It seems that your power company is incompetent. That is sad. It took almost 2 years, but my power company finally fixed it. It is almost always dirty insulators or loose hardware (i.e. loose nuts, bolts, staples).

The 5000 has one of the lowest noise floors because it has low phase noise. But any sensitive receiver will receive atmospheric noise. The QRM Eliminator can help with noise but especially pulse type noise, like noise from electric power poles. The 5000 is still my favorite. 73, de N4HNH

Thank you Luciano! 73, de Doug

Mine did not come with a manual. Be sure to connect the PTT line from the QRM Eliminator to TX Gnd from your transceiver, or use a Heil FS-2 footswitch. The FS-2 can key your radio and provide the TX Gnd for the QRM Eliminator. The FS-2 keying line plugs into an adapter cable for your transceiver type. You need to order the cable. If you aren’t using the TX Gnd from your transceiver to key a linear amplifier, you can use it to provide the PTT for the QRM Eliminator. Also, be sure that you don’t run over 100W through the QRM Eliminator. 73, de N4HNH

Paul, I do thank God for my blessings. I did go 20 years before purchasing a new base station. I saved for it. That is why I am so discriminating when it comes to a radio's capabilities. My money has to be spent wisely. Plus, I need a radio that can be effective when using simple wire antennas. 73, Doug

I use VRF and mu-Tuning to minimize interference up and down the band. I also use it to combat noise, as I've shown in numerous videos. But VRF doesn't cancel out pulse type noise. It isn't designed for that. VRF can work against QRN. It can even help against interference from a strong signal out of band. But it can't cancel repetitive noise spikes, such as those from a power pole. That is the job of a noise blanker. But, by the time the noise blanker detects the noise, the noise is already in your receiver. Also, a noise blanker can introduce distortion and it degrades selectivity. The QRM Eliminator cancels the noise before it ever gets to your radio, thus your noise blanker isn't needed. 73, de N4HNH

@@n4hnhradio couldn't agree more your video and explanation is one of the better tutorials on here. Your electrical supply in the USA is slightly different to UK we don't have transformers on poles we have sub stations and its fed underground .Lamp post ie street lighting can cause issues we are surrounded by all kinds of noise just need different tools to combat it. Like you I tutor/ mentor people and do what I can I'm also a ARRL member and the contrast of the magazines to the UK ones Just keeps ideas flowing lucky me in my XYL free zone I can have all my toys out without any complaints.

It would be nice to have underground power. Our problem is loose hardware, dirty insulators, and blown lightning arrestors. Transformers don't usually cause the noise but they rarely fail. The engineer who deals with RFI told me that in 30 years of being a lineman and now the RFI engineer, he has only known of a couple of transformers to ever just fail on their own. Our problem is the arcing from one piece of hardware to the other, primarily caused by low humidity (dry air). 73, Doug

That type of noise is too much for just about any type of noise eliminator. 73, de N4HNH

I only own the MFJ-1026 from your list. But they all operate from the same concept. There is nothing magical. The performance of my MFJ-1026 is no better or worse than the QRM Eliminator, except when it comes to reliability. I repaired my MFJ-1026 one too many times and I gave up on it. It costs four times as much as the QRM Eliminator did. But, typical MFJ. The only thing I have from MFJ that hasn’t failed prematurely is my dummy load and my MFJ-989C tuner. 73, de N4HNH

I hope it helps with your noise. It can’t cancel wide spectrum noise, but does well with pulse type noise that happens at predictable intervals. 73, de N4HNH

Thankfully the power company finally made the necessary repairs, and the noise is gone. Now I can use the QRM Eliminator for its secondary role.

It is similar but not quite the same. Taking the signal from two separate receivers, connected to two separate antennas, with differing polarization and/or spaced sufficiently apart, and combining both signals in phase, helps minimize the effect of QSB. Another thing we can do is vary the DSP filter width of one receiver versus the other and create an effect similar to surround-sound. Devices like the QRM Eliminator allow us to take the signal/noise from one antenna (the auxiliary/noise antenna) and invert the phase. We then combine the inverted signal with the non-inverted signal from the main antenna. The narrow noise pulses will be heavily attenuated while the wider SSB signal is passed along. There will be a slight bit of attenuation of the SSB signal but not nearly as much attenuation as happened to the noise. So you get a much improved S/N ratio. I think the next big thing for amateur radio is to add the phase inversion option for transceivers with two separate receivers. 73, de N4HNH

There is a cable on eBay that plugs into the Linear port to pick up the TX signal for an amplifier. It has an RCA plug on the other end. I don’t have one to test but it might work. I use the Heil FS-2 footswitch. It definitely works. 73, de N4HNH

@@n4hnhradio Doug, you have just jumped right in solving problems to questions, and that clearly deserves reward. I've signed up for your top tier Patreon.

