Thank you for watching!

Thank you for watching!

That's easy... LOL. Step 1: use hammer or have hammer sound in the background of the video Step 2: download GIF: i.imgur.com/WfW2U.gif Step 3: insert into video Thank you for watching!

Thanks and thank you for dropping in!

Thank you for watching!

I'm aware of the 46mm torque spec (360ish ft lbs), but is it acceptable to just mark the nut to the spline shaft with a punch, before disassembly? (I have no bearing issues yet. Just want to inspect and repack.) What's stopping the bearings from being over torqued? I had the nut off yesterday to inspect my brake shoes..

I mark the nut / shaft position before removing the nut... when assembling, I gauge how much effort my impact gun takes to get the nut back to the same position. It's a "feel" that I have acquired over the years. I either end up back at the same location or I adjust accordingly (less or more tight depending on the struggle the gun has to get to the marks). I've done a lot of Vanagon rear brakes over the years and always removed the nut & hub to do so. Installed the nut as mentioned and have NEVER had any issues with bearings (new or old) failing prematurely. I might have changed less than 10 bearing sets over the last 20+ years. Good & tight is good & tight.

Thank you... what do you see mainly at your shop? So that I can pick your brain if I run into something that you might deal with more than myself.

A little bit of play is fine.

Insert & tap with a hammer till seated. Keep an eye on the inner race on the other side to make sure it does not pop out.

Thank you for watching... I was actually wrong in saying that. The loaded surfaces remain the same, due to the way the joints are driven. Outer race pushes on inner race (inner bearing), inner race pushes on outer race (outer bearing). When you swap sides, then the same this is happening. I should have moved the axle to the driver side, keeping the inner joint on the inside, then the load would be on the other side of the bearing. Gets confusing, that's why I keep making the mistake. D'Oh!

it makes sense, thanks

Yes... but the stub axle can stay on place if you need to remove the backing plate. The wheel cylinder needs to come off and the lower mount for the shoes. The shoes & brake cable... and then the backing plate should come off.

Thank you for watching!

Thank you, kind of you to say! Thank you for watching!

Thank you and thank you for watching! I will ty to continue to supply T3 content! =)

May i request something additional, can you please write the exact problem, how to notice it and what are the complains that will address the exact repair job in the video descriptions below :). The reason why i say this is, for example this video we can see how to remove rear wheel bearing but i cant understand how did you diagnosed the problem was about that. To be more spesific i am not an expert so when i hear a sound or realise something is wrong i cant address the issue. Can you please put something about the problem also so when we have the same problem we can know how to fix it :). This way i can watch a solution but i cant figure out which problem leads us to that solution. Thank you Kind Regards :)

Thank you for your input... I understand what you mean. Because I record while I work, I don't always record the actual diagnosis. I tend to just record the removal of what the issue is. A noisy wheel bearing should be easy / straight forward to diagnose (rumble / growing sound from the rear when the vehicle is moving... the faster the vehicle, the louder the sound). It is easier and more time efficient for me, to reply to comments... rather than try to record, describe or leave reasons for the repair in the description or in the video. Video editing takes enough time... making the video longer (to describe the reason for the repair) or to add a "before" & "after" sounds, takes more time than I want to add to each video. Most people don't watch my videos from start to finish... so extra work for something that is not being watch, does not make sense to me at this point. Maybe sometime in the future, when I am working out of my own warehouse (similar to Eric The Car Guy), I can the spend more time on each repair, to cover all the important bits & sounds.

Preventative maintenance can prevent getting stranded. =) The rear bearings last a much longer time than the front. Both are straight forward to change. All the best to you for the new year! Thank you for watching!

It doesn't have to be full... but there should be a layer of grease (between the inner & outer bearing) to contact both bearings, around the inner circumference.

Maybe. Best way to judge is when the nut is tight and then try to wiggle the wheel. Axle nut torque is more than 350 ft lbs (service manual will list exact value). A little play is fine. Unless the bearings are noisy when spinning (after cleaning) they seem to last forever.

@@EXOVCDS thanks alot for the reply. There wasn't any play on the passengers side before I took everything off. The driver's side does but I haven't tackled that side yet.

Yes, that also works.

Thank you for watching!

Nice to hear... thank you for watching!

Growling sound... may or may not change pitch when vehicle is driven in a slight slalom (change load on bearing). With that many miles... they could use regreasing at minimum, but you probably have at least one that is bad. I would replace both pairs... good for another 320K miles then. =)

Thank you for watching!

