The dog has the right attitude... Not bothered at all... It's a cool boat... Just get it home...

Your hard work will pay off in the end. Stick with it. Thanks for the episode 🙌

The dog is great for your channel.

Please be very careful using acetone inside your boat. KZfaqrs Barefoot Doctors' catamaran burned to the waterline because of an acetone vapour build up in the bilge!

I build wooden boats in Australia 🇦🇺 and we put hard sealant tubes out in the the sun or in a bucket of hot water before use to make it more easy to use out the gun!!!

Paint scrapers are for sale at the paint store.

Not even started the refit yet and I’m loving your videos 😂

Put sealant in a bucket of hot water for 5 mins, it'll be much easier.

get yourself a battery powered muiltitool and remove the strip either side get yourself some scrap decking remove the broken bits clean and cut a bit out the scrap to fit, glue down and chalk, will last until you can do the whole thing but will stop the water getting in

It took me about 5 days solo to completely remove my old teak decks and fill all the screw holes with epoxy. On my tayana 37 Then it took 2,000.00 in treadmaster diamond and 500.00 in epoxy and 2 weeks to put it down. It came out amazing. That was 2008. It's still great. I did the desert sand color but I would do the teak color if I did it again. The only bummer about it is surfboard wax will stain it. It's a bitch to gether off then

Don't be disheartened. In the beginning with a new boat a lot of things break but after a few years you know what has to be done and it is not such a big issue. A compost toilet us maybe much cheaper and simpler. A shower can be taken at the marina..... But I am very lazy..... I have a Catalac 8 catamaran since 20 years here in the Netherlands.

The outboard segment had me dyin laughing 🤣❤

I think a hard bristle floor scrubbing brush would work on the shower grate. Also don't use the bilge pump connected to under the shower grate. Not with that amount of chems. It will burn it out or wreck it in a flash. Or clog it up. Cheers.

For your grate take a Olfa knife and cut the paint in joint on the grate pull the grate with a rope

If the outboard only runs on choke ....The main jet in the carb is plugged

I’ll help y’all change the deck when y’all get ready to rip it off and replace it. As for your plumbing problems, does it have a macerator unit for your “solids”? I don’t think a bilge pump would handle that crap… Amazon has a few of those listed under $400 that are familiar names to me. Especially Jabsco. Y’all could probably use regular TP too! Until then, it’s the old handicap toilet hanging off the stern with a classy shower curtain around it lol

On the teak grate.....Save yourself from unnecessary labor....I would take a plunge cut with a multitool to the perimeter joint.... since you will need to trim that teak anyways for a loose fitting once you refinish & reinstall the grate. The best multitool blades for the buck is EZARC carbide blade (Amazon 3 pack $25)

lol Hall, remember, even if you are not even in the state when something goes wrong.... It's always your fault. ( Dang O-rings any how ) Y'all got this. easy peasy just work one problem at a time.

A comment for the youtube algorithm. Paint removal is never fun but can be rewarding when complete. Thanks for the videos. 👍

Well after watching this video I need a break. Worn out. One thing I am happy about is by watching this I don't want a boat !!!!! Ha Ha Good Luck. Love the video. :)

Pro tip: Set your teak sealants in a pot of hot water on the stove. Once the material/outside is warm, it should come out much easier. Also puncturing a large hole helps when opening up the caulk tube. Id change the fuel filter in the outboard, seems like its getting starved for fuel when your compensating so much with the choke. A carb cleaning wouldn't hurt either. $10 your head needs a new joker valve, its a $6 dollar part at a marine store and a 10min fix. As for the sump pump; just leave it draining into the bilge for now; you have larger problems to address, a sump pump is a luxury at this point. Id make a list and prioritize your necessities. Good luck! -Capt. Lo

Too late for you now, but you should RUN from a boat with a teak deck. They always develop deck leaks. You need to replace the joker valve in the head. $15. Don't crank the starter so long. You will burn it up. If a diesel doesn't fire right when you first turn the key there is something that needs attention.

Welcome to boat ownership. You will get use to your boat quirks and understand her needs. 😊

Y’all have made good progress in understanding this boat systems (fuel system, bilge and sump “Y” or “why” connection ; ) Know this is a bit frustrating, but sure gets better every day, that teak grate is coming around nicely!

Ive just discovered your channel and am enjoying watching your adventures, what a beautiful boat hope you make it to the uk one day 🇺🇸🇬🇧

Take an oscillating tool with a thin blade and run it into the groove of that shower grate. All four sides. Then you should be able to get the grate up.

