Thanks for your feedback, Joshua. Enjoy your new saw!

Awesome Sharon, thanks! Enjoy your new table saw.

My pleasure, Rich. Thanks for watching.

Glad to hear that it's working well. Hopefully they can get that manual updated.

Decisions, decisions. 😀 Good luck with your purchase, whichever way you go.

Hi Ed, yep, it’s very easy to move. The concern you raise is a good one. It didn’t seem to stress the fence rails so I wouldn’t hesitate to do it. If the rail fasteners are loose you will have a problem but otherwise I think it’s fine. But that’s my perspective and Laguna engineers might feel differently. On the F1 if you lifted by the wing it would still stress the rails, although not as much.

Thanks, Frank. I don't have a "real" table saw sled, but I keep thinking about getting or making one. I currently use a VERY simple panel sled, which does most of what I need. For a real sled, I'd be somewhat tempted to get this one, although it's kinda spendy: amzn.to/2RExtly. For a shopmade option, I kinda like Laney's design: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y62Uh7hquNqRXYU.html . Hope you like the saw. Let me know what you think of it.

Hi Jack, main difference is features includes Euro fence, integrated wheels, cast iron wings, more power. Neither of these saws would be good for what you are describing. You don't want to re-install the wings on either of these saws each time you use it. Way too much hassle. If you are cramped on space, the F1 has a smaller footprint due to the shorter fence rails. But, if you don't have a room for the F1 with the wings installed, I'd look at getting a portable saw that you can hang on the wall for space savings. That wouldn't be in the same class of saw as either of these units, but you would be much better off doing this than having to reinstall wings.

Hi Dennis, that’s a great idea and I can’t think of any reason why you would not love it. You could store a lot under there.

Thank you. If the saw will primarily remain stationary, and you can deal with the price uplift, I believe that the F2 is a better value. Cast iron wings and built in wheels are a nice upgrade, plus an upgraded trunion design and motor. And also, the fence on the F1 is good quality, but I LOVE the Euro fence design on the F2.

Hi Faris, Sure. F1 is essentially a contractor's saw. Somewhat portable, but not as portable as an actual portable table saw. Gives you the power of a shop saw with enough portability to move it from site to site. The F2 is a stationary saw. The added weight of cast iron wings makes it so that you will want to leave it in one place. The motor is an upgrade in power and quality. The fence is an upgrade in that it gives you the Euro style capabilities that I demonstrated in the video. The F3 is a true cabinet saw. 3 HP, 220 volt power, full cast iron trunnion. Much heavier machine, suitable for a production cabinet shop. For contractors, the F1 is probably the right saw. For most small shop hobbyist woodworkers, the F2 is likely in the sweet spot. Professionals will likely opt for the F3 for the upgraded performance.

This has been a problem for table saws of this style, but I believe that the heavy ribbing on the underside of the table should prevent it. That said, I won't have a chance to test this over time. The F1 has been around a long time, and nothing about the new design should affect this aspect, so I'd suggest checking around on some forums (Lumberjocks, etc.) to see if anyone has had problems with this. If the problem exists, you can bet that people will be talking about it online. Also worth checking out the Laguna user group page on FB for this type of stuff. Very vocal group there as well.

Hi there, and thanks for watching. I'm running an Oneida cyclone, 5 HP. I can't remember if that's what I was running when I made the F1 video. I switch it up a lot because I like testing out different dust collection systems. Cheers, Paul

I believe that the knob on the front of the hand wheel locks the tilt into position.

Awesome Mike. What was the deciding factor for you? Let me know what you think of the saw. Cheer, Paul

@@ToolMetrix your video was helpful for sure. Also the price point for a saw like this with the features is great. I'll definitely let you know what I think.

Hi John, I got one of those for my Dad a few years back, unfortunately before I was on KZfaq so I didn’t make a video. It’s a nice saw. They are famously a royal pain to setup and my experience was no exception. They have decent power but not as much power as the Laguna F1, as far as my dad’s saw anyway. His might have a problem though. After I set it up it ran poorly. Like almost no power. A 3/4” pine board would stop it in its tracks. After spending four frustrating hours setting it up I wasn’t sure how I would deal with this situation so I took a break for lunch and I left the saw running the whole time. When I returned to the saw 30 minutes later and made some cuts it worked fine and has ever since. But I don’t know if the power that it has today is as much as it should have. It’s certainly adequate though. I’d say that the design is similar to the F1 but the build quality is generally lower. But for it’s price it’s a very nice saw in my opinion. They sold that saw for years at $550 and I always felt that they could have gotten more. I noticed recently that they’ve raised it to $750 around here which seems like the right price point for the saw.

