I've been battling with this issue since I started chain waxing 3 years ago. Some advice and warnings for winter chain waxers: 1) Consider gently wiping the excess wax from your chain as soon as you pull it out of the wax pot (a very quick single wipe). A thick layer of wax is going to be really difficult to break free in sub-freezing weather. It's possible you lose a bit of weather protection, but that's better than having your chain be frozen solid. 2) Watch out when going back-and-forth between warm and cold environments! I loosened a newly waxed chain over a broom handle in my cold garage, put the bike inside my warm car, then pulled it out for a sub-freezing gravel ride. Result: My chain was solid! I could not use the smallest 4 cogs because it would shift uncontrollably. It took about 40 miles (on a 60 mile ride) before the chain was running fully smoothly! 3) It takes a solid 20 minutes on the trainer before a freshly waxed chain is "safe" to ride in sub-freezing temperatures. And even then, it will be fairly stiff for the first part of your ride. The cold temperatures stiffen the wax again, but not to a degree that your bike will be unrideable or have major shifting problems. 4) Drip waxes are your friend in winter. ZFC's advice to use a hybrid approach is a good one. I try to use a drip wax (Silca in this case) 3 - 4 times between immersive waxings in the winter. If there's momentary warm weather, that's a good time to install a freshly waxed chain. The annoying part for drip wax is that I have to bring the bike *inside* so the chain and drip wax are both nice and warm first. 5) Full fenders make a big difference for days when the roads are wet. They keep your chain much drier, so you don't need to re-wax or re-apply drip lube as often. They are pretty critical for being able to use wax-based products on my daily commuter bike. 6) If you commute daily in truly wet weather (real rain) or slushy and salty snow, then maybe you'd be better off riding a cheap bike, with a cheap drivetrain, and grinding it into dust using wet lube. At some point, you just need to get to work -- and not spend your entire life maintaining waxed chains. OVERALL: Using chain wax in the winter is considerably more annoying, especially if your normal bike storage location is unheated (e.g. shed or unheated garage). But it's not impossible, depending on your situation. PS: Thanks for the video! My own tips, in bullet-point form, are above. It is painfully earned knowledge, unfortunately! At some point, I had to admit that a drip wax was going to be critical to making chain waxing less painful in the winter.
@uncleants8 ай бұрын
I use my bike for my daily commute, but its a fairly short ride. A couple or three miles either way. This is England and roads are often wet even if it's not raining. I run two immersive waxed chains but if I were to change chains every wet ride at this time of year I'd literally be changing and/or rewaxing daily some weeks. Not really practical. I don think a wipe down gets the chain dry enough. If that's all I do then some surface rust on the insides of plates and the parts of rollers between plates inevitably happens as wiping doesn't get down between links. Particularly where the chain sits in the chain rings or sprockets. Its unsightly but it does disappear after a little use. This may be a bad idea ... but I'll run it past you anyway. I've taken to giving the chain a quick flush with IPA post wet rides, using a small squirty bottle and a clean cloth. My thinking is that the IPA will flush out the water then evaporate. the wax isn't soluble in IPA so shouldn't be affected. It seems to work. I've had zero issues with surface rust since doing this. Of course it may be doing horrible unknown things to my chain for all I know but it doesn't seem to be. Seems to run fine. Thoughts?
@HUNHali8 ай бұрын
I have pretty much the same daily commute in Hungary - less rainy days overall, but these days there are sequential wet days. I too have the same problem, wiping cannot get the water out from the crevices, so the chain starts corroding during the day while the bike is stored, because the high humidity does not let it dry. My solution was to just take off the chain and bring it inside with me to my workplace to dry. I'm using a single speed, so my quick link is reusable. I only use immersive waxing, and I don't even need to rewax the chain after every wet day, if you quickly dry it, it can last you multiple days of wet riding. The only inconvenience is that you need to take it on and off every time it gets wet (I can imagine it's a lot more work in the UK), and if you are using a regular groupset, it means you're going through a lot of quick links over time. Regarding the IPA wipe, I think if it prevents corrosion, it's the perfect idea, even I might try it. I've done some testing with IPA, it does not dissolve wax at all, when it's cold. It has quite high boiling point, methanol or ethanol in theory evaporates faster. The bad only thing with this method is the cost of the solvent, I think. But of course, you can save time not taking the chain on and off.
