Yeah me too. I haven’t been out on a bike for months 😬

Thank you Richard, it was a lot of fun stripping this one down.

Thank you, glad you enjoyed.

It’s a good indicator if you let the valve drop into its seat with the head upside down and you get a clunk, and then lap it in, and you get a metallic clink, it’s a fair bet it needed a lap and there was just some crap to remove on the seat or the valve itself.hopefully it sorts your issue mate.

@@memybikeni9931on the front cylinder the bolts seem to stick out a fair bit and the chain is very tight on the timing cog any ideas mate or tips

@@1982garyo which bolts, the main studs ? If the chain is tight, check it isn’t snagged down in the well near the primary drive gear.

You’re welcome

Thank you 😊

You’re welcome, hope it helped.

Bent selector fork or worn dogs I guess, should be able to pick up used parts to get it going. That’s what I hate about V engines and their side case arrangement, its a total strip down to inspect anything, it’s so much easier to drop a sump cover off a straight engine, and have a look up inside.

Hi there i found the problem and think i sorted it ??? BUT can you PLEASE show me or tell me in terms i can understand how to set the Cam timing ,i.e what position the crank should be in etc etc,,,,,sorry for asking this but i just can,t get it right,,,,,,,,,Kind regards,,,,,,,,,Colin

@@colinwood1802 so do the rear cylinder first, turn the crank so that the line next to the ‘T’ mark is lined up in your timing window, the turn the cam shaft on the rear so that the dowel on the end lines up with the pointer on the case, and then assemble the sprocket and chain. Move to the front cylinder, and the turn the crank so that the single line, lines up with the mark in the timing window and repeat the same steps as the rear cylinder to assemble the cam chain and sprocket. Be careful not to over shoot the line on the front and make another rotation otherwise it will work but will run poorly.

@@memybikeni9931 if you do overshoot the line on the front and make another rotation what do you do so it doesn't run poorly? Do you have to restart at rear?

Either the head gasket not seated properly if the leak is lower down onto the pipes or possibly the rocker cover. I did notice on mine oil came up through the single bolt that holds the barrel down as the o rings were damaged. Best thing clean it up, get it running, and get an inspection light on it.

Ah ok thanks, I did think the front was No 1. it’s odd that my heads show the marking 2GV which is the US model, and this is a U.K. bike being 2YL. So I assumed parts had been messed around with at some point. I set my bike up as a single 2 into 1 carb, with a hitachi carb off a bigger XV, so not in possession of the old Mikunis now. Thanks for the info, appreciate it.

If it all goes back the way it came out it should be fine I would have thought.

@@memybikeni9931 🙏👍

If you haven’t actually removed the engine yet, before doing anything else, do a compression test, so you can see which block is the issue, which will save a lot of initial disassembly. A basic leak down test to see where power is being lost. If compression is going out into the crank case, then likely broken or worn rings. Valve seats won’t be an issue, issues with them will just lose compression, not cause oil to get in anywhere, if you mean valve stem seals, that generally only produces a little blue smoke on start up, it wouldn’t cause oil loss though the exhaust. That is likely getting into the cylinders through the head gasket, broken or worn rings or a crack somewhere in the block. So do a compression test, identify where the issue is, take the head off, inspect the head gasket, which is a 3 ply metal gasket, and at the point if all is ok, then you will need to go lower into the engine. With then engine out, and heads off, put each cylinder into bottom dead centre, and pour petrol in, see how quickly it disappears into the crank case. If one is rapid and one is slow, it’s rings. It could just be the head gasket, or maybe a hole in the piston crown possibly, but you can check that with a quick look down the plug hole. Let me know how you get on.

Thank you for your quick reply! I'll get a compression test set first and go from there. Since there is oil on both spark plugs I have a strong feeling I'll be working on both heads. I'll keep some updates on the progress and your videos will provide most of the information needed. I'm really thankful for the information you provide!

@@dylantendoornkaat6155 probably just worn rings. Question though, if you haven’t compression tested it yet, what makes you think power is down ? Sluggish ? That could be air/fuel, carbs needing a service. Worn rings on both sides not a major drama if your using the bike regularly, it’ll burn off more than it leaves sitting in the cylinder.

