What tyre set up do you use for training or racing? Let us know!

That bike😍 ...and then those sandals 😱

Some good straight up questions Mark. I run tubeless on all my bikes and do the maintenance myselve. Ben is over trivializing. Dried up sealent doesn't wipe right out, & a road side repair with a tube is a right mess. Seating a tire with a regular pump is not easy either, unless you have all the tolerances right. Make sure to practise a lot before to commit for an A race on it. This is not for everyone.

I run tubeless on my Gravel bike, and on my TT bike for competition. I am not too happy with tubeless in terms of maintenance, and I have had many flats with tubeless, too.

Had a big cut in my rear tubeless tyre on my first half IM. Too big for a plug, so had to install a tube. What a MESS with all that icky, sticky goo inside.

Tubeless for mtb and gravel (running 43s) make total sense. Where I ride the conditions dont warrant the hassles of road tubeless. I run Conti gp 4000s and can change a tube in 3-5 minutes, average a flat every 2-3,000 miles. Nobody I ride with runs tubeless road and that includes ironmen and a guy who competed at Nationals in the time trial. It's a solution in search of a problem (for most riders).

I mostly agree with everything discussed here EXCEPT: I would like to bring light on some false info in this video. 1.) I got a puncture in my sidewall and tried stuffing a bacon strip in it. No go. Soon as I starting re-filling the tire up with air, it forced the strip out of the puncture. Tried 2 bacon strips, same deal. Ride over. 2.) If you ever completely remove a used tire that was filled with sealant and gummed up on the beads and try to re-seat it onto a tire as-is, good luck. Won't happen. Not even with an industrial 160psi compressor. You will have to spend a few hours cleaning off all of the gummed up sealant from the beads, and even after you do that, the tire may or may not ever seal back onto the wheel even with a compressor. This is from my personal experience. Fair warning!

He forgot to mention, that you need a separate valve to put in before you „ready to go“...

Thank you for this. Your content is very educational. This video answered my question about putting a tube into a tubeless tire if you got a bad flat.

Good video , I have had my share of problems with tubeless tires .

I’m just starting to listen, but thanks for the video! This subject important for me, when I have to live with a purchase decision for a while.

Make sure the lock-ring around the value doesn't get glued on or you could end up on the roadside unable to take out the value when you need to fit a tube!

Ah, so Zipp offer an unbiased opinion on their own product. Good one.

Can hardly remember the last time I had a puncture on my road bike, must be 6+ years ago. Not worth it for me and if want a smoother faster ride I'll try latex tubes. Had MTB tubeless and it does need maintenance and can get into a messy situation!

Except the truth is that it’s almost impossible to inflate a tubeless tyre on a Zipp 808 NSW wheel. It has caused me a major headache twice. I simply could not seat the tyre (corsa speed 25C) on my 808 NSW and i tried everything including an air tank. Even with a compressor, 2 separate bike shops struggled. I had no such problems with Bontrager Aeolus Pro or Campag Zonda wheels. There is fundamentally something not quite right with the Zipp tubeless design. The wheel has been fairly good apart from that, but based on my experience (being unable to fit tyres) i would not recommend Zipp tubeless wheels.

Yes tubeless provides less resistance than a butyl tubed tire & yes, more comfort plus less punctures but the downsides are a many also. *When you park bike for many days etc you need to make sure the valve is in position to drain out sealant otherwise gums up valve. *Usually installation of tubeless tires on tubeless rims is very difficult because of the design & tight tolerances, sometimes nearly impossible on roadside. *In general is a messy situation to add, keep toped up & when it self seals, is also very messy when tire is removed completely. *Is very hard, if not impossible to inflate tire from scratch often with a hand or foot pump. *Still need to carry a tube, repair equipment & air filling other than hand pump. *Over time the sealant dries up or gets absorbed into tire so you need to check the level after a few months. *If you leave bike for more than a month or so you need to spin wheels to keep sealant from gumming up into a mass. Anyway probably there are more cons but that does not mean you should not use them, they could be essential in some situations where performance & a puncture is paramount, just good to keep in mind both the positive & negative aspects for them. Maybe one day they will be able to supply tubeless tires that dont require the messy sealant, then they will seriously take off with sales.

Did tubeless, technology isn’t there for road yet. Can’t pop in a tube because you have to remove the valve stem/core, and you can’t use Co2 because it’ll freeze the sealant inside and render it useless. Also, setting them up is a nightmare, especially if they’re brand new. Lastly, if you don’t thoroughly clean all the old sealant out, especially on the bead, the tire will never set. Too many variables.

