove the carrier film from the model all together! On the airbrush conversation, I have tried a Steenbeck but I just didn't get on with it, I think it's very much the same thing as with normal brushes, you need to find what works for you individually. For example, after the H&S I tried a UMP Apex, which is much more simple for example there is no backstop for the needle, no interchangable colour cup and so on, but for me it absolutely blew the H&S out of the water, there was no comparison the Apex just did what the Steenbeck did better, plus it feels much more robust and less fussy, it's an absolute workhorse, plus UMP are another UK based company and their service just feels more friendly, for example, if you place an order with UMP, it gets delivered with a hand written thank you and a packet of Haribo!

what sanding paper/stick grit is recommended for models?

When are we getting Cult of Paint T-Shirts? Because I would love a T-shirt!

looks they are finally releasing the CoP trigger as an accessory, no date yet, but they said it's coming

3:40 - are you spraying tamiya extra thin through the airbrush there, to smooth out the second sanding stage?

Love it. Did the jump pack captain come with the two handed thunder hammer or where's the bit from?

Glad to hear you'd recommend the new Ultra, I was looking to pick one up as my first airbrush. I would love a CoP signature series one so I've sent them a message 😂 might hold out buying one now in case they do. Fingers crossed!

If you call your entry level brush "Ultra", what do you call the rest of the line?

What is that sanding sponge in the beginning? Where to find these?

What sanding sponge brand / grit are are you using?

Microsol/set gets rid of the frosty outlines

I prefer the finish of painting metallics over black

hi there henry, how much bar, pressure did you use when you used the white over black in the beginning of the video and what "size" was the collar? just for intereset...

Always worry about putting varnish through an airbrush. What do you use to clean the airbrush after varnish has gone through it ?

What are those sanding sticks?

It looks like you have been making great progress on this project. It's a shame about the decals. Will you been painting any drop pods for this army? I am currently painting a bunch of them at the moment. I can't seem to get the weathering looking right on them. I'm usually pretty good at it. I had a good teacher. I've taken two of your classes when you were here in Australia.

Couldn't you put some matte varnish over the decals to tone down the gloss?

Asking for a friend, "will there be a Cult of Paint branded Ultra?"

Is it worth buying? air brush

Will you guys cover painting of other gaming systems ? Ie bolt action, moonstone etc

What camera do you use to film?

I did like the rambly tone of this video but I can see myself getting tired of it if this becomes every video. I know you expressly stated this wasn't going to be every video, so thank you. I do like the change of pace though and think like a once-a-month (or even every-second video) would be a nice change from the regular tutorials. But IDK, I'll watch the videos either way. Just keep being cool.

Please may I ask where you got all the old style helmets from? Thanks.

Plus, would you be willing to part with the Black Templar transfer sheets instead of chucking them in the bin?

Does the Ultra 2024 trigger can fit into the Infinity body and will it work ?

Hit up GW and let them know. They’ll send you more sheets.

Henry, do you guys use mixing white?

I really appreciate your comments about mould lines, because I always miss one no matter how hard I look for them all and wonder if it's just me? I hold the model at different angles, take pictures in black and white - every technique I can think of. And it doesn't help that - for me at least - it's the worst part of the hobby. The last time someone at an (unfriendly) game store pointed them out, I told him they "show the hand of the Omnissiah at work & removing them all is the mark of the Heretic!" He just grumbled and walked away!

Is the black recipe in the first tutorial?

Henry, how do like the new jetpacks from a aesthetic standpoint? I honestly thought them ugly as hell the first time I saw them but the more often I see them the more I like em kinda

My rakarth flesh looks way browner (purpler) than what you're getting here. Any idea why?

yaaa!!! didnt know the UM brutallus was on the chopping block to be converted to an illiterate templar who doesnt want to read a good book.

Got into a pretty heated discussion with a guy that claimed it's "silvering," do to trapped "airbubbles" and would not listen to me when I tried to explain how poor GW/FW decals can be at times. I do believe that FW is typically superior to GW, but there are times when FW has let me down. For as much money as they charge for their products, you'd think they'd get the transfer decals figured out by now..

I love the idea of this series, but I feel like the pacing is a little off.. Three weeks and only some base coats and decals done feels a little unsatisfying to me. No hate meant at all, I love the channel, I’d just like to see more progress per week, personally. Maybe I’m just impatient, and I know these are gonna turn out great!

My 2024 ultra is just clogged all the time. The "settings" are borderline pointless. The only that makes it better than the cheap airbrushes that come with the compressor is the trigger.

You should stop inhaling through your mouth. Try breathing more with the nose.

what dark paints did he use?