Brilliant. A perfect refresher. Thank you

Great information! I needed the refresher since trying to enjoy traditional archery again at age 60. Tnx again for posting!

This is excellent instruction as iam a new recurve bow shooter. The bareshaft tuning directions were throwing me off but when u take into account nock direction then it makes sense… i couldnt understand why a weak arrow was impacting right and a stiff arrow left of fletched arrows..on every chart u see. Then u mentioned NOCK left or right then it clicked😂😂😂 Iam surmising the value of this tuning method is that u start with a chosen set point weight , say 150- 200 grains, at a full length shaft so that it starts out as weakly spined at that length and then as you cut back that length it increases in stiffness until it tunes dart flying straight to that chosen point and insert combined..makes alot of sense to me as a newbie.. Thanks so much for your videos and your awesome no bs manner and style. Iam learning alot here.

This video is amazing, thank you for all your contributions to this community.

Another great video. Im getting a solid foundation from you and grateful for your videos.

Very informative!

Always great info and help. Thanks!

Thanks for the video. I've been shooting recurves for a while and just sort of "winged" my set up because I never really understood all the "tuning" stuff talked about. Now I have a lot better idea of how to setup and tune my bow/arrows. It actually seems like I kinda stumbled into what you talk about - nock is about a half inch high, brace height I figured out when I got a new string and kept twisting until I stopped getting slap/got a good noise level. Tuning arrows will be my next step. Again, thanks for explaining it so I actually understood it for once!

Thanks a ton for all the info! You're videos are very helpful. Hope you're doing well!

Awesome video! I picked up a pre-owned Northern Mist American that I could not pass up. So I am going through these exact steps right now!

I have multiple weight field tips and also use #10 washers that weigh 12 grains a piece to fine tune and tweak the best point weight when bare shaft tuning. I can usually stack up to 3 washers behind the field tip, depending on the thread length, maybe 4. If all you have is 125 field points, the washers can take you up to around 160-170 grains which match several popular traditional broadheads like Zwickeys, Magnus, and Grizzlies with aluminum screw in adapters. If you want more strength and weight, you can switch to steel screw in inserts. Thanks for all the good info.

Thanks for the tutorial.

Thanks for the tutorial. Now I know what I'm doing when setting up my new bow. Answered all my questions about arrow tuning in one great video. Thanks man!😀

Great explanation!!!!!!!!!!!!

thanx for the info, keep the videos coming,,

Another informative video, specifically relating to the arrow tunning which is tough to dial in especially when your form is not consistent. One comment I have relates to the weight of the insert you are going to use. Most arrows come with the standard relatively light inserts and we always want to beef those up. Since you build your special double inserts to get high FOC percentage, I'm thinking you tune with those and cut your shafts to 1 1/2" over and then adjust the points/heads because you have a good idea what spine works with the bows you shoot? So how might a less experienced shooter go about the process of dialing in spine and insert grains? I primarily target shoot since SoCal not a hunters paradise but I do like to have some FOC.

Thanks for the feedback. Just curious what spine arrows you're dialing in with your setup cause of the 30% FOC. I think you have mentioned your bows pull around 56#'s at your 26" draw? Your timely responses are always appreciated

I got a Bear Super Kodiak recurve and the manual for it gives a brace height between 8 and 9. So I set it at 8.5 to start.... What do you think of using serving instead of brass for your nock point? And do you clamp the brass nock til its totally closed?

Have you ever experimented with the aluminum footings? I believe that they essentially stiffen the shaft as well.

I love that quiver on your bow. What brand is that?

YOU say about brace length being critical Do you do that by shortening the string?

Do you have a recommendation for a starting point for arrows with a 50lb @ 28" recurve (58")? Thanks!

How do you loosen the brass nock point to move it?

What quiver do you have on your longbow?

Jason , I'm just learning to shoot a recurve. As far as nock right or nock left flight is it opposite for us lefties? Such as nock right= stiff etc?

Hey Jason. Great stuff! Was wondering about your thoughts on arrow length. Seen a lot on forums of guys shooting full length 32” shafts...my normal length would only be 30.5”. But full length feels like a spear. Any thoughts ... does it matter within 2 inches? Jp

For a takedown, recurve. Once you set the brace height. Then take the bow apart, I assume I have to reset the brace height every time?

Do you have beginner video

Are you left handed at everything, even left eye dominant?

What spine are you shooting?

Wanna hunting together