Fuel, Check into stabilizing your new fuel. 1) Old gas sitting to long will evaperate and leave a residue In the carburetor. If its not fresh It's bad. 2) The carburetor has a float bowl. and jets and needle valves. These parts need to be cleaned from the residue of old gas. this is why the carbs must be empty when the motor goes into storage. 3) Remove the spark plugs and read them i.e. is the ceramic cone Tan or Black in color also check for the proper plug occording to the code listed on the plug. The chart will list the proper spark gap required. these little things you should know. 4) Don't presume the previous owner did anything right. Don't expect other poeple to follow the maintinace procedure correctly. 5) Also check the air filter. 6) Also check the oil level and the Oil condition. Note: when the Oil level is low, some motors have a built in safe guard to shut the motor down.

Well you guys are certainly trying. Hopefully there are more smiles than tears. Try you best to get lot of ventilation in the boat when working with any chemicals. Working with them in any enclosed space can be dangerous. To get than grate in the heads out try a very fine blade on a multi tool and just open up the seem a bit. Wishing you guys the very best. Good luck.

Apply heat from a heat gun and a teak deck scraper. Just like you would for thick varnish. Easy Schmeezey

Check all your tap washers,pull shower tap shrouds off run taps see if leaking down the wall etc

You might not have a perfect boat but you have a perfect dog 🐕🥰

Buy a full manual for the boat, then you should see what supposed to be there, unless someone changed part out.

Water pressure! That boat should have an accumulator tank. It uses a bicycle pump to keep air in it. Once you find it you should find your source for the pressure issue.

Use a knife to cut the paint and open the seam so you can remove the panel. Your dog is really cute.

Wouldnt a razor blade to cut the seal of the paint work

40 plus years of wood boat ownership speaking........In my town a gallon of asphalt roofing cement costs about $20. It's messy to work with, but it's proven to seal leaks, above the waterline and below. Only temporary and if leak is small below waterline. With a putty tool, or even a bit of plywood, pat the stuff liberally into the leak area and in a wide area surrounding. Press it into the holes and seams. Especially in hot Florida, it will form a tacky surface in a few days. It can be applied to a wet surface, just be sure to press it into the holes and cracks so it sticks good. The stuff is horrible messy, but that's what makes it so good for sealing leaks...it sticks to everything, especially your hands. Added benefit, it kills all bacteria that it touches, no more rot forming if you have tarred properly. Can be thinned with cooking oil to get it to soak into the wood better. Linseed oil is often used, but it's also high priced, special for boat owners...and what is Linseed Oil? It's flaxseed oil, the non food grade of flax seed oil. Cooking oil. Asphalt roofing patch is the modern easier to use version of the tar that wood sailing ships were famous for, and why sailors were often referred to as "tars" or " jack tars". Can be used on leaky decks where you will need to walk, add a layer of cloth, like canvas on top, tacked down and try not to step on it to much till it's hardened up a bit in the sun. Sikaflex and the like is good for sealing windows and port lights. But it's always overpriced in marinas. About 35 years ago, I caulked some of the seams of a wood boat with Sikaflex. It's tough stuff and holds very well...to its self, but not to the wood. A year later I had to pull it out and replace with white lead type caulking. Taking it out was easy, loosen an end and pull, it came out in one long string, all 45 ft. It stuck to its self good, but not to the planking. At 66 years old, I still have a wood boat, that's has been thoroughly tarred top side. No leaks, and it's where there is lots of rain. Hope this helps.

Re : Decks , I have to agree with a the gentleman that commented below, he mentioned roofing cement but, I would also suggest tar even after you redo the decks. YT - Acorn to Arabella sealed his entire deck with tar. It is easily available and reasonably priced. Also, it has a history in wooden boats. Just a thought on the sink in the galley , is there and accumulator in the water line or just the pump ? Just a couple quick thoughts but, I have to warn you , I've only had one cup of coffee. All the best, Hal

I just joined your channel, why, I don't know! I've been where you are, and I've been where you are going. The only advise I can give to you is when things are going good and everything is working, go like mad and enjoy every second!

Waving a hand from Northeast Maryland McDaniels marina SVE fellowship bathroom great should have a vacuum pump should be on the panel for shower. Have fun be safe.

love your show hope you keep the dog

This boat has been setting for a period---Out in the ocean rocking about all that shit in the fuel tank will rock and roll and clog your filters--garanteed!!!----Mikey

Good effort...keep at it..keep learning...

Hello from your VW channel! This reminds me of that movie Captain Ron. lol You guys are living a cool life that's for sure!