@uncleants8 ай бұрын
@@HUNHali it probably depends where in the world you are, but I got a litre of 99.9% IPA for about £7 delivered from Amazon. 1 litre will last a long time, so not too expensive. I'd take the chain in, but I'll be honest I just want to get home after my shift which ends at 10 in the evening and don't need the hassle, but I have q connex link on it so probably wouldn't be too hard if it does get to be an issue, but I've not had any issues with it rusting in the bike stand yet ... it seems to be more an issue sat in my hallway at home?
@HUNHali8 ай бұрын
@@uncleants Yeah if it works, it's a good solution. The evaporation of water, and also the solvent depends on humidity, temperature, airflow and the boiling point of the solvent (or the solvent-water mixture). Ideally you could blast the chain with a hairdryer for a minute and it dries instantly (that's what I do when I get home after a wet ride). Of course at my workplace it's not an option in the bike storage area. If you still experience corrosion with IPA you could try acetone, it has a lot lower boiling point and still quite cheap. That does not dissolve wax either when cold.
@zerofrictioncycling9928 ай бұрын
Yep for sure if that is working for you, and is cheap enough to do - it can help remove some surface crap. Definitely re waxing each wet ride like that is not practical - just note that the crap that is pressed into the wax coating from your pedalling load will not be removed by the IPA, as it not doing anything to the wax. So there will always be a trade off of some cycling with abrasive stuff in your lubricant, vs what is practical re resetting. it isnt worse for you if its over multiple days vs someone doing same kms in a single ride etc.
@uncleants8 ай бұрын
@@zerofrictioncycling992 I can live with the contamination for the distance I'm looking at I think. Two weeks of wet commute (which I've just had) is still only 50 miles or so with a chain swap thus weekend. I figure it's still going to be better than a wet lube in this regard so long as rust can be kept at bay ... which the IPA seems to be doing fine with.
@ElevationEveryWeekend8 ай бұрын
I have been using Silca Super Secret exclusively on my Borealis Flume fat bike and it has been great almost a year in now. Lots of time in the snow and cold here in Colorado.
@rafaeldegiacomoaraujo87788 ай бұрын
Mspeed breaking in manually just before the chain goes stiff has worked well for me. Just doing regular baths with old wax. In Feb I'll refresh the wax.
@Blueboyvideo8 ай бұрын
Definitely appreciate the wealth of information and how concise you are and to the point. Thanks!
@zerofrictioncycling9928 ай бұрын
i should frame your comment - i can count on one hand how often i am told i am concise hahahahaha
@drivemenuts30118 ай бұрын
It's great to see the progress of your data being compiled into a calculation. It would be great to see a personalised ability drop down box. I have run a new Ultegra chain and cassette since the beginning of the London Summer where I have accumulated 5000km using only Effetto Flower Power. I've been measuring the chain length every 1000km since the beginning with a combination of adjustable chain gauge and verniers. During 5000km of riding, it has gone from 0.25% stretch at new to 0.30% stretch now at 5000km. That is 10% of the chains life used in 5000km, with a projection of 20% at 10,000km. I ride in the Surrey hills, where 20% of the time it is wet or raining. Your online calculator calculates 0.98 chains used at 10,000km vs ‘my reality’ of 0.2. 0.98/0.2 equals a ~500% discrepancy (not an error). I put the difference down to power. Your tests are done at 250 watts, while I trundle along at 150 watts. The basic bearing life equation calculates life for different loads with (C/P)^n, where in this case, C is the reference power of 250 watts, and P is my average power of 150 watts, and n is the exponent relating to the type of bearing (n=3 for ball bearings and 3.3333 for roller bearings). Assuming a bike chain behaves like a roller bearing, you could try (250w/150w)^3.333 = 550%. This is slightly too high, it needs to be a 500% life extension for a reduce power of 150 watts. Trying n = 3.15, (250w/150w)^3.15 = 500%. That is about right. I’m surprised at how well it works. My total actual 'accumulated' costs for 0.2 chains at 10,000km will be £46 per 10,000 when using the onmi component costs and calculation method. Your test data has 0.98 chains used at 10,000km (for 250 watts) with an omni calc cost of £138 per 10,000km. If I averaged 400watts, (200w/400w)^3.15 = 23%, I would churn through 0.98/23% = 4.3 chains per 10,000km with a total cost of £559. If the omni calculator had a 'rider ability' drop down box with the calculation above, it would produce running cost ranges from £21 per 10000km for a 100watt rider to £559 for a 400 watt Tour de France Pro, for the exact same bike and lubricant. It would be a reasonably accurate personalised result. The reasonable exponent of 3.15 above may be a fluke, and only applies if your test is equivalent to my riding, which it won't be. You would need to sacrifice a chain by testing it at say 125watts, and then do the trial and error calc above to find the exponent. Doing a second chain at say 400 watts would make it even more accurate. The resulting exponent would be accurate for all lubricants. The simple bearing equation assumes zero contamination so the method above provides an estimate, which will provide a massive improvement in accuracy, over not using it. If you were to get an exponent of 2.0, the price range is £33 to £320 for extreme ends of ability. You won’t get an exponent that low.