I had problems with the Ridgid table saws I went through. You can’t complain about the price of the r4512, so I completely agree with Tool metrix. Also yes, setting up those cheaper cast iron saws ended up not being worth the hassle, headache and still the lack of performance, at least in my own case that is. A friend of mine got the cheaper delta saw, the one at Lowes, and it was a pain to get running close to true as well. When you at least get up into the low 1000$ range, although you’re not stepping up to a high end professional performance machine, you are definitely stepping well into a higher level than those more affordable ones. So at around 750$, if you can just scrounge another 300-400$, you’d be so glad that you did for what you’ll get. I ended up with Jet’s comparable saw to this laguna and after some fussing, it runs and cuts excellent. In the end, whatever one can afford, that gets you into the world of table saws is all that matters though. Good luck. Becoming a table saw owner was actually a significant point in my life, in fact changing my life and I think most saw users would also agree.

@@82camino96 Thanks for your great commentary on this. In particular I love this part of your comment: "Becoming a table saw owner was actually a significant point in my life, in fact changing my life ". I can't agree with you more. Although it was 23 years and 33 days ago for me (yes, it was that significant!) I remember the day like it was yesterday. I saved up and bought the best saw that I could afford, but even at that, it was not a very good saw. :) It was a direct drive and it was SO LOUD! But it had a cast iron top, and worked fine. I used it for about 6-7 years and built a lot of furniture with it. Your point about it changing your life was also true in my case. It opened up a whole new world to me, which I've been heavily immersed in ever since. Cheers!

Hi Charlie, I'd say it's decent 'out of the box', and it's really intended as an inexpensive "plug and play" setup for people who don't want to mess with it. The hose going to the shroud underneath the table lets you get better collection with less CFM compared to my older cabinet saw where I have a 6" pipe going to the back of the cabinet but it has to collect from the entire cabinet. There would be ways to improve it for sure. If I was going to set this saw up permanently in my shop I would run a 6" hard pipe and reduce using a 6" x 4" x 4" wye. I'd connect one branch of the wye to the back of the saw, and I'd run 4" flex from the other one ideally all the way to the blade guard, and reduce it right at that point to the 1.5" connection on the blade guard housing. If that proved to be too clunky, I would run 4" flex to point where the flex hose tethers to the fence, and tether the 4" hose at that point. Then I would eliminate half of the 1.5" flex and run that to the guard. I would also install three blast gates in the system. One gate on the 6" line to switch the air flow on and off on a regular basis, and the other two would be 4" gates on each trunk of the wye to optimize the balance of air flow between the two branches. I would find the right balance for those and just leave them open at that setting.

I don’t blame you! 😉

I don’t believe that a thin kerf blade would cause any problems. I didn’t try it but they sell a thin kerf riving knife so it seems that is part of the design. I don’t know why the overhead dust collection couldn’t be used with a zero clearance throat plate.

Thanks, Brian. The blade alignment to miter slots required a tweak. If I recall it was out of alignment by about .007", and I was able to get it down to about .001-.002". I think that I've made at least some adjustment on every table saw that I've ever set up. It's easier on the F2 and F3 but it's not that hard here. The main thing to be aware of is that there are three screws per trunion, rather than 2 which is more common. That's why I pointed it out in the video. Once you know where the screws are, it's pretty straightforward to tweak if you have to.

Thank you for the reply. Did the fence require any adjustment?

Thank you. Unfortunately I don't remember that. This jig allows you to rip as thin as you want with the guard in place: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/icpofq9-vrS1Zas.html . I use mine all the time.

Hi Sunny, yes it can. It requires this conversion kit. www.shop.lagunatools.com/F1_-_F2_conversion-kit-110v-to-220v

I don't have any personal experience with the DeWalt saw. That is a job-site saw, so not really a good comparison. If you require extreme portability, and the ability to hang the saw on your wall when not in use, that type of saw is a great option. I've used a Bosch job site saw and was impressed with what it could do. But if you want shop stability, cast iron top, ability to use a full width dado stack, large table size, etc., then F1 is a good option. If you are looking for a job site saw, then I'd suggest comparing the DeWalt to other options in that category. Unfortunately the comparable Bosch looks like it was discontinued. Shame, because that was a sweet saw. I believe that Ridgid has a decent one. If you want a saw that will be primarily located permanently in your shop, then I'd suggest doing comparisons against other saws in the F1 category such as SawStop, Delta, Ridgid, etc. In that category, I believe that the F1 delivers a lot of features at a good value point. The SawStop has the unique flesh sensing technology, so if your budget allows, that is a good option as well.

