just a quicky for you guys today - if you go with a fuel return line/bypass system on a classic, this thing makes it easy: amzn.to/2W0uoNT later in the week here i'll have a video on setting your distributor curve - stay tuned ya toobies. Also, enjoy my “equivocate” where I was trying to say equate 😂

It also helps prolong electric fuel pump life for street use!

Your system is one of the first "mods" I'm doing to the Dodge. Thanks for the breakdown.

Love this concept. It's like you're using fuel to create a dedicated cooling system for the carb.

I did this to 76 F150 after watching your video , fixed my problems! Thank you!

Where to put the return line had me stumped for a while too. I addressed it by buying a piece of 3/8 in. x 12 in. pre-made steel brake line, cut one end off, drilled a hole in the sending unit cover on the tank, and soldered the 3/8 in. tube in place. Granted this did require dropping the tank and creating a small bracket to support the return tube just as the supply line is supported, which I tack welded in place. But it is another solid and cost effective solution, like the one you suggest in this video. Your earlier videos helped me realize my Holley Red pump was causing my carb to flood so adding a regulator let me to this. Thanks for all your great tips! I've learned a lot and will continue following closely.

Luke is my favorite car guy. Genuine good dude.

I'm glad you're doing this to help people out I hope they are too

To be honest I hired several guys to solve this issue for me and they never told me what the issue was. I was sure it wasn't the carburetor. My carb was new. After seeing this series on vapor lock I am sure these guys knew what this was and hesitated to tell me. My car had a dedicated return line but without the original carburetor, it was never hooked up. I even asked about it because in old photos the line was hooked up. I was told it wasn't necessary. Truly it is necessary. Lesson learned.

Good video, I do the same thing for my FI conversions, even for returnless set up's. We might have discussed this before but I remove the filler neck and give it a good scrubbing, using 3/8 brake line I drill a hole in the neck as low as possible, put a 120* bend in the brake line and cut it off so most of the bend is there, put it through the hole and lay the line over on to the neck and solder it in place. A hose clamp supports the line to the neck and a 3/8" inverted flare to a barb or AN fitting adaptor is installed for connection to your return line. Works like a champ. I do this even on a returnless system except I install a tee somewhere in the high pressure line after the fuel rail, tap the internal bore of the tee and install a pipe plug with a .5mm (.018") hole in it to bypass a small amount of fuel back to the tank. Always cool fuel at the injectors and flowing through the pump, no bubbles or vapor locking at the injectors and unless your pushing over 600 HP a stock pump will provide plenty of fuel. $5 in parts.

I'm in the process of doing this on my 62 galaxie! Inspired by you my man

I liked your comment on the fact that a carburetor is a static output fuel delivery system. It does not adjust like fuel injection. So you want to keep the fuel input as static as possible for consistent results.

I can say this will definitely help me! Thanks Luke!

Great vid as always! Thanks again for your help. Going to convert my plymouth. Thanks again.!

I like this video. My only car with a carburetor, my 1869 Corvette still has the original type fuel filter that has a second outlet. It’s a very small, sends fuel back to the tank via a separate return line. Chevrolet’s reasoning was that the return helped keep the fuel cool. A lot of guys on the Corvette Forum don’t believe that and remove it. Their loss.

Great tips bud! Thank you

Thanks Luke it's a nice day here in Kentucky I'm going to get my dogs out too buddy have a good day buddy 👍😎👌

Good one Luke...enjoy the dogs!

I do like the music you choose for your videos to thanks

Love your videos! Very new to carburetors and your videos have done alot for me with my Edelbrock on my 88 Grand Wagoneer.

Great vid. Thanks 👍

That's how you make a pull g. nice work!!

Yes sir this works well for supercharged applications even better. 😉

Great job and video 👍👍🇨🇱

Thanks for this video luke ive got a shortbox 79 f 100 and im gunna have to do fuel return cause shes rich and ive been through 3 carbs to figure it out

Never seen the filler neck tap before for the fuel return, nice mod Luke! What I did for my fuel return is: my truck came with a charcoal canister that was disconnected. That canister had a hard line back to the fuel tank itself. If u no longer use that can, utilize that hard line as a return for fuel. Be sure to clean it all out before u start bypassing fuel into it

That was my idea not exactly but I was wondering if I could just tap in to my filler neck it will be easy in my 65 mustang great video

There’s a emissions 3/8 line that runs down the passenger side frame rail that I used for the return. All of these trucks has it and it goes from what people call the coffee can under the hood and runs right to the top of the gas tank where it goes in and you don’t have to drop the tank or run a line the length of the truck. You just need 3 ft of 3/8 fuel line and a T with the regulator after the T and of course you need a electric fuel pump and I put mine right at the tank on the frame. It works perfectly and you won’t ever have to worry about vapor lock again and the cool fuel probably helps on power and fuel mileage

Pulling in the truck ( intro ) has a whole different meaning down here in the south...🤣

Genius idea,, filler neck

That is slick !