On the first question he said you can't make non tubeless wheels and tyres tubeless. He's taking about road bikes which require high pressures. However on mountain bikes you can convert normal rims to tubeless because the pressures are much lower. I've got several old 26ers set up this way and have been running them with no problems for a couple of years. Stans conversion kit or similar is what you need.

I've been running tubeless on my MTB for 2 years now. I've not had a single flat. Nothing. Not one. I was hesitant moving to tubeless at first for concern of being stuck out on some single track in the middle of nowhere with a major tire failure. I don't even think about it now. I carry a spare tube just in case, but I have never had to use it. I have a new road bike on the way that has a tubeless setup. Can't wait.

As someone who's in to all types of cycling from motorcycles, electric powered cycles and leg powered ones, on the leg powered side Track, Off Road, Mountain bike, Cyclo-cross, Adventure, Gravel, etc and Road Cycling , Long Tours, Short Stage Races, One Day's, Crits and TimeTrials etc, etc, it's always amazed me how slowly new technology can sometimes be to jump from one style to another or to be accepted and used. Look at disk breaks and this, tubeless. Both have been accepted and used by MtB for ages especially disc's and I find it hard to understand what stops it from happening and why something that's obviously better is not being used. Even when the companies that make the bikes started to push their on the road it was slow to be taken up and still hasn't been by a big proportion or Roadies. Even the many who ride both can seem to have some sort of block that stops them from using the new thing on 1 of thier bikes when they've happily used it for ages on their other and know its benefits. Look at tubeless, I know a couple of riders who use it and swear by it on their MtB but still use tubes on their road, same with discs. They've used disc on their MtB for years and years and wouldn't even ride a none disc MtB now but don't want them on their road or didn't they've now mostly accepted they're use on all bikes but a couple still haven't swapped. Why won't riders and companies just take on any new tech that has obvious benefits and incorporate them in to all types and styles of bikes and riding. I know weight was a concern with early disc especially with that silly UCI weight limit rule but tubeless? Clutches on rear mechs, 1X drive trains, even dropper posts for some off road "gravel" adventure riders. In my opinion the new Electronic system by SRAM is an amazing step forward and it or something similar will end up on every type of bike in some form or another. Having 1 system that will control everything on your bike so you can program your shifters to control anything and everything on your bike or even that you put on your bike or yourself from gears to lights and helmets to gloves etc will happen and be the normal eventually once the price comes down etc. Especially as basically everything both on the bike and off it, helmets, your bike computer, maybe one day shoes, gloves, your indoor trainer, whatever will have something electronic on it you can control. Take the new helmet being designed that has the ability to change from aero to vented when required, the vents opening and closing as and when appropriate. As battery tech improves, getting lighter and longer lasting more things will go that way, gloves that heat up or cool you down, shoes that will do the same or appropriate for Triathlon especially that you can do up or undo with the flick of a switch on you bars. I just hope it doesn't happen on one side but not on the other for ages and for no apparent reason. The only reason I can even think of is that MtB riders and its culture is far more open to new things and the adoption of new tech where as Roadies are more traditional and unwilling to do anything that takes away from that nostalgic feel.

at the end clinher saves the day

Where I ride there is usually a decent amount of debris and little pokey plant material. I was running inner tubes and within a span of a month, I replaced the inner tube around 5 or 6 times with one week needing three inner tubes. That’s nearly 40 dollars in one week and at that point I said screw it, I have tubeless ready rovals so I’m just gonna go tubeless and see how that goes. Same route, multiple rides per week, multiple small punctures, $0. Tubeless has been great for me and I still have inner tubes should I need to put one in but it’s been months now and there has been no need. I’m loving it.

great video thank you so much

I had tubeless on my commuter bike, HATED them, went back to tubes. Planning on going tubeless on my mountain bike, and on the fence about tubeless for my race bike.

This Newby has been waiting for a review of tubeless tires. Thanks!

saw a guide flat on IMLP and it was a total mess, but what makes me nervous is trying to inflate it with a CO2 cartridge when yo might need a blaster pump which there is no way you will have at a race.

I use a Milkit system. This makes it easy to check fluid without removing one side of the tire.

I have deep section wheels and need valve extenders - I always find the 'milk' gets clogged in the valve extenders. How can I overcome this problem?