@@ToolMetrix Thanks for the quick reply! I think I would go for stability and large table size and the dado capability. So I'll narrow down my choices to the Ridgid, Delta, and the F1. Which one would you choose if you're on my shoes? Again, sorry for my ignorance on this kind of saws. Never used them before.

Hi Lee, sorry but I no longer have this saw in my shop.

@@ToolMetrix ok, thanks guess I'll try their website

Hi Klemm, unfortunately I’m not familiar with the Craftex so I’m not able to offer any comparisons.

Sorry I don’t recall how this is done. It’s been a while since this saw was in my shop.

It was extremely accurate during my testing. It would be worth asking a customer who use the saw every day how well it held Its accuracy. Seemed fine to me, but I only had it in my shop for a short period of time.

I didn’t notice it on the one that I had here. It could cause a cut quality problem. You should know after a few cuts. Put a good quality blade on the saw for a fair test.

I don't think that there's on board storage for the blade guard. I wouldn't put it away too far, just so that you're more inclined to reinstall it right away when you're done with your riving knife operation.

ToolMetrix I typically use it without the blade guard as I find it just gets in the way more often than not but maybe I'll try to use it more!

@@cb03cd I think that's true of a lot of people, including me with my Unisaw (but that guard is a PITA). At least use the riving knife, as that should prevent most kickback accidents. But if you can get into the habit of using the blade guard whenever possible, you'll be better off. I think they've done a good job of making it easier to install and remove on this saw, so that makes it more likely that people will use it.

ToolMetrix I always use a riving knife for sure. You are right about installation of the blade guard, its very easy. Really like the dust collection aspect as well! Only dislike I have so far is that the steel wings and other aluminum bits seem to scratch very easily.

I don’t remember on this saw specifically but typically On 1, there should be an adjustment bolt in the saw that allows you to re-zero the 90 and 45 settings. On 2 I’m not sure but you’ll have to try to see what it’s catching on. Maybe an inspection camera would help.

I didn’t measure that but they didn’t seem that thin.

Hi Gary, I hadn’t heard much about Harvey until recently and now they’re coming up all the time. I really need to get my hands on one some of their gear. Yep I’m starting to tear into the F2 tomorrow. It’s sitting in my shop now and I’m chomping at the bit to rip the crate off of it. 😀

@@ToolMetrix Buy the camera man a beer just don't ask him to hold the camera LOL

Great suggestion. Thank you for sharing it here!

Hi Maung, this F1 is the 2020 model with the improved dust collection.

Hi Todd, Thanks for your question. I do think the 1.5 HP motor is powerful enough. I think the motor upgrade on the F2 is more about a better quality motor than a more powerful one. I do think that the F2 is worth the upgrade for other reasons, however, particularly if you want to turn pro. I love the fence, cast iron wings and built-in wheels. For cabinetmaking the longer fence is a nice upgrade as well.

What your describing about the fence sounds like something is wrong with your setup. There shouldn't be any play, and you shouldn't need any locking mechanism on the rear of the fence. I'd suggest calling Laguna support to help you troubleshoot.

Blade to miter slot was off by about.010 if I recall correctly. Adjustment wasn’t difficult and within 15 -20 minutes I was able to get it to within about.001.

Yes. According to the F1 manual it can be wired to 220V as well. You have to swap out the switch, and the provide a part number for the 220V switch in the manual.

Thanks. I think the power difference is actually tough to notice. But the other upgrades make the F2 a great consideration IMO.

Hi Steve, Yes, I did a Deep Dive on the Dewalt job site saw: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/lbCJott7nZi0fXU.html. That's a sweet saw. In terms of the differences between the two, I think the Dewalt is a rock star for portability. Compact size, lightweight, and man the innovation they have added to that saw for extending functionality in a small footprint is remarkable. The F1 has a more robust architecture, more substantial trunnions, and I love the stability of cast iron. If you didn't already have a Dewalt, I'd make the recommendation like this. If you have to travel around with the saw at all, get a job site saw. The F1 is *sort of* portable, but I wouldn't want to move it very often. When you had to move it, it's a lot easier than moving a true cabinet saw, and you could do it by yourself but it wouldn't be much fun. If you are in tight quarters, and can't afford to dedicate a permanent footprint to a table saw, then a job site saw is the better choice because you can hang it on the wall or tuck it underneath a bench. But if you don't move the saw much, and can afford to dedicate some footprint to a saw, then a contractor's saw like the F1 is a better choice IMO because I believe it will hold its adjustments better, and I like the fence and large table space better. But, since you already have a DeWalt, if you are now in a situation where you can devote a spot in your shop and leave it permanently setup, it might be worth investing in setting up a workstation where you would build rear and side extensions for the Dewalt, and maximize what you can do with it. For you, moving to the F1 would be more of a horizontal move than an upgrade, with some advantages as noted. If you want an upgrade, and have the space for it, you'd probably be better to look at something in the class of the F2, where the cast iron wings, and fence upgrade would be more noteworthy upgrades.