Question: Looking to do this on a '61 CJ5. The mechanical fuel pump typically draws from a fitting on the top of the tank. The fitting is connected to a fuel pick-up tube. I known the pumps do better with pushing fuel than they do with pulling and was wondering what you suggest. I could always put a fitting/barb on the bottom of the tank and take advantage of gravity, but the pressure of the fuel above the pickup tube should help force / draw fuel through the system.

Great video bro

Have you found that adding the return feed to the filler neck has impacted fuel filling? Does the pump run wide open and click off properly like usual?

Thanks so much for this! I'm trying to keep my girlfriends grandpas truck running/alive- so she won't want to get rid of it, but it's pretty unreliable as it sits. It starts up and appears to drive just fine- but once warmed up, she loses power and eventually stalls. We also get vapor lock when attempting to start a hot truck- so I'm hoping that in following in your footsteps, we can make the truck reliable again. Do you have a video on how you did the electric fuel pump? That would be super helpful. I know in one of your videos- you said you wanted the pump to be rated HIGHER than what you'd want the regulator to be set to ('14 psi pump w/ a return regulator at 6 psi'), and I believe I might have found a mechanical edelbrock pump that is rated to put out 10. But if switching to electric is easier, I might just do that. Thanks again.

Awesome video. I want to install filler neck return line to help with my truck heat soak issues. If I purchase filler neck to I also need to purchase pump? Or does it return fuel by gravity once the engine is shut off?

My fuel pump has a return line. I added a fuel pressure regulator and it helped. If I upgrade to a FP regulator with a return can I 'T' into the return line from the fuel pump? If so, I may put a bleed valve at the end of the carb fuel rail. Plumbing is my weakness...

`Mystery finally solved. I never knew how to get the returned fuel into the tank.

Long live the carburetor!!

How about if I have dual tanks? A switch valve I suppose... Thanks for the video.

I’ve got a sbc 350 with a 4150 650CFM and a fuel rail on it pumped by a Holley red electronic pump. Have the issue where it’s plumbing way too much fuel and starts overflowing that carb really fast. Do you think I could put a pressure regulator and return line on the other end of my fuel rail to help regulate the rail pressure so it doesn’t do that or does it need to be before the fuel rail?

The filler neck is a great tip. My car has a return line already in place but for some reason, it was disconnected. I want to reinstall it. The line seems fine. How do I test it to make sure it's ok to reconnect? I wouldn't want to put any trash into the tank from an old line. Any suggestions?

On many Fords from the 70s they had the egr spacer plate . Is there a easy way to remove it ? Is there a spacer you can buy ? It doesn't look like you can just remove it and set the stock 2bbl right down on the manifold . Always worried the old EGR might leak a bit of vacuum .

What about that set up for the regulator what did you bolt that to?do you have to vent the tank And also the return line is metal from the firewall back and just rubber in the bay? Would this work with a 69 f100 I got my tank behind my seat and also a 66 mustang? Any advice is much appreciated

Would you talk about installing a durapart system or maybe doing the GM HEI system into a Ford? That is the HEI module not a dist. Like how you did it and your thoughts on using a GM HEI since ive heard mixed reviews on the duraspark boxes failing. That is the ones from the auto parts stores. Since a OE box are heard to find nowadays. Great video! Also, can a do a fuel return on a motorcraft 2150? non feedback carb?

I'm doing a swap from a mechanical fuel injection system to a carburetor on a small block 302. Is it as easy as using a bypass regulator and connecting it between the carburetor and the existing fuel lines?

Can I use that return line from the old canister venting system that I removed.

Question for this old video: does this return setup give you problems filling at a gas station? I’ve had vehicles that wouldn’t take gas with the pump handle fully open.

Is it necessary if you have a mechanical pump and if I do decide to run a return with a mechanical pump does it make a difference

Where can I find you link to the electric fuel pump? Thanks, and great channel!

Hmmm....u got me thinking- my 79 302 F150 still has one of the old emissions line that runs down the pass side to the rear tank that at the sending unit I could possibly use for a return - one drawback I see off hand is its diameter is very small & may have too much back pressure??

What in line fuel pumps would you recommend?

I want your return fuel log. Is that just 3/8 brass barbed T and 3/8 fuel hose? What fitting do you have going from the hose into the inlets?

Is it possible to fit a regulator after your mechanical fuel pump without a return line?

I was wondering. For a carb setup could I just run a corvette filter/regulator and use that as a return? Where it makes return line shorter and not have to come from engine bay?

can I use the return line that originally went to my mechanical fuel pump as the return the regulator coming from an electric fuel pump.

What about the return line tube that goes in the tank to prevent aeration

I panicked and ran a return directly after the electric pump straight back into the tank. It seems to work. Is it a good idea?

Do you have a video on setting up the transfer slots then starting it and adjusting to run right

Can u run 2 bypass regulator with 1 pump , carb motor

Great video as usual! I’d like your thoughts on what I was planning to do, if possible. In my ‘74 D100, I’m planning to use a later model 318 or 360 Magnum engine, except with a carb (not using the FI). These engines don’t have a provision for a mechanical fuel pump. Question is; if I used the later model factory tank and electric in-tank factory pump, can I regulate the high fuel pressure down (and run a return line of coarse) to the 6ish psi for the carb? Reason for the factory in-tank pump is they seem to last pretty much forever, and quiet too (I have 293k on the original pump in my 2000 Ram 1500, which, maybe is the exception and not the rule, but still...). I hear about a lot of problems with aftermarket pump failures lately, be it Holley, Carter whatever, and this truck will be a legit daily driver. Anyway, sorry for the long winded question! Thanks for any input!

