You got it😉

I felt the same way back when I was shortboarding. I always loved when it was smaller and I could take the bigger board out... now that im exclusevly longboarding i'm having more fun than ever

Oh it's cold.. but not bad with the suit on

Thanks Michael!

Thanks Henry!

haha sweet!

Thanks Luca!

You got it !

haha thanks!! glad you enjoy 😉

Awesome thanks!!

Yea that's huge! So much of our problems come from not looking in the right place. This goes for many sports

Awesome Thanks!!

thanks !! hope it helps you

thanks! You got it 🤙

Yep! One of my favorite towns to surf in

Thanks!

You got it!🤙

Thanks! 🤙

awesome! Yea definitely try this method out!

You got it! It does haha

Haha that’s hilarious! Yea try this method… pay attention to each step and it makes the whole process so much smoother and way more enjoyable

maybe the key is finding the right numbers of beers to walk home from the pub from. Enough so its enjoyable, and the time just flys by

hahaha

@@LongboardSessions what wetsuit do you use bro? you look nice and warm in those freezing watersr

Well in the spring/ summer / fall I typically use a 3/2. For winter I switch to the 5/4 with a hood

Thanks Chris! Glad you're enjoying it. YNWA

yea those were my favorite waves of the year so far!

haha thanks !!

Awesome thanks!!

I'll have to try and focus on that one day. My feet are typically not very parallel, but when I focus on pointing the hips towards the nose I always cross step way better

Yes! I'd love to learn that quick jump to the nose right after taking off.. havent tried it yet

@@LongboardSessions, after a fade curve, when you board is climbing the wave run to the nose, the wave will accelerate you and because you are are the nose you will stay at the critical wave part. The wave will run over your board's tail and sustein you at the nose with some hard tendency to skid sideways. Check Herbie Fletcher surfing and you will get it easy.

haha!🤙

Thanks Dillon! Yea it helps so much to focus on things rather than just "go surf". Although, some poeple disagree with me haha

@@LongboardSessions hahah oh I can imagine . Bit m I find myself sometimes just aimlessly paddling for a wave with no idea what I am gonna do so these vids have helped me Not over think but I definitely be more mindful when paddling for a wave.

that does work for some people. I tried that and it was a disaster haha

That’s how I feel mostly anything is. Can watch videos all day but the reality is the more you surf/ski/play music/woodwork, etc, the more muscle memory you develop and the easier it gets.

San o …my break

As a beginner, I surf at Rockaway Beach often. Small waves except when there's a hurricane in FL. I step accross my 8'4" board instinctively, just trying not to fall. I haven't watched or learned any particular technique. It just feels like the natural way to surf for me. I'm not into doing tricks, I just enjoy the ride and squeeze the fun out of a wave for as long as I can manage. It would be nice to learn to do it in a more structured way.

Those first two lines. Such a try-hard. Instead of trying to sound impressive in the comments why don't you just appreciate this quality content. Shrug.

Thanks so much!!

Thanks Jeff!

Thanks Eric! Yea it really is, even if you short board mostly. Always fun to get the longboard out on the right days

Keep at it.. you'll get it!

Oh sweet! No, this is actually NJ. However, i'll be in santa cruz for the month of march.. not too far from san fran

​@@LongboardSessions Nice, have fun! I'm liking that wetty hood and empty linup combo 🤙

Is it because you think you’ll nose dive? Or just that the whole thing feels clunky?

I'm in SoCal and ride up to double overhead. Also, often ride shortboard reef breaks here. Two suggestions: 1) perfect your angled takeoff. You can practice this on smaller waves if you take off from the peak (rather than the shoulder), 2) the power of larger waves allow you to get in much-much earlier. So, litterally way less steep than your smaller waves. Solves the nose dive issue. ...I'll leave a second message below as well.

I like to think of it like "The Trminator" movie its like how Arnold sees every thing with geometry and data analysis in is eyes. Normally, we catch waves at a 45% angle. With larger more powerful waves you can actually paddle it at 35%. Standing by 40%. Make sense?