Converted my Flo 60/90 to tubeless 18 months ago. Not a single flat. Worth noting you do have to also put in a stem. Think they skipped that part.

Put sealant in your tubes and you will avoid pinch flats and minor punctures and you won't have a mess if you need to replace the tube.

One thing I don’t understand is why would friction between the inner tube and the tire increase rolling resistance. Not like it influences the bike’s interaction with the road. Can someone please explain?

Its an old video, but here goes. I have that bike in the rimbreak version. It has the 404nsw. Are they also tubeless ready ? In the video I see you demoing the rimbreak version.

Clinchers!!! Flat tire, remove wheel, take out tube, replace, pump up, put on wheel, ready to go!!!

Tubeless is great for puncture resistance. The only downsides are yes it is a bit messy when you need to put a tube in it roadside and sealant can spray on your frame (requiring additional elbowgrease to clean) and on riders in your wheel. For me the benefits outweigh the downside. Especially in spring and autumn with all the dirt on the road it does it job when I see all the cuts on my tire. On my old training clincher wheels I do have more punctures

a lot of advantages with tubeless for sure, but the main reason holding everyone back is that most riders have approx 4 or 5 bikes, imaging topping up or changing the stans fluid on each wheel every 3 months. that is a lot of time!

The tires are quite hard to remove for those wheelset any way to make it easier

You fill the sealent in the tire through the valve stem. Obviously you remove the valve core prior to that ;) But is there anything to watch out for before reinstalling the valve core? Like wiping of sealent on the inside of the valve stem (or rather the valve extension) for example?

That bike looks cozy comfy! hahahahahaha!

They should go through an example. Try to take off that tyre when/if you flat and add a tube. Good luck!! No way that happens easily during a race.

if you have tubeless and you think you will need to add a tube, get a bloody extra tire with you and just change that. Also, make sure you get some fluid to add in. I use tubeless on my climbing bike and I never had any issues. Plus the lower pressure is nice because it's more comfy. But as many suggested, make sure you get the tire/wheel combination that fits. I went with mavic and they work like a charm....not sure about tire ready + rim ready combination from different vendors.

For larger holes the sealant does not fix carry a Stans Dart plug which has two dart plugs which will firstly seal the bigger hole then react with the sealant to form a permenant bond with the tyre. I had to fix a tyre in November 19 and the plug stayed in place until I scrapped the tyre in march 20.

That has to be the biggest lavaliere microphone windscreen I have ever seen. It's as big as some stick mics!

0:54 the answer is "yes but it depends" and the expert said "no" - Where did you found this guy? Bike shop?

prefer your Canyons still! 🚴‍♀️

Have been riding tubeless for over a year. Not a fan. They do pinch flat when the sidewall gets cut by the rim itself. Larger cuts will not seal. You will need to boot and put in a tube on the road. Pain in the butt. Super messing. Time consuming even if you have the correct tools. Tubeless is good for dealing with small nails, thorns, glass, and wires. I am back to using tubes with sealant added to the tubes.

Great until you get a real puncture and the gunk covers your bike 🙈 I've gone back to clinchers way easier 👍

You don't ever need a compressor these days. A decent track pump or one of the systems that have bottles you can fill with high pressure air before releasing in one go will always do it these days, especially if you get valves that you can remove the core from. There's new ones out that make it stupidly easy to do everything from pump the tyre up, get it seated, put in the sealent after and even take old sealent out. Especially if you get a Schrader type valve and use a Stans or similar valve type then it'll be easy.

Tubeless only works fine for mtb or cross tires up to around 4-5 bar pressure, anything higher than that won't be sealed up by the fluid...i don't know of anyone in my huge cycling club who could make it work for heavier riders on road tires with 7 bar pressure...sealant will spray out and plugs just pop out... you can ride home with low pressure but it's no real solution like it is for mtb...running tubeless on my mtb for nearly 10 years now and never had any issues

I hate tubeless. After not riding my bike for less than a month tire lost pressure, I pumped it up, then boom loud pop all the remainin air escaped and I can't pump it up anymore. Tried to remove the tire, milk stuff escaped made a mess everywhere. Even more challenging to remove the tire remaining sealant tried to seal whatever opening it finds. I'm clincher for life now.

what about putting the sealant inside in the inner tube? will it help?

My only problem with tubeless is the sealant, most that are readily availably are latex. I know some people that are allergic to latex and I don’t want them to be affected by my tires.

