Thanks!

Kick Me Thanks!

webslinger2011 my name salman

Thanks!

Feed Pump liner in correct orientation? Does pressurized fuel come out when cranking?

Check the overflow valve. It should be placed on the top cover and not on the inlet side of the pump.

Iv marc Have you resolved it?

That fuel squirting can be misleading. It’s not volume, it’s pressure. If you,re getting fuel out of the port, then it’s pumping fuel. If the pump is on the engine, put the high psi line on, attach to injector, see if it gets wet at the injector. If so, tighten the nuts on all the lines and crank engine. If it’s putting fuel in the engine, you should see smoke at the exhaust.

Common wear items on the ve pump are, gov weights, drive shaft bushing, throttle bushing.there’s a big soft plug on the head that’s supposed to be replaced every time the pump is overhauled. These are about the best, most durable pumps out there. Usually they came in because of leaking, not performance.

Did you bleed the injector lines? You might have an airlock?

Did you ever figure out the problem as I'm having same issue on my skid steer and I don't think anything in that part needs to be clocked/ timed

Dear Sir, I have a problem with calibration of bosch pump with the engine... I saw a lot of videos with dial gauge calibration while the pump is fully attached to engine, and I don't find that as a good way to do it. In videos they find one zero point (of four) and assume that this is the wright one and rotate pump for 0,8mm front while the engine is in zero point. I would appreciate any comment, regards.

Pump has to be timed on the engine. Zero point on the pump means the plunger is at it's lowest position. You will notice the gauge moves in advance then retards towards the lowest point when you rotate the engine's crankshaft. The moment it starts to move in advance is the zero point. Procedure is often stated in the manual. Some need to put a spacer if equipped with a cold start device.

I will set engin to zero, then loose the fuel pipes on engine and see what's happening when turning bosch pump ... i will roughly set it on first , then adjust it by gauge on 0,8 mm forward

It wears over time. That's why you must follow as per calibration data. Thanks!

mic the broken button order the same size, if there is little power at full throttle and fuel pressure is at its max, order the next size in button (shim ) .02 mm thick. that will bring back fuel delivery at injectors(assuming injectors are good). saves time and money for shop to repair it. 1500 is our norm charge here.

Thanks!

Check for a loose wire on the shut-off solenoid. Did you put an 8mm shim on the cold start device before placing it back? There would be a problem if you forced it back in.

Broke the small round spacer on top of the plunger? Replacing it would require taking K and KF measurement (Technical stuff based on Calibration data). If you're referring to the copper gasket on the other end(on the 3 sided plug of the rotorhead), There's plenty you can buy from diesel injection shops.

You're welcome.

Iv marc Too much thickness will damage the rotor. Too little will lag injection timing. I suggest watching my other video explaining the inner workings of the pump.

Iv marc Proper measurement of K and KF dimension must be observed to select the right thickness needed. It would be best to let diesel shops to fix it. Doin it your way is not advisable.As always, I won't be held liable to other people's actions.

Thanks!

Might be something wrong between the governor lever and control sleeve on the hydraulic head. It should slide freely during assembly. Also, Tiny specs of dirt inside is bad for the pump.

plungers are stuck

@@johnnybegoodyeah Solenoid plunger could also be sticking.

Repair center's rely on a database to locate specific parts for a particular pump. It would be hard to find(if not impossible) all the needed parts for the conversion. The pump housing in particular is designed for one direction only. Either fixed for right or left rotation. Rotor head has a right or left orientation as well.

@@webslinger2011 thanks for the info.

I assume it's a VE pump. Check the stop solenoid at the back of the pump. Disconnect and supply power. If you hear a clicking sound, then it's working.

is there enough power to turn on a test light?

Worn O-ring can cause a leak. If the pump hasn’t been serviced in years, chances are the seals are worn.

Iv marc Open all the lines to the injectors. Crank engine to see if fuel comes out of the pump. Hope it's not 180 degrees out of sync.

If the engine sat for a very long time, these VE pumps get rusted internally. Wear is another factor, but mainly dirt or water contamination can cause the control sleeve to seize.

Did you dismantle only the top part of the pump?

I removed only the cylinder head, to replace leaking seal.

you mean the top cover?

As long as it gets tight when you turn, then it does the same about 90 degrees, its fine. Have a look at my other vid explaining the inner parts of the VE.

@@webslinger2011 thank you

Is there power going in the stop solenoid when you crank the engine?

Check for restrictions on the fuel line. Fuel filters. Accelerator cable.

It's supposed to deliver more fuel during start. Seems plunger may be worn.