Also, contrary to how it looks, the maneuvers and turns are much more drawn out and even seem slower on big waves. Because you are covering so much more real estate. Lastly, the only way to learn it is to paddle outside and do it! Remember, to breath and just go for it! Have fun!

@@LongboardSessions Its usually just fear of the drop. Everything is chunky like you said. Nosediving is a huge part of it.

Oh sweet! Iv'e been surfing some different spots lately, but I love L jetty.. especially when the middle left is working !

thanks so much! will do 🤙🤙

Awesome! Same here... and once I started longboarding I was HOOKED!

Oh nice! Yea I need to get a nice carving longboard... or build one

Awesome thanks Beckie!

thanks Adam! took me forever to edit haha

You know I love all your vids but this one was really tight and educating🤙🤙

@@noseridesnosedivessurfvlog8634 tight is what I was going for. Not easy sometimes as I get lost in all the writing and forget the point I’m trying to make haha

Tight… and legendary! Your communication skills are epic, and changing the clips almost every 3 seconds… I have seen it 3 times🤙🤙🤙 but I loved the message too. You have lifted the bar bro💪 kudos

Thanks so much Andrew!🤙

Awesome thanks! Yea this was a big realization in my surfing that's for sure!

@@LongboardSessions I saw this clip first and then a few others. You are very talented for someone who only recently made the switch from short board to Malibu. I think Joel Tudor and Alex Knost might be worried their secrets are being shared. Excellent analysis in each clip! 🤙

Thanks!! You will if you keep at it 👍👍

thanks!! it’s getting there !

Well said! Where are you located? Looks like a typo, or I just don't understand the abbreviation😂 I bet that 9'6" is so fun to ride. I tried out a heavier (older) board recently and it was awesome on a smaller day. The extra weight helps a bit in certain situations. No leash plug.. the thing would be a death trap on bigger days! I can't beleive some of the footage from the endless summer at pipeline.. guys wiping out on these heavy boards. I imagine there we're many concussions in those days

Very interesting. Well I would say that the majority of longboarders do bend their knees quite a bit while cross stepping. However, some keep pretty straight legs. I think you can adapt things to make it work for you as we are all built differently. I think if you try to stay in that cross stepped position you'll work out the correct body position for yourself. Let me know how it goes!

Thanks!! Yea it wil come with time… slowly but surely I’m feeling the wave a bit more!

Yes!

Thanks!! Yes It all comes down to experience and muscle memory. If we all had a perfect point break that had waves everyday, it wouldn't be so hard haha Yes it's a 5/4! Water is still freezing cold here in NJ! Can't wait for it to warm up

wow quite the opposite of me haha! I went from short to long and can’t imagine ever going back. Hey as long as we’re having fun

I’m just glad I started in the era of fiberglass boards and not Duke Kahanamoku’s time when Koa boards were 12’ long and weighed over a hundred pounds. As you say, as long as we’re having fun. Wish you endless summers.

Yea for real! I surfed an old board that was so heavy.. totally different experience

Looks like you grew up in Kauai? But those perfect noseriding waves look like somewhere else. I can still feel the drop-in, stall and walk up to the nose after over 40 years. Jealous.

awesome thanks so much! You gotta try this thought process.. been working well for me so far. what board did you get ?

@@LongboardSessions I got a 9'8" log shaped in a fairly classic shape with some modern additions. Got such a big shape to add volume cause I am a little taller and heavier than the average surfer (1.93cm and 92kg) Maybe on this board I can also paddle on my knees. Ha ha

@@claytonkensley203 excellent! I’m sure you’ll love it… maybe you can knee paddle on it 😂

haha!

Oh awesome! Yea shuffling may be a hard habit to break, but cross stepping is actually much easier than shuffling. Once you feel that aspect, you’ll never shuffle again haha

@@LongboardSessions now that its getting nicer out, I'm going to start with my skateboard.

@@jackquarantillo5192 great idea, that’s the best way

Yep! Live around there?