I do not recommend taking the tubeless valve out once the sealant made it airtight. Use a compressor for sure. If the tyre ain't worn out don't take it off from the rim because the sealant sticks on the tyre and is difficult to remove. On the rim there is zero sealant which is great. I will never go back to clinchers.

Why do a lot of people run a tubeless on the front and then still a tube on the back?

you can seat a tube manually, I had to with my hunt wheels

Yeah I tried tubeless. But I stopped when I had a flat it wouldn't seal. But try putting a tube into a tubeless tire out on the road. It sucks. Old sealant on the rim making it slippery. Tubeless tires are generally a b*tch to get back on the rim too.

Speaking of expensive wheels, I would like to hear GTN speak about the nike ban in triathlon

Too much time, hassle & money converting to tubeless - just to use a tube if you get a ad puncture. I will defo be sticking to my inner tubes.

I’m glad to know so many commenters hate tubeless, I want to race against y’all. Vittoria corsa speed advantage me.

I heard a normal clincher rim can go tubeless. Now you're saying I need to buy a tubeless ready rim.

That Felt looks so awesome

Please show more Felt bikes on the channel 😎

Practise makes perfect for the worst-case scenario. Set up a tutorial with an expert and after a few times, it becomes easier.

Sick TT bike, basic AF sandals 🤣😂🤣😂

Refreshing to see someone riding in shorts, t-shirt and sandals.

Total nonsense....pump it up with a track pump...nonsense....put a patch on it ...yeh right....put an inner tube in ...after you have sealant ( glue) sprayed all over your expensive bike....you have a puncture with tubeless 100 km from home you are in for a bad day.Tubeless worst idea ever.hit a pothole at 60 km/h with tubeless as with any tyre type the tyre can flat.I,m in a cycling club, people who flat with tubeless are worse of than with the clincher crowd.

just seen too many tubeless set ups needing help on the side of the road. Its all good in a supported event I'm sure but in the real world with broken glass etc on British roads a gel wrapper and a new tube will go a long way!

What are the triatlon schoes he is wearing in the bike?

One more thing. Wider tyres are faster. REALLY. I have one bike with 25mm tyres and one with 28,mm tyres. The 25 mm tyres is seriously quicker than the 28 mm tyres,

Hi, do all tubeless setups require sealants?

I have more then 12000 km on those tyres. I still ride them without single isue

When Zipp is providing the tubeless equipment do you really think that this is an unbiased review? Of course they will say you can't use standard clinchers, they want you to buy another wheelset. Yet, I have set up countless standard clincher wheels with standard clincher tires and they have worked fine. Is tubeless ready better? maybe, probably. But to say you can not set up conventional rims and tires tubeless is a bold face lie.

what would happen if you pumped A. Helium B. Nitrogen C. Oxygen In your wheel, regardless tubeless or tubed?

7 1/2 minutes I’ll never get back. What a waste.

LOL ok I am fairly well educated- Someone please explain to me how "friction inside the tire" helps rolling resistance LOL (It helps it by changing the shape of the contact patch due to a change in air pressure run and the shape the tire contact patch takes when compressed by the riders weight e.g friction outside the tire) it has nothing to do with friction inside the tire between tube and tire. "Rolling resistance" has to do with the interaction between the tire and the road, so the interaction between a tube and the inside of the tire will have virtually no affect other than changing rotational mass, but it has been shown that sealant plus the slightly heaver tubeless ready tire actually come to a slightly heavier weight than tube setups on most equivalent level setups for road bikes (it can be less on a MTB). This person does not really understand "rolling resistance" for instance a bad wheel bearing will provide resistance but it is not "rolling resistance" it is rotational resistance again "rolling resistance" deals with the frictional resistance between the road and the tire, it is primarily decided by material interface [e.g. road surface and tire compound] and the size and shape of the contact patch. A large contact patch and sticky tire provide great traction but actually increase rolling resistance which is why anyone that has ever put wide sticky tires on a sports car has seen their MPG go down. The more uniformity of the pressure on the tire itself due to lack of a tube does help to dive a more uniform contact patch and this likely does dive a few watts of benefit in the area of rolling resistance (but it will be very small) it likely also has some to do with the tubeless craze meaning that some of the more advanced new tires are being released on tubeless tires.

i've had good success converting standard hook rims to tubeless with the proper rim tape and valve. i lose about 10 psi over the course of a week, but really you should be topping up your tire pressures every ride anyway. if you've got a wheel set on hand, i'd say it's worth a try.

my bad - you can still get pinch flats.

is tubeless system more expensive yes.... I have to refill the system every 4 months.

