Perfect. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!

I believe they are always required (any boat with a permanent tank) from the boat manufacturer. I've talked to some mechanics who don't like them as they can cause fuel flow issues as they corrode, but just one of those things to keep an eye on and replace somewhat regularly, especially if the boat sits a long time or for multiple seasons unused.

Great! I’ve got videos on fuel gauges and full fuel system hook ups too!

@@tomspontoons thank you good sir i will check check um out!!

Happy to help! Hopefully they answered any other questions you had.

Happy it was helpful! Thanks for watching

Yep, on a boat it tends to always need something and just when one thing is fixed another decides to break! Start with the float/sending unit. It could also be the gauge. To test, after you replace the sending unit before you put it back into the tank, move the float by hand slowly through its full range of motion a few times while watching the gauge. If the gauge still stops at a quarter tank then you know the gauge is the issue....worst case you replaced a sending unit that didn't necessarily need to be replaced. We can just call that preventative maintenance.

@@tomspontoons that's how I think! Been rebuilding as much as I can as a KZfaq certified mechanic. I know it's not the gauge because when I flip the switch to the other tank, I get an accurate reading on the same gauge 🤠

I’ve definitely seen them there they’re literally falling apart! Glad you’re getting yours fixed up!

I'm not sure how that works on petroleum versus natural gas and propane? But definitely worth looking into! The mechanics I used to work with used a variety of sealants, most common was pipe dope.

I only use Scepter brand for removable red tanks. They’ve been outstanding for me over the years!

Good idea!

I’ve never seen it be an issue in the boats I’ve worked on that are in freshwater. It’s common for water/fuel separators too where the filter part is cast aluminum and the fitting is brass. In saltwater is seems like all those reactions happen exponentially faster

I mean, I would call that perfect timing!!

I'm not familiar with that exact tank. From what I've researched, the one thing that ruins these older permanent tanks is stripped out or seized up fittings. Once in a while we try to rebuild them but have no choice but to start over with a new tank.

Someone may have started to work on the sending unit and left it before tightening things back down. Either way, I am not sure on the exact torque specs, but I secure them snuggly, with a carefulness not to overtighten or strip those molded in threads. Once the gasket is compressed slightly it should be good to go for keeping water out and fuel in.

Most of the new four stroke outboards are setup to run on 5/16" fuel lines. I haven't tackled that so I would first reach out to Mercury's customer service or a servicing dealer to make sure it won't void any warranties.

In that case 5/16 be just fine lol. Good point :) @@tomspontoons

@@bthompson101202 My thought too!

Unfortunately I've never seen the pick up fitting replaced, nor the parts to do so. I've always assumed that it's molded into the tank in some way shape or form. When a tank gets to that point I feel like it's probably time to replace the whole unit. You could dig around some more to find more info (like calling Moeller), but I've never seen that done before.

@tomspontoons The tank holds fuel to the brim. No holes in tank. Just think water sat at some point around the top of tank. There is a video of a guy replacing pick up fitting on a key largo. Just wanted to see if you can do same job in future vid but more in detail kinda how this vid was.

I will definitely make that video in detail if I ever get to tackle the task! Luckily on pontoons we can easily remove the whole tank…in many boats with permanent tanks there’s no option to do so…at least not easily!

Happy to help! Thanks for watching!!

To be honest I haven’t done a whole lot of work with the new systems other than pulling them apart and putting back together so that they remain conforming. The issue with the newer systems and tanks (even the portable red tanks) is usually the vent systems. The EPA requires serious pressure to build before venting the pressure build up out because gas vapors come out with the air and fumes. This has resulted in a lot of issues including fuel lines popping off of motors from pressure build ups and their garages getting gas sprayed everywhere. I’m not a pro on bypassing the new systems nor do I necessarily recommend it, but I know that the older systems that are still in use in high quantities had a simple fuel vent line straight from the tank out of the side of the boat through a fitting.

Thanks! We’ve got videos covering fuel gauges! Boat Fuel Gauge Wiring 101 - How To Wire Your Fuel Gauge kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jLqhadmitrHZk4U.html

Pontoon Boat Fuel Tank Installation - Fuel Tank & Fuel Gauge kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gs54jLl4q9qmgZ8.html

I know that transom tanks are the only way to achieve some open layouts, but I’ll always avoid them when possible because of the issues with water finding its way in over time. I’ve seen it where the fill is right down by the deck trim, attached to the tow bar, and attached to the back of the railing…just depends on your layout. DEFINITELY go with a water/fuel separator as part of your conversion!

Most new outboards even say they can run on up to 10% ethanol in the owners manual. I think the problem is that so many motors and fuel systems sit for extended periods of time between trips, in the off season, etc. They’re doing a better job to battle it on new products, but I will always try to play it safe when I can help it!

