Flowmaster all day. The true classic East Coast 5.0 sound. That's what I ran with an off-road H-pipe.

Subframe, headers.hpipe,gears 373s bye pass smog pump. Flowmaster 40

I was deep in the Mustang craze in the 80's and 90's. I ran a speed shop and most of my customers were 5.0 guys. The cars did not have issues with bending the body until you were running deep into the 11's with slicks, by the time you got into the 10's with no subframe connectors, I had seen rear quarter panels buckle at the top, but for a street car with street tires, they are completely useless and just add weight. Same for the strut tower brace, unless you are into corner carving it is just dead weight. Back then the basics were under drive pulley set (can create overheating and low charge on cars that are only driven inside cities light to light, not recommended for Auto trans), gears: 3.73 were most popular, long tube headers with full exhaust (shorty headers were not much better than factory ones), MAF upgrade if you had an 86-88, and finally you needed to deal with what made power which was airflow into the engine: throttle body, bigger MAF sensor, intake manifold, heads. cam etc... A 65/70mm throttle body and spacer was probably the most popular addition in the intake, but unless you port matched it to the intake, it was not doing much... Cars were never really fast until you basically changed the whole upper part of the engine from the heads up and the cam...

My '88 GT isn't a California model so it has the Speed Density rather than the MAF introduced for all Mustangs in 1989. SD can limit the performance of many performance add-ons. I installed a Kenne-Bell cold air system that really pushes the air, and it works quite well with SD. You mentioned honing the intake manifold for increased flow/HP - for several years, there was a company called Extrude Hone, an innovative system for expanding and polishing the ports and runners on the intakes. Together with a good port matching job, this process could add 60+ horsepower and was invisible to anyone looking under the hood.👍

People buying these 30-40+ year old Fox Bodies? Get your brakes & suspension up to snuff before anything. Aftermarket kmember with new control arms. New power steering rack with bump steer end links. Power steering pump and hoses. Fresh sway bar end link and bushings. Strut tower brace with room for any aftermarket intake or carb setup you might use later. I would go stock springs all around. Weld in Subframe connectors with seat brackets. New rear control arms with bushings. Rear shock tower brace. New struts shocks and ball joints all around. Rebuild the rear with whatever ratio, but make sure to replace axle bearings and seals as well. New brake calipers, pads, new brake fluid and master cylinder. New wheel hub/front rotors. Motor/trans mounts. It's important to do all these before anything else. Why? Because it's safer, it'll respond better to horsepower gains, modifications will install easier. For example. If your motor mounts are bad, installing aftermarket headers on the driver side will almost be impossible without denting the header. With a fresh motor mount, you shouldn't have to modify the header at all. One of many examples. Lowering springs are a bad idea. They don't hold up well over time. Stock springs work just fine.

Ditch the intake baffle should be #1… doesn’t cost anything and you gain 5-7 horsepower. Sounds better when you open it up.

You are exactly spot on. I did the same steps in the same order. Except when changing out the diff to 3:55 I junked the pathetic AOD and put in a World Class T-5. That in itself was a whole new driving experience. Thanks for your post.

I sure wish I knew about the subframe connectors a few decades ago! I loved my’89 LX Sport hatchback, and drove it (probably too) hard all over Arkansas and Louisiana. By 20k miles, there were multiple cracks in the unibody on both sides, which rather concerned this then-green mechanical engineer! Interesting video, thanks.

Great advice, I've done everything you've mentioned. I bought my Mustang back in 1991 brand new. Strawberry red LX coupe 5 speed. It now has 55,000 original miles and I'm in the process of making it completely stock again. I will keep the subframe connectors and strut tower brace for now. Thanks for the info and I will be subscribing to you for future updates.

Well you forgot some things that 75 amp alternator needs to go, cooling fans, and starter reduces weight less stress and is little better but the alternator helps keeps the 12 volt supply goes from like 12.8 to 14.1. Big difference I seen with these mods on my mild built 87 t top gt. But far as everything else is golden very informative

I put Flowmaster mufflers on my 1988 GT back in the 90's and it sounded awesome!

