Hi I'm watching this closely as I've just installed my motor after doing a lower end overhaul due to failed oil pump sproket. would start fine before overhaul just oil light on. Replaced bearings, oil cooler, dual mass flywheel flushed out system refurbished turbo. now will not fire after bleeding system several times. Has been standing for a few months while i did the work but now disappointed it won't start. appreciate this channel regards Garry

I too would be suspicious of the blown fuse and what caused it. However, several years back I managed to swap the flow and return pipes to the Fuel Regulator. This didn't cause an issue until I had driven down to southern Germany and I ran the system too low on fuel (into red). Isn't then wouldn't start until I had sorted the issue and bled the system many times but crucially, cranked engine with throttle fully open.

We also had one 110 that failed to start, but which started without problems if towed, or down a small hill. This was off-course a manual. Changed a lot of things, and sometimes it would start when cranking the starter. Changed the cables from battery to starter engine, but it did not help. When we jump started from another car, it started. then we tried adding a second battery, that is one battery for the starter, and another one for ECU and stuff. It did help. Finally the car was sold as a non-starter, or actually there was an exchange between a 90 with 200tdi, and this 110 with td5. The new owner changed the starter, and now the problem is gone. Actually, that was next on our list, but the owner was done with the car.

I have a bearmach hawk eye, If you go onto the bearmach site there is application list of what the hawk eye and hawk eye pro can do. The only difference I can see is with the pro you can reprogram the a new ecu to except the alarm system. to sync up. With my td5 starting problem, I was told that the copper seals on the injectors wear out and the seals on the filter pipe work also wears,letting air back into the fuel system. Trouble is everybody can advise you of what the problem could be,like myself I had to eliminate component at a time, till I found the fault. As you know if the fault is mechanical it wouldn't register a fault code,unless there is sensor being control by a ecu of some sort. Good luck with finding and fixing the starting problem. regards marc

Fantastic, thanks for the video, replaced my 15 amp fuse and voila! the old girl fired up again!.

Had a similar problem on my defender this morning on checking the pressure switch one of the wire had snapped I reconnected the wire primed the engine and was up and running Thanks for the tips

I had a simular problem with my td5. I changed the fuel filter,as it could have had water contamination, I changed the fuel pump, that sits in the tank. checked the ecu connector. changed the fuel injection wire loom. then I found the issue to be a collapsed intercooler pipe. the pipe looked ok from the outside. but the inside of the pipe had collapsed. which in turn blocked the air intake. it might be this or not. but worth checking all turbo pipes. regards. Marc

Had this on my td5 disco couple of months ago, AA recovery and a new MAF later, all sorted!

I have a 98 Defender 90 TD5. Suddenly it won't start. It turns over, fires a first time then fails to carry on firing. I tested the fuel pressure on the supply line to the regulator and it was at 88psi. I also cleaned out the small filter on the return line from the fuel filter (filter was replaced in March 2016). The regulator is new and the car has been running without a problem for 10,000 km since. Any ideas out there?

Had a no start problem with a ‘06 Defender 90 and it was a bad fuel pump relay and socket. Td5 ECU could not be contacted by the Nanocom I had until fixed. Stumped me for a while that’s for sure.

Needs a fuel pump, regulators been leaking so long, diesel has damaged the crankshaft sensor wiring and made the pump work too hard. Wont bleed the air out for a restart after the filter change and pressure loss. Id nearly bet the gearbox top cover is missing too! The "insulation" on the crankshaft wiring is actually a braded shielding to stop interference on the signal. Starter sounds like its on its last legs or the contacts are burnt out and contaminated with diesel too, this can cause the voltage to be pulled down which can cause a no start. Been working at these lumps for 20 years and they're still going! So much for the td5 haters ;o) Had one thats got 389,000 miles on it and drive one with 230k original engine! It's the chassis rot thats killed them off now!

I eventually found the problem was worst when the battery was low after standing a few days ! The code reader indicated crank sensor not reading ? changed this sensor several tines but the problem was the same ? So while checking the wave signal from the sensor found the starter was producing a wave signal that corresponded to every compression should not be a problem but the starter cable runs inside the wiring loom thus inducing a wave into the wiring loom confusing the ECU ! I disconnected and isolated the starter cable and made and fitted a replacement cable well away from the loom problem gone !

There's a sensor on the bulkhead that will isolate the engine in the event of a crash. Mine has before just isolated the engine when it was parked. Gave it a tap and of I went again

I know this must seem obvious, but I would check the key transponder code corresponds with the ecu. Next would be fuel pump pressure. Great idea to open for ideas and suggestions👍

went through this last year and it was a loose cable on the main fuse panel, exact same symptoms. Took days to find. That was a TD5 defender.

It may be crank position sensor, also fuel not getting at right pressure. Another thing is that fuses are not blowing without the reason. There may be damaged wiring.