@PhilRotz8 ай бұрын
Thanks for the cold weather guidance, Adam! 👊
@better.better7 ай бұрын
you COULD do some cold weather testing in a walk-in freezer. many places in the US treat roads with salt and sand in the winter. during storms it mixes with the slush, and my bike is covered during commutes, and even after the roads are clear, it's put into the air enough that my eyes burn from it if I don't wear ski goggles, so it's definitely contaminating my chain, so that would be the type of winter contaminant you should test with.
@zerofrictioncycling9927 ай бұрын
ha yes sort of.... would be still quite some fun to mimic commuting in the salted snow! Chat to mspeedwax direct as they do this and know a lot about freezing and waxing and snow and salt, as well as they are mad cx racers and race through frozen mud and snow etc - if ever have any more detail questions re wax / chain lubrication and freezing environments - john thomson at mspeedwax is one of the most experience people on the planet (and a great guy).
@michaelpeace12018 ай бұрын
Love the rex .I have waxs a dh and xc and 2bmx chains
@Al_Gepe8 ай бұрын
"This one will be a short one" publishes a +50min video Gotta love it! 😍
@zerofrictioncycling9928 ай бұрын
i have a condition......
@chris1275cc8 ай бұрын
I've not seen any long term negatives using Hot Melt in winter other than the drivetrain acts/sounds (but is not) kind of dry for the first few Km on a fresh waxing. You can mitigate it a little in the same way you can quiet down a fresh waxing if it bothers you by applying a small mount of drip wax like Banana Slip All weather (just one drop per roller like with wet lube, anymore is a waste) right before a ride. It won't do anything really because it hardly gets chance to soak into the chain but it shuts things up and makes it feel (probably psychological to be honest) more free until things "break in". I don't bother, I have enough confidence in the process at this point and knowing its working is enough.
@danielthompson11238 ай бұрын
I found that running a cold chain under a blow dryer warms it up enough to get good penetration.
@glennmorgan86918 ай бұрын
Great info as always Adam thank you and cheers!!
@better.better7 ай бұрын
I've been using Tri-flow Dry this summer, had the same issue with that as you described for wax in the cold, it just solidified on top of the chain, and I had to shake it constantly to even get it out of the bottle, so I've switched to the wet version. I go through much less with the wet, I like it better than the Finishline Dry, and MUC Off, and I've seen other people say the same on other lube testing videos but I don't see it on your list, certainly way better than White Lightning... even the WD-40 bicycle specific wet lube is better than that
@zerofrictioncycling9927 ай бұрын
Hey! Yes testing it is just so hard to get through the thousands of products - and i have to be very picky with what i test. the machines are pretty booked with testing for MFG, and the machine i keep free for testing of my own curiosity - i normally alternate between testing a product that has a genuine chance of being a potential top product that we may look to recommend and if so, possibly stock, and testing a product for which we have some possible concerns re performance matching marketing. Legacy stuff like tri-flow just is unlikely to make the long list anytime soon. Original tri flow really will not remotely be competitive i do not think, and its likely also not super environmentally vs the good products found over the last 5+ years. Its a bit like your nokia 8250 isnt really a match computing power wise with an iphone 14 or samsung galaxy s23. Things have really moved forward in the last decades, stuff relying on brand name alone from 20+ years ago - the odds it would remotely be in the ballpark of the likes of synergetic, rex black diamond or domestique, revolubes, NFS etc etc - it is just so slim i cant risk wasting the machine time and my time (each test is a big time resource committment) just to plonk another meh "its a lubricant" in circa 30th place on the leage table etc. Certainly in the workshop days no one but no one had impressive kms vs wear on their chain using tri flow or wd-40 thats for sure. If you get a genuine 8000km+ to a genuine 0.5% wear measure using shimano Tl-cn-42 chain checker on a particular tri flow or wd option pls email me to let me know for a closer look!