The best upgrades on any Fox including the Cobra would be a Head, Cam and Intake upgrade...

This stuff is right up my alley! Thank you.

Completely on point. Great job 👍

That was a really well put together summary

Thank you for this! I just got a '88 GT and I'm going yo use this video as a guide

Thanks from France for all this informations. I have already GT40 head cylinder from a Mercury mountaineer ready to instal so with the upper and lower intake.

Thanks that subframe thing is hilarious!! Wild West you nutcases!! From a Brit.. crazy dudes that’s why we love you

BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK IN THIS ORDER: Pull intake silencer, bump timing, high flow filter, under-drive pulleys, braided front brake lines, stiffer steering rack bushings, stiffer swaybar bushings, larger MAF body, caster-camber plates to max caster, and aluminum driveshaft. Anything else you do is a waste of money for tiny gains. Stock intake provides more torque than the Cobra intake so don't waste your money unless you're supercharging or changing to high flow heads. Stock headers are fine. Catbacks give you noise without any noticeable power gains and the drone becomes insane on the highway. Bigger throttle body does not provide noticeable power and will decrease low-end torque with stock heads. Also, don't install rear gears for $600 when you can buy a brand new Ford rearend with 3:55s, new bushings, new bearings and no gear noise for $800-$1000. With all that you're still slower than a new V6 Toyota Camry or Ecoboost Mustang around a track. The fox requires huge dollars to make it competitive by modern standards so focus on improving drivability (handling, braking, stable high speed cruising) and save your money for modifying a more modern and capable chassis like an S550.

You should also mention the 2g to 3g alternator upgrade. The 2nd generation was prone to catch fire + only put out 65 amps

Thanks for explaining all of this I knew most but few little things I didn’t think of thanks brotha keep sharing knowledge I love my fox miss my original first car 88lx but bought a 92 GT because I missed it so building this one how I want it now and I got more knowledge and class now that I’m a bit older should come out amazing over time thanks again

Thanks man good information just got me an 87 going to do just what you recommend

Buying an 89 lx vert with 373 gears and a vortech v3. Thanks for the video!

I had a 3.55 in my 1988 T-topped Mustang I bought from a Lincoln-Mercury Service Manager around 1990. Had most of the FMS catalog installed. When stock ones were selling for $10K+ at that time I got it for $7500 since he needed a little extra cash to buy a sail boat he wanted, had it on the side of road with a sign for cash only today.

Just got a 90 GT all original. Great video thanks

I didn’t need the advice because mines way past this but I agree and definitely enjoyed your video.

Great job and video brother !

Mine has Flowmasters and sounds awesome! I don't have subframe connectors or strut braces, but the only mods are the flowmasters and a high flow air filter. Also have the highway gear (think it is 2.73). Mine came with a Ford Motorsports 3.73 gear in a box but I think that will only make me eat tires. It is tons of fun even with the 2.73. I don't even need overdrive, kind of wish it had a 4 speed instead of the OD manual.

Awesome. GREAT Information

Great review!

Thank you for the info

Awesome im almost there 'need subframe connectors 'but i spent so much on ppg 3 stage royal blue paint i dont beat it 'is a show queen ''but thanks keep it up 'will be watching

P 35 high power mod is a must 👌!

3.27 gears are best for cruising on the Interstate at 85 mph. And also deliver decent gas mileage.

Good video bro

I found the video interesting. But my 93 5.0L 5 speed is a one owner car and does not get the abuse some others will get. But it was good to know the weak points of my car.

I hate to say it, but flowmasters snd the best on the foxbys! 👌😎

1) Ditch the air intake silencer. (Save it. It will likely be worth something since MOST guys literally threw them in the trash.) 2) Re-set timing to 13 degrees. 3) Flowmaster cat-back/Underdrive Pulleys. 4) 3.73 rear gears 5) M&H Racemaster slicks. Welcome to the 12's! And you haven't spent $1000 in mods (In 80's dollars, that is.) And you have less than an afternoon of work in it. THIS is the combination that almost every guy did after buying a 5.0 Mustang back in the 80's.