Thank you! I just want to help everyone I can to enjoy their radio more. 73, de N4HNH

I don’t know for sure, Andy! It works best against power line noise. Those garden lamps have proven to be a nuisance for many hams. I don’t have any near me or I would test it for you. It might be worth a $50 experiment though. If it cannot eliminate the noise, you could use it to electrically rotate your receive direction. If you have two dipoles, oriented perpendicular, their lobes and nulls are opposite. Set the signal level for the main antenna and the auxiliary antenna the same and use the Phase control to electrically move the lobes and nulls. 73, de N4HNH

It shouldn’t matter what antenna you are using to receive the noise, as long as it can receive the same noise as the main antenna. I was using my OCF dipole when I made the video. The important thing to do is use the gain knobs to match the amount of signal/noise coming in on both antennas and then rotate the phase knob to null out the noise. With this unit, try setting the phase knob at 12:00 before you adjust the gain knobs. Then tweak the phase knob to cancel the noise. Note that these devices work best against pulse noise, like from a power pole. Nothing can cancel broad noise from digital sources.

If you aren't trying to cancel noise, you can use it to null out signals. The trick is to use two antennas oriented such that one has lobes and nulls where the other does not. This allows you to use the cancellation technique to electrically rotate a receive array. 73, de N4HNH

You could connect a beverage antenna, but it would defeat the purpose of having a QRM Eliminator. It’s important that the Auxiliary antenna receives the same noise pulses as the main antenna, so the cancellation circuit has something to work with. If you are wanting to use the QRM Eliminator to create a steerable RX array, it’s best to use two of the same type antenna, installed perpendicular to one another.

Hi Nigel! The signal levels decrease on the S-meter because you are canceling noise that contributes to the S-meter readings. There is also a certain degree of attenuation through the device. The idea of this device is to improve the signal-to-noise ratio, not the S-meter reading. I can’t say for certain that it will deal with phone line noise. It works best against pulse type noise. But it’s always worth a try. Noise is becoming more and more a problem these days, with all the modern electronics on the market. 73, Doug

@@n4hnhradio thank you for the reply , it definitely looks like a good tool for the radio tool box , thanks again

You’re very welcome, Nigel. It has helped me out. I still haven’t been able to get the power company to come fix the source of the noise. They are backlogged with few workers at the moment. Electric power takes precedence over RFI. 73, Doug

Place it between the radio and the antenna tuner, or between the radio and the linear amplifier, if you use a linear amplifier. The auxiliary (noise receive antenna) will usually connect directly to the QRM Eliminator. I use an OCF dipole for my auxiliary antenna because it receives well on most bands.

I’ve never tried to use it on 6m.

There might not be enough memory left in the FTdx101D/MP to accommodate the phasing routine in DSP. Furthermore, the DSP chip from Texas Instruments would need to provide for such functionality. These phasers aren’t using DSP to accomplish what they do. There are discrete components involved (i.e. Op-amps, transistors, capacitors, etc.). I’m fairly certain that adding phase cancellation would need to be designed into a new transceiver. 73, de N4HNH

@@n4hnhradio Those phasers aren't part of a RX chain built on software either. Thinking about this more, I don't think it's possible in a hybrid SDR like the 101d. The 7300 or any other dual RX radio that's strictly SDR, maybe it's possible. Memory for this would be another issue that might stop that idea though. It's a good idea. If they could showcase that right I think it would help sell radios.

The FTdx101D or MP could function with a phaser circuit. It has two traditional superheterodyne receivers ahead of the SDR stage. The phaser circuit would need to exist inside the front end of the receiver, prior to the first mixer. It could be inserted before the bandpass filter and the preselector, which would more closely match how it functions externally, before entering the receiver. But it might even be better to place it just ahead of the first mixer, allowing the bandpass filter and preselector to limit the amount of noise first. This could assist the phaser circuit, similar to how the DSP can do a better job if we reduce the noise in the front end of the receiver first. 73, de N4HNH

@@n4hnhradio I've had an MFJ one for a looong time. It's really a wonder this isn't in radios already. Not like it's new, and it works.