@@LongboardSessions so I grew up in Hazlet, NJ. Went to Raritan high school up through my senior year, but moved down to Florida my last year of high school and graduated in 99. Joined the military right after from 99-2006, got out and moved back down to Florida where I still reside with my wife and kids. I grew up surfing everywhere from Sandy hook, seabright, Monmouth beach, long branch, asbury park, 8th-16th street in belmar, hung out at eastern lines surf shop where zappo used to work, and miss ALL of the jetty breaks up that way. Used to surf year round like you and as much as I miss the waves, I don’t miss putting on or taking off that 5mm, boots, gloves, and hood. I used to skateboard my entire life as well, and would always take NJ transit to either meet up with my peeps in long branch, or go the other way to Hoboken to cross over on the path train to get into downtown Manhattan - usually got off at the World Trade Center before the 9/11 attacks. Growing up that way in the 80’s and 90’s was a different world then it is now. Glad to see you switched from short boards to long boards as I made the same transition when I hit like 34-35. Waves down here are mooshy so I’ll still take out a retro fish from time to time snd break out the regular thruster short if it gets super gnarly, but for the most part, and since my kids are 4 and 7 and learning themselves now, it’s longboard sessions these days for the most part. Love your channel and have been a sub for a while, but I’m not always on KZfaq so I miss a lot of your vids. With that said, you are giving awesome advice through your own trial snd error. Growing up we didn’t have the advantage of being able to film ourselves surfing and go pros weren’t around until the latter 2000’s. Keep up the good work my friend and look forward to more of your videos. I just recently got back into shaping after a 10 year hiatus from that, but just love doing it as a hobby. Like I said, keep up the great work my friend and keep pumping these vids out! You’re helping a lot of people

Yea both of those things are huge!

hmm who knows?? but it’s a great place ! would love to go back one day

So true! No two waves are ever the same.. learning how to read what's going on is the tough part. Iv'e never even tried a spinner yet haha

Nope, this is NJ

Wow very cool! Yea that extra 4' makes quite a difference haha. I have a similar story.. started out with a terrible board for beginners. It was a 5'10" thin shortboard. I stuck with it and ended up learning with it, but I coulda learned 5 times faster if I had the right board lol

Thanks!! I'm 5'4" 130 lbs. Currently Im riding a 9'6" COS Chingona. It's technically a little big for me, but I did that on purpose to speed up the learning process. Ideally I'd be on a 9'2" or 9'4" I imagine. As for fin it depends. I'm currently using a greenough 4a and have it in the middle. If I have a super stable fin on I'll typically put it all the way forward to help turning and the setup for noserides.

@@LongboardSessions I ride a 9'6'' as well and this summer I realized that the further back I place my fin, the more stable my board becomes when crosstepping to the nose. I also place it further front when I want to add more turning action to my board. Nice to meet you! Greetings from Surfprivate Coaching, Greece! 🇬🇷

@@No1AgiSdik yea that’s the rule of thumb. Further back more stable, further forward looser board. What I find is that on our steep quick Nj waves, having the fin further forward makes quick noseride setups much easier.

Thanks so much!

awesome! Yes, it's so much harder than it looks lol. However, that's what makes it fun IMO. Hopefully I'll have it all figured out soon enough haha

I do plan on making a comprehensive board guide in the future. Gonna be a tough video to make tho

Great to hear! Having tons of fun making the videos haha

Thanks so much! So glad it helps. Not sure where you are in your surfing, but this thursdays video will be a very basic video about turning longboards. Might be helpful

@@LongboardSessions awesome! I’ll keep an eye out for that video, subscribes!

Great advice tommy! I think you're especially correct when talking about waves like the one I ride. Fast beach breaks require getting to the nose ASAP.. can't do that unless your already start your steps in the middle of the bottom turn. Gotta keep working on that

thanks so much Billy! yea I spent quite a bit of time on this video haha. I felt like I was in a pocket finding groove that day… the fades were working real well!

That's when you have set the board up to where you're surfing the wave without doing much of anything. Once you set the board in the right direction and your surfing down the wave high up on the face, you're in trim. Kinda a hard thing to explain.