Great job I have a 89 gt

Great advice here, im suprised more guys dont take advantage of the strut brace, it makes a difference and its cheap. Flo masters is my muffler of choice on these but ill have to look for some borla vids

Appreciate the video thanks

At the beginning I felt like you were talking to me as if on the kitchen floor.

It's surprising how many people overlook the cooling fan for power. A clutch fan can easily cost 15+ hp with the clutch disengaged, which is almost what you get from a gt40 intake, and installing an electric fan is a lot cheaper...

Subframe connectors, torque arm/panhard bar, 4 wheel disc brakes, deeper gearing, as much tire as you can fit in the wheel wells.

👍 1) Which performance mufflers might be the most quiet. 2) Stealth intakes by Bigdogs Porting !!👍👍

My own modification....park Mustang in garage for 6 months till spring if you live in Illinois.

Good realistic video.

Holley efi system is a must too

in the 60's they had that brace called the Monte Carlo Bar.

lots of good info here, but as someone else mentioned a cai has ben shown to actually make less power in some setups. also a cobra, explorer, and gt-40 intake flow nearly identical.

Thx!

Rear tubular control arms are almost a must

I have a 88 Vert, I did 4 of the 5 you did, I never did the front struts stiff. Never thought of that. I put full exhaust with BBK headers, 3:55 gears, welded in sub frame connectors. My car is a cobra and put k&n air filter, no mass air as my car is a speed density one, it's red with white top and white leather interior. My plan is if I ever blow it up, do a Coyote swap

Nice cobra! Spot on with the subframe connectors, strut brace, gears, and removing the air silencer box. At stockish power levels I don't think you will see any hp gain with bigger throttle body or cold air. The air restriction is in the cylinder heads and mild camshaft. Same with the exhaust. Best thing you can do for the exhaust at stock power levels other than longtubes would be a catless midpipe but that's a smog issue. But if you've ever looked through a Ford cat from that era, that's a restriction. Not the stock shorties and catback. I also noticed a much bigger change in sound on my 5.0 when I went with a catless midpipe vs the catback. Advancing the timing is another really good one and will add some torque/hp, going from 10* base to 12-16* is worth some power as long as you are running premium fuel

I use to do this back in the days and I miss it, now that I have a stock ssp I just kept it factory just did headers and cat back oh and I overhauled the block to a 306

Years later, people are reverting back to the box air intake like you have. There is evidence that they suck air just as good (if not better) than the CAI

This is really great advice. What exhaust would have the deeper or lower note? I don’t want a raspy crack.

These are good bolt-on starter mods, but you really need to get into heads and cam to get any appreciable power out of these engines. I miss my '91.

#6... Advance timing.

Good video! $1200 to $1600 for gear swap here in San Diego, definitely not 600...

Exhaust , gears , underdrive pulleys. In Canada we cut the cats out

A blind man welded that.

Flowmaster ✌✌😉

maybe have a professional welder install subframe connector.......

You can't add power with exhaust bud. Also the best subframe connectors are the ones that cut through the floor pan. Why open the exhaust if your not opening the valves more? Cam swap is the way to go

Watching from Here in Australia i have the 302 windsor block and not sure if many components are different but it really is just a slug could be extra weight as its a sedan,auto, and got the 2,73gears wondering what power figures you guys are getting from these simple type of mods ,if I remember correctly a dead stock auto one made 170hp is that about right?

I did 4.10 ,changed my highway rpms very little. 3.73 minimum you should do

I see egr delete. What do you use to mount throttle cable

stockers dont make enough hp for connectors, ( I like the brick e brake ) 6 tune it , tune it tune it

The one thing you forgot is upgrading the brakes, before I'd get into upgrading the intake I'd do pulleys, MAF with matching 24lb injectors, ignition system, tune up, replace the radiator to 3core aluminum and install a electric fan.

Where did u get the C&L air tube from the Mass Air Meter to the Throttle body? What size meter and throttle body do you have on this car?

I want a base model 4 cylinder foxbody shell. Swap a AOC, 2Valve5.0, headers, 355 gears. Or do the same thing with a S10 but with 4.8LS, TH350 and a Ford 8.8" rear end w/lsd. Nothing to prove. Just something to make V8 noises and 2 wheel burnouts without completely eating my wallet.