Marketing :(

Screw that clincher suck to many pinch flats as fast I went on tubular I'm luckyI didn't run in pinch flatsdoing35mph..I'll stick with little of labor and ride quality and confidence knowing there won't be many pinch flats.

I agree with the below statement, “Marketing!” Ben Waite is straight up lying when he says you can’t successfully convert a non-tubeless ready rim to being tubeless ready ... honestly how stupid do you think we are Ben?!? How easy and effective is it? I haven’t cycled in 20 years, I just bought a new gravel bike and while watching videos about gravel bikes I heard how amazing running tubeless was so I chose to convert my rims. Admittedly I am a complete amateur yet I bought proper rim tape along good MilKit valves, and clincher tires ... in under 30 minutes (most of the time spent struggling to get the new clincher tire on the rim) I was running tubeless w/sealant and all using a regular tire pump (maybe an hour to do both rims). I did watched a ton of tubeless conversion videos including all the nightmare scenarios but luckily it all went to plan! Been riding for weeks now without issues, at pressures 30+ PSI lower than the tire’s upper PSI rating and the ride is great. Yes, I do loose about 5 to 10 PSI after a ride or if I leave it racked for a few days, but this is true of tubed tires as well. So much for Ben laughing off converting non-tubeless ready rims, I have had that last laugh! ;-D Apparently GTN is not GCN, who make amazing, informative and garbage free videos, so I think I will go back to watching their videos!

Tubeless are the equivalent of the Emperor's new clothes on road bikes. They lack the suppleness of decent clinchers and become skittish in the wet conditions often found in the UK so cornering is not confidence inspiring. Most people will still carry a spare tube "to be safe". I rode them for a year and about 8000km in all conditions to try and give them a fair chance. The two times I needed them to work the sealant failed its job description. If you're not really sure put your money into decent clinchers and put talcum powder inside the tyre and on the tube to help reduce internal friction.

How could he ride that easily without front wheel?!

Sorry mate. 3rd video on the subject and only confirms our view that tubeless tires on ROAD bikes are a waste of effin time and money. All the work, mess, frustration and time wasted in comparison does not make up for the minimal, if any, performance improvement made on the bike. Call us back when the tech is improved. Greatly. Cheers.

Not cycling retail fetish, learn to ride by a fixie fixie riders seem.much happier and better riders quicker too

Over selling tubeless. You can cut the sidewalls via a rock compressing a tire sidwall against the rim. Also, putting in a tube is messy and a pain in the butt. Sealant gets everywhere. And when a tire is punctured, the sealant sprays all over your bike. You need to top off the sealant at least once a month. The sealant dries and forms dried areas inside a tire. I have gone back to tubes. Much better for training. You can put sealant inside your tubes. Has worked great for me. Will not seal a pinch flat however.

hmm, got 3000 tubeless kms, dozens of puncture flats and spinning sealant, and one double flat and near traffic death (a bad oriented drain in a curb). ditched them and went tubulars, goodbie 7 watts.. since, 50,000 kms tubulars 3-6 controlled flats... the problem with tubeless is they now go on bicycles as fast as any inner city trafffic limits, but are not regulated ISO and ANSI like tires. So you have different rims and application methods, use of lever force and other manufacturing deficiencies that, at a certain psi or temperature, does let go on the weakest sidewall spot. The list of tubuless riders waking up in hospitals, broken 15,000$ bike nowhere to be seen, has gone up. of course this does not happen with car tires, not since the Firestone fiasco that killed. Another issue with tubeless is that they are psi and temperature sensitive. you can pump it at 70 psi but at 35-50c asphalt can go up beyond safety. of course this simply does not happen with tubulars, they may go up 10% but have where to expand, safely. Outside the rim cavity, not tubeless, the increase the sideload on the rim, hook and bead. for these safety concerns, they should be banned until regulated. as for puncture- how many times i checked a warn out Veloflex or Conti tubular, finding half a dozen-dozen tread to casing punctures, but NONE that breached then inner tube (or i would have had a flat). with tubeless that is a flat each time, stop ride or slow down even if sealed, and, esp on rears, must remove and patch at home. that would be 12 lost rides?? 5% of trips per tubeless lifecycle? yes depends where one lives, some pristine EU cities no doubt conti TL last forever no punctures..and yes, slow 10-30 km riders tubeless is less an issue, not enough speed psi or temp and mileage to worry

Fillable tubeless should not be called "tubeless" in the first place.