My MFJ worked well until I turned on my amplifier to 500W or more. RF in the shack, from common mode current reflection with an OCF dipole would blow the bulb fuse. But three times it also fried a transistor. So I abandoned the 1026. So far the QRM Eliminator has handled high power just fine.

I use it when the power pole acts up. I don’t keep it hooked up when I don’t need it. My radio puts out 200W. I want to minimize the risk of transmitting through it with more than 100W.

You do need to connect a PTT line to the QRM Eliminator. I use a Heil FS-2 footswitch to key my radio. It has a RCA cable/plug that can be used to key a linear amplifier. Since I have the 10-pin mini-DIN cable from Elecraft that controls the Elecraft amplifier, the RCA plug is available for the QRM Eliminator. There are cables available that connect to the 10-pin mini-DIN linear port on the back of the FTdx10 to provide only the PTT signal. I found one on eBay. It came from England. It can key an amplifier, in case I need to use my AL-80B backup amplifier. But it could be used to provide PTT for the QRM Eliminator, if you aren’t needing it for an amplifier. You need to connect the QRM Eliminator between the radio and the tuner, so the main antenna going into the QRM Eliminator has an optimized signal to work with. You will need a second antenna connected to the auxiliary antenna connection on the back of the QRM Eliminator. This antenna needs to be able to receive the same noise as the main antenna. 73, Doug

Okay so if I get a Heil FS2 switch and I already have the pr 781 microphone that I'm using now on my ftdx 10 that is what we're perfectly work will one plug plugged into the connection on the Highland Mike and the ICA goes to the back of The qrm Eliminator? And that's all I need right?

Yes, with a Heil cable you get an XLR for the mic and and an adapter for the 1/4” from the FS-2 PTT line. Then plug the RCA cable to the back of the QRM Eliminator.

Thank you so much I will order fs2 switch from Heil then

Please let me know how it works out.

Even phase cancellation type devices can’t minimize certain types of noise. They are most effective against pulse type noise.

Pin 6 of the 8-pin modular plug is PTT and pin 7 is GND. 73, de N4HNH

@@n4hnhradio okay thank you very much for the info. Waiting for the Eliminator to arrive. The noise has been driving me insane.

For a QRM Eliminator, you connect to the Linear port on the back, not the modular plug on the front. You can order a cable on ebay that pligs into the Linear port and has a RCA plug for PTT. This is the one I ordered: www.ebay.com/itm/254970401621?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7qaf0C6WSW-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=_vRUbW8STJ6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I use an amplifier and didn’t want to tie up my Linear port. So I chose to use a Heil FS-2 footswitch to key the radio and I use its RCA plug for the QRM Eliminator. 73, Doug

@@n4hnhradio okay that's for the link. Appreciate it very much

I don’t know, Roy. It didn’t come with any instructions. It’s made in China. I only read online that the maximum power allowed is 100W. It didn’t say PEP, AM, CW, etc. If you watched my unboxing video, you saw that I had to reinstall the knobs. In a subsequent video I showed that I also had to tighten the power jack. I wish there was a better supplier. I have the MFJ-1026 but it isn’t even as good as this one, and it costs over $200. I will admit that the inside of the QRM Eliminator looks solid. The issues I had were just sloppy finishing touches related to knob orientation and forgetting to tighten a nut. I never run more than 100W SSB through mine. My amplifier outputs full power with less than 40W of drive from the transmitter, so that helps me stay well under the 100W limit. In fact, I usually drive my amp with 14 to 18W. The QRM Eliminator does its job, so, for $50 to $60 shipped, I can tolerate reorienting the knobs and tightening a nut. 73, de N4HNH

Wow it's even better than the $200 are actually now $250 I think mfj I think I'll buy one of these cheap qrm eliminators a for only $50 or so it's certainly worth the try and it looks like in your videos it looks beautiful I've got a fdtx 10 so I guess it plugs into the back where the transmitter ground connection is on the back of the radio so when I transmitted it won't pick up aref from the receive antenna I suppose