Well, when I started her up cold she was spitting oil and I lost power whilst it was riding perfect before so I think it's the valve stem seals on both cylinders. Since both spark plugs were full of oil I just decided to take the engine apart and check both the seals and rings. Now I didn't find any problems on the pistons, tested with some gasoline and it all stays on top without bubbling. Waiting for the tool to remove the valves and the gasket set meanwhile I'll be cleaning all the old gaskets off(what a hell of a job) and then we're back on track! Your videos are really helpful!🤘🏻

@@dylantendoornkaat6155 could be stem seals, just a bit severe to be spitting oil. What happens in first start up, as oil runs down the stems, it gets burnt off on start up, but then disappears. If oil burning continues, it isn’t usually seals. Maybe check the head for runout, may be warped.

It 0.1mm intake, 0.15mm exhaust, the line with the T is the rear cylinder TDC, the other line is the front cylinder, time the rear first, hope that makes sense.

@@memybikeni9931 thank you I will do that is the mark with the line for both valves on front il let the back cylinder alone onely the front one is doing its job thanks for the help mem.

I ment the front one is the trouble thanks

@@joepunk3020 yes so when you put any cylinder in TDC compression, what this means is both/all valves are closed , therefore you can be sure that the cams/rockers are not pressing down on them, therefore there is clearance between them which you can then set. TDC compression can also be tested to be sure you’re not 360° out by wiggling the rockers to see if they are loose or tight. So yes, TDC compression, you can adjust both intake and exhaust at the same time.

@@memybikeni9931 thank you mem you ar very helpful and a grat machanic I will troy that tommorow thanks again for you're help brilliant

No I didn’t get skimmed, if you have a clear issue with it then yes get it skimmed, but I’m not sure on small blocks that it’s an issue, and it’s an air cooled engine, so less reason to overheat, while that’s sounds counter intuitive, it’s a front cylinder, gets more air flow, and can’t suffer from intermittent issues like water pump failures. but the head had no issues, I had to strip it to fix the bottom end. Just a clean and re assemble of the top.

@@memybikeni9931 Thank you for the swift response. I have a second gasket should it fail so I think I will roll the dice on it. Cheers mate.

@@craigleeofficial why are you taking it apart ?

@@memybikeni9931 Long story short, exhaust bolt snapped off and upon trying to extract it, knackered the head. Have a spare knocking around so fit it with the old gasket (took the chance) but shortly failed (as expected) now I need to do the job properly.

@@craigleeofficial ah right so probably just a new gasket will sort it out.

Does it matter if you tighten the cam sprocket bolt first then put tensioner in and you do put a little tension on with finger to make sure dot is aligned with mark right?

@@firebird14420 Hi, So once the engine is all assembled, work on the rear cylinder timing first. In this order, align the line by the ‘T’ mark on the timing cover mark, and then with the cam sprocket removed so you can see what you’re doing, align the dowel on the end of the cam shaft with the mark on the case. Then slip the sprocket on the end of the Camshaft. At 40:05 what I did was turn the sprocket slightly to the right to allow for the tensioner to pull it back into alignment, but it doesn’t really make a difference, due to chain stretch/elongation, you’re most likely to get it to the equivalent of half a tooth out anyway. If it looks near on when it’s assembled it’s ok. You will likely be half a tooth out and if you were 1 and a half teeth out you’d definitely know it. You can see in this example at 41:20 it all pulled into alignment. Not too tricky. The cam sprocket bolt is not relevant for this procedure as the sprocket does not turn on the shaft at all as its prevented from rotating by the dowel, the bolt just stops the sprocket coming off the end, so whether it is fitted, tightened, not fitted at all, doesn’t matter. Try not to let the chain fall in, but you can quite easily hook it back out with a pick or a magnet, or tie it up with wire, but that can get in the way a bit.

@@memybikeni9931 thanks so much 🙏👍✌️

@@memybikeni9931 if you do overshoot the line on the front and make another rotation what do you do so it doesn't run poorly? Do you have to restart at rear?

@@memybikeni9931 and btw engine is together in frame, noticed front cylinder was 3 tooth off. So when I do this do I have to loosen the valves up? I know I should definitely readjust, but I'm going to go through both cylinders. Do I need to take the tensioner off the front when starting with rear cylinder? Or just leave it and when Im done with rear just go to front and take tensioner out, sprocket bolt and adjust? Sorry so many questions mate!!