You need a guest appearance of the "Mook".

If my K5 has 4 outlets on my fuel sending unit does that mean one of them is a return? Under the hood has the charcoal canister that has been disconnected and not in use anymore.

You had a return line on your Galaxie that was more like a vapor return line with a 0.060 inch hole drilled in a bolt head or something similar. That was more like an old school vapor separator return system. Any differences you see between the return line on the Galaxie and the return line on your truck. Do you prefer one over the other?

I don't question how effective this is, but it makes me wonder. If heak-soaked fuel has less oxygen from sitting in the lines around the motor bay in a dead-head setup, what keeps the fuel from being heat-soaked while its sitting in the fuel bowl of the carb?

Damn that's a great idea!! Do you have the return regulator set at the same pressure as your first regulator?

Did you run rubber hose all the way back to tank on the return line

Hello, I have a 86 chevy c10 v8 305. I have deleted my evap canister and my fuel tank collapsed in on itself. I'm wondering if it's because the line I didn't know what to with I closed off. I have a edelbrock 1406 carb

I’m assuming you could actually get better fuel mileage with this as well?

I just used a brass T into the suction line side of the fuel pump. Think about it.

I'm confused I have a summit racing carb with a solid type dual fuel line so how do I plumb the regulator like you have it in this video without all that rubber hose and still have the regulator as you have it here?

My fuel sending unit has 4 tubes is one of them a return?

This is the next thing I’m doing to my 77....as soon as I finish painting the house. 😭😭😭

Hi there, I have a 87 caprice classic with a 305 small block chevy stock everything except for the carb and distributor, I have a HEI and a edelbrock 1406 600cfm. and when ever I have the AC on the clutch engages and the idle drops really bad to the point when at a stop, I have to hold the throttle to a certain RPM or else the engine cuts out, there is a AC solenoid kit that you can order, and I would like to know if you're willing to show how to properly install it and have it all set right. Would be greatly appreciated

So youre running your pump straight to the carb then regulating the pressure afterwards? It seems to work, but seems backwards. Whats the pros to doing it this way instead of pump into the regulator then to the carb?

Seven thumbs down? Come on guys, what does a man have to do to get a thumbs up from you people?

ok, so many questions. What about a regulator with the return port (Mallory type)? I'm running deadhead (390FE) Mechanical fuel pump, Edelbrock carb, and unregulated rubber lines. Trying to methodically make one change at a time. ( also checking your setup on your vapor lock video several years ago). Any rubber replacement fuel line recommendations?

Ive got to figure out how to do this with my in cab tank on my 1970 f100…

What the final thoughts on this gas filler neck idea? Yes? No?

Would this set-up work on a 1970 f100 with fuel tank behind the seat?

did the truck have a return line ......what is diff. about yours.

Did you make the bracket for the regulator or was that purchased?

Your fuel pressure regulator has 2 outlines and 1 inline. For the video it looks to me that you connect the pump to the carbs and to one regulator outline, the other outline has the pressure gauge, and the inline is your return line to the tank. Are your connections like I described or am I wrong?

How would you set up the return line with a mechanical fuel pump?

Pretty cool video how come your backyard mechanics Have such scrappy cars?

Hi Luke! Is it acceptable to run a high pressure neoprene line back to the tank from the regulator rather then a Metal line? I run a Blue Holly elect external pump, 14 psi max, and use a Holley 4160 750 cfm Carb. Thank you.

What type of gauge is on your bypass? I looked at the link for the bypass but did not come with a gauge.

How does it bypass with no return line from regulator

Do you run the same size return line that you're using for your inlet fuel flow

You should also mention that running a bypass set up instead of a "deadhead" set up with save your electric fuel pump because it is not working as hard with the bypass set up. Be Well and Thank You.

What do you mean back to the gas tank though. Do you literally run that line all the way back to the fuel tank?

Is it possible to run both a mechanical and electric fuel pump? We are talking 7 - 10 psi here.

Cordless drill and a couple tubes of good ole blue RTV😵😂😕. We've all torn into em. Don't you love a carburetor that is full of RTV????

So you run the regulator after the fuel goes to the carb?

Is it a waste of time to run the return line with my mechanical fuel pump?

Why didn't you talk about the ball valve in your return line? I'd think that would be useful for some people to understand.

I think you should paint it

Haha, I removed all that 'return' shit from my 73Econoline years ago, I had enough leak issues, less lines the better, damn ethanol had destroyed the rubber lines, and ruined the tank, I still have the arrangement where it connected to the carb, never want to put it back on, it was Fords pitiful fix for vapor locking due to heat, if those fools put a reasonable radiator in with a fan shroud there would never have been a problem, left it up to the owners to have radiators custom built for their vans.

I dont get how this would work on my metal filler neck without dropping and cutting it.

Lmao my '74 car has this from factory