They great cards

Awesome, it's a great card, with a lot of options, you'll love it :-)

Glad it was helpful! :-)

Glad to help! Thanks for the positive feedback :-)

no problem, glad it helped :-)

Thank you :-)

For your 4-way joystick, your best bet is to daisy-chain the 4-way up to Player 1 up, and 4-way down to Player 1 down, etc. etc. That way either joystick activates the appropriate button, so you use whichever joystick you want for whichever game, and you would just ignore the other joystick for that particular game.

The USB adapters will definitely help. The Ultimate I/O does have an input limit, but perhaps you should reach out to Andy at Ultimarc, tell him everything you want to connect and he can advise you on what you need. He's definitely trustworthy and won't try to oversell you.

Great question. I believe the answer is no, the power is just for the LED gear.

I'm not sure to be honest, you can use them for whatever you want to, on mine I used them for flippers for the pinball emulator, but most of the labels refer to MAME default mappings. However, they can all be reassigned to whatever you want. Word of advice though, try to stick with the defaults as much as possible because most emulators just follow MAME, or you define it 100% yourself, but if you stick to defaults as much as possible it provides more consistency.

As far as I understand it, it's either or, not both.

Originally it was just a 500 watt power supply. RGBs doesn't pull much power. I recently upgraded to 750 only because the PC components were upgraded.

I can't personally speak for the flight sticks, but I do have a video comparing the servo stick and the u360 you may want to check out :-)

I will check this when I get home. Why would you want to remap the buttons based on emulator vs programming each emulator for a common set of buttons? Just curious. I know the software can do the configuration from the command line, but I haven't tried it yet. Again, I'll test tonight when I get home and get back to you :-)

I know there are command line options, but I don't know what they are. You may want to ask Andy at Ultimarc this question. Let me know what he says :-)

The configuration gets saved to the board :-)

Dalovesac King yes

What Derek said LOL

I believe it's 4.8 mm based on the extension pack www.ultimarc.com/output/led-and-output-controller-accessories/extension-harness-pack/ However, you could change this to whatever you wanted, it's just a matter of cutting the end, stripping the wire and attaching your own connectors. I actually ran my cables along CAT 5 cable in my build so they could terminate in RJ45 connectors so I could remove the control panel easily and reconnect it easily :-)

I'm not sure I understand the question 100%. Please clarify?

Yeah, definitely. They all seem to use fairly similar buttons. In fact, all the default button mappings on the IPAC are setup to copy the MAME default config. Some other emulators don't have default configurations and you have to manually configure them, but it definitely wouldn't hurt to follow the MAME standard and then manually configure the ones that don't match :-)

I have not had that issue. I would check the firmware first to see if there is any updates. If it's up-to-date, then I would reach out to Andy at Ultimarc.

This is a sign of the times. The connector on the power supply is an old school Molex connector which used to be the standard in PCs. Newer power supplies do not include this style at all. In order to connect this device you want to get a SATA-to-Molex adapter like the one linked below: www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-3-Pack-Molex-Power/dp/B00STNUB04/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=sata+to+molex+adapter&qid=1620047663&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMFdOTFFGMTRaUTZKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjkzODUwMUY5TlkwRjlZNVI4QyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTI2MjEyMVJLQjVYUkc3U01DQSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I've added this to my list of video ideas. It is something I'm working towards. Similar to the way I showed the pixelcade install, I'm working to make an animated CGI of how the controllers are assembled, and how they are wired would definitely also help confusion, so thank you, when that day comes along, I'll show your post requesting it :-)

Usually just USB and power cable attached to a MOLEX connector.

Actually, it's a tiny USB connector that I got from the vendor. You can purchase it separately... So for me, I have Ultimarc spinners and trackballs so I have these USB controllers for each of those... www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/u-hid-en/u-hid-nano/

@@MavericksArcade thx. in the meantime i built a spinner with a optical pc mouse. it does the job. plays outrun, tempest, arkanoid etc

You may want to check with Andy (at Ultimarc) on that question. I'm not 100% and don't want to tell you something that could damage your setup.