For the future you can use plastic wrap over that stripper to keep it moist. They also make some kind of scrubby pads to remove the paint, they're blue with white scrubby stuff on the bottom, at least they were 40 years ago when I used some citrus based stripper. Good luck with that floor grate I'm betting the is paint down in the crack that is going to give you fits. Maybe a broken hacksaw blade will help. Keep the good stuff coming.

I’ve stripped so many pieces of old furniture and cabinetry and hands down I will never go back to chemical strippers since using a professional heat gun! It’s the best investment if you have multiple projects plus it’s always handy for McGuivering!

Haha, projects galore. Love the increased speed editing stuff. Never had an issue with those sikaflex tubes. Or the hole was too small (you should cut it of the tube and not pinch a hole like you did, or the stuff went bad. Asking for replacement seems logical. Love the way you show the learning experience! 😊

New old boat, always broken. winch, contact corrosive, either in the winch motor, controller or connector. Shower grid, use a multitool in the gap. Gallley fosset - Air is in the lines, hence why its spraying. Maybe a pump issue /needs to be serviced, in the line from the watertank. Head - Use a bucket if nesseracy. Until the issue is fixed. Sikaflex tube, maybe gone bad. Happened to me with a brand new tube. Silicone is temporary fix. (not permanent). Got a feeling that these are just the start, what you gonna find. Refit/servicing/repairing aren´t cheap on a boat. Takes 3-5times longer. Boat yoga. :) Love the dog. :)

You have to cut the caulking canister tip, and then puncture the seal inside the tube to get caulk out. Did you do that. First day is like watching a train wreck.

You're going to have to mechanically force the panel up. If you damage it a little just sand & finish it. That panel should fit kinda loosely. A ¼" gap around it is fine..

You guys have gotten yourselves into a major project! I think more than you have anticipated. I'm glad it's you guys and not me! To do this while living on board suggests you guys are masochists. You guys need a temporary place where you can stay until the boat is liveable.

You guys are doing fine

Surrand wrap will help prevent the stripper from drying out prematurely

For that stripper the reason you put something over it like cooking plastic wrap is to keep it from drying out. The chemical that removes the paint is in the moisture part and if it evaporates it looses its stripping power

Owning a boat, break out another thousand

Sooo. Paint remover is just going glue that floor panel down tighter..! Take a box cutter type razor knife and cut open the seams. Worse case, use a mini skilsaw to open up the joints. Its wood, you can build it up after yoi get it out.

Those toilets have a Macerator and this may need service or replacement. Of course rubber hoses and clamps have a usable life span before deterioration takes place.

‘First teak is trash,outboard carbs needs rebuild,toilet needs flapper valve replaced.change all fuel lines and put 10 micron filter in the racors put new primary fuel filter on the engine.Love Captain Ron and his deep southern slang👍You guys honesty can replace Good bad and ugly and that is a Huge complement.GBU sailing Matt and his sexy mate.You two are hilarious and I know you will get everything working……😉

Tender’s outboard needs a carb rebuild, sure you already know that. But hey it runs

Hints: 1) heat tube of sealant up in sun or with heat gun. 2) thin putty knife tapped into seating frame of shower floor, or thin knife to cut seal between floor and drain cover.

Hi your having fun! I'd prefer to be doing what your doing though! The outboard is probably clogged with ethanol gel ,happens when it sits. fuel is,squeezing thru the gel and just enough to run with choke on. Remove and Clean carb .......( is fuel cap vent open?) That long pin you saw in the,caulk gun is to poke down the nozzle to break the seal. Fast cure caulk goes bad fast .the whole tube may be,solid! The 2900 will seal a leak even if not a full cure but try the cheap PL brand at home depot, same stuff! Wax paper over the stripper stops it evaporating and work for longer. Try getting a 'hook scraper' it has a large triangle on the sharp end! Then try to find the screws,holding the frame down and remove the entire floor with frame. Re Wiindlass , looks like there was an old,/dead foot pushbutton switch in the,deck??? Great edit and,music choice Cheers warren

The stiff wire attached to the bottom of the caulk gun is for breaking the seal on the caulk tube...

Wow ! I had my first boat a 35’ sail boat for 12 years , you guys have problems and you need to put them in priority and finish each job completed before moving on or your going to have a a load of problems half done all the time, the grate in the head just comes up , use a hacksaw blade around the outside of the grate and work it up , try to check your bilge pump circuit first , switch, fuse, wires before you check the pump , good luck P.S. I was a mechanic for 50 years and the boat repairs were easy for me , hope your are fairly easy also .