A little ply is fine... it's a judgment call. No noise... I would just keep an eye on it.

Yes... just tap it back into place.

That's what I was thinking.

Too many critics that watch my videos (not you)... don't need to deal with "should have, could have etc". Sometimes I show the assembly... I also don't want to be liable for someone following my "installation"... screwing up & blaming me. Hmm, maybe I'll open a second channel... paid channel, where the assembly is shown. Only those truly interested in the assembly would bother subscribing. LOL

***** Oh ok. I understand.

I would assume that it is self centering on the stub axle... since it is enclosed in the bearing housing, I can't see how / where exactly it sits. I would imagine that if one of the wheel bearings is bad, or too much bearing play is present (due to not tightening the stub axle nut correctly), that the stub axle moves too much in / out, up / down at either end...which could affect the spacer.

You can apply a light layer of grease on the stub axle shaft... but if enough grease was placed between the bearings, that grease will do the job.

I always feel a little play on rear wheel bearings of Vanagon's... the MOT guy might have been a new guy or jealous of your T3.

@@EXOVCDS Thanks, I since spoke to the older guy who runs the garage and he said I don't need to change them.

Just the older stuff.

Hi Justin... these bearing last a long time! I think I only ever changed 5 sets so far.

Replace them.

Yes... it needs to, to account for wheel travel as the wheel goes up & down. Old / high mileage joints / shafts will have more freeplay (easier to move) than new joints / shafts... this is normal, but too loose is not good.

@@EXOVCDS follow up Q, if my rear passenger side has an inch of play, yet the drivers side has almost none, is that still acceptable? And if not, what is the correct repair? Repack the boot, or would I have to actually replace the whole axle on one side? Thank you so much!!!!!

The loose side is loose due to age / wear. Packing new grease might take away a bit of that looseness. The side that's tight, might be tight because the bearings have no play, or because the bearings are dry (grease has dried up). In both cases, if it hasn't been done in a while (every 5 to 8 years), remove the shafts... clean & inspect the joints and assemble with new grease (if the bearings are not pitted).

@@EXOVCDS Right on, I really appreciate your advice!!!

Non-tapered roller bearings. Hub slides on nice & easy once splines are cleaned. Torque is 370 ft lbs. The inner races get squished against the spacer & hub... the tighter the better, or the nut comes loose as you saw.

Non-tapered wheel bearings? What takes the axial loads?

Garth Goldberg The inner bearing is caged / has sides around the balls, both inner & outer races... guess that takes the load. The outer bearing inner race was free to move, so it moves along with the hub as the hub is torqued into place against the spacer and the inner race of the inner bearing (which is surrounding the balls). I'm no engineer (I should have paid attention in school & during apprenticeship training). Book says install and tighten to 370 ft lbs.

370ft-lb=500Nm! Do you or the shop have a torque wrench that goes that high?

Garth Goldberg I have one that goes to 600. We use the impact on Vanagon rear bearings. Good und Tight is all it needs. Have never had a comeback.

I always add a bit before the install... good & tight, yes!

I need a 3 meter long bar or longer to loosen the axle nut and more heat

The bearings come with outer & inner races. The inner bearing is one "piece"... you can not remove the inner race without breaking the bearing. The outer bearing has an inner race that is a sleeve... inner & outer bearings are NEW.

Stuart W a little play is normal.

Thanks, I might just take it for the MOT inspection and hope for the best.

I don't know what you mean by "the pedal jumps".

@@EXOVCDS sorry, I wasn't clear, when I brake the pedal goes up and down and I hear a noise like "cra cra" from the rear side, thanks, have a nice day

Check the brake shoes, they might not be sitting correctly against the brake wheel cylinders. Also make sure that the shoes are adjusted correctly (turn the adjustment until the shoes make slight contact with the drums).

The spacer is just a spacer... it sits between the inner & outer bearing. It is surrounded by grease.

Thomas EXOVCDS thank you so much. I am recently putting them on on my buggy which has a 1971 bus type 2. And I just couldn’t find the bearings

Just to be sure we are talking about the same thing... send me an email with pictures (if you have them) or tell me which part of the video. fkh161@fkh161.ca

Thomas EXOVCDS I sended you some pictures by email. “Vw bearings”

The top is always thinner than the bottom because that's where the wheel cylinder spreads them apart... still had enough life for a while.