I’ve seen a mix of both to be honest. Some from the factory with and without a check valve. May be regulation in certain states or policy for some manufacturers. I haven’t dug deep into that though!

It really should have the check valve. It prevents siphoning from the tank if you undo a hose connection from a filter or something down the line.

@@paulbromell8018 I’ve talked to local mechanics who have recommended with an anti siphon and without. Seems like that’s always the case on marine topics. I just installed a new system recently with an anti siphon fitting, and usually do if the tank had one to begin with.

Correct, the tank was installed under the sundeck. You’d have to do some more research on that, but as far as I know the below deck tanks are not meant to be out in the sun and weather. I have never rigged a red tank with a dash gauge, nor have I seen it done. Not saying it’s impossible, I’d just have to do more research. Generally the larger red tanks have pretty reliable gauges built in…you’d have to peak over the back to check, but better than nothing and much less $$$

Great question! I think that because pontoon boats can typically fit a wide variety of fuel tank shapes and sizes there isn't the need for a custom aluminum tank. The price point for molded plastic tanks is usually better than something custom welded. By the time you have something in the 20 gallon range welded up and then add the fill, pick up, and sending unit I imagine you'd have spent $400+, but I could definitely be wrong especially if you're getting the buddy discount. I've seen 30 year old plastic tanks that are operating great. I usually see aluminum fuel tanks made custom for certain boat styles where they need an under-floor tank matching the hull angle, or a bow tank that has to fit in amongst framing and such. Not trying to keep you from going that route, but just looking at all angles for the majority of folks out there!

@@tomspontoons i know its post covid, but i just got a quote for an aluminium tank replacement for my 1720 Key West and it was $710 with no sender or anything lol found a moeller tank that will fit and went with that. Moeller tank is a 10 week backorder and the aluminium tank would take 30 days and shipping was $200!! Crazy times.

@@dcvedad hopefully you get the Moeller even sooner. They’ve been getting caught up it seems. The price of aluminum has skyrocketed, and labor/welding/fabrication has seen huge increases in prices due to fewer and fewer people being capable of doing the work! You’ll be happy with the easy install and quality of the Moeller!

Is he holding the large flat nut with a wrench while turning the pickup head? Unfortunately, Once in a while they’re just beyond salvaging if everything has seized up in the hardware. It happens to all of us.

Thanks Everette! If you’re able to remove the tank (not usually easy to do) then I would dump it and rinse it thoroughly, usually with fresh gas or another fuel friendly parts cleaner. Rinse, dump, repeat a few times. If you can’t get the tank out then you’ll want to just get as much of the old fuel out as possible, then I would personally top it off with a full tank of fresh rec gas and I’d add a fuel additive like Seafoam. Replace the fuel line from the tank to the motor FOR SURE, as that old gas has been sitting in there too and can potentially rot the inside of the fuel line sending debris to the motor.

Check the description, there should be links there!! Thanks for watching!!

Thanks for watching! Depending how old it is I will sometimes run it through my older truck as he doesn’t seem to mind. Otherwise reach out to local auto parts stores or marinas, some of them have a place for you to dump it for free.

Thank you!! And thanks for watching!

Hey Ben! Unfortunately I would save the only sure way to remedy that issue is to pull the tank and get all of the shards out. If you don't want to undertake that then make sure you have a filter in-line to catch them and/or make sure there is a screen covering your new pick up. Additionally, you could run the new pick up a little higher off the bottom of the tank to prevent picking up those pieces...as long as you remember that empty on the gauge might be different for your setup!

@@tomspontoons Thanks Tom, I went ahead and pulled the tank, gave it a very thorough cleaning inside and out. Looks much better and for the peace of mind it is a must, glad I did it. I've got a 90hp evinrude on a Whaler Montauk, currently do not have a fuel-water seperator tho, not really a clever spot to put one.

@@benc1927 Good to hear!! Sometimes you have to install them directly to the transom on the inside of the boat in a situation like that with your Whaler. Won’t hurt anything sitting out in the sun as long as you don’t mind seeing it and drilling into the fiberglass. Use a good silicone around the screw/bolt holes and it’ll protect it.

@@tomspontoons Thanks for the tip, I did indeed do that when I re-screwed the 4 brackets down to the deck to hold the tank under seat. Once I replaced the fuel line I noticed it was quite wet at a 1" hole that was drilled in front of the tank to access the cable chase for the fuel line. No collar on the hole at all, I figured i'd use a hair dryer to dry it out for a bit and then just caulk it back up, but i'd think a brass/pastic collar to go in the hole would be best to prevent mroe water seeping in to that hole.

