Hi Larry, I have the circuit diagrams all ready to go for infra-red uncoupling! I am using a tiny pager motor with the eccentric weight to pull the knuckle open!!! The prototype worked so well that when I am healthy again, I will be putting them on some of my freight cars. I was a Marine at Camp LeJeune when the water was poisoned. You've probably heard about it??? There are thousands of us that are in a class action lawsuit against the Dept. Of The Navy

Hi Larry, Thanks again for yozr very informative video, too. Me I am using Kadee and Kadee kompatible Couplers onto my US Rosters and Car Fleet and of course onto my prussian prototype epoche I or era 1 continental based european layout onto my Rosters and car fleet, too. In 1899 to 1909 the imperial prussian state railway tested the Krupp Knuckle Coupler, which had been a much more solid version of the in the USA used Janney Coupler, but what had been kompatible to the Chain & Hook european style Coupler with sside buffers, the middle center Krupp Coupler could be switched into side and arrested by bolt to give free an hook & Coupling Chain mounted onto its side. It was a tenn years long test about of tryinc to change the coupling system in central europe into a more safer coupling system to tge railroad operations. A lot of imperial state railroads obeyed this test and got much safer operations but the biggest german imperial state railway decided not to use this Krupp Coupler after the ten years long general test, because of the very high predicted costs to invest more than 10 Million Goldmarks to change the coupling system. Some decades later it gave a lot of tries again to use another middle buffer coupling systems based upon the Janney Coupler or Krupp Coupler but what were compatible to the Hook & Chain Coupler or even not but at least the bigger european state railroads did not decided to use the more safer Couplers by same reasons like before, because of the very expensive changing costs to the international roster and car fleets. With that background infos about knuckle couplers I can easily use Kadee Couplers to my european continental model railroad...Kadee does producing their Knuckle Couplers with NEM 362 (NEM = Norm of European Model Railway Manufacturers) shafts in four different lengths, so that the side buffers will not give trouble inside curves. The NEM 362 Kadee Couplers disallow to use the KKK Mechanics installed to the most european cars and locos. You need to fix the KKK Mechanism first before using Kadee NEM 362 Couplers, because they Kadee Couplers have an hinge behind the knuckle head what making them not rigid enough that the KKK Mechanism would work like expected, what can make derailments if the mechanism ist not blocked and fixed up. KKK = Short Coupling Backdrop Mechanics If you will not fixing the KKK onto your Continental European NEM 362 Coupler Shafts than use Kadee Compatible Couplers of other brands without rigid behind the knuckle Coupler Head.

Yes, Under roadbed magnet is a BIG problem because of unintended uncoupling. Also the problem increases with cars with Ferrous metal weights and cars with magnetic axels. It is a big big problem. Replacing the iron weights with Non magnetic weights and replacing steel axels with non magnetic axels helps but does not eliminate the problem.

I recently bought some 1/8" X 1/8" X 1/2" neodymium magnets from Apex Magnets. These are just a perfect size to fit between the ties of HO flex track. After verifying their polarity with a compass, I glued three of them in sequence centered between the ties, using CA and holding them in place with my fingertip until the glue dried. While the neodymium magnets sit a bit proud of the ties, it's less than the KADEE #321 and is insufficient to interfere with operations. So far, these magnets have worked well in practice.

Another informative video. Please keep coming.

very informative for a novice like me , much appreciated

Thank you for your time and effort that was a good video thank you very much you're doing a good job it's very informing thank you sir

Those magnates are the way to go. I am going to look into them for my next layout.

I've purchased a few British and European locomotives over the years and it's so easy to replace the couplers because NEM pockets seem to be a universal standard on their side of the pond.

Have you looked at the Rapido uncoupler system? They are really good for multi deck layouts.

Great video. Thank-you.

Nice video! Good info!

Just a note of further info - The Kadee between the rails uncoupling magnets come in 3 types. #321 delayed action as you described, #312 which do not have the delayed uncoupling capability and the #322 delayed action for code 83 (US) rail.

What another great Video Larry, Kadee Couplers look so good and are so versatile there’s nothing to compare. Looking forward to the rest of your Kadee Videos, will you also be looking at the differences between the different Styles, that is, which are the most prototypical Types. I’m certainly going to build the North American Version of your switching Layout for my Shelton & Western Shortline HO Layout. Thanks once again. Keep safe.

I’ve got a few of the kedee under track magnets I’m going to be install on a new layout. Using foam and woodland scenics foam roadbed, which should make “sticking them” where I need ‘um be simple...I hope. On another subject, while going over some previous post, I see what I’ve assume is a SR fast clock (since it’s not running) in the background. You were asking about future ideas/subjects to cover. How about how to use, set up a fast clock in operations? I’ve been active and armchair hobbiest for over 50 years and not ever understood how it works or how to use/apply a fast clock to an operating session. Thanks. Don

Hi Larry - The "under the track magnets" still present the same difficulties you demonstrated re: Inadvertent uncoupling? Thankyou.

Sorry. Please keep them coming.

Thank you for taking the time to walk us through the build. Will the Kadee between rail uncouplers work with Micro Engineering code 70? Are the turnouts you used all #6? It was great you showed the placement of the magnetic uncouplers as l would have made several mistakes if you hadn’t addressed the thoughts on their placement. I know you are using Peco code 83 track but I would like to use code 70 Micro Engineering track as I think it has greater detail. Looking forward to your next installment.

Quick question: For DCC, can I use Atlas and/or PECO *insulated* frog switches on a HO scale, Code 83 layout? Thanks!

I have a uncoupling tool that has a plastic handle connected to a u shape with 2 small magnets on each side of the u. It can pose the same problem as a pick on damaging details if you're not cautious when using it.

Hi Larry Thanks for another great instructional video. The kadee magnets rely on the under track magnets center line to be under the center of the cars to be uncoupled. Would they work if their center line was placed under the center line of the cars on a curve? All the best and stay safe Paul from Zillmere

I'm a cheapskate so I just use wooden shish-ka-bob skewers to uncouple Kadees. I leave them lying all over the layout and it's no big deal if they break or get lost.

Larry, you cannot uncouple or couple prototype cars on a curve. I have found that what works or does work on the prototype also does not work on my layout.

with the Under track magnet, is it still ok to put ballast over them ?

With the length of the Kadee magnet as it is, would it be possible to cut it in half, or thirds? Less of a magnetic surface would make for less uncoupling..... if it can work that way.

I am using n scale. Is there an option for me?

Can you use the electric magnets on 00 as it says ho scale?

Oh, and it's a shame your friend with the large layout lost interest in the hobby. I hope it's not a health problem or job issue that's preventing him from having operating sessions. You should call him and suggest an operating session :-)