Update: I have been running this regulator for just over a year now without any issues. Seems to be working perfectly still.

Thanks Shane yr a very big help to a lot of people who can't afford the brand name parts

Bought identical kit and have had in use for two years on a naturally aspirated Chevy. Has worked flawlessly. Very impressed with it considering the aeromotive piece it copies costs 175.00 or more, the diaphragm even interchanges.

Thanks Shane, great tear down,

Thank you very much. This is a very good video and review. Good work and I appreciate it.

Adjustable wrenches for the win 🙌

That is a great review Shane. When you took the diaphragm apart it was curled at the edges. I wonder if it was perfectly flat at first. The curling may come from some incompatibility with the fuel. It is extremely common on Chinese cheapies. They build the exterior to look fantastic and robust but on the inside there is a component which is "designed" to fail and ensure the owner has to replace it after the warranty period. If the diaphragm is replaced with a proper one, it will last for decades! Manufacturing items where one component is designed to fail has been widely adopted by some famous household western brands . If the item comes with a full replacement guarantee, the odds are that it is programmed to fail after warranty period. The companies order 10-20% more stock and use it to replace the few that fail within warranty. No need for servicing department and parts inventory, just replace the crap item with another crap item that will keep the customer happy for another short while. Now you've had this for 2 years. It would be interesting to see the inside diaphragm. Did you swap the diaphragm with an Aeromotive one? ? The cost is very convenient and warrants the search for a good quality diaphragm replacement. The gauge is ESSENTIAL on a regulator. Fuel pressure should be on all consoles. It seems that the diaphgram could be replaced by a kit for a an Aeromotive 13101, 13109, 13151, 13159, 13114 FPR. This kit costs nearly as much as the whole regulator, but it is probably well worth it

Wish you could’ve started it.great video . I got the same regulator today

Three ports, none of them identified, no instructions and I had to read fifty comments before I found out the plumbing instructions. BTW, what I got out of all this was as you are looking at the gauge with regulator adj. pointing up is: inlet on the right, out to engine on left and the bottom one is return to tank. You would have thought in seven and a half minutes that would have been mentioned first.

thanks for the video and review

Great review, my diaphragm is leaking fuel out the vaccum port I’m going to buy aeromotive rebuild kit 👍

Noticed the gauge is liquid filled. Recommend fitting a short length of vac tubing vented to atmosphere, so you're not forever chasing your tail on bogus pressure readings caused by fluid pressure deforming or even breaking the gauge's very delicate movement.

Yooo this is a brilliant review didn’t just slap it on and send it actualy tested and then did a strip down hell yeh that’s a subscribe

Great review. Glad you disassembled it. Hope it lasts!

good vid man, it helped.

Just bought a 20$ regulator. This video makes me feel better about my choice.

Yo is the bottom of the regulator return? Mine came with 0 instructions. I can’t figure out which is feed, flow and return. Or if it even matters. Also did you have to use washers? Mine came with washers but AN fittings shouldn’t need washers to seal. That’s the whole point of AN lines. Idk what the washers are for

I bought one similar to this one to install on a volkswagen type 4 bus is Weber 34 ICT dual carbs and wondering what do you do with that smaller what looks like a vacuum port?

All the companies offering the same setups for $300 plus are hating you lol....good info brother thanks for sharing

Shane , what's the difference on a 'rising rate" 1:1 ratio fpr compared to just a regular fpr? I was told a rising rate fpr is alright for an almost stock, n/a engine. Should I get one that is like the one you tested here? Mine doesn't adjust with an Allen key.

Hey mate did the fuel rail adapter in the kit fit the fuel rail well

Thank you man

Can you block the bottom port and use the two side ports as a feed to the rail?

Great review bro! I did a ton of research before I bought mine and barely found any info, so I just went for it. One thing that i'd like to point out is that the inlet, outlet, and return ports seem to have been threaded too large for the fittings. you have to use a crap ton of Teflon tape to make a good solid confident fit. I also discovered that the inlet and outlet threads are -6an, (.... well, close to -6an) so if you decide to swap out the fittings, that's what you need. It took me a while to figure out because it's not listed anywhere, and I wanted to run a -8an supply line without attaching a million different adapters to it.

For a second there I thought you were Chester 👍👍👍

I got one of these but i cant get any fuel pressure on a honda. Cant figure it out works fine with the stock one

That’s an awesome vid

you plumbed to boost? it seems that would push down on the membrane/piston and restrict fuel flow? vacuum would seem to provide a lift function? i must be misunderstanding

I have a question so does tightening it cause the pressure to rise ?

I did a review in basically the same regulator over a year ago and then just did a one year follow up a couple months ago. The regulator is definitely solid and the braided line is usable, but the fittings are crap. Very easy to feel they’re made out of really thin and light aluminum compared to the name brand fittings or even the cheap summit racing fittings. I’d upgrade the fittings before they give out brother. Just my 2 cents.

Yeap but what about performance? Or How long it will last? If u put it ón a 4cyl stock engine with some upgrades?

I see this was 4 yrs ago? Is it adjustable & have a return line as well?? I've never had to buy one before but I want one that is adjustable, to use with a carb, & has a fuel return. But I dont know if they have them like that? From what I've seen, $35 is a steal!!

Any chance we get the link for this part?

The earings!!!

i have the same one. after awhile the vacuum reference line started letting fuel through into the manifold. first i was running rich, then i was having trouble regulating the fuel pressure(imagine that) then one day i put the key in the ignition and checked my phone for less than 5 mins ( fuel pump running, vehicle off) i went to start and had hydro lock. lucky i didnt have any permanent damage but all of my fueling issues went away when i replaced it with a name brand. i was only out the $35 for the part, countless hours tuning trying to figure out the inconsistent fueling issues over the time i was using it and and all the seals i had to replace while diagnosing other parts looking for what could be causing my fueling issues

What is the air nozzle for on the side

i have a bypass12-887 i have a vacumm port outlet on it do that line have to be hook up

Is the return line the only one regulated or all three?