That's a great question and maybe someone with a bit more knowledge can chime in. In my opinion, 1 fin creates a certain "feel" that you can't get if you have sidebites on. Turning is where it really shines. With three fins, you typically do a more "sweeping" turn. With a single fin, you're able to sweep or pivot the turn and can really whip the board around faster, even though you lose speed doing that. When it comes to noseriding, i'm not exactly sure how the two extra funs could hurt or help you, but they're definitely not needed. The best way I can describe it is that three fins feels restricting, a large single fin feels like I can make the board do anything I want

Well said. If that first step is done correctly, all the other ones just fall right into place! Thanks so much

Thanks so much Andy! Check out this video I made. It covers that very subject 🤙kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rblof5t0y77ThHU.html

you can flip the board over and use your weight to hold the nose down and let the wave go over,then remount quickly.you can use your superior speed to try to charge out between sets

Awesome you got it! I would try and find the longest one you can... maybe try and get one used. Something that you can get atleast two steps on would be perfect

Thanks so much! I really gotta start categorizing my videos into playlists. The titles and thumbnails don't often give away what the video is about so it's tough to know what to watch if you're looking for a specific thing. I dont know how much rocker, but I know it's more than a usual traditional longboard. That's by design to fit into our NJ waves a bit better

haha right on!

You’re absolutely correct. What I really meant is getting your next step directly in front of your previous step. Often times this will be on the wave side of the stringer especially on steep sections

That last wave of yours especially… in the critical section the whole time with pressure on that inside rail

@@LongboardSessions definitely on that last wave. A couple of times I scooted my foot back towards the rail. Amazing what you learn about your surfing when you get to see it. That was a doozie of a day! It seemed like all the rides were pretty critical. My brother couldn't even make it out the back. I got lucky and punched through (with a little help from good timing).

@@jackquarantillo5192 nice! Yea video footage of yourself is huge when it comes to learning… I was considering making a video on that subject. I think drone footage is the best because it shows off your mistakes the most. GoPro is great for looking at your footwork

Not normally. I over compensate the step but don't look down. I than review the footage later and see if it was in line with the other foot. Trying to re train my muscles to do it correctly lol

Absolutely. Lots to learn from that guy

great place !

@@LongboardSessions one of these days you gotta come back and do a vid...

@@NN-og4kj absolutely!

lol Yes very true

I get you're point for sure, but my cross stepping isn't great. It's not bad, but needs plenty of work.

New jersey!

hard to stay in the pocket of a big wave.maybe two small fins and a bit of camber so it can wash out/side slip

Yea I hear you.. I basically have permanent bruises on the top of my rib cage that touches the board lol. I'm used to it at this point

haha! So true... I bet If i was a crowded lineup I'd focus a bit more lol

Love it. Iv'e seen the same thing. People who have been surfing for years and never improve. I was one of them until I really decided to hyper focus on a specific thing each session

SCIENCE!! lol. Well it's not like walking on a sidewalk. If you walked like that, you'd tip over. You have to open up your upper body while at the same time keep your feet in a surfing position. Then you have to step one foot in front of the other. Where your hips are make a huge difference, tilt of your upper body makes a huge difference, size of steps make a huge difference. What i'm getting at is that it's quite technical. However, every surfer approaches it differently and thats what's great about surfing

Plenty of kooks on either side. Just be nice to people

Well, iv'e had a few comments similar to yours since I started my channel. I think surfers approach things differently. However, I surfed most of my life without thinking. It wasn't until I started getting technical that I really started to improve. If you step an inch left or right, it effects the board.. so it is quite technical. Just my opinion🤙

@@LongboardSessions for sure man. I didn’t mean to rain on what your doing here. Good video though.

Oh no worries. I love getting into the weeds with this stuff haha

Nah, i'll keep doing it

I just teach what I learn as I improve which is helpful to people who are in the same boat. Go watch Ben Considine's channel if you're looking for an expert 😉