@stuff4168 ай бұрын
I've found Gulf brand canning wax is softer than Silca hot wax for winter riding. The chains are noticeably less stiff after hot waxing making break in quick and easy even in sub freezing conditions and snow. For riding in snow with a fat bike wet lubes create a huge mess since they get wet and leak out. Wet conditions and wax have been zero issue since there generally aren't any contaminants in the snow to grind away the wax
@zerofrictioncycling9928 ай бұрын
Excellent - thanks for the real world input re gulf and cold, gulf has always been the go to DIY wax base recommendation. If you get to playing, wonder how a half / half Gulf + HM mix will go as then you get a bunch of the wear protective modifiers mixed in.
@Leo-gt1bx8 ай бұрын
I have been using normal candles was and food grade in a mix. In the cold months I use normal candle was as it seems to be softer.
@zerofrictioncycling9926 ай бұрын
yep the candle wax will have other stuff in it like scents, and can have soy or palm oil. Thats cool for making it soft. That may not make it overall awesome (ie higher chance of getting gunky, and dirtier much more quickly). It will probably still beat a lot of drip lubricants just simply because of the flush cleaning nature of immersive waxing vs leaving a lot more contamination inside chain by just dripping a small amount of lubricant over the top of it. Ie i could take a middle of the road drip lube, but every re lube do that immersive vs drip circa 5 ml on over 100+ links of chain and thus circa 0.05ml new lube per link over the top of whatever level of abrasive lube is now inside chain, and the immersive re lubed drip lube chain will do a whole, whole lot better getting a 500ml bath to be swished in. So your candle waxing will be like that. Immersive waxing overall just has that huge contamination reset advantage. So if that has been working great re low wear and clean enough - then for sure you dont need to change to anything more fancy.
@mtbboy19935 ай бұрын
I came across a Instagram post by Borshield t9, I forgot to mention this but the post reminded me. I see it should handle sub zero temps, I see a rider tested it in around - 17c. No idea about the wear or how good it stays on. I knew of this lube but not tried it. Ive heard great things over the years but don't remember what.
@clintmichigan91128 ай бұрын
Looking forward to the shonky awards
@KaOznor8 ай бұрын
MSpeedwax worked perfectly on a 2h -14°c ride today 🥶
@Buckets413698 ай бұрын
Did your legs though?
@RJ_Groot8 ай бұрын
thanks for this.
@MatteBailey8 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video! On a waxed chain, do you think that a thorough wipe with a gear wipe and drying with a microfiber towel would be enough to prevent rust after a wet ride? I imagine it probably depends on how wet of a ride it was.
@zerofrictioncycling9928 ай бұрын
yes and also how far into a wax treatment. There is no real golden rule - ie i can ride in some light spray on first ride post re wax, and pretty much always fine. Similar ride when chain is closer to wanting a re wax - maybe not so much. But heavy wet then pretty much one should plan to re wax. Not sure re gear wipes but it will likely help a lot. Some find wiping with isopropyl alcohol really helps as removes most of the surface rust catalysts that maybe there plus the water, - but such including gear wipes may still leave chain metal open and unprotected. It is always going to be best practice post such a wipe to add a quick coating of wax compatible lubricant if one is not going to re wax, that takes 20 more secs to do, and ensures all is protected + more lubricant back in for next ride.
