ANOTHER TIP. Ask if the bike is salvaged. This never happened to me before until yesterday ! I gave them the money and then they gave me the pink slip, in which I read in the top right corner “SALVAGED”. I got such a good deal on it I didn’t flip out but I still felt they were dishonest by not sharing that information. So even though it might be a 1 in a 100 chance, Trust me. It’ll help paint a picture. Now I have to spend 15 bucks on a VIN report lol.

I also check the kick starter as they get some wear and you can tell if they say it has few hours but has been kicked heaps.

Excellent video, great information.

I would suggest going for a fual injected dirtbike as carburetored bikes require lot more time. But if you like good sound, Carburetor bike is for you

Does anyone use a compression meter? After an external visual inspection: my first thing would be to have a compression gauge with me, and the acceptable psi # for the motor.

0:35 if the parts dont last long, why are the so expensive? and wdym last long? Like if a person rides pro? or if a person rides like 5 hrs a week?

I should of watched this beifre buying my bike I bought on of fb payed 450 for a 140cc China pitbike big wheel very hard to start he said the carb needs tuning its had a top.end rebuild and its very hard to.kick it over too

Great tips

Im having a small problem with my KTM 525sx from 2004. It starts rather easy when cold (1 to 5 kicks) depending how i kick. It runs smooth and good on the idle, No change at all. But after it gets warmer and it's ready to go full on the throttle, When i twist the throttle it bogs on low rpm's. And when i ride it long enough (Maybe 30 minutes) and shut it off, It becomes really hard to kick-start it. Nearly impossible i would say. Problems that i have fixed. 1: Fine-tuned the acceleration pump that squirts more gas into the engine. 2: Cleaned the carb and all the jets. 3: Fine-tuned the mixture screw below the carb and gave it a little more rich mixture then before (2 turns out). Problems that i found. 1: The pilot/idle jet has a crack in it from the top, And goes down maybe 2-3mm down the jet. 2: The owner before me didn't oil the air filter, So it runs dry and could maybe get too much air in. Could these two remaining problems be the main cause why it bogs on low rpm's? Btw now it has the original idle/pilot jet size 45. I can go higher by 48, 50, 52 and 55. Please help me, It would mean alot because it's a pay in the ass having that annoying bog all the time. Cheers!

just purchased a 2022 RM85 for my son VIA FB marketplace and forgot to check the oil drain plug not thinking anything. The guy put some sort of epoxy crap all over the drain bolt plug and I cannot get it off. It leaks oil through this epoxy so I bet he cracked it or cross threaded it. Either way a very bad move to make by putting epoxy on it and he hid it from me obviously.

tysm

I need a 110 on the cheap that runs well from a Japanese brand

Hello I am trying to buy a 2001 Yamaha yz426 the seller is telling me that the bike runs and drives but can’t downshift when the bike is turned on he can only downshift when off what can be the problem

Hay man great video, what year was that Yamaha in the video?

Was that a decompression level on top LH side of handle bar? I thought they done away with them in 2003? I remember years ago when I blew my 02 up I bought 03 cams and parts to get rid of it.

I should have been this thorough before getting married

I'm looking to buy Yamaha wr250f between year 2016 and 2020. Is there a year model I should rather avoid or take a closer look at?

I’m looking to trade my 09 yz85 to a 04 yz250f with $100 boot on my end how do you feel about that

Now how can I get a used mottorbike