@@ToolMetrix Thank you for your comprehensive analysis! As a frame of reference I am a hobbyist woodworker. When I bought the saw, I was still working and had 2 cars in the garage. I needed to move a car out so I could set up the table saw, so, to your point, I needed the mobility. I retired almost a year ago and ended up selling the car I commuted to work in so I have a dedicated space for woodworking. For the last several months I have been thinking of upgrading to a contractor saw but saw it as a “lateral move”, as you said. There is vibration on my saw and I totally get the more stable base this and other contractor saws provide. Just have been having difficulty justifying the move. Sounds like I need to look at more of a cabinet saw, as you said. I’ll take a look at the F2 per your suggestion. Thanks again for the thoughtful comments!

I was under the impression the Dewalt was more like 1600 or 1700W while the F1 is 1100W.

@@ToolMetrix Thanks for the comparison! Can you comment on the noise difference between the F1 and the Dewalt 7491? Is it considerably different?

It’s designed for lifting using the rails and they seem to be pretty rigid. I think the risk is more in throwing off the rail alignment if you move the saw a lot rather than damaging the rails themselves.

@@ToolMetrix okay than you for the reply. I am in the process of trying to make my decision on which table saw to buy. I've got the Grizzly and Laguna in mind. Some concerns with Laguna is the customer service. A lot of people online complaint about their customer service.

No problem. Which Grizzly are you looking at?

I’ve looked at a felder and they are really impressive. Extremely well made. I think they would be great for cabinet makers but cumbersome for furniture makers, which is more what I do. I also think that they require more space than I could devote to a saw.

…and price

Great point

I don’t remember. Sorry.

2020

Hi Ken, This is very simple. I had to do it when I removed the top from the saw. There's a locking collar and set screw at the end of the threaded rod that is used to set the zero stop. Loosen the set screw, adjust the locking collar until the 90 and 45s are aligned, and tighten it up. Part #s 84-85 on page 37 lagunatools.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/FUSION-1-Manual.pdf

@@ToolMetrix Well, that was easy enough. Adjustment complete. The owners manual which came with the saw is only 27 pages. I used the online manual at the Laguna Tools website. Most of the numbers are not very visible so clean glasses are required. I did find the schematic on page 27 of my booklet but the schematic is different. Parts 84 & 85 are not with the rod. It appears to me that the rod is not pictured. If anyone else has a problem with the manual which comes with the saw, go to lagunatools.com, find your saw and view the manual online. Paul, thank you very much.

@@ToolMetrix I went to your website and found the business email button. However, after completing the captcha, nothing further happened. I tried clicking the Submit button hoping an email form would appear but nothing. How can I contact you?

My web site contact form is broken. I need to re-do the entire site. For now, best way is at ToolMetrix on FaceBook or Instagram.

My pleasure, Ken. Glad it worked. Cheers, Paul

The F1 does not come with wheels. The F2 includes wheels as standard. Yes, you can get plenty of precision out of the F1. The F2 includes mobility, slight power advantage, nicer fence and cast iron wings. Overall nicer saw, but the F1 can do the job. I don't know if the F2 fence would work on the F1. You'd have to ask Laguna about that. Best of luck!

Second I believe. Not first.

3/4” I believe. Worth checking with Laguna.

@@ToolMetrix Thanks for the reply. I'm asking about blade diameter and whether or not it maxes out at 6" or 8" for the dado set.

Oh, gotcha. I don’t know about that. I’m not aware of a reason why it wouldn’t support an 8” stack but I didn’t test it.

Hi Rodney, there's a locking collar and set screw at the end of the threaded rod that is used to set the zero stop. Loosen the set screw, adjust the locking collar until the 90 and 45s are aligned, and tighten it up. Part #s 84-85 on page 37 lagunatools.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/FUSION-1-Manual.pdf

@@ToolMetrix Thank you. I found it on the prints but you answered another question. I wasnt sure if there was only one of them or if one adjusted both. Now I know. Again thanks for the quick answers. its a big help.

