This is a great timber framing book. goo.gl/dQmpTv

Loving the timber framing! Bought some gear through wranglermart today, both of the Japanese pull saws, the sharpening guide, the Stanley marking knife , and the 4 in 1 Stanley rasp.I have had my great grand fathers, tool box since I was 20 years old. I'm 42 now. I opened it up , dusted everything off, and am restoring the hand planes 2 Stanley 4.5's (one made in Canada, one from the US) rasps, files, bit and braces with a few Irwin bits, I bought a spoke shave, a draw knife , a beautiful carving knife and chisel set . Thanks so much to the Wranglerstar family for the inspiration! I will send pics of my accomplishments. I was in an accident A little over 2 years ago, I broke both legs and an arm, I was very active before the accident and have almost lost everything, including my little homestead. Your videos helped my sanity along the way. I have had 2 major surgeries , and one more to go. But have tried to keep the faith through it all. I am re-learning how to use my body again as My limbs are full of metal and work differently now. I am looking forward to at least setting up a woodshop in the future and becoming a craftsman. Keep up the good work. Some of us look forward to your "Movies" more than you know.

Cody, Really enjoying these videos. I like the style switch up every now and again. Thanks for the tips! Brad

I love these little nuggets of wisdom you give out in these videos. These things are never written down, but passed down from master to apprentice, father to son. Thankyou mate, all the way from the UK, thankyou.

That template is amazing! I had that exact newbie struggle (tenons bumped up in the middle) on my workbench build.

great advice thanks Cody. I'm really looking forward to this timber framing series. The hole process is so interesting to me. Thanks for all the fantastic content looking forward to more great videos in the future

Great tip. I built some modified split top Roubo saw benches with timber framing techniques recently and this would have been a lifesaver. Of course having a timber framing slick would have been great too. In time maybe. Great series Cody. Keep up the good work.

Brother, over the years it's sure been good to be able to come to this channel for input, instruction, and clear guidance on a variety if things. I can't thank you enough. All the best to you and yours, Wulfy

When my dad and I used these on our build, we also made the part above the "mortice" on the template the same height as the shoulder so we could ensure that was the right size using the template too

Hey just a note to research. Make sure you offset your drill holes for the dowel pins so it pulls the joint tight. It's very important to get those century old " tight" timber joints.

Fantastic tip Cody, I have always failed on creating good mortice and tenon joints. Going out now to make a few of the template/guides. I guess the same could be applied to the mortice by making the appropriate tenon template.

You do such wonderful timber framing, we have watched timber frame experts, and we can't believe that you have never taken a course, a natural talent. We'll be watching, thanks for sharing.Blessings! !!!!!

It's amazing how something so simple can save you time.Thanks for sharing your knowledge Cody I really enjoy your videos.

A great little series within the channel. Always good stuff.

I just built a set of timber frame saw horses a few months ago. Basically the exact same design. So it was really cool seeing you make a set too. Love having them in my shop and i work on them everyday.

Great video, thanks for the amazing tip on timber framing! Love all your videos, keep up the great work!

keep up the old school type videos cody. the work shop stuff, the wood stuff, the homestead stuff. Glad to see you going back to your roots. that's why a lot of us came here.

Appreciate the pro tip, thanks for sharing and keep the series coming! How is the garden coming along?

All of your timber framing videos have been my absolute favorite content on your channel.

I like when you describe what you are doing. It's like a how to video. But sometimes it's nice to just watch you work and see the piece come together. With the great music choices it is very relaxing to watch.

Always interesting to watch your videos Cody, great job!

Great tip WS. Very much enjoying this series! Cheers!

Thansk for sharing your knowledge Cody. Blessings from Norway

Fantastic idea. Thanks for sharing!

Good one and yes, the middle of the tenon isn't easy to cut precisely. I really like the fit up gauges WS, thanks for the tip. Timber framing is really an elegant way to join wood.

Excellent tip! Thanks for sharing it.

Great tip! As I am not actively doing this, yet, I appreciate these tips as I start looking into woodworking as well. (Wife says I need to finish with the current hobbies before I move on to learning a new one. :D )

Love your woodworking videos!! That is originally what brought me to your youtube channel.

good tip, at my timber framing shop, we've riveted 2 old framing squares together into tenon gauges, same principle. and coincidentally the framing square is used again as a mortise gauge. simple and pretty darned accurate

yes these timber frameing videos are really inspiring me to do some wood working I am blessed with lots of timber my father has cut over the years I just gotta get some tools

Hi Cody. I really like your video series, which is excellent and most relaxing. I learnt my timber framing in the UK, where 'scribe rule' is more common than in the US (where line, level & plumb is the order of the day!). We use a 'tenon checker' in much the same way as you. A difference I was taught though (by the great Joe Thompson, Carpenter in Residence at the Weald & Downland Museum) was the principles of the 'crafty carpenter': ensuring you incorporate a 'penny gap' (either by enlarging the mortices slightly, or reducing the tenons slightly [but not both]) gives you a much easier time when it comes to assembly of the frame. Of course, as others have eluded to here, we also favour drawboring to make the joints tight when pegging. After drilling the hole through, we assemble the joint, squared it up, & prick out the tenon with the tip of the augur. After that we mark the width of a £1 coin to the shoulder, and a 1 penny coin to the throat to give the position of the tenon hole for the drawbore.