@MatteBailey8 ай бұрын
@@zerofrictioncycling992 got it, thanks! With drip wax, how dry does the chain need to be before applying after a wet ride? Is drying with a microfiber towel good enough, or do I need to let it air dry for a while first?
@zerofrictioncycling9928 ай бұрын
@@MatteBailey Depends a little on the main goal of the re lube - if its just to protect chain, then apply after wiping chain. If you need a good re treatment for a longish ride next ride, - if the chain is still wet inside, this will dilute the lubricant being applied, and increase the set time. So if you had a decent ride next day, especially one that was also wet - applying a wax emulsion lubricant (which will be using water as the carrier) to a wet chain, that will for sure impact the treatment performance next day in the wet, vs drying chain with a hairdyer or heat gun before applying which will ensure proper application of a good coating and normal set times. its a good question, there are a couple ins and outs on just that simple little scenario - but if you are understanding what the impact will be to the lubricant being applied and the set time if still wet, and what you upcoming next ride is looking like - hopefully that will help re beauty i can just whack some on whilst wet or it will for sure be better to dry and apply
@parasdds8 ай бұрын
Love your channel and content. Question: Is the Mariposa sunflower wax compatible with the hybrid approach that you mentioned in this video or does it not adhere to immersive waxes like MS Speedwax?
@zerofrictioncycling9928 ай бұрын
alas no not really, which is a shame as it is a great product overall. but the sunflower seed wax base is quite oily - when use with waxing - both wax treatment and subsequent FP applications feel and sound dry very quickly - they just appear to muck up each others bond to chain - they are very different wax bases that just dont play that well together
@mtbboy19937 ай бұрын
I live in Norway so it gets cold in the winter, low sub zero temps, bu ti e had issues with Smoove, in around - 7c it causes the chain to stiffen up so much it causes shifting issues. Iv ehad to stop using it in the winter. Do you know why it happens? Smoove claims it hsould work, but it clearly does not for me. I've degrease the chain and used only Smoove for a long time before the winter. Bike was stored indoors in room temperature in the living room. But Muc Off wet and Weldite wet Extreme work flawlessly even in - 10c.
@zerofrictioncycling9927 ай бұрын
Hey johannes thanks for sharing experience - and yes A LOT of lubricants will have an interesting time in very cold conditions. Many wax emulsion lubricants like say smoove - their properties will change at those temps - really smoove should know more re how it will perform in X as they sell to all around the world - so its a bit disappointing if the response was "it should be fine" - vs yes below X temp its an issue you may need a different product or here is what you can add to keep viscosity ok etc. I dont know much about weldite, and muc-off - even if it stays in a state where its not freezing up - just keep a close eye on wear as all the M-O lubricants i have tested are right up there as the highest wear rate (and its like, HIGH!). Just because you have a liquid masquerading as a lubricant on your chain doesnt mean its not in fact acting like a bit of liquid abrasive. I would say that if a wet lubricant is working in your temps better than wax, then trying a proven top wet lubricant would be a great place to start - perhaps check out REX domestique or Black diamond - Rex are in finland so in your neighbourhood and so the makers are pretty used to riding in the snow, have tested a lot for REX and they make great chain lubricants.
@dawn_rider7 ай бұрын
@@zerofrictioncycling992 Just watched Josh at Silcas vid on layering up kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gqiTotqilZjUiKs.html . He shows a diagram of the micro beads of emulsified wax. Surely some water is going to be trapped in between these and this is going to freeze and stiffen the chain? I know that in the case of @mtbboy1993 the issue concerns Smoove but the carrier is water which is also the case with Silca Super Secret drip. It's likely that any emulsifying agent will slightly depress the water freezing temperature. I also note in kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gqiTotqilZjUiKs.html and even more obviously in kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qbmajdOY2726qnU.html Silca is not too bothered about chains being dry before immersion in hot wax. These videos also imply that the wax is > 100C by saying that the water bubbles out. I would think that water would hinder the wax adhering to the chain metal. I wonder if lube manufacturers use water because of the cost or because solid micro beads of wax perform better in forming a wax layer than fully solublised wax ?