Great video! Quick question, why is one side the inlet and the other an outlet? Can’t both left and right be return lines to support a parallel setup? I thought a fuel line from the tank doesn’t need to go to a fuel pressure regulator but rather to the rails directly and then the return feed from the rails goes to the regulator. Thanks

That’s pretty decent idk how it would work on a high hp car but for a modest build I think it would work.

Ever heard of a adjustable wrench.? Nice job tho informative helpful video thanks.

Can I block off the return because I have a return less L's intake

Great video. Is factory car using a return system?

These aeromotive style regulators are supposed to operate 30-70PSI… looks decent

I though AN is a metric size?

Has anyone that's used this got it to go lower to like carburated pressures? Like 4 to 7?

great video, it was help full.

Metric tools are the go....

You look great thanks for video 👌

Great video 👍 quick question I’m looking for one but I need it to be for EFI AND HAVE 40-60psi? How’s has it held up? Thank you!!

Shane Whalley how is it now after 2 years? i am adding injection my 2 stroke trabant :D

what size fpr fittings?

Is the brand epman

Hey there! I have a cheap aftermarket fuel regulator that looks similar to that one you have and I was wondering if I could attach a pressure gauge to it and if so, how would I go about it! It’s on a v8 engine. Thanks in advance!

Is it still holding up?

Is that a return style or bypass pressure regulator? Also does it go down to low pressure for carb applications?

how to you hook this up?

Do you think that this spring kit work in this regulator? If so I could use this regulator on a Big Block Chevy, carbed engine, with a Walbrough 450 fuel pump. Then when I go LS just change the spring. Thanks Eric Universal Bypass Regulator Spring Kit $17.23 P/N 13701 Spring Kit for Universal Bypass Regulator Includes both High Pressure and Low Pressure Springs Fits only Aeromotive Regulators including the following: P/N 13301 and P/N 13351.

Mine has psi & mp whats mp mean?

I have a question How did you run your fuel lines to the frp? Fuel pump.. inlet to fpr... outlet from fpr to fuel rail ?

Hey dude, quick question and please excuse my ignorance... You mentioned a vacuum connection, is this turbo related? Can these be fitted to a non turbo engine and if so, where would you connect the vacuum? I'm looking to get better throttle response from my mk4 golf /rabbit 1.6 efi... Any suggestions?

You said the lowest was 30 PSI so would it be able to use this on a carbureted application

Great vid bro! Ordered mine. Btw is it still holding up?

Did the eBay kit include the AN adapter fitting to convert the factory fuel rail return outlet?

Sorry to bother, great video. Can I get the inlet an exit the wrong way round. If so, how do you know?

Did you notice how long it takes for fuel pressure to drop to 0 after shutting car off? I have this style regulator on my DSM and as soon as I shut the car or pump off, pressure goes from 43 psi to 0 right away. ON some forums im reading that the cause is that seat for the ball in the center. One guy machined it much smoother and says it holds pressure for a few HOURS. When I took mine apart, the seat looked jagged and even had some paint on parts of it.

Does it hold pressure though?? If it doesn't hold pressure it will cause hydro-locking in the fuel system.

Thats cute it looks alil like a waste gate

So how did it work? Do you have the other video?

i have h22 engine what is the correct psi for fuel pressure?

I noticed you left the ignition on 😅

You got a link to it?

If your not running boost do you just not use the vacuum port?

Hey I was wondering if this could work on any car with a fuel regulator? My fuel regulator is gone bad and was wondering if I should just buy an aftermarket one like this or would it pointless for someone not running boost?

E85 capable ?

Got a link

The body's work so I just find a name brand and order a rebuild for the internals, aeromotive ect

I guess the fittings are metric. Because the rest of the world is metric and Asia too where this FPR is made. Or in the other US Source, Mexico is metric too. Rgds from the precise metric heaven Germany.

So an increased manifold pressure of +10 PSI resulted in a fuel pressure increase of 12 PSI. That's not enough. Yes, your computer will attempt to compensate in closed loop to fix this (up to 25% before throwing an engine code). However, in open loop, you will be lean! A 10 PSI increase in fuel pressure will require a fuel flow increase of 66%! (This is assuming that normal operation takes place at 14.7 PSI (atmospheric pressure at sea-level). To get that increase, your fuel pressure would have to rise by about 100%. Or about 100 PSI since you started at 50PSI. The fuel pressure relationship for flow across an orifice is 1/square root of two (or 0.707). Which means that your increased fuel pressure here is 12/50 * .707 = .17 (or 17%). You are not even in the BALL PARK! Pretty risky to say the least. Hopefully your computer doesn't go open loop often. The only thing you proved is that this regulator is ideal for blowing up your engine! You need larger injectors (larger diameter orifice) as well as this woefully inadequate FPR to compensate. Chemical Engineer.

Change out the diaphragm to an aeromotive one and I should be great

Herko makes one for a few dollars more.

…every 1 AN # is 1/16 of an inch...so -6 AN = 6/16 which reduces to a 3/4 open end wrench, not an 11/16

Only thing that matters is the diaphragm, from 35 bucks to 400 bucks they all use the same shit.

Run this for 2 years with all included no bother at all

it must have been real painful for you to do your ears like that...god bless you my brother it hurts even for me to see it...

did U said U were test fmu

What do you expect for 35 dollars .

Should adjust to 0 pressure.

You get what you pay for, right?.

What's up with your ears?