Why even ride with tubes then?

I do not recommend riding in "sandals" 🙄

I switched on my Road Bike to Tubeless. I chose one of the most rugged tyres out there, the Conti GP5000TL in 25mm. After 80km I got a flat tyre, the sealant couldn't close this little cut. I tried it before with a Vittoria Corsa Speed, but this tyre has no puncture resistance at all, so it was not a big surprise I got a flat after 20km. The sealant could close the hole but this tyre didn't hold more than 6bar anymore. The takeaway is this system is not as good as people promise. I give it a 3rd shot now, if I have a flat again I'll opt for a good Clincher with turbolito tubes inside...

if ur a serious competitor then you don't run tubeless but clinchers with liners and take a few second penalty for assuring no flats

Canyon was better than Felt mate

A solution to a problem that doesn't exist for road cycling. MTB, Cyclocross, yes, road, no. 1. Road flats occur once every 3 to 6 months, not a big deal to change a tube 2. You carry tubes anyway... 3. Sealant needs to be refreshed every 3 to 6 months.. see point 1 4. Sealant on brake rotors or brake track = no brakes 5. If you get a tubeless flat, insert a tube and leave it in there, next time you flat, your tube will have glued itself to the inside of your tyre, throw your tyre and tube in the bin and call os shame.

They seem way too much hassle for the marginal gains.

It amazes me that here we are a manufacturer mentioning a repair which is plug repair. This in transit UK is not prohibited by British standards and any road going vehicle which a road bike is, should not be done. It comes with great risk to you as the rider and other road users... stick with tubes!!!

Wider tires are not faster. They are trying to sell us on this crap because they want tubeless to work on road bikes just as it does on mountain bikes. Lower pressures have a better chance of holding in the sealant in the case of a puncture. I have never gotten the sealant to work on any punctures on my road bike and have always ended in putting a tube in. So what is the point of dropping the use of inner tubes?

been on too many rides where someone has a problem with a tubeless and has to taxi home, but first 25 minutes are spent trying to fix it....bag of shite

Strange how cycling channels are pushing tubeless tires, same goes for disc brakes and electronic shifting. Are we allowed to choose what we want?

Paid?

Ive used tubeless on MTBs, ‘cross and ‘all terrain’ bikes since it was a home made do it yourself thing. Never, EVER more the 50-60 psi. Ghetto tubeless! I still use it! I havent had a flat in 17 years! Dont use anything except tubeless road specific components on high pressure set ups over 70psi. We have had best success with Shimano and Mavic road tubeless rims. The main advantages of running tubeless are ability to run lower pressure, more traction, more comfort and less flats. Doing it for lower weight decreases reliability!! Try not to swallow the marketing koolaide! Now you use skinny tires pumped up rock hard and you negate most of those advantages. Road tubeless is a crap shoot at best, with less than great odds and the potential to create a huge, frustrating mess! As pro mechanics, we have at best, a 50% success rate setting up road tubeless. We try to discourage our customers from using road tubeless. Its way more hassle than its worth, ESPECIALLY when upgrading wheels. Like he says, it all comes down to rim and tire fit. Loose fit is horrible, good set ups are VERY tight and frequently break tire levers. No fun to deal with out on the road! Bring a phone for that call of shame!! Youre better off using professional quality tubulars ($$$$) for ultimate performance . I used them back in the ‘80s for training and racing. I used Clement Del Mondos, the fattest silk tires of the day. Nothing will give you a better ride! I never got flats until the tire was worn out. Cheap ‘affordable’ tubulars are a horrible waste of money!! Thats where sew ups get their bad reputation. Road tubeless is getting better, but its just not there yet. Try not to be the bike industry’s guinea pigs! They WILL treat you as one, believe me! Try bigger volume tubeless tires at lower pressures. It really works. 28c is the bare minimum for road riding IMHO. I prefer 32c or larger. Due to more comfort, being fresher late in a ride, theres more efficiency using lower pressures. You’re safer, handling is better as is braking. There’s Less stress to hold your line. You get even less flats if you ride smoothly. Long distance riders, such as randonneurs have known this stuff for decades. The FACTS behind more efficiency with lower pressures are NOT intuitive, but they’re common sense .They may be even hard to believe. You need to do some research to understand it. Check out tire reports and testing on Rene Herse bicycles or Compass tires website.