A big torque wrench.

@@EXOVCDS i can’t find one to go that high. Most I find is 250ft/pound. I have a 46mm 1” socket from my beetle but I can’t find the wrench.

@@zoti this is what I use... it goes to 600 ft lbs www.princessauto.com/en/3-4-in-dr-heavy-duty-click-type-torque-wrench/product/PA0008002384

Thank you for watching!

Vanagon's have 46.

Thomas EXOVCDS probably messed it upbeith the beetle,but thanks !

Thanks for the info. There are many things that I could / should mention... but since I record while I am at work, I can't take that extra time. Adding the "extra" information during editing would be a possibility... but time is a factor as well. If more people worked with a service manual, then less would need explaining. Cases such as yours are rare and not everyone (including myself) would have noticed, unless things had "assembled" too easily. Thank you for watching!

@@EXOVCDS Thanks for the reply. I go for the 500.000 mark. Besides that: first and original CU - engine block, 1 half and 1 complete rebuilt now. Groeten uit NL.

volkswagen.7zap.com/en/usa/vanagon/va/1988-78/5/501-54000/

www.germanautosupply.com/SCHAEFFLER/34/211501283D

www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/211501283D.htm?pn=211-501-283-D-INT

vwparts.aircooled.net/Wheel-Bearing-Rear-1971-92-Type-2-211-501-283D-p/211-501-283d.htm

Many more options available.

Thank you and thank you for watching!

You need to loosen the hand brake, install the new brake shoe, install the drum, adjust the brake shoes so that there is a little bit of drag on the drum, then you adjust the hand brake until you get 3 to 5 clicks. Release the hand brake and check that the drums are free to turn. Follow the brake cables to the middle of the car... there is a 10mm nut that you turn, to loosen or tighten the cables.

im getting one click now ,bad?

Did you loosen the hand brake before adjusting the shoes? Are the drums dragging? You can leave it at 1... as the brakes wear, you will get more clicks.

Thomas EXOVCDS checked it 3 clicks ,but they should be seized (not 100/100 something like 80/100 seized)

Κώστας Λεούσης new shoes might take a while before they grab well. Don't adjust the shoes or the parking brake too tight... or things will overheat. Leave it at 3 clicks (as long as you can still turn the wheels when the hand brake is off) and let the brakes wear-in. If you don't drive it much / far... then it will take some time before things might get better.

He charges too much for PR work... the photos he gives away for free! =)

He should do a video intro for me... You're watching EXOVCDS and it's Hammer Time!

+STEVE ROB Mainly from the stub axle splines rubbing against the hub splines. The outer bearing was dry though.

Without seeing it / checking it myself... I can't really say. Something has to be worn. If not the bearings then possibly the housing (allowing the bearings to shift).

@@EXOVCDS Thanks appreciate the reply. Was thinking maybe the sleeve is worn allowing the movement. Will measure it on next strip down. I'll let you know in case someone else asks you. Thanks.

Geht auch mit hammer und passende scheibe. www.lislecorp.com/media/products/12600c_FA030A064235A.jpg?dimensions=500x220

Thank you for watching!

Je suis désolé, je ne comprends pas. J'utilise google translate pour traduire.

Remember the Jack-Hammer in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pd6egqeox6-nqoE.html That's what one of the guys was tightening.

Sounds like a 3/4" or 1" gun.. Wow!! What's the torque sequence?

StopDropandLOL Was a 1/2" gun... he wasn't using a torque sequence. Was tightening away until the cotter pin hole in the stub axle lined-up with the nut. Torque spec is 500 Nm / 370 ft lbs

So how long of a torque wrench do you need to get 370ftlbs out of it? Or do you guys use strictly the impact for that one?

The gun sounded a lot bigger than it did too haha.

I should be married and have 2 kids and a dog... life is hard. =)

Yes... or when the face starts to turn red. =)

Спасибо за просмотр

Instead of posting "I can do it better" comments under videos... record & post videos yourself. Oh wait, you don't want to deal with smartasses that post "I can do it better than you". Rest assured, no threads were harmed.

If you don't know how to use a socket & breaker bar... you have bigger problems than not seeing me use them.

Just for you! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e8iWaLektZ_Lmo0.html

@@EXOVCDS It's quite well known that it takes a 46mm socket, and is very difficult to remove hence skipping over it may have led others to think it was super easy to remove.