@@benc1927 glad it worked out. I see a lot of through floor fittings on boats from different manufacturers that are made out of plastic. Most of the time if the hole is where the wood can dry out it'll last a lot longer than you'd think before any rot happens. The worst rot on deck boards happens where the deck trim (aka rub rail) sits and the wood can't dry out on the edges.

I have no idea what the second plate would be used for to be honest. I've only ever worked on tanks with a single sending unit. Sorry I can't offer more information!

@@tomspontoons Yeah I don't see this on any other tanks, I didn't know if it was some sort of a cleanout, it has 7 mounting holes and a rubber gasket, everything looks brand new so I'm not going to worry about it!

Did the barb fitting break off into the pickup head? Or did the pick up head break off in the large hex nut part?

I have an issue where my pickup tube threads were so corroded I had to use all different kinds of leverage to get it loose now the big nut is stripped on it and the pickup tube is still stuck, any suggestions? Essentially the same as @86steelerfan

Large hex nut.

@@Krakenstew I'll have to do some research to see if that specific part is replaceable. If it's a Moeller tank I'd take a look at their website so see if they offer a replacement. Unfortunately, I'd probably end up ordering a new tank at that point.

@@86steelerfan I'm going to dig into this topic more and report back.

Thanks for subscribing and watching our channel! Lots of info there, but so hard to know without seeing the system and the details. Are you having issues with how the motor is running? What engine? When you say slow to fill, are you referring to adding fuel to the tank? Or getting fuel to the motor from the tank? Hopefully I can be more help knowing those items. Keep in mind I'm not a marine mechanic by trade, but I'll do my best. I have been in the marine industry long enough to know when it's time to refer someone on to a dealer, so I promise I'll be honest with you if it's outside my wheelhouse!

Wow thanks for the fast reply. Was for sure I’d be waiting a few months haha. Anyways, 2015 yamaha 200. 100ish hours. Runs great. No issues with getting fuel while running and yes, talking about when fueling up at the marina. So I learned about the fuel pick up or whatever it’s called when I ran out of fuel @1/4 tank. I did everything from squeezing the fuel Primer, to taking the cap off and letting air in. So I got towed to the dock and topped off at like 49 gallons on a 63 gallon tank. I only let that happen once because I just assumed before we bought the boat it sat for a long time, maybe with ethanol, and that the stick inside there is bad and maybe got eaten up at a certain point to where it couldn’t suck up the remainder of the fuel. This is a moeller fuel tank and the vent seems to run from one side of the tank near port stern (maybe like 6 inches from the very back of the fuel tank) to the right side of the fuel tank at about the same distance from the back of the fuel tank, (maybe a couple inches forward) and by back I mean part that is closest to the motor. And then the main vent line goes in through the deck and then to little vent cap that is mounted outside the boat. We completely removed the charcoal vent canister. We found out it was for epa regulations and we live in Florida and they either just dont give a shit or check that around here. So we connected the vent lines so that the vent goes straight out of the boat but still bubbled up and slow fueling. We may end up being forced to take the motor off to get to the fuel tank. Because with it being 63 gallons, I’m sure it goes in there pretty far.

I’ve got 1600 subscribers…not 16,000, so I keep up on it on the regular (hopefully I’ll get to 16k and will still respond quickly!!!). Is this a tritoon with the tank in the center log, or standard pontoon? Do you fill through a spout in the transom or is it on the side through the railing? I’ve never heard of a filling issue with a vertical fill spout in a transom mount tank. I have to fill slow on the tritoon we just built or it’ll overflow, but that’s something I just need to fix by shortening the fill hose slightly to get more angle. Maybe that’s something to look at too.

Thanks so much, and thanks for watching!!

Good ole Dawn dish soap and a scrub brush!! Cover any hoses or inlets to make sure no water gets in.

I will work on that today! I don’t always install the exact same brands or items, but I’ll link some that I use often and like!

Added!

The other thing to check is your vent to make sure that's not being restricted. I try to keep things as factory as possible when it comes to fuel systems, so I'd hate to take the screen off (I've never seen that be the issue to be honest). If it's getting clogged that frequently then I think it's time for the tank to get a good cleaning out!

@@tomspontoons thanks for the quick response, vent is good I cleaned out and air is flowing to tank. My toon is on lift with no trailer so looking for an alternative to cleaning entire tank right now. Hoping add water separator, run fuel out of tank without pick up screen and change the water separator filter each tank of gas. At some point I can clean tank but hoping this keeps me on water. Today I am going to hook up external tank to verify its the pick up clogging.

@@user-xk5zb7fn9xyou’re on the right track for your situation. I would definitely run it on a remote tank if possible to rule out other stuff. Best of luck!!

@@tomspontoons argh, external fuel tank same thing, next up new primer bulb.

@@user-xk5zb7fn9x hope that fixes it!! You’re starting with the right stuff…the simple things!