Awesome. My pleasure Rodney.

@@ToolMetrix Thanks again, the saw is up and running. Its not a heavy duty saw, it is however precise. I think overall its a good saw. In fact I only have one complaint..that owners manual may be the worst tech document and example of technical writing I have ever seen. My childhood erector set was better written.

I definitely see a lot of complaints online so I don’t think you’re alone in your opinion. I set up so many tools that I don’t end up using the manuals very much so I’m not a good judge. In fact a lot of times I get early versions of tools where the manual isn’t even available yet, and then nobody in customer service can help either.

5 hp probably pulling about 400-500 CFM at that duct. Long run plus 20 feet of 4” flex

@@ToolMetrix Thank you!

I do consider the F2 to be a worthwhile upgrade. I'm a big fan of cast iron wings and I like the trunion design better. If the saw will mainly remain in one spot, I would try to go with the F2. If you will be moving the saw from location to location on a regular basis, then the F1 would be a better move. If you want to save some money, the F1 is a very nice saw and I believe that you'll be happy with it.

ToolMetrix I’m deciding between this and the Grizzly 077. I was thinking about the Fusion 2, but my garage is all 20amp circuits and 25a is recommenced for the F2. As a beginning weekend worker whose garage is also my fishroom, space is at a premium and I will be moving the saw around to use it and the F1 is lighter. How difficult is it to adjust square on this saw? I’ve taken apart cars, so I’m handy around a toolbox. (And I have this video!) I also have Rockler store a few miles away and they sell it.

Hi Catfish, the F2 is very easy to adjust for square. The F1 isn’t quite as easy but it’s certainly doable. I’m not an electrician so I can’t give you a qualified override of the 25 amp recommendation but I ran it on a 20 amp circuit and didn’t have any problems. I pushed it pretty hard too. In my opinion there’s a lot of value for the upgrade cost. Wheel kit, better trunnions, major fence upgrade, cast iron wings. Moving it with the wheel kit is super easy.

Hi Jacob, that's a tough call. The saw that you have is a nice saw, and if it still rocks, my recommendation would be to use it for a while longer and save up for an upgrade to a cabinet saw if you have 220V power available. You could probably retrofit some better dust collection onto your saw pretty easily since it is a hybrid design (much harder on a contractor saw with the motor hanging out the rear). But, if you are ready to make a move now, I'd suggest looking that the F2 as I believe that will feel like more of an upgrade for you. With the F1 you would give up cast iron wings on your current saw for stamped steel wings on the F1. Unless you need to keep your saw light for portability I'd rather have the cast iron wings. And the fence on the F2 is a standout in its class.

Well, actually I did it on this saw. It was definitely trickier on the F1 than on the F2 and F3, but I got there. It’s possible that there was a design change between the one that they sent to me and the larger production run that makes this adjustment more difficult but I’m not aware of that.

I’m having exactly this problem, I loosened all the bolts so that they barely stay in and I still can’t move anything. Cuts at the moment are 1/8th out over a 10 inch crosscut.

Are you loosening six bolts? What is Laguna support saying?

Hi Mark, I believe that the black frame is steel and the silver colored plate that the work piece rides against is aluminum.

If you meant “big” instead of “bare” then I agree. The fence, dust collection and trunion design stand out in particular.

Good call, Moose!

Yep that’s more movement than I would want.

They shouldn't if you attach them securely. That would take a lot of force to do that.

Does it move When the saw is running? I never lock mine on my ancient unisaw.

Hi Gary, yes, the trunion is cast aluminum on the F1. The benefit for this saw is that is makes the saw lighter for those who move it to a job site, and also keeps the cost down for those who might be looking for a lower price tag on their saw. Moving up the product line, the F2 adds some cast iron to the trunion mechanism (where it attaches to the cabinet body), and the trunion on that saw is mounted to the cabinet. The F2 also has quite a bit of aluminum alloy in the trunion mechanism, but it is beefier than on the F1. The F3, as I understand it (I haven't removed the top on one yet; hopefully soon) uses a full heavy duty cast iron trunion mechanism. The two piece fence rail would definitely bother me if the split was to the right of the blade, but with it over on the left you would never pass over the split so I don't care. I would think that the reason for this would be shipping costs, as the package would have to be larger to accommodate the longer rail, or it would have to ship in a separate box. Either way that adds cost to the consumer that many people would rather not absorb.

Hi Dean, sorry to hear that you were disappointed with this saw. Thanks for sharing your experience here.

Paranoia will destroy ya …