Thank you for the kind words, it is just nuts and bolts and spanners, so have fun, and if you post anything I’ll be happy to take a look. Rich.

Best channel ive found too for a virago , they must all be generic design displacement engines would there be any great differences ?, is a workshop manual available for the engine assy procedure ie pictorial diagrams etc ?

Glad it helped, thank you for the comment.

Glad it helped, sometimes it is just pulling at apart and having a look with a few basic things to look out for, it’s just nuts bolts and spanners really.

@@memybikeni9931 Thank you for sharing your courage, I really appreciate that :)

Thank you

Coming soon

Thank you

You’re welcome 😊

Hi, if you mean between the side of the Conrod Big End and the webbing then relatively easily you can reach down with the head, barrels and pistons removed, if you mean using plastiguage between the bearing shell itself and the journal then I would say not possible to get to both sides of the end cap nut and bolt, to strip it apart, but if you have got that far, then a full engine strip is only a little more work. This is the problem with cases that go together side by side though, there is less room to do this sort of thing.

Thank you for such an accurate response Mr. Rich. May the successes continue

You’re welcome hope it helped

I think the XV 750 must be altogether a different set up, this just has a rod, with a ball bearing, and no threaded parts to it.

Yes mate, and you can buy engines quite cheaply, so harvesting for parts quite simple. Good luck with the project, I enjoyed making mine into a rat bike,any questions just ask !

Thanks m8 that is appreciated 😊

The starter is pre engaged, so if you have a starter issue, best remove and strip and clean it as a starting point. It is in constant mesh with the first/second idler gear, the next issue you may have will be a worn starter clutch. But remove and bench test the starter first, they are easy to replace, but sometimes taking the stator cover off assists with getting it out, as the o ring grabs it pretty well.

Yes you can but you’d have to pull all the other stuff off from the clutch side instead. I think you can probably just do one side or the other in order to split them, from memory can’t see why not.

@@memybikeni9931 Much respect friend,,,

Yes so they go on top of the barrels and under the head around the big oil port dowels. fit them at the same time. As fitting the head gasket.

Torque specs are usually just in the manufacturers service manual, here in the U.K. we have Haynes as the main goto book of lies.

@@memybikeni9931 lolo ok thanks!!

Please ?

End to end allow maybe 20 hours.

I think you mean gear changer ? But I’m not absolutely sure, I never changed mine, but I’d say it’s from the inside, these things usually are.

@@memybikeni9931 the clutch push rod lever seal, near where you attach the clutch cable. I just did the bottom cylinder gaskets as no2 had a minor leak. Rebuilt her fired up fine. However another minor leak from the clutch push rod lever area. Engine back out the bike for the third time gotta love it right? Keep up the good work with your videos :)

@@spawn90761 ah I see exactly what you mean now, the actuator rod seal that is pulled by the cable ? Yes that is engine out as you would have to lift the actuator out of the case, and for that you need to remove the head and barrels for clearance. You will have to take the clutch cover off, and pull the clutch push rod out, ball bearing etc, and then take the stator cover off, and there is a locking bolt around about the 10 o’clock position from the neutral switch mechanism, so remove that. You may need to take the middle gear gear cover off as you will see that the middle gear does need to be positioned to allow clearance for the actuator rod to be lifted up. I imagine the seal then comes out the top as I couldn’t see any way to remove it from inside. I left mine assembled as it did not form part of my investigation inside the engine. But as you have gone that far with it, should be straight forward for you. check the torsion spring, it’s a good opportunity to replace it.

@@memybikeni9931 thanks for the tips such a pain to have to drag the engine out. But hey ho. Thanks for the knowledge my friend. I'm also based in the UK I'm near Cardiff.

@@spawn90761 ah I’m in Reading so just up the road 😊

Hi there

Yes you’re so right, instructional videos are so much better without any talking. I’ll be quiet now, do let me know when I can say something again.