On the block, you use a pin to remove the wire from the existing harness and replace it with the extend one, they're just longer wires :-)

I personally would use the IPAC shift keys because you could make those active across all applications. This would especially be true for volume, pause, and so on. Just make sure you're shift key is not a game play button. By making a button a shift key it's waiting to see if other keys are pressed. Therefore, if you made your main fire button a shift key you wouldn't be able to button smash it. Use a key like P4START or some other button that you won't use during active gameplay. The shift key can be it's own assignment, if you use a non in-game related button. I haven't tested using gamepad vs. keyboard for differences. In all honesty, keyboard has worked for me for everything so there's been no need to change it. Does the current control panel have plexi? LOL... otherwise, no, I got my own wife to negotiate with... (actually, she's been great through all this, as long as it's my $ she don't care)... Honestly, she only gets annoyed that before the videos I wouldn't shave my head as much, and now I try to make myself pretty for you guys... LOL

Makes sense, especially since some emulators may not have hotkey support and its just easier to assign the same key across emulators. Just thinking maybe gamepad mode is for use with the analog ultrastick, so you dont have a combination of gamepad + keyboard to deal with for each player. To simplify things when I was starting out, my current control panel is an x-arcade tankstick. It works fine, its just not pretty ;) It just broke my heart when i added all the bits i needed to make an ultimarc one from scratch and my shopping cart passed the $500 mark... Might do it in phases, leave room to add a trackball back later, etc. I am back and forth on the RGB vs one color buttons, do you know whats involved with wiring the single color LEDs? All i have read is that they required "additional" wires... Now its back to the whole time vs money debate. Any ways thanks again!

Well, at least the Ultimarc buttons plug straight into the board with no wire modifications neccessary. You can see in the video that the block of LEDs have four pings. If using RGB lights, the pins are power, red, blue, green. However, if wiring single light leds, you'd need to share the common wire, then instead of considering it red, it would be pin 1, the next light would be pin 2, the third light would be pin 3. If you watch the LED blinky series on my channel when I'm programming the board with LED Blinky it might make even more sense. :-)

They do not conflict because they aren't both running resident. JoytoKey only works while it's running because it's a software emulation of a device. Winipac is just an application that reprograms the board that acts as a hardware keyboard/joystick. When you make a change in Winipac it actually reprograms the board itself to emulate the hardware changes directly. Windows doesn't realize that the Ultimate IO isn't actually a keyboard or joystick or whatever it's emulating. Does that fully answer your question?

So I figured it out I was changing my button layout in retro arch and everything was all messed up but then remembered that it was running mame 64 through retro arch so went into mame 64 and changed all the button settings for players 1 through 4 and now everything is working fine

awesome! sorry for not responding, I'm getting better... soon... I'm horrible at following up.

The board allows 48 inputs. The joysticks would count as 4 inputs alone, perhaps connect those with USB? I would recommend you pose the question to Andy at Ultimarc and let him give you an idea of what you would need. He's an honest guy and will give you his best recommendation :-)

I'm not sure I understand your question. You mean there are extra wires, but none of them are Molex? If so, that's a common problem on modern power supplies, you would need a SATA-to-Molex adapter :-) Here's an example: www.amazon.com/Power-Cable-Adapter-Female-8-inch/dp/B07BQFKTG7/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1DU74X0GYRWVC&keywords=sata+to+molex+adapter&qid=1707184623&sprefix=sata+to+molex%2Caps%2C85&sr=8-3

@@MavericksArcade Thanks. That's exactly what I'm looking for.

If you're still having this issue, please let me know on the arcade facebook page, troubleshooting is much easier with that messaging setup.

So the board can be configured in multiple ways. In some cases if you have a spinner or trackball directly attached to the board then those buttons aren't available to use for 3rd or 4th player. In my case I use separate USB controllers for my trackball and spinner so I can keep the buttons available on the board. There aren't specifically labeled coin/start buttons for the 3rd and 4th players, but you can define the buttons anyway that you would like. On mine, I have the 3rd and 4th player coin/start buttons using 1A, 2A, 1B, and 2B.