I love the timber framing, Thank You!

Awesome tip! Thanks for sharing!

Nice short description of Timber Framing. Great idea on the test mortise jig.

Nice tip for those who are learning or trying timber framing. It would work well on smaller furniture that was done with mortise and tenon also.

I do enjoy watching you work. It's relaxing and better than tv

wish I could right now follow along making my own but laying here recovering from my 4th back surgery last Monday 4-24-17, and enjoying having something good watch (your videos)

Thanks for this series of videos. I would like to build a timber frame table in the future!!!

Great tip Cody thanks but If I was to try and practice doing these would it be better to start with a big one like in this video or start with much smaller ones

Thank you! Great video per usual!

Love simple solutions. Easy to make and it's only plywood, so if it wears down, just make another one. Great tip!

I'm liking the timber framing videos keep them coming Cody!

Outstanding video full of information and examples and admits to be being self taught .No ridiculous music ,no old timey leather apron with wide trouser suspenders where you look like an extra from the Waltons,just basic woodworking and confidently explained .Q: Is the small recess necessary that the tenon fits into on the mortice beam

Thanks for sharing Cody.

Awesome tip Cody, thanks!

Another great video,you've got some skills. I live in a French timber framed house built in 18th century, each beam has its own number(roman numerals) or symbol discretly carved into it.

hey cody thank you for the tip love the vids keep up the good work

Great tip! Thank you!!

Thanks for your videos You are a Great craftsman

Great tip, Cody. I use one for dowels, but never even thought of it for tenons. THANKS>

Great tip. Do you use something like a gauge block to verify the mortises?

Fantastic tip, thanks!

You can also put some graphite from your carpenter pencil on the edge of your square and then rub it over the tennon. The graphite will only deposit on the high spot, then pare off the graphite spot and repeat until no high spots and it’s flat and square

Knowledge without experience is just information! Thank You Wrangler family! You are helping me build my barns. God's blessing praised upon you and your family! Teach a man to fish, he eats for a lifetime! Blessings to the teachers of the world!

Hiya Cody, will you use an offset peg, when you peg the joint? Maybe called a draw peg? I saw Mr Sellers doing it on one of his vids.

Fantastic series Mr. W

Great series!

yet another GREAT video KEEP THEM COMING

Straight forward idea, a sort of standardized way to check tendon widths, and even allow a sight check of the entire surface of the tendon cheeks for straightness and angles. Thanks for the heads up on a great idea.

love the timber framing.

Short and sweet! Great video

Excellent idea!

Thanks for the tip, Cody!

Thanks for the vid Cody

Great tips Cody!

The gauge is a great idea. Thanks for sharing.

I LOVE THIS SERIES!

Before I watched this video, I wanted to tell you that I watched all your videos on Ram Pumps and in some of them you reminded us all to remember to click the thumbs up and you said you got some flack for doing so. I'm glad you remind us to click because I forget to sometimes and I don't think it is a bad idea for you to remind us because as you are signing off my mind is still reeling with such good info and entertainment so don't feel bad about putting in a reminder. Thanks.

awesome tip, thank you.

Vous faite de beaux vidéo et beaux projets aussi , continuez ... merci

nice tip. thanks for sharing

Are you going to design a mortise go and no go jig ?

great tip! thank you!

Fantastic advice for a novice. Thanks from the UK.

Great videos Cody!

I work big oak timber frames in UK. Generally we aim for a more loosely fitting tenon and mortice joint than that, not sloppy but not that tight either, oak is heavy stuff so handling time is massive if its all murder tight. From x ray images I've seen of joints from timber frames that are 500 years old the tenons were loose as well, friction on the shoulder of the joint caused from the draw on the peg was what held it together.

Do you plan to offset holes in the tennon like Paul Sellers and others describe? Makes a super snug joint. The direction you offset matters. Keep up the good work.

Thank you for the tip. Knowledge is power as they say. :)

Thank you for sharing

Just purchased the two books you recommended.

Great tip thanks

Awesome tip Cody!

good trick. thanks Cody

I like the simple format of "Ten-Minute Timber-Framing" and the music fits it perfectly! Can you add the credits for all of the music segments? Thanks and keep it up!

Excellent tip love your work :-)

Very helpful tool! It might also make sense to make it out of sheet metal. The plywood will wear over time and your mortising gauge will get wider making it less precise.

That looks awesome 👍 job

Such a great idea

Good Tip cody. I knew it already but had forgotten. Thanks for the reminder. We so often forget the simple things in life :/

Does the grain orientation of a peg matter?

You buy templates like those ready made out of steel. I'm sorry I don't know wear but somebody makes them. I really enjoy you l shows. keep it up.

Great tip Cody

Great tip!

Cody on smaller tenon you can use the Stanley # 71 Router Plane, to trim a tenon. Jack.

Appreciate the tip!!!

Go/no-go gauge. Good idea. Square for the mortise and your good to go! Beautiful end music.

Great Tip!!

keep up the good work Cody

awesome tip!

Hi Cody, very cool but simple trick.