FTdx10 doesn’t have a dry contact for a PTT out. But, there are cables available for FTdx10 that connect to the Linear port and they have a RCA plug on the other end. These cables are normally used to provide the PTT signal for a linear amplifier. I found one on eBay. I don’t use it though. I use the cable from Elecraft, that provides PTT and band change data for my amplifier. I trigger the QRM Eliminator with the dry PTT contact from my Heil FS-2 footswitch that I also use to key my FTdx10. The FS-2 is designed to key the radio and amplifier with proper timing to ensure that that there is no damage to either. 73, de N4HNH

That’s misinformation. It can electrically rotate the receive pattern, similar to rotating a beam. That is a secondary purpose. It can do that when there is no noise to cancel. It’s just changing the phase angle between signals from the two antennas. It can be used to boost or cut (cancel). Remember too that the goal is S/N ratio, not high S-meter deflection.

@n4hnhradio well I ordered one lol. I am starting down the powerline noise worm hole. I get it on 10 and 12 meters. Your videos are a huge help!!!

My power line noise is also worst on 10 and 12, but extends to 17, 20, 30, 40, and 80. It’s just worst on 10 and 12. Be sure to connect a PTT to the QRM Eliminator. I show the connection in one of the videos in the QRM Eliminator playlist. The PTT signals the QRM Eliminator to protect itself when you transmit.

You will need to build/buy a cable that connects to the Send/ALC connection on the side of the IC-705. It is a 3.5mm male stereo connector. The middle (ring) connection of the 3.5mm won’t be used. The other end of the cable needs to be a RCA male. Wire from the pin of the RCA male to the tip of the 3.5mm plug on the radio end of the cable. The “ground” connection of the RCA male should be wired to the sleeve of the 3.5mm plug. The 3.5mm male plugs into the IC-705 Send/ALC port. The RCA male connector plugs into the PTT connection on the back of the QRM Eliminator. Note that this same cable could be used to key a linear amplifier, when not being used with the QRM Eliminator. Note also that certain linear amplifiers require a 15-20ms delay of the PTT signal. This can be set in the menu of the IC-705. Some people prefer the added insurance of an amplifier interface, such as the MFJ ARB-704. But for just connecting a QRM Eliminator, you won’t need to set a delay and you shouldn’t need the ARB-704.

Connect it between the radio and the tuner. The auxiliary antenna should connect directly to the QRM Eliminator. Be sure to connect the PTT so the QRM Eliminator grounds out during TX. 73, de N4HNH

@@n4hnhradio would that be, radio - QRM eliminator - Tuner? is that correct? there is a ptt at the back of the QRM, there is a red and black wire where do i connect that. I really appreciate this. de DV7MOV thank you!

Yes from the radio to the QRM Eliminator to the tuner to the TX antenna. Connect the PTT on the back of the QRM Eliminator to the TX ground output of your transceiver, or use a footswitch. This prevents damage to the QRM Eliminator while you are transmitting. 73, de N4HNH

@@n4hnhradio thanks let me try. thank you!

You’re very welcome! 73, de N4HNH

Whatever works, right?

Not necessarily. The beverage has lower gain and a high takeoff angle. I still want to pull out ghost stations.

@n4hnhradio OK then I guess I'll get one of these to use with my beverage then. I'll be able to hear about anything

I assume that you mean to use a QRM Eliminator with another antenna, not with the beverage. You shouldn’t need it with the beverage, unless the beverage is close enough to a power pole that it is receiving PLN. That would be unusual. BTW, I don’t recommend the Chinese model in this video. They are not consistently constructed. They often require some level of repair, right out of the box. Mine had two things wrong. I recommend the Timewave ANC-4.

@@n4hnhradio correct. Just wanted something to expirement with.

Roger, I’m not sure about running 200W with the QRM Eliminator off. There were no instructions with this thing. I just read online that it is limited to 100W. My MFJ-1026 is also limited to 100W. I assume that rating applies to when it is turned on. If I blow mine up, I will let you know. 73, de N4HNH

I seem to remember hearing that some were labeled incorrectly. It’s a common board that people can buy, install into an enclosure of their choice, and add the knobs. Apparently some have labeled the knobs incorrectly and/or wired the knobs incorrectly. Exercise caution regarding who you buy from. Anyway, the device works on the principle of matching the gain of the main and the auxiliary antennas and then using the phase knob to put the noise pulses received by one antenna 180 degrees out of phase with the noise pulses received by the other antenna. I hope this helps. 73, de N4HNH

@@n4hnhradio Hi. Thanks for the clarifications. I didn't know about the exchanges.

