nice and informative video on the permanent fix. but in the video you are talking about the previous owner using a gasket paste instead of a rubber o-ring. These original orange rings are actually molded in from the factory and become flat over the years. hence why you need to pry it out with a small pick or small flathead screwdriver. But still nice video.

Oh wow, good to know :) thanks for sharing. Yeah it looked so terrible I was sure it was a hack job by someone in the past. New gasket is clearly needed.

Any updates?

how about now ??

how bout now? 2024

Do you recall what size screw you used? Thanks for the $30 tip haha

I don't know the size of screw...just any the size of the pin with enough threads to take root in that space

it was designed to be replace every 70k or 100k miles

I'm reading that the there's something on the intake manifold where the DISA sits that doesn't allow the pin to come all the way out, so it can't tank your engine. The pin can come a little bit loose though which causes rattling and a poor functioning DISA valve which causes idle problems, weaker low and top end power, and other problems

I've been reading that the flap being loose causes the rattling. If you check yours and it isn't loose, your rattle might be coming from something else

Hi drifter, i am planning to upgrade my disa valve soon (preventive maintenance) I saw ur post but don't understand fully.. do u mean there are 2 o-rings that should be replaced when upgrading the disa valve?

@@BasWillems1234 The N52B engines have a left and right Disa valve on the intake my car is a 2007 Z4 Coupe I Get on Rockauto go to engine then intake actuator and you can see pictures I'm at 80kmi. I don't feel it's really a problem because the pin everyone talks about can't fall into the engine because it's up against intake plenum It can however fall out "if" it's already broken when your removing it from plenum I would wait to do it when the valve cover and plastic lines from it need changing "the lines that go under plenum" from valve cover in rear which is part of the pcv system

@@drifter9425 Hi Drifter, Thanks for ur reply. I have an bmw E39 station 530i (M54 engine) I am not sure if it's designed the same way but will definitely check when I am going to replace the seals and flap. 👌

Still working great! 😀 I will try and do an actual update video. Cheers!

The issue with trying to glue the pin is that you have no way to ensure the pin glues only to the flap. Chances are once you squeeze it in that the glue will leak out and also glue the pin to the bit of the frame it's going through, at which point the flap will no longer be free to move.

I glued the pin, just disconnect shaft on the bottom and move it until glue getting hard(sorry for English)

You sure it's not the starter? You can try and bump-start the car and see if it stays on. If it keeps running, your battery and alternator are fine. And the obvious suspect would be the starter. Otherwise might be something else.

Where do you buy your replacement? I'm looking, may have to just try to buy new but calling local part store, sad they aren't versed in this... Any help I would appreciate

Probably a little late for you but I got here today so if anyone cares: check your vanos. It may be time to have a look at it. Meaning rebuild.

@@_J.P._ more like ccv or vacuum system

Interesting...didn't look into the clearance just knew I wanted it not to fall out. I'll have to check into that if I ever have to remove it again 🤙🏼

So basically him removing the flap entirely because he didn't want the pin to fall out while driving and tank the engine is something he (understandably) made up? Do you know how much clearance there is? Or is the pin right up against something holding it in?

You could possibly glue it, as long as that glue can be trusted to withstand the abuse. Otherwise much like if that pin goes into the engine, should any glue go into the engine I can't imagine it being a good thing. As far as this aluminum one goes, yes it is tightened from the other end and locktight is applied. The grip washer is not on the top (where orginally the pin was), there is nothing on the top which is why this is the safest solution as nothing is on the engine side that could potentially get loose and go into the engine. The grip washer you see is inside the actual DISA assembly, outside the engine. It simply holds the crank of the flap secured to the plastic arm that moves it.

You're calling it a bolt but I think you're talking about the pin? If that's the case, why do so many people find a loose pin when they take their DISA out? There must be enough space for it to come loose, because it does... either way I like the idea of having it mounted with threads vs a push pin that is known to come loose. And there's the risk when you're removing the DISA unit the pin falls down into the intake manifold, that simply can't happen with the long bolt permafix

@@danielinacar Well to properly do it both left and right should be replaced and intake has to come off to do it so no worries about pin falling out It's wise to change both somewhere around 80k mi since diaphragm only lasts so long anyway

@@drifter9425 both left and right what?

@@danielinacar There are 2 on a N52B left disa is on outside of intake plenum right one is located inside the plenum look between the runners

At least on my 2007 Z4 3.0 Coupe

Just make sure to grab the correct one for your engine :) Directly from manufacturer: x8r.co.uk/products/bmw/bmw-disa-repair-kits OR Amazon www.amazon.com/DISA-VALVE-PLATE-REPAIR-X8R43/dp/B010H0Z8OU

Thanks man I appreciate the info

Because it eliminates the chance of the pin from the factory piece from falling in the engine. Which is why you get a screw with the new parts.

This is true, but the pin is a far more common and dangerous problem to have. I am almost certain that if the actuator doesn't work you will have some sort of code that will let you know :)

Do you have insite on this issue? My disa is in perfect condition. It does the vacuum test nicely. Is firm and snaps back into place. But the car will not close it. A nudge with your finger will close it and it will open at 4200 rpm but not close again. I assume the vacuum chamber on it is leaking?

@@joshemminger9022 Did you ever figure this out? I just replaced with a similar kit and can still hear the rattling. I also passed the vacuum test where you hold your finger over the valve and the swivel will only open partially.

@@JasonConroy sorry about the delay. I simply removed the pin and flap. I figured since it was open anyway might as well give it some more room. This guy has other problems with his engine. A disa valve wont throw codes if that's all that is wrong.

Not true at all. Without the valve there is excess air coming in through the intake and the engine throws a lean code (which is accurate). The moment I returned the flap by replacing it with this aluminum one (and reset the codes) everything went back to normal. It is also evident by the average fuel consumption.

Weekend agenda original, unfinished however, so it gets used as background music in the videos 😉

All of them have a DISA, just the size is different depending on the engine. So make sure you order the correct kit for your engine. But the process will be identical 👍

@@WeekendAgendaTV I can't find a Kit for my 2.0L M52b20. Can I use the 2.2L for the M54?

@@eXpos3D M52 and M54 DISA are not compatible but as this is only the flap, I am not sure

@@boonamai8926 thanks for your reply Buddy. I've looked it up myself and found out that they are indeed different. I ended up just buying a new DISA. Thanks anyway :)! Have a good day mate.

@@eXpos3D no problem, may our BMWs live on ^^

How do I go about that?

Ta avait pas attendre qui casse Stupid humain