Why didn’t you run round the edge with a sharp implement first to try, then fit an L shaped tool into the grating and pull, two L shaped tools even better

I am surprised Hal didn’t realize she didn’t pop a hole in the seal

Have you asked your selves what did I get myself into yet ? Ha ha. Well I know that you knew it was going to need work. So I am happy to see your positive attitudes here. You going to get it I know. Do you have board of boat projects yet? As far as the teak wood, I used to work at a boat dealership and we used teak oil on new boats teak weekly. And then the boss would say never use paint on teak. It would cause it to rot. And it was better to leave it bare than paint it. And he said only use stain or varnish, so you removing this paint could be a really good thing. But that was him and I am not any expert on that so you probably know more than me. I always hated working on toilets and black water drains and tanks. Good luck with the projects ! And I had move out of my house for week because I had a stopped (tree roots )up main line that had to be dug up under the house and replaced last month. Oh I found a boat that is old, if next years raise was already here I think I take a close look at it, rather have a newer one but money is a big problem for me. It is a 1999/32ft for 52 grand Beneteau Ocenis 321 pics look good. But you know it may not be as good as what I think.

All call tubes with a removable tip need to have the seal broken in side the tube newer guns have a piece on the side that swings out to beak the seal..

Most likely outboard carbuerator needs dis-assembly, rebuilt, change plug too, lower unit oil. If that fuel is not new, discard, clear fuel available at marina fuel dock --waterpump impeller replace too. STOP SMOKING over top of fuel tank and outboard. Basically this whole boat IS NOT READY TO LEAVE MARINA !!!-----Mikey

I'm just sitting here wondering if by chance you didn't get a survey done before you bought the boat considering all the problems that are popping up. I also thought that maybe the previous owner hard wired the anchor windlass into some other wire other than the one at the switchboard that says anchor windlass or that there is a fuse somewhere that needs replacing...48 years of other peoples wiring sure can be a nightmare.

Install a hammer arrester...

There's an interesting seal inside the tip at the base of the nozzle. 😅

I’ve owned boats for 40 yrs. Always read the instructions.Poke a hole in the front of the tube ,like it says to.Take the leaky teak deck off before you’r balsa core rots(even more).just saying.good luck.

Did you pop the seal in the caulking tube?

Poke the membrain before you put the tip on the calk

Can you say tarp? Good luck, beautiful boat.

*Bentley is adorable! It would nice if you could keep the cutie but do you think he could handle very hot & humid climates?*

Did u poke end of caulk tube open ?

You have to buy the toxic paint remover the safe stuff doesn’t work that well, remember acetones, and other flammable fumes are heavier than air. Make sure your ventilating the boat well. Ok I will stop being a know it all

I took Tayana 37, completely a part to bare fiber glass , let me know if you have any questions

did you have a marine engineer inspect the boat and lift out on the dry to do so many hidden nasty,s under water money well spent , a boat definition of same "a long narrow hole in the water you pour $1000s into to keep it from filling up ""i use sika flex on decks works great n but need to tape edges and that deck does needs some work,multi tool with flat blade will do wonders to get that grate out

Sit unopened tubes of silicone in a bucket of hot water for 20/30 mins

Couldn't you have just used a utility razor blade to go around the edges of that grate instead of the paint stripper??

Did you shove a long nail into the nozzle? Or take the nozzle off and break the aluminum cover on the tube?

With that caulk, did you puncture the membrane inside the tube? There is a pin on the applicator for that.

I am new to your channel and it’s awesome. However you know I’m a jokester. So, why did you guys buy a hot water heater! You don’t have to heat hot water. Isn’t it a water heater? Haha it’s a joke folks. I’ve always said that

Love you ¿crocheted? bandana. You make it?

Need to order: 1 lb C4 will solve all your boat issues

You're Killing Me!1 The product is wrong. 3m 5200 comes in Black. This is not a quick and dirty project. It is a massive time consuming project.More Tarps!! Make sure that dinghy and engine operate properly--this is your tow-boat and pickup truck for the yacht-----Mikey

I finally saw your toilet--that is the cheapest, lowest quality marine toilet made. The next one up in quality is the Raritan PH2--one of the Best hand pump toilets made. That old Jabsco is about $150, the Raritan PH2 with household size bowl(recommended) is $450, my last one purchased--expect 500-$600 now. Had a Tampax make it through once--do not try that one!!. Have had 10 years of living a board, 50 yrs of boats, many females on board--DO NOT be bashful about advising ladies to NOT discard female products in your toilet!!! Wastebasket in head is important!?------mikey

Hal has alot of patience, more than me. I can understand why they name boats woman names. They are pretty to look at but always have issues, you will never fix all the issues and it would probably be easier to just take all your money and throw it in the ocean...just sayin