You’re welcome! If you are concerned about the quality of the Chinese versions on eBay, DX Engineering has one. I haven’t tried theirs myself, but I’ve heard good reports about it. It uses the same principle. It is the WiMo QRM Eliminator 26000. 73, de N4HNH

@@n4hnhradio Sinceramente, eu não me preocupo muito com produtos da China. Lá, no Brasil ou nos EUA, tem coisas boas e ruins. O meu aparelho é igual ao seu. Grato uma vez mais!

Fantástico! Então você já tem um como o meu. Deve ter dois ganhos e um controle de fase, não importa como é rotulado. 73, de N4HNH

The s/n ratio seems greatly improved.

In a way yes. But you gain signal-to-noise ratio. I don't care if the S-meter reads zero, as long as I can hear the signal better. On 7 Megahertz and lower you don't need extra sensitivity. In fact, that's why you see me using IPO so often. Intercept Point Optimization attenuates while also improving the cross-modulation characteristic of the receiver. The QRM eliminator removes noise before it ever enters your receiver. On the lower bands, I use the QRM Eliminator and IPO. Remember to always use IPO before enabling any amount of attenuation in the radio, since IPO improves selectivity. 73, de N4HNH

@@n4hnhradio great explanation

There is no illusion of noise cancellation. It reverses the phase of the signal from the noise antenna by 180 degrees and reinserts it into the signal path to the radio, along with the signal from the main antenna, thus cancelling the noise pulses. The noise drops at a faster rate than the signal. That is why the signal-to-noise ratio improves. I try to get my S-meter down to near zero before I enable any DSP. It makes the DSP do a better job. This device stops the noise before it is able to enter the receiver. That way the receiver doesn’t have to be bothered by it. The noise blanker is no longer necessary. Most DSP noise blankers can’t even completely stop the noise, and they can introduce distortion into the audio. Attenuation is good for lower frequencies and sometimes good for 14MHz and up. There is no need to have a noise floor above S1; even S0.5. 73, de N4HNH

@@n4hnhradio Yes but it also attenuates the signal a lot, which makes things quieter. Look at the desired signal and it attenuates it quite a bit. I fully understand how it works. I have the Timewave ANC-4. I am just saying that it's a lossy circuit.

All noise reduction devices attenuate. It is called insertion loss. Your coax has insertion loss. But, in the case of the noise canceling devices, you trade signal strength for S/N ratio. But, if you don’t like it, that is fine too. This device is for those who cannot enjoy their radio due to S9 or higher noise levels. It matters not to them if the station they can suddenly hear over the noise is reading S5. At S9 they couldn’t hear them. I have no endorsement from any company so I don’t care if anyone watches the video and chooses not to purchase one. I hate to need one but sometimes I have no choice. If you already have the ANC-4 you don’t need to care.

@@n4hnhradio Yup. They attenuate a lot.

So does IPO and ATT. Attenuation can be good.

I haven’t seen one of those since my FT-920. It is big enough that one could fit. But it works be a cinch to program this into the DSP of a dual-receiver rig.

Indeed you must. Do not exceed 100W.

So it has to hook up to the back of the transceiver where it says transmitted ground correct? Also does it handle 100 W pep or is it 100 W continuous?

The JSP/Timewave ANC-4 is rated for 250w, though I don't recall the duty cycle of the rating.

Wall warts can definitely be noisy. Fortunately, not all are noisy. My rule is not to bring anything electronic into my home that isn’t absolutely necessary. But I can’t stop my neighbors from doing so.

Did you hook up the PTT? You need to send it a PTT, so it doesn’t route your TX RF power through its receiver circuits. You can damage the device if you don’t provide a PTT input. It also affects the SWR.

You need to watch the rest of the videos in my QRM Eliminator playlist.

Provided a ptt it does not like a icom 706?.

If you have a high SWR, the PTT is probably not functioning. That will cause a high SWR. You need the RCA cable from the 706 to the PTT jack. Then make sure you enable PTT ground from the 706.

Have got a rca plug connected up it was ok until I transmitted.@@n4hnhradio