@zerofrictioncycling9926 ай бұрын
@@dawn_rider Yes all very good thoughts there! Re water as carrier i believe that overall a) it is the most cost effective re emulsifying wax and b) it avoids a whole host of problems that can come with doing so if say solvents - ie Original Formual UFO drip was a pain in the butt as it was thus classed as dangerous goods for air travel, so it could only be sent around the world and to customers via sea and road freight, and above x volume even for road required DG processing which is very expensive and slow, and the market has largely (thankfully) moved away from purhcasing products that use volatile solvents as a carrier. However you are correct, it is unlikely that all water carrier will evap. the impact to the wax emulsion lubricants in freezing temps is still something that needs a lot more time and assessment (and really good real world data from many people over a number of years - we need more people using X product riding X conditions to track chain wear and kms and treatment lifespans - but overall - i think at this time its safe to say all are impacted in a negative performance way). And correct i cant remember which vid it was but i countered that info - it has always been mspeedwax and zfc position to dry chain before waxing. In aus, and likely many other parts of the world, wax is likely to be under 100c. Mspeedwax have tested and found that after X waxings of wet chains, despite having wax on for hours and allowing to cool then cutting open, they found puddles of water in the wax. From ZFC - every year we have a handful of cases of premature wear of chains for waxers. Almost every time (as in about 99%) - it will be a road cyclist who for some reason is boiling water flush rinsing chain every time before they re wax. This does nothing but harm (only introduce water if chains has already seen a wet ride, then DRY before waxing). The premature wear is solved next chains when the boiling water flush rinsing and wet waxing is stopped. So ZFC and Mspeedwax do advise very differently to silca on this point.
@fleurdelispens8 ай бұрын
Now I want to know about the opposite. How do wax chains handle extreme 40°C or hotter temps? Do they liquify a bit too mych to last? Or are there other issues that pop up?
@zerofrictioncycling9928 ай бұрын
Hey there - that is something i have a bit more experience with - it gets pretty hot here in adelaide in summer and whilst not many of us do long hard rides in 40+, i have certainly had some hot hard days and races over the years (ie 36+, full sun). Also i do some heat session when i can for heat adaption - we have a sauna that i can fit bike in! i do light sessions at 50 to 55dg c for 45mins+ if i dont die. to date, have not notice any impact to treatment performance or lifespan in the hottest days / races / many heat ergos on a treatment etc. There would be a temp where lifespan could be an issue, but its probably going to be above 50c i reckon. Might be a topic have to revisit soon with global warming hahahaha
@peibol248 ай бұрын
If riding in wet, and following the hybrid method (immerse waxing after 500 km or so and drip on wax after each wet ride), do I still need to flush off the chain with boiling water before rewaxing? Thanks.
@zerofrictioncycling9928 ай бұрын
its a balance. Water will bring a lot of crap in, and adding lube over the top wont remove that like re waxing will. Boiling water flush rinse before waxing will help reduce the amount of crap from chain being brought into wax pot, keeping wax in there more amazing for more longerer :). But again, whether one re does post any wet ride, or just when they can - it is a balance of what is optimal vs what is practical. The good news, is that even if one is erring on the slacker side, they will still be way ahead vs just drip only options, so one shouldnt stress too much (unless VERY expensive bits, in which case - 2 chains on rotation to help keep more towards optimal path is definitely best if one can).
@Justmarcusdave8 ай бұрын
Minus 5 today, I took the car😂
@markooivo8 ай бұрын
Have you Adam checked out REX's Arctic lube? It has some additives against wet winter conditions and I have had good experience with it on customer's bikes who do not take care of the drivetrain :)
@zerofrictioncycling9926 ай бұрын
hey sorry delay i missed this one initially! no not yet - Rex have tied up a test machine for quite some time now but they havent sent me that one, and i cant put another machine on Rex atm as too busy on other tests! From what i have seen of rex over the years though they are really very genuine re their marketing claims can be backed. They test a lot themselves, are in finland so a lot of very cold cycling - they are a brand you can put a lot of faith behind the claims as they work super hard to deliver and get independent testing to back where possible (like the amount of testing they do with ZFC - but i dont have cold room! :))
@nationsnumber1chump8 ай бұрын
I run rock n roll gold for simplicity only in dry on road conditions and have gotten about 6500 - 7500 miles. By your calculator in mixed conditions you only get 4250 miles before you need a new chain. Is it different for on-road dry conditions? I rub off and re-lube basically every other ride but our roads also get heavy winter sand and junk here in Kansas and I avg 35 miles so early spring I get alot less on a chain than I do at the end of summer
@lesleysmith56238 ай бұрын
I also use Rock’nRoll Gold lube here in salty, damp UK and get similar mileage before replacing chain before 0.5% wear. Follow your channel, and tempted by wax,but man, I wish your videos were shorter. You could say same thing in 15 minutes.