I'd check you had fuel pressure at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. If not 4 Bar I would check the pump is working and then look at the little gauze in the input pipe to the fuel filter.

thankyou

Where the wiring loom connects up through the rocker box to the injector loom perhalps the connector clip has come loose. A few fonts ago I had to do an alternator on a disco 2 and at some point I must have brushed this and with the same symptoms you had (turning over no go) it wouldn't run, when I saw it was loosely connected it back up properly and it went.

Does it start with a squirt of brake cleaner down its intake? And it definitely has fuel in the tank? Is there fuel getting to the rail? Is there fuel in the oil?

If the vehicle was running before servicing it has to be something connected with servicing it self.What exactly did you do except the fuel and air filter?

I have a landrover same problem the owner changed the CPS below the number 7th spark plug and when that did not work she was able to send the ECM to some place in new York to repair the unit. Plug the ECM back in to the car. Still cranks but does not start. No spark and I can not hear the fuel pump priming. Could this be a issue with the ignition switch? Let me as soon as you can thanks.

My disco 2 would not start or crank and upon checking there's no power supply to the starter. What should I check next? Pls help...

Have you come across noisy fuel system. Sounds like a bad pump.. replaced pump, new seals.. 1 expert gone through it and still not fixed.

hi there i own a land rover disco 2 td5 it just died on me i have check cps and its test fine but i dont get a constant curent supply on my brown wire to my injectors from ecm any idea what would stop this from supplying current to my injectors how can i check input to the ecm to rule out sensors?

I have a request about cleaning the red plug, what sort of solvent would you use ? I changed my loom out a while ago and still get some oil residue on in the Red plug.

Good video Chris this channel is amazing perfect quality of overvoice an edits

pack the thing up and list it on ebay, include a packet of migraleve for the next owner chris mate.

I have a request for a video, changing the injector washers and o rings ? would that be possible on the td5 ?

After the service was the fuel system bled properly after changing the fuel filter ?

I been trying to deactivate or disable the alarm system -anti-theft on my 2000 Land Rover Range Rover. Any ideas on where exactly it is or which wire? It does not want to start and the dash gives the message engine disabled.

Does the tacho bounce when cranking when ckp is working

Hi,all.I had same problem.first thing I changed fuel filter,cleaned the fuel pump filter(was clogged) and opened the ECU (plenty of oil in)cleaned it and next step ,bleeding the fuel line(ignition on ,5-6 times on acceleration pedal and wait, wait and wait,for about 5 min.)had to do the bleeding 5 times before fired up.

to be honest im a td5 defender man, I have encounter all those issues and fixed them. after that im thinking a new wiring loom?

how do i bleed the fuel system on a land rover discovery tdi?

It needs to go to the scrap metal yard asap

Interesting that the TD5 doesn't throw a fault code for a disconnected CKP other than 0rpm. Given that the wiring to the ECU seems like such a rats nest, I think my next port of call would be looking for injection pulse and fuel pressure. From the vid the compression sounds good - even at any rate - but that could be worth a look-see.

Did you ever get this running properly? If so, what was it? We had a problem where the fuel was returning to the tank too quick so the pressure wasn't there for the injectors. Basically had to fit a restriction to the return line. This is normally handled by the fuel filter, which can mean the fuel filter needs changing.

Injector copper washers anyone? If the fuel pump is really noisy when switching ignition on...

Mine turned out to be fuel regulator not holding 4 bar.

2008 Land Rover LR2: No Crank/No Start; Steering Column Locked displayed in dash; U0415-Invalid Data from ABS Control Module Could all this be caused by a weak battery? Battery was down to 12 volts. Scan tool was able to read live data with key in ignition. All readings appeared normal for a cold vehicle. The instrument cluster lights up, head lights worked. Car would just not crank. Just a bunch of clicking while pressing the "push button" start button. What could the problem be? Any help appreciated. Thanks!!!

if its been sat for a while then maybe an air lock in the fuel? spent days chasing fuel problems on a friends TD5 defender thanks to their weird routing system

Water ingress through the plenum / windscreen into the internal underpass fuse box

To give a guess on the engine not starting, its probably the cam sensor perhaps? or the fuel pumps itself?

faulty diesel return valve, high humidity levels,low voltage.......

How did you "Reprogram it to fit the vehicle"?

Check valves in the fuel filter housing?

my land rover won't crank or start and it don't show engine light on the dash.

hi i have been following your videos a fair bit and about 7 months ago got myself a freelander 1 2000 model. Wondering if OBD tools like isoftcar can actually read fault codes in regards to solenoid valves on the transmission. Thanks

forget to say I have a hawk eye diagnostic tester and when I checked for error codes there were none.

Working before service and not working after - sack the mechanic :) - maybe the crank sensor was dislodged?

I'd start with the fuel pump as others have said

anyone even thought about taking the ecu out you have to pre programme the injectors back into the system?

how do i bleed the fuel system?

I got an problem on discovery only pump is working but the can't start

That happens with my 300 tdi

Hate to be the person that says this but it should be non start instead of none start.

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Scrap it or spend £200gettin it done lol