@@MavericksArcade had the same question. U rock man, thx for these videos.

The Molex power is specifically used for the RGB lighting function. If you do not use RGB lights, you're fine.

The board itself is powered by the USB from the computer in most cases. The board would have to process the signal. However, check out the following video I made that uses a button as a dedicated power button and using the LEDs to signify that the power is on and also provides the hard drive indicator. If would require a dedicated button instead of a shifted button. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rL9nhref3snFhGQ.html

Yes, review my Mortal Kombat video. I show how to take a keyboard emulation controller like the iPAC and load a virtual controller prior to launching Steam that allows Steam to work correctly when it expects controllers. That way, you can have most of your configuration for all other emulators, and still use the same configuration for use with Steam apps. :-)

@@MavericksArcade thank you!

I believe you could do this if your trackball has buttons. I'm not sure if you could do a click by rolling the trackball.

The board only has 96 inputs total, with RGB using 3, you can handle a max of 32 RGB buttons on one board. I'm not sure if you can mix-match the boards that well. I would reach out to Andy at Ultimarc and check your setup possibilities with him. Please let us know what you find out.

Maverick's Arcade actually im getting ready to do the same on a 4 player pedestal arcade, would regular illuminated buttons like with only one color save some space ?

@@MavericksArcade thanks for the specs on 96 Inputs and 32 LED outputs. Also loved the recommendation (in another video powering both left and right Pinball buttons to the same LED since yes the color will always be the same. Do you buy chance have a copy of your Excel Spreadsheet available for download also noted in another one of your video's? I've been trying to find it and you've referenced it a few times, but I haven't found a link or reference to it if it's available. Thanks and keep up the great work... 😀

You could hardwire them, but the computer is used to control the colors. For example, if you watch my video for making a power button out of a button you can see I hardwired the colors to the PC LEDs. You just need to make sure to have a power supply with the proper voltage

p.s. I'm assuming I cant edit the spinner and trackball input =s as when i change them they reset to joystick play 3 and 4 inputs

You may need more than one, it depends if any of those parts are USB connected and don't need the board. Or do they all need a board? I would send all your needs to Andy at Ultimarc for more info. You could potentially want 1 Ultimate IO board and then maybe just some controllers based on your RGB LED needs??? If you send him your full inventory of what you need to connect, he can tell you exactly what you need :-)

According to the site, 48 inputs.

I would first check that all the wires are connected in the correct spots, and then check and make sure the programming is configured correctly. If you have any more issues, reach out to Andy at Ultimarc, he's really good about supporting his customers

I'm going to be getting those emulators at some point in the near future, I just need to buy an 8 TB drive to build a 2nd boot disk onto. I want to have the option to boot between seperate systems entirely. But those are expensive :-/

Yes it's sure :/

I'm not sure about Hyperspin as I haven't used it yet, still looking into it. Are your buttons mapped to keyboard keys? If so, it should just be normal button mapping. Please provide more of a description of the problem and I'll see if I can help.

Send me your information on Discord and we could look to do a live session for a video. I do not require payment, but donations are always appreciated :-) Chuck

Unless your doing something complex using LED's and whatnot the "zerolag usb encoders" found on Amazon and Ebay are cheap $8, they work great and are super easy to install. I have used both IPAC boards and the zerolag encoders and for a quick build the zerolag are just so much easier to install. It is true of most things the more you try to be an all in one solution like LED driver, trackball, spinner and keyboard encoder the more complex you have to be but if you just do one thing then you can do that one thing well and more simply!. The Ultimarc boards are great boards but if they are too complex for you then I would just get the zerolag encoders. You can always get a LEDWiz board and wire up any LED's later on that way your building in stages and that will make troubleshooting easier as well.

@@mynameisprivate158 - I haven't worked with other boards that much. I agree if you just want simple functionality other boards would work fine. I however knew going in that I was going to have a lot of LED's of all colors doing complex animations from the get-go :-) If you're going to build it, might as well make it cooler than just some plan opaque buttons :-)

What is the issue you're having in Hyperspin?