@@webslinger2011 Thanks for your reply. I take it, this needs a new pump - is it normal that these available as reconditioned units?

@@GraemeSPa Yes, reconditioned pumps usually have internal parts that been replaced to bring it back to specifications.

@@webslinger2011 thanks

Andrew Eckford check accelerator cable. Might be stretched. Opening the pump must be the last option. Also, a sticky control sleeve on the plunger might be a cause as well.

Thanks for getting back. Not the cable, the quadrant goes to the stop with no effect. It has to be something Inside. Giving it a go tomorrow and will let you know.

Well, had the top off in situe and could see no obvious probs like broken springs or other parts. So put it back together and will look for a s/h pump, as the local 'specialists' are arm & leg prices. Changing it envolves pulling the front off the car, so trying a look was worth it. It happened quite suddenly and is consistent, so a sticking sleave does not sound likely.

To add, it has a switch on the quadrant that turns on (or off?) after the first bit of movement and three wires to the plastic cover that is over the stop solenoid. Any chance that these can influence things? I would have thought not, but..

That might be an anti theft device over the solenoid. Nope it won't cause that problem. I would check if there's enough pressure building inside the pump.

It uses and electronic governor. Adjustment is by a "hair's thread". It would be bad if you get it wrong.

I asked Igor? about the mg/str setting for a 2.7 L as his video is a 1.9 engine. Adjustment using vag.com through OBDII port says the setting is between 3 and 4 i am a where of the the hammer adjustment and have seen a Russian use a altimeter / resistance for this adjustment I was hoping Igor would know. I will not be giving a diesel mechanic my pump to rip me off on a seal kit repair as my pump runs fine apart from a top seal leak

Geoffrey Barton for an edc or covec pump not only requires a controller but the pump's calibration data. The insides is different from the ordinary mechanical pump. Besides, a leaking top cover means the seals are already brittle.

We put a special fitting at the outlet side on the top cover of the pump and connect a pressure gauge in between the pump and the overflow bolt to measure pressure on VE pumps.

Light grease will work. As long as it dissolves in diesel.

Delivery Valve holders?

Watch my other video explaining the ve pump

For VE pumps, a worn drive shaft or seal is one.

You'd have to remove and dismantle the pump again. Driveshaft keyway must align on the cam plate's knock pin. Otherwise, it won't start.

If it’s a belt driven pump, then the belt was too tight, causing the drive shaft to rub hard on one side of bushing.very common. Needs a new bushing. Can only be done by a specialist.on gear driven pumps, we never saw this problem.

Sorry can't understand well. Using google translate.

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Kenny Mercedes .

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Geoffrey Barton Short answer: 1.9L is totally different from a 2.7. It requires more fuel. As you have mentioned, an engine overrun might damage your engine. Setting too little and you won't be able to start. I guess you know how to work things out. As always I will not liable for anything.

I've have always used a bench controller on a covec pump to set and not on the engine.

Weblinger is this your name what do i call you? Thanks for the reply . I understand your concerns and appreciate your input and don't hold any one responsible for my actions. Unfortunately i am in the middle of Australia and getting the Nissan Terrano II 1998 to a diesel mechanic is not a option . So i am left with a bush fix and my mechanical ability to sort this out. Luckily their are videos online to only guide me through the process. VAGCOMS would be great if this model had a OBDII port but it doesn't so i have to take a chance when setting it and as you have said too little would give low power and too much would increase smoke. I was only hoping that an old diesel mechanic would know another way to gauge this quantity meter. Are you in Australia?..... I have ordered a running second hand Pump, if all fails. I would be happy to have you recondition my old one if you are in Australia?...... Until then your knowledge and input is always welcome . At this stage the seals are in and the car but it will not start. Is low cracking a factor or just the quantity meter set to low or a combination of the two ..... I am forced to buy a new starter motor as i have ruled out the battery being the issue . I have cracked open the injectors to bleed them and no signs of fuel is ejected. In all the videos i have seen bleeding the injectors is not necessary when replacing top seals only is this true or false?...... Once again your input is valued and appreciated as a guide only.

Also in the case of over run at start this would be done with hands on the ignition key ready to stop before a over run could happen

Sorry, but I've left Oz. Mechanical pumps deliver excess fuel for starting. Same applies on covec pumps such as yours. Cranking speed to about 200rpm on the engine. You can move the governor a tiny bit closer to the rotor head for more fuel. Not necessary to bleed the injectors unless you've loosened up the lines. Have you heard of MTQ engine systems? They have a few branches around Australia or you could find Gary or ibby at Hi-tech Diesel in Adelaide.