@zerofrictioncycling9928 ай бұрын
I swear i try. I apologise, i certainly have a condition. I am going to try on some vids in 2024 to try and get some more prep time to script and cover better, as is i just chat through the topic with zero prep time. but i need to try to get more concise for sure, just this leopard has a hard time changing its spots without some real focus time and effort that i gotta try and find next year. Thanks for bearing with me thus far!
@zerofrictioncycling9928 ай бұрын
thats pretty impressive for RNR - what chain/s you & lesley running? Pre discovering wax in my earlier cycling days - i also used RNR gold here in Adelaide. I used 9 chains over my first 3 years and attained between 4000 and 6500kms to a genuine 0.5% wear. This is in the ballpark of the control test result, which is a bit harsher than most road cyclists riding due to the level of contamination in block 2 and block 4. A control test protocol can never be an exact replica for anyone's actual cycling - and whilst it needs to be ball park realistic of course for the cost to run modelling - its other main purpose is to benchmark. Ie - in that test, that was the result. In the same test - X lubricant achieved Y level greater or lesser. So comparatively in your own cycling, if you are attaining a lot more kms for that lubricant vs the control test, then you can expect the same for the higher performing lubricants tested. Also highlighting the challenges of testing matching any persons real world - over the workshop years we certainly saw a lot of wear rates on RNR much greater than mine or yours - ie well past 0.5% in circa 3000km etc. Different levels of contamination exposure, average power, power profile, maintenance, application frequency etc etc - The testing is really aiming for that approx middle ground.
@TnFruit8 ай бұрын
Lol: You chose Muc-Off Hydrodynamic which is of the oil based type. This lubricant is a BAD choice 🚴🏼. Using Muc-Off Hydrodynamic for 10,000 kilometers in dry offroad conditions will cost you 1372.88€ on average 💵. That includes: 12.38 chains for 433.13€ total [35€/unit], 6.19 cassettes for 433.13€ total [70€/unit], 2.06 chainrings for 433.13€ total [210€/unit] Never ever! You should recalculate your calculator. Really!
@TnFruit8 ай бұрын
I will get through this with 4 chains, 2 cassettes and maybe two 1* chainring. And midrange chainring won't cost me 433€. If it's Turkish Lira, then your right. 😢
@neutronpcxt3728 ай бұрын
His calculations aren't wrong. It's just that there are multiple factors to take into consideration: the Australian dollar being considerably weaker than the US dollar, Adam using expensive components because of their heightened durability and the fact that worn chains filled with grit absolutely demolish cassettes, which massively increases replacement intervals.
@TnFruit8 ай бұрын
@@neutronpcxt372 I choose mid-range and € is not $ 😅
@zerofrictioncycling9928 ай бұрын
i explained on the vid exactly the point you are making - in real world you would never actually do above, because if you were actually tracking wear rate and replacing chains at 0.5% as you should be, then you would very quickly swap lubricants. What happens is people may be changing the components much less frequently than the modelling calc based on the ACTUAL wear rates from the control test, just your parts are vastly more worn when you do, and one has been riding a clapped out shit drivetrain for ages. Listen to that section again - i take pains to explain the calc issues with poor performing lubricants.
@TnFruit8 ай бұрын
@@zerofrictioncycling992 well, 4 Mid-range Chains will cost not more than 100€, 2 mid-range cassettes will cost not more than 150€ and 2 mid-range chainrings also. This is all together 400€/10.000km incl. Muc Off oil. Don't know where your extra 900€ come from. For 900€ I can buy an extra mid range groupset, like 105 12 speed mechanical.