Hey Mike! I just bought myself my first 5.0 and it has a M engine code in the vin (4cyl) Can I pick your brain regarding any teltale signs that I can look for to figure out if it was originally a 4cyl car or if someone put a v8 vin onto a 4cyl car or a 4cyl interiour into a v8 car etc?

First mods to my 94 cobra were chassis stiffening. Then suspension and drivetrain. This year i was goingnto start adding power as im tryjng to get into the high 9s as my end goal. (Very Low 13s on stock gears and stock power right now) unfortunately i got into a wreck a few weeks ago and going 40 mph my only dammage to the actualky chassis was the radiator support and im convinced that was because of the amount of chassis stiffening i have done to it. Unfortunately this has set back the power adding by a few months but the frame body are still straight as an arrow so its being rebuilt before continuing the goal

So, I’ve got a ‘92 LX 5.0 Feature car, and it’s got a super high 2.73:1 LSD. It’s stock, and has the AOD, but, I’d like to go up to maybe a 3.31, as it’s also a daily. Would you recommend that, or maybe lower?

Ive heard the convertibles really twist

Mike, where did you get the C&L intake pipe that clears the strut tower brace please ? I have a GT-40 intake and I want to install strut tower brace but it interferes with cold air intake tube.

All the mods I do on these cars in that exact order. 4:10 s make em rip. 2nd gear burnouts for days.

Flowmasters for the win all day I buy nothing but stainless steel Flowmasters

I have a 91 automatic 5.0 mustang that won't stay started.. any advised

.355 gears made a huge difference on my Mustang.

You forgot to mention the one most important upgrade which is the 5 lug 4 wheel disc brake kit from Ford performance!

Nice video... Just got back into the fox body game.. I had a 85 that was clapped out Franken car thing now I have a 86LX Saleen clone that absolutely amazing.. Btw you can check out my 86LX Saleen clone on my KZfaq channel 😉

That intake is actually better than the GT 40 with more material to open/port than the tubular. GT40 is better looking but that intake is good for more power than 420. I had my Cobra intake Extrude honed back in the 90's to keep stock look but allow for more flow.

Rear gears - manual 3.55 are good. Automatic 3.73 minimum.

What strut tower brace do you use?

Another free mod is to advance the timing to 13 degrees

I bought my 89 5.0 new and I had to check the option box for 3:08, I'm pretty sure is you didn't change anything the factory normal is 2:73.

Dont Know Who did but he hasard to LEARN how to weld

Good lord terrible welds on those subs!!!! Boogies, boogies everywhere!! I’d re-weld.

1950 rpm at 70 mph? mine does @1950 at 60 mph with stock size tires. Your taller tires hurt your accelleration.

Thanks for the info . I purchased an '89 LX hatchback from original owner in 2009 w/zero modifications ($2500)needing only paint and tires.Even has the T5 but is quite slow.Definatly has 2series ring/pinion and 106.000 miles. Would doing these mods hurt the value over all ? I've put approx. 3,000 miles on it in 12yrs. But would like to keep it mostly original. Would a full exhaust (Fm) and 3.73 gears make a big difference? Ran it at Bradenton motorsports park in 2112 and avg. 14.90s/91mph. Thanks for any input.

I’m interested in buying a 93 5.0 but the convertible what problems come with them?

hi what do you recommend changing gear ratio for an automatic ? 91 5.0L

Everybody wants to buy these cars stock, and the first thing they do is buy a chinese cold air intake and borlas from wish. Thank you for keeping this car real

Lol your driver fender will twist upward not the passenger side.

87-93 Mustang fox body...sure is a lot of redundancy in that statement.

Only 80's baby's like the fox body I was born in 87 but I can't stand the fox body I love the old school 60's and early '70s mustang and I even like some of the newer ones particularly the 2007 one

All of them came with a 2.73 not a 3.08. Only 82-85 came with a 3.08 gear. Also the 93 cobra mustangs came with a 3.08. but otherwise